Rockfax Description
A high-quality climb on very good rock, with a lot of fixed protection. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.
From the left-hand side of the ledge, climb boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs. Move up to a peg in the wall above and traverse left to a small corner which leads to a hole, thread, peg and good nut. Move up to the overhang above, peg, and make a difficult move to get established above it, peg. Climb the weakness above to the shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station. © Rockfax

R Harrison (A C Willmott, D J Hermalin with 2 pts aid 10/Jun/1972) 07/Jan/1978

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Si 07/Oct/17 2nd

Foot popped right at the top. Steady lead from Rob; crux at the end

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 07/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Cracking route, very Avon. Lots of places to rest, until you reach the top, where it gets pumpy pretty quickly.

kenneM 19/Aug/17 2nd dog

Still absolutely nails and a long way off leading this clean.

kenneM 18/May/17 2nd dog
with Chris
steve_gibbs 27/Jul/16 2nd dog
Nick Russell 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A bit cheeky to log as an onsight having done main wall eliminate 3 days ago. This section of the gorge is great!

Cheese Monkey 17/Sep/15 2nd dog

Fell at the start of the crux. Hard, pumpy and very good!

with Alex W
Alex Winter 17/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Mint. Pretty sustained through the bolted section. Spent ages arsing about at the crux -- was repeatedly led astray by the chalk into duff sequences.

with Ben Darby
_m.cox_ 27/May/15 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, a little bold up to the first peg but well protected thereafter. Extremely wobbly peg just right of the lower off was entertaining.

climbomaniac 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Fun! the bomber thread gives confidence for a hard move over the bulge, and two bolts protect some hard moves on smeary feet afterwards. While this takes some of the adventure away, it would prob be very difficult to protect otherwise. Admittedly clipped them quite thankfully at that moment. =)

John Tanner 02/May/15 2nd β
Bristoldave 02/May/15 Lead O/S
with john
Ed Babs 26/Oct/14 Lead β

With Iain's gear and beta.

just one more 01/Oct/14 Lead β

Great route,plenty of gear,felt easier than Pink Wall,didn't feel hard for E4

LucasHarazin 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Avon Man 10/Nov/13 2nd dnf

Not the best choice for my second route after three years off climbing.

with msoldn
msoldn 10/Nov/13 Lead dog

All a bit damp after a week of rain, so crux through bolts felt very hard, despite having done it clean a few years back when seconding MWE. Very good, technical climbing throughout, stunning route!

with Mark
Kemics 18/Nov/12 2nd dog

Got spanked by the bolted section. Felt really hard for 6a.

dan ely 18/Nov/12 Lead dog

like a hard sport climb on head wall. Getting the draws in is hard enough let alone onsighting it. f7a+ by bolts?

with Kemics
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd dog
Billg 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S

great route, slightly easier than MWE, but there is a big detatched flake you layback round which is a bit scary

BeccaSnowden 23/May/12 2nd dog

Took a few attempts to figure out a way to do the crux

with Tom
thomasadixon 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Proper sustained climbing through the second crux, cool roof below - just a great climb. Chuffed to get it clean.

with Becca
colesy 01/Feb/12 Lead dog

Went sliightly off route at the second bolt and fell. Amazing route.

pezzerrr 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Chubbard 17/Jul/10 2nd dog

Still nails 2nd time round. Worked crux out eventually. F7a?

with Ray
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead dog
alasdair19 ??/2010 -

mis read lower section on tr 2 rest all moves done

JimR 18/Oct/09 -
Chubbard 18/Oct/09 Lead dog

Fantastic! Dogged the bolted bit.

just one more 04/Jun/09 Lead dog
with tim b
Ricky Rocks 04/May/09 Lead O/S
Paz 05/Apr/07 Lead dog

Clean up to both of the bolts which I sat on. Bit pissed off I blew it.

with GC
Kev Little ??/2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 2nd dog
Hidden 29/Jun/04 Lead O/S
KRB 19/Oct/02 Lead β

Another good climb on this fine section of rock

with unseconded
Hidden 06/Jun/99 Lead rpt
Roget 14/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Oct/94 Lead O/S
pete johnson ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
stp 19/Aug/83 Lead O/S
duncan ??/1983 Lead β
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Andy Dunhill
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High 6b
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Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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