UKC

One of Lundy's classic HVSs and a route of great variety. Ascend the cornered ramp on the RHS of the buttress delicately, past a small overlap. Swing R at the main roof to enter the continuation crack, a monster layback flack and a short finishing corner.
The final flake and overhang below have now fallen down. Remaining loose rock has so far prevented an ascent of the new line.

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
sparkass 23/Sep -

Bottom half Formula One, top half Indy 500 due to the former top having fallen down and the latter bottom being a river - very good!

with Tom Wallace, skelf
Oscar Popels 10/Sep 2nd

I thought this felt quite tricky for HVS. We finished up Indy.

with aiyer
aiyer 10/Sep Lead O/S

Finished up Indy - best line of the trip. Bit tricky in places...

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 04/Sep AltLd O/S

We didn't realise the top of this had fallen down. Deacon led the bottom and I finished up Indy 500.

alex goodall 04/Jun 2nd RP

Seconded after failed at the crux in the groove. Finished up Indy 500, nice finish. Glad i wasn't on lead anymore. Great route

with Gordon W, Ollie Ross
Gordon W 04/Jun 2nd O/S

Ollie bailed onto the Indy 500 finish after discovering the rockfall on the upper section

OliverRoss 02/Jun Lead

Did the Indy 500 finish due to rockfall. Preplaced gear for first half

Lizard Ollie 03/May 2nd

With the Indy 500 finish. Had to take some rests for stuck gear and for being crap but both were on the Indy section

with James Thompson
Dan Vaj 25/Mar 2nd

Big rockfall makes top pitch very blank.... stepped right into Indy...

with James McHaffie
evhall 31/Aug/17 Lead O/S

with indie 500 finish - best bit of 2 routes

with Tom R
Pippa 30/Aug/17 2nd β
with RB1, afrosam
Hidden 30/Aug/17 2nd O/S
afrosam 30/Aug/17 Lead β

Formula 500 variant

with Pippa, RB1
gjd 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S

did as Formula 500 finishing up indy 500

with Pete Sterling
Tom.Priestley 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Didn't know it'd fallen down and tried to go straight up. Loose choss and no gear scared me back down and I traversed off right to indy 500.

Ali D 16/Aug/17 Lead

Didnt know the flake had fallen down. Traversed right into indy 500 which was brilliant.

with mum
AnneMarie 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Barrie actually did the Indy 500, E1 finish on this as the Formula one finish had fallen down

Barrie Schofield II 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Finished up final part of indy 500.

paul79 30/Aug/16 2nd O/S

dirty and unpleasant at top, stepped left into Indy 500, and climbed top of this (crux of Indy 500 E1 5b)

Robb Bert 30/Aug/16 2nd
with Steve George
Hidden ?/Aug/16 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/15 2nd β
Bloke on a Rope 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Left hand finish

barrowclough 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Bullybones 21/Jun/14 Lead

Rockfall scar stopped progress, bah! Very dirty and no apparent gear where the block had been - should have mugged up! Lowered off.

with Neil
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 09/Aug/13 2nd
darren hudson 25/Jul/13 AltLd dog

1st part of the pitch but it appears the flake at the top has collapsed forcing me to traverse onto Indy 500. Belayed as ran out of gear and David finished the route. Small nuts/alpine nuts/offsets useful.Sadly this is now not a totally independant route and ends in a 5b finish as where the flake came down is now very crumbly.

with David Ford
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
jordan graham 28/Sep/12 -
rd20 10/Sep/12 2nd dnf

Dan wanted to examine potential after rock fall. Finished up Indy 500 as top of route looks loose and no possibility of protection.

with Dan G
Hidden ?/Aug/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
mc fifi 12/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Ed Hastrop
Stroppy 10/Jun/12 Lead

The large flake at the top has gone!!! Had to escape onto Indy 500 :s AVOID unless you are prepared to find an alternative finish

cymjt ??/2012 -
Jim Slater 17/Sep/11 2nd rpt
John Brayshaw 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with erica
erica 15/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/11 2nd
Andy Clarke 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Climbed in intermittent drizzle. Unnerving but memorable.

with Tim
nickstephens 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S

supurb route glad it wasn't wet, not good wether holiday

with mike
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
matthomas79 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S

What a fantastic climb. One to go back and lead myself. Excellent moves all the way and loads of gear to protect them.

with Tala Murdock
Tala A 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route! Used an entire rack of gear and it was all fairly bomber. One of the best protected routes I've done and used such an array of gear on

Kevster 28/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Aug/11 2nd
evhall 26/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Fletch
pebbles 25/Aug/11 Lead β

after watching graham lead and rachel second, rachel lowered down after seconding so i could also lead.

