UKC

165m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular and hard outing that breaches the roofs on the upper right-hand side of the cliff by some wild climbing. Start at the base of the gully that defines the right-hand side of the cliff.
1) N4+, 45m. Climb the clean white slabs left of the streaks into a corner and continue to a niche with a high peg belay.
2) N3, 40m. Continue up the gully for 10m until a grassy ramp runs out to the left onto the crest of the buttress. Follow this up and down to a belay on spikes.
3) N6-, 30m. Climb a series of flakes and cracks, with harder moves where it steepens, to reach a small stance and nut belays.
4) N8-, 30m. Now the fun begins! Climb up to the roof and bridge past its narrowest point. Follow an undercut flake out left, passing a couple of grooves, to a point below the crack that splits the roof. Difficult moves up to the roof lead to a good hold out left, then hard pulls on thin flakes are needed to gain a belay in a crack above the overhang.
5) N8+, 20m. Climb as far as a small side-pull, then continue up the desperate crack to a groove and head up this to reach bolt belays in the roof above the ledge.
5a) N7-/A2, 20m. Start free as far as a small side-pull then, when the crack becomes too thin, aid up it to a groove and climb this to reach bolt belays in the roof above the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 5 alternative description
5) 7- A2, 20m. Start free as far as a small side-pull then, when the crack becomes too thin, aid up it to a groove and climb this to reach bolt belays in the roof above the ledge. Walk off left.

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Guidebooks for Gandalf

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Voting
High n9-
Mid n9-
Low n9-
High n8+
Mid n8+
Low n8+
High n8/8+
Mid n8/8+
Low n8/8+
Route of Interest
Grisfesten

Grade: n8+ ***
(Gandalf)

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