Climbs 245
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces W

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All or nothing! Rory following the crux of Pink Wall Traverse, Avon Gorge © Chris Sansum

Crag features

Quarried limestone, generally sound. Protection often poor. Plenty of multi-starred classics if you've got the bottle. Multi-pitch routes to 80m.

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Whoever has recently put the action man on the Aid line over the overhang is a complete lad.
Stanners - 30/Mar/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Shale Walls
2 Crooked Deal
-
E4 5c  
3 Still Warthogs after all These Years
-
E2 5c  
4 Hermann Buhlshit
-
E3 6a  
5 More Buhl than Bull
-
E3 6a  
6 Carefree Life of Casual Sex
-
E3 6a  
7 House of Cards
-
E1 5a 1
8 Nice Girls Don't Explode
-
E2 5c 4
9 Ace High
-
E1 5a  
10 Play Your Cards Right
-
E2 5b  
11 Suicide Machine
-
E2 5c  
12 Good Samaritan
-
E1 5c  
13 Break Left E2  
  Main Wall Left
15 Venereal
-
HS  
16 A Room Full of Mirrors
-
HVS 5a 17
17 Choker E1 5a ** 178
18 Deep Sleep
-
E4 6a * 6
19 The Last Gasp E2 5c * 88
20 Dire Straits
-
E4 6a * 20
21 Mid-life Meltdown
-
E5 6a 1
22 The Corpse HVS 5a ** 294
23 Peace: at Any Price
-
E3 6a 1
24 Zombogies E1 5b ** 117
25 The Poacher
-
E3 5c 5
26 Poacher Direct
-
E4 6a/b 1
27 Maladroit
-
E1 5b 29
28 The Lich HVS 5a ** 306
29 The Mal E3 5c ** 42
30 The Writing on the Wall E3 5c 10
31 Malediction E4 6b 1
32 Malambo E2 5c * 40
33 Caprice
-
E3 5c * 14
34 Bon Bogies HVS 5a ** 188
35 Not a New Year's Honour
-
E4 6a 2
36 The Bogyman
-
E2 5c ** 54
37 Maltravers Left
-
E2 5c 22
38 Old Pretenders
-
E2 5c * 38
39 Troillus Left-Hand
-
E4 5c ** 16
40 Mini-mal
-
E4 6a  
41 Troillus Direct
-
E3 5c * 17
42 Troillus HVS 5b ** 12
43 The Beard of Ffoeg Nosam E2 5b * 25
44 The Beard
-
E4 5c * 2
45 Maladjusted
-
E2 5b  
46 Maltravers E1 5a ** 95
47 Maltravers Right
-
E3 5c  
48 Link Pink 7b+ 3
49 Mason's Folly E4 6a 1
  Main Wall Central
51 The Shockin' Pink E6 6c * 1
52 Malpractice E1 5a 42
53 Pink Ginsane E6 6b *** 10
54 Pink Insane E6 6c ***  
55 Think Pink E3 6a *** 118
56 A Profusion of Pink E6 6b * 3
57 Reunion
-
E5 5c 1
58 Krapp's Last Tape E3 5b *** 121
59 Little Fluffy Clouds
-
E5 5c 1
60 Baconconstrictor
-
E5 6a 4
61 Main Wall Eliminate E4 6a ** 49
62 White Not Pink
-
E3 6a 1
63 Pilot Error
-
E3 5b 1
64 Central Wall E4 6a *** 49
65 Atmosfears E5 6a *** 6
66 Caught under Cloud Nine E6 6b *  
67 Malwhatsit E1 5a ** 36
68 Malbogies HVS 5a *** 634
69 Malicious E2 5b 1
70 The Thin Air E5 6a 3
71 The Murky Way E2 5a * 3
72 The Preter E2 5b *** 104
73 Hefalump Trap meets Suck It and See E4 6a 5