Rachel S 25/Aug/11 2nd
lithos 23/Aug/11 Lead

quality climbing with good gear and quite technical at the overlap, keeps giving until the end !

kdalzell 21/Aug/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 20/Aug/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Tom Lambert
spondulix 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with LG
givemetea 08/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Craig Jenkins
Chris Sansum 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Gary Lewin
thrutch 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with helen
timtimpeggy ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Graham Booth ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/11 Lead
with Gavin Moy
julesmckim 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic positions - especially moving around the overhang near the top onto the ramp/crack

with GeoMike
Hidden 16/Sep/10 2nd
victim of mathematics 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Maximally ace.

with Pagan
Bex_M 15/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead dog
Bob M 12/Sep/10 Lead

Superb, but less sustained than expected, with only one hard section.

with riggy
Dave Musgrove 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Shaw
Hidden 08/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
benkelsey 06/Sep/10 Lead O/S

felt fairly insecure as it was very greasy more like 5b moves good gear and impressive laybacking to the top

with remus
Hidden 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S
daveyji ?/Sep/10 2nd
with Richard, Simon Hoskings
Kevster ?/Sep/10 2nd
steve2006 ?/Sep/10 Lead
Luuuuuke 28/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with lundy mike
Homes 27/Aug/10 Lead
solenostomus 27/Aug/10 2nd
with Homes
Helen Gibson 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
3 Names 08/Aug/10 2nd
willworkforfoodjnr 28/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Downclimbed from the crux the day before, came back and did it today. Dan gave me beta for the crux but I ended up doing it totally differently anyway!

Hidden 28/Jul/10 2nd O/S
elephant0907 27/Jul/10 2nd dog

Not really my style of climbing. Sat on the rope - a lot. Nice route though

Dan Lane 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

best route i have ever done, justr brilliant.

Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Rob84 31/May/10 2nd O/S
irish paul 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Ripley
Jess Christley 31/May/10 2nd
with Sarah Joyce
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 2nd
Jessie Rushbrooke 28/Sep/09 2nd
with GF
Hidden 24/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/09 Lead O/S
fchris 21/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Great first HVS

dicky79 17/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Sloane, Mark Nicholson
Joris.Roulleau 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Miller
Andrew Sloan 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
csalvage 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Bryan
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
mick1jones 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Rich A-Wilkes 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 05/Sep/09 -
with Bry
Jim Slater 05/Sep/09 2nd rpt

Clean ascent.

Katya 02/Sep/09 2nd
with ChrisC
Tom Last 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Great pitch. Sustained rather than cruxy. Very similar to Great North Road only longer, if a little easier. Contender for best HVS in UK?

crobinson 11/Aug/09 2nd

Fantastic, 3 stars!!!!must go back and lead one day.

Hidden 07/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/09 Lead
Spillers ?/Aug/09 2nd
with Stavvy
Mike W ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
gazlad ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S

An amazing climb one of my favourites.

with wetton
gripped01 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Stew Boyce
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Jillybean 08/Jul/09 2nd
with Tom Dixion and Steve Franklin
Hidden 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
lukea 30/Jun/09 Lead
with Al
Ed Booth 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Anna seconded clean. Nice

Hidden 25/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 21/Jun/09 Lead

Best route I've ever done?

with Kerry Alison
greedo ??/2009 2nd
with Martin hoare
blahblahblah 22/Sep/08 2nd rpt

brilliant climb

with Keith Ridgeway
Jim Slater 16/Sep/08 Lead dog

Dropped back on to gear at crux. Great varied climbing.

with Dave Payne
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

One of the best climbs I've done. E1?

hash 13/Sep/08 Lead dog

1 rest

with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 13/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with hash
jamie ward 12/Sep/08 2nd
with Chris Comrie
Jim Walton ?/Sep/08 Lead β
with Mike Owen
AJ007 30/Aug/08 Lead
dan gibson 30/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with AJ
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S
James B 30/Aug/08 Lead dog
zero six ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
pete johnson ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lun
nickdonohue ?/Jul/08 2nd
with Andy Neath
Shaw Brown 08/May/08 Lead
with simon blythe
Coel Hellier 03/May/08 Lead
with Richard
Hidden 16/Mar/08 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
John Kettle ??/2008 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
cmawson 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Great route, one of the best HVS's I've done! Interesting climbing all the way up. Loads of gear and good rests where you need it. Crux is not where you think it would be, but well protected. Something for all climbers. Face / crack climbing, bridging and laybacks, a must for all HVS climbers. Enjoy!

with Guido
blahblahblah 15/Sep/07 Lead dog

Rested once on gear before small roof which turned out a bit of a mistake

Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Guy ?/Sep/07 AltLd
with C Mawson
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
jak.kelly 28/Aug/07 2nd rpt
with Gareth Jones, Dave Lacey
Ed Babs 13/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Kate
Chad123 07/Aug/07 2nd

Fine, varied route.

with Jo
Jayney D 05/Aug/07 2nd
with Jo Smith, Jolene Sirrel and Chris Astel
Hidden 28/May/07 AltLd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 12/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Ben1983 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/06 2nd rpt
lost.arrow 03/Sep/06 AltLd
with Richard Ball
HughM ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with notgnarly
Chris the Tall 23/Aug/06 Lead β

