UKC

80m, 4 pitches. This is a classic climb. Once at the bottom of the climb there is an old piton about 3metres up in the rock to the left, either use this or solo up to the first real belay point 10m above. easy placements here and a good view of practically the whole climb. The crack/chimney above this is narrow but deep often going back 4m or more. There are good ledges and foot placements for most of the climb and an abundance of welded gear remains in the wall. Guides mostly split the rest of the climb into 3 pitches but the next 2 pitches are easily combined as one. All the belay points are perfect with wide ledges or chock stones in the crack. The last belay has two ledges 3 metres apart, since the crack veers of here this is a possible abseil point back to the bottom of the y gully

R.B.FRERE, K.A.ROBERTSON 1939.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , The Baron's Bucket List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , RGU challange list , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge , RGU Shelterstone , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , The boys climb da rocks. , Lairig hitlist , Scotland wishlist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , The Classic, Easy Scottish Mountain Routes , Matt's Bucketlist , Diffs To Deck Off , Greg's rock bucket list , An Ambitious Gumclub Ticklist , STAUMC Ticklist , PTRICKY's Inspo (Summer) , Hayley and Sam Trad Hitlist up to HS , Gorse Whisperers' Trad Quest , Scotland , UK road to wide crack mastery

Feedback

User Date Notes
Filly Fillingham 7 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Lots of protection and comfortable belays. Drier than expected given recent passing showers. Lost x2 alpine sender ropes to the abseil. Intended to go back to retrieve as it was quite late and needed to head off, but a friend confirmed they’d gone the next morning. Hoping they’ll find their way back to me. Until then I’ll be banging out a million burpees as my punishment.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Lots of protection and comfortable belays. Drier than expected given recent passing showers. Lost x2 alpine sender ropes to the abseil. Intended to go back to retrieve as it was quite late and needed to head off, but a friend confirmed they’d gone the next morning. Hoping they’ll find their way back to me. Until then I’ll be banging out a million burpees as my punishment.
Badgerbadger 13 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The block which was previously laid back, loose and wobbly at the first block stance seems to have moved into a more stable position, and it's no longer wobbly, but now a great seat and more room for ropes!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block which was previously laid back, loose and wobbly at the first block stance seems to have moved into a more stable position, and it's no longer wobbly, but now a great seat and more room for ropes!
ali_ellen_b 28 May Show βeta
βeta: The abseil tat seems secure in the higher chokestone further away, but the lower chokestone can be kicked out of place
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The abseil tat seems secure in the higher chokestone further away, but the lower chokestone can be kicked out of place
DannyLamby 26 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Little bit of snow remaining on the approach and crack was quite damp. The white tatt at the top could do with being replaced
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Little bit of snow remaining on the approach and crack was quite damp. The white tatt at the top could do with being replaced
Sasha Kritsuk 26 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Super cold, a bit wet, but very rewarding. Amazing first trad multi in Scotland and a great rappel down!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super cold, a bit wet, but very rewarding. Amazing first trad multi in Scotland and a great rappel down!
Jennifnfe 16 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Midpoint belay - block is dangerously loose, identified by a cut piece of tat. Use runners to the left
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Midpoint belay - block is dangerously loose, identified by a cut piece of tat. Use runners to the left
Mark123 15 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Done in 2 pitches. Enjoyable descent down Fiacaill Buttress and ridge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Done in 2 pitches. Enjoyable descent down Fiacaill Buttress and ridge
Michael Haywood 3 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable route, although very chilly on the day. As a word of warning to future climbers, we had fairly major issues with getting the ropes stuck on the abseil. We abseiled down the face of Prore and ensured the knots were over the edge. We couldn't pull them through. There might have been a twist and luckily other climbers were at the top to sort it our for us. Then we did Fallout Corner and the same thing happened on the abseil, this time we ensured there was no twist. Again other climbers pulled them through at the top for us. Then the next party down the abseil also got their ropes stuck too. There seems to be too much friction on the rock between the anchor and the edge to pull the ropes through. We tried going uphill etc. to change the angle but made no difference. Not sure what to suggest, best of luck!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoyable route, although very chilly on the day. As a word of warning to future climbers, we had fairly major issues with getting the ropes stuck on the abseil. We abseiled down the face of Prore and ensured the knots were over the edge. We couldn't pull them through. There might have been a twist and luckily other climbers were at the top to sort it our for us. Then we did Fallout Corner and the same thing happened on the abseil, this time we ensured there was no twist. Again other climbers pulled them through at the top for us. Then the next party down the abseil also got their ropes stuck too. There seems to be too much friction on the rock between the anchor and the edge to pull the ropes through. We tried going uphill etc. to change the angle but made no difference. Not sure what to suggest, best of luck!!
DHollands 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like tat at halfway belay is cut? Top abseil tat in good condition
Show beta
βeta: Looks like tat at halfway belay is cut? Top abseil tat in good condition
Lewis Callum Black 23 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Block midway up is very loose. It looks sound from below, I only noticed how loose it was once I stood on it! Climbed with Kev, we got caught up in some pretty bad weather and decided to bail off after the second pitch. Left a locker and a 240 up there for the taking!
Show beta
βeta: Block midway up is very loose. It looks sound from below, I only noticed how loose it was once I stood on it! Climbed with Kev, we got caught up in some pretty bad weather and decided to bail off after the second pitch. Left a locker and a 240 up there for the taking!
Random Tyke 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: My first lead in Scotland (1972, age 16) - pretty sure it was only rated VD in those days.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first lead in Scotland (1972, age 16) - pretty sure it was only rated VD in those days.
CameronDuff14 13 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil tat in situ at halfway belay and top of route, in ok condition May 2023
LoganDuguid 27 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose block on main pitch inside the chimney.
sparkybatteryboy 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome sustained climbing loads of protection

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