74 Dyson with Death
-
E3 5c  
75 The Electric Orgasm E3 5c * 12
76 Malteaser E4 6a  
77 Malfunction E3 5b  
78 Malady E3 5c 3
79 Macavity E2 5b * 23
80 Depravity E1 5b * 76
81 Fillcavity
-
E3 5b 1
82 Malkrappity E3 5c 1
83 Coup d'Etat E6 6b * 4
84 Comedy of Errors
-
E5 5c * 2
85 Steppenwolf E3 5c ** 51
86 Born to Be Riled
-
E4 6b  
87 Kampf E4 6a 5
Climb name Grade
88 Kampf Direct
-
E5 6a  
89 Magic Theatre
-
E5 6a ** 13
90 Shutup and Dance
-
E6 6a  
91 Kranz E2 5c * 20
92 Space Invader
-
E4 5c  
93 Space Invader Direct
-
E5 6a/b  
94 Uncut
-
E6 6c  
95 Bristol Unillustrated E6 6b * 1
96 Showbiz
-
E6 6c  
  Main Wall Right
98 The Evening Light E3 5b 15
99 Bees' Nest
-
HVS 5a  
100 XON XOFF
-
E3 6c  
101 Goth
-
E2 5b * 10
102 Polar Reaches E6 6c **  
103 Timespan E6 6b  
104 Breakfast Ledge Access Route
-
HS 4b 1
105 Lich Gates E2 5c *** 144
106 Lich Gates Direct Finish
-
E3 5c 2
107 Peryl E4 6a *** 63
108 The White Elephant E4 5c * 6
109 Changeling E5 6b *** 8
110 Oceans of Taboo E4 5c 1
111 Pink Wall Direct E2 5c ** 77
112 Pink Wall Indirect
-
E3 5c *** 6
113 Pink Wall Direct Finish
-
E3 5c  
114 Sturm E5 6a  
115 Drang E3 5b * 14
116 Dyno Sores E4 6a 1
117 Velociraptor
-
E4 6a  
118 Dead Dog Soup
-
E3 6a 1
  Traverses
120 The Equator
-
E2 5b ** 22
121 Crossing the Dateline
-
E3 6a *  
122 Pink Wall Traverse HVS 5a ** 147
123 The Pedantic Pituitary Gland
-
HVS 5a  
124 Grumphuttock's Lament
-
E3 5c 1
125 Cumming round the Mountain
-
E3 5c  
126 Side Affects
-
E5 6a *  
127 The Blue Horizon
-
E2 5b * 1
128 Malarkey
-
E2 5c  
129 Mud Slide Slim
-
E1 5b 2
130 Wombling Free
-
E2 5c  
131 Quality Street E3 6a *  
132 The Old Girdle
-
E2 5b  
133 Bog Wall Traverse none 5c 38
134 Bog Wall Backside Traverse f5+ 5c 11
135 Dynosaur V4 6
  Morning Slab
137 Dawn Walk S 4a * 306
138 Corner HVS 4c * 110
139 All Day Breakfast
-
E1 5b  
140 Mason's Plank Walk A2 3
141 Turn of the Screw
-
A3 11
142 Eyes Wide Open
-
E4 6a  
143 Reveille HVS 4c * 228
144 Tiptoe Fingers HVS 5a 9
145 Priceless E2 6a 1
146 Rude Awakening E2 5b * 25
147 Morty's Error E2 5b 43
148 Lime in de Coconut E3 5b 2
149 Mike's Mistake E1 5b ** 244
150 Mark's Morality E3 5b 9
151 Last Trump E1 5b * 56
152 Last Post VS 4c 36
153 First Class Post E1 5a  
154 Clarion VS 4c ** 766
155 Thorne Concerto
-
E3 5c  
156 Sinister HS 4b ** 852
157 Mahout E2 5c  
158 Good Morning You HS 4b 2
159 Dexter Variation - Poindexter HVS 4c * 7
160 Dexter HS 4b * 616
161 Dark Motive HVS 5a 9
162 Mediator E1 5b 58
163 The Arête VD 4a ** 1166
  Traverses
165 Gurgle Girdle
-
VS 4c 25
166 Lost in Space
-
E2 5b 2
167 Lie-in Late and Let the World Go By
-
VS 4b  