Led with gear placed by Nick - loads for most of the route, but a bit more spaced on the final cracks. And of course this is where it started to rain

with Nick & Kate
Katex 23/Aug/06 2nd
with Chris Moor, Nick Smith
Hidden 23/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Marq 21/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Ruth Creamer
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
Duncan Hardy 03/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Smith
feilx ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Neil Ireson 20/Sep/05 Lead
with John & Jane
blahblahblah 13/Sep/05 Lead dnf

backed off on the overhang

with Tim de Vere Green
Bella 12/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Lucy
givemetea 01/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Bob
Dave Reeve ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden 21/Aug/05 Lead
Geoffers ?/Aug/05 2nd
with Jeff, Bean, Simon, Tim
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
Tom Briggs ??/2005 -
Okecroak 14/Sep/04 Lead
with I Butler
ferdia 07/Sep/04 2nd
with ccliff
Owen W-G 07/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Craven MC
AJM ?/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Alan Dickinson
timreynolds 26/Aug/04 Lead
with John
cem 13/Aug/04 2nd rpt
with Dave Amos
leadmat ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Dr James Armstrong
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden 18/Sep/03 AltLd
Hidden 12/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Okecroak 16/Aug/03 Lead
Chris Ebbutt 16/Aug/03 2nd
five ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden 10/Sep/02 Lead
cem 07/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with GrahamD
Hidden ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
lundyman 27/Jun/02 Lead O/S

A fantastic climb - my favorite on this trip. Excellent belay positions at top & bottom. Sustained gritstone-like jamming, bridging & layback. 'High in grade'. Up crack to ledge at foot of brown groove in Arete. Climb it past a small overlap (SP thought crux & took hang rest) up to bigger roof. Move R around onto slanting crack, then finish up flake (tired SC found hard - foot slipped) and short corner.

with Simon Pelly
Roget 05/Aug/01 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
timmy-ts ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2000 AltLd
with Spuz
Lepista 10/Sep/99 Lead O/S

With Ben Rodgers

WB ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
Derek Furze ?/Aug/99 -
Just Another Dave ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 02/Sep/98 Lead O/S
DafSWMC ?/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with ICMC
Paul-Michael 05/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Nick Hanie
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/98 Lead
Jon Read ?/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Jules
VPJB ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
rurp ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/97 Lead
pauldrew ?/Sep/97 Lead
steveb2006 20/Aug/97 2nd
with Simon Mee
Martin Bennett 16/Aug/97 -
with Jerry Evans
Pete Nugent 09/Aug/97 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
colin milton 01/Sep/96 Lead dog
with eric milton
snowcat 27/Aug/96 2nd
with Chris Schiller
lost.arrow 25/Aug/96 -
with Iain Kerr
Pete Nugent 18/Aug/96 Lead rpt
with Fiona Stoddart, Pete Cosgrove
Iain Thow 09/Aug/96 Lead
with Mel Dyce
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/96 2nd

I lost the toss for the lead - or perhaps I offered it having seen a big squall heading straight for us. Any road up, I ended up trying to second the route in a deluge of Noah-like proportions. There was about half an inch of water running down the crux, which I had almost done when I slipped off. Such was the stretch of the rope that I finished up below the crux sequence again.... I'm sure it's a great route though.

with Shad Makin
Simon cook ?/Aug/96 -
Scott McRae ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Darren Lambert
orangesmartie61 04/Sep/95 Lead
with Diana Smart
GuyC 22/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Pete Murphy (MMC)
Hidden 18/Aug/95 Lead
Budge ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Adrian Fox
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
mikej 02/Sep/94 Lead
with Mike Byles
Martin Bennett 04/Sep/93 -
with Andy Robinson
RichardMc ?/Sep/92 AltLd
with John Evans
mattnuttall ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Jacko
Hidden ?/Aug/92 -
Hidden 01/Sep/91 2nd β
garywalker147 ?/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
with Mob
Hidden 27/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/91 Lead O/S
eroica64 ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S

Terrific HVS.

with Denis Crampton
Stoney Boy 16/Aug/90 2nd O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 16/Aug/90 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/89 Lead
with Alan Payne
BigHairyIan 26/Mar/89 2nd O/S
with Alan Lilley (Thug)
Hidden 19/Sep/88 2nd
Mike Owen 06/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
andy gittins ??/1988 -
rogerskews 25/Sep/87 Lead O/S

Superb route with bags of variety and sustained interest !

with Martin Coward
Adrian Daniels 01/Aug/87 2nd
Steve Webster 01/Aug/87 Lead
steve taylor ??/1987 Lead
with mike chase
wynaptomos ?/Aug/86 2nd O/S
Tom V ?/Aug/86 -
RichardMc 04/Sep/83 2nd
with John Evans
Pete Nugent ?/Aug/83 Lead
with Mick Rugg
Pete Wimbush 21/Aug/81 -
with Nick Green
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Ian Jones ?/Sep/79 Lead O/S
with Mike Wright
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 45
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set