UKC

115m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A free version of the aid route Set Trippin' (A3) extended to the top by some spectacular hard climbing through the line of roofs that cap the wall. The first ascent team weren't sure about the grades of the first two pitches.
1) N5+, 40m. Climb grassy cracks and overlaps right and back left to a tree-filled groove. Climb right past a roof to a ledge.
2) N5+, 35m. Step left, climb a curving groove, then trend right up cracks past the left edge of a wide roof. Continue up an easy grassy groove to a stance on the left end of the ledge system.
3) N7, 40m. Step left past blocks and climb a thin crack to a short bolt ladder and on up the 'copperhead groove'. Continue to a grassy niche, step left and climb cracks and a right-trending ramp to a bolt belay below the overhangs.
4) N8+, 20m. Climb past a big block and out over the roof via the triangular flake. There is a bolt at the lip of the roof to protect the desperate mantle above. There is a good stance just above, or continue - as on the first ascent.
5) N8+, 60m. Traverse left and go up a groove to slopers, then continue left to climb a crack up the right-hand side of 'the fridge' flake to reach a niche. Pass the roof and finish up the slab above to a tree belay. © Rockfax

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Guidebooks for Gandalf

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High n9-
Mid n9-
Low n9-
High n8+
Mid n8+
Low n8+
High n8/8+
Mid n8/8+
Low n8/8+
Route of Interest
Tundra

Grade: n8+ ***
(Stormolla)

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