  Evening Wall
169 Consolation
-
VD 26
170 Ledge and Groove
-
D 18
171 Boilerplate Direct
-
VS 4b 20
172 Boilerplate Rib
-
VS 4a 34
173 Aftermath
-
VS 4c * 157
174 Evening Topsy Direct
-
HVS 5a 7
Climb name Grade
175 Bob's Climb VD ** 588
176 Grey Wall
-
VD 24
177 The Final Cut?
-
E2 5b 12
178 Petros VS 4c ** 646
179 Aristophanes
-
E1 5b 2
180 Direct Route S 4a * 664
181 Direct Finish S 4a 123
182 Original Route D 407
  Central Buttress
184 Security Haken E3 5b  
185 Central Gully HS 4a 162
186 Central Slab HVS 5a 48
187 Central Rib VS 4b * 308
188 The Inverted-V
-
VS 4c 9
189 Great Central Piton Route Eliminate E1 5a * 24
190 Great Central Route HVS 5a *** 389
191 Piton Route VS 4c ** 766
192 Balcombe's Way
-
E3 5c  
193 Two-Peg Finish
-
HVS 4c 1
194 Central Eliminate E1 5b 6
195 Grand Central Station E2 5c * 21
196 Central Buttress E1 5a *** 225
197 Centaur E2 5b * 20
198 Pleb in Peril
-
E4 5c 4
199 Diamond Wall
-
E1 5a * 2
200 Diamond Groove
-
E1 5b 50
201 Not before Time
-
E5 5c 1
202 Slap 'n' Tickle
-
E5 6b 2
203 Desperation
-
E1 5a 16
204 Easy Route M 156
205 Corridor VS 4
206 Hiatus VS 2
  Exhibition Slab
208 Route Two
-
none 5a 7
209 Route Minus Two none 5a 17
210 Route Minus One
-
none 6a 9
211 Route 0
-
none 5c 26
212 Route One
-
none 5b 49
213 Joe's Problem
-
none 5c 15
  Fir Tree Slab
215 Left Edge Route
-
VD 36
216 Rake and Slab
-
D 44
217 Descent Route
-
D 54
218 Itslide
-
VS 4b * 59
219 Inferior Rubbers
-
HVS 4c * 65
220 Friction
-
HVS 5a 22
221 Fir Tree Traverse
-
S 35
222 Fingerrip
-
E5 6a 12
223 Artifax
-
E5 5c 7
224 Sockrot
-
E3 5c 5
225 YoYo
-
E2 5b 6
226 RedPoints
-
E2 5b 3
227 Vee Climb
-
HVS 4c 6
228 Waiting for Gonzalo
-
E2 5c  
229 Superior Blubber
-
none 5a 2
  Sewer Wall
231 Hades Crack
-
VS 4c 8
232 Underworld
-
E1 5b  
233 Sewer Groove
-
E1 5b 2
234 Intercepting Trap
-
E3 6a 1
235 Sewer Wall Direct
-
E2 5c  
236 Sewer Wall Super Direct
-
E3 5c  
237 Sewer Wall
-
E1 5a 2
238 Sewerside Wall
-
HVS 5b 1
239 Invert Level
-
E3 6a  
  Fairyland
241 Guy
-
E6 6c 1
242 Bulging Balls
-
E3 6a  
243 Bulging Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
244 The Two-thirty Rain
-
E5 6a 1
245 Fly Away, Ladybird
-
E4 6b  
246 Clot Buster
-
E2 6a  
247 Plasminogen Activator
-
f5+ 4
248 Pining is a Pastime
-
E4 5c  
249 Fir Tree Buttress
-
HS 4a 11
  Greased Lightning Wall
251 Silvermist
-
E3 6a  
252 Faylinn
-
E1 5b  
253 Lightning-Fast-Reactions
-
E1 5a 2
254 Tumbling Dice
-
E4 5c  
255 Greased Lightning Crack
-
HS 4a 4
256 The Moon under Water
-
E2 5c 1
  Roadside
258 Bristol Diamond
-
E4 6b  
259 The Road E6 6c * 1
260 FKD
-
E5 6b  

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