4 pitches. A great wee climb, left of No.4 Gully. The first pitch is the crux, a narrow gully of about 30m, usually ice near the top and quite steep for a grade II. The rest of the route opens out into a broad fan. There are two options from here, the left is graded III and the right still at around I/II. This is an open slope/fan and could well be prone to avalanche. Finishes just to the left and above No. 4 Gully. Great route and never seen anyone here, good place for quietness!

Mcdonald & Turnbull 24/Mar/1934

Ticklists

Ben Nevis Gully Climbs

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
joem 5 Apr AltLd O/S
with Phil behan
with Phil behan
Hidden 5 Apr AltLd
Hidden 5 Apr AltLd
BillyR 19 Feb -
Hidden 19 Feb AltLd
Dominic Burke 2 Apr, 2018 AltLd Abbed off and left size 7 and 8 off-widths - will pay postage for return if found!
Abbed off and left size 7 and 8 off-widths - will pay postage for return if found!
Hidden 26 Feb, 2018 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2018 -
bonebag 16 Feb, 2017 AltLd Climbed on a course with Westcoast Mountain Guides. Weather wet and windy at times and low cloud base. Rain, sleat and snow for a short time near top. Snow soft low down but harder neve up high. Icy first pitch lead by Mark and was melting with running water.
with Mark and Spencer
Climbed on a course with Westcoast Mountain Guides. Weather wet and windy at times and low cloud base. Rain, sleat and snow for a short time near top. Snow soft low down but harder neve up high. Icy first pitch lead by Mark and was melting with running water.
with Mark and Spencer
luckyjim 12 Feb, 2017 Solo
Tinley 22 Jan, 2017 2nd Thin in places but consolidated pack
Thin in places but consolidated pack
DundeeDave 22 Jan, 2017 AltLd Lean but very climbable. Quite stiff for a II in this nick.
with Tinley, ewan.gourlay, Pete (Ewan's pal)
Lean but very climbable. Quite stiff for a II in this nick.
with Tinley, ewan.gourlay, Pete (Ewan's pal)
EuanM 14 Jan, 2017 Lead Not the best choice of route in the conditions. Too powdery and unstable above the first pitch.
Not the best choice of route in the conditions. Too powdery and unstable above the first pitch.
mattsnow 5 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
with daviemj
with daviemj
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
rosso 28 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
with Emily Grout, nathanjmasters
with Emily Grout, nathanjmasters
nathanjmasters 28 Dec, 2016 2nd
with Emily Grout, rosso
with Emily Grout, rosso
BenedictIEP 14 Feb, 2016 Solo O/S Left hand finish up the top of the gully. Nice.
Left hand finish up the top of the gully. Nice.
Hidden 14 Feb, 2016 Solo O/S
Matt Marsh 14 Feb, 2016 Solo
websterm508 16 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Variation left finish
with Johnny B
Variation left finish
with Johnny B
Juliankitesurfer 14 Jan, 2016 2nd First time on The Ben, long walk in past the CIC hut, good gully with ice at the top, came down gully #4
First time on The Ben, long walk in past the CIC hut, good gully with ice at the top, came down gully #4
mBob8 13 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S Mostly a snow slope just two steeper icy steps on first pitch, marginal for screws but still a fun climb. Voted high II just because of limited protection in these conditions.
Mostly a snow slope just two steeper icy steps on first pitch, marginal for screws but still a fun climb. Voted high II just because of limited protection in these conditions.
Hidden 13 Jan, 2016 Solo O/S
Hugh Simons 6 Jan, 2016 Solo O/S Quality!
Quality!
kbow265 6 Jan, 2016 Solo
Hidden 6 Jan, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden 5 Jan, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
luckyjim 25 Dec, 2015 Solo more of a snowy swim than an actual climb !
more of a snowy swim than an actual climb !
Hidden 10 Mar, 2015 Solo
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
Ragingpossum 28 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Lovely route with the left hand variation at the end (III) which Tom led. Ice was well developed but the rocks were very verglassed which made finding rock gear very difficult. Belays just about appeared where you needed them.
with Tom Eldridge
Lovely route with the left hand variation at the end (III) which Tom led. Ice was well developed but the rocks were very verglassed which made finding rock gear very difficult. Belays just about appeared where you needed them.
with Tom Eldridge
Hidden ?Mar, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 5 Mar, 2013 Solo
Gman 21 Feb, 2013 Solo
with Jeremy Hart
with Jeremy Hart
Jerry67 21 Feb, 2013 -
James_L88 20 Jan, 2013 Solo O/S Nice ice at the top of the narrow gully.
Nice ice at the top of the narrow gully.
Elastic Jones 14 Jan, 2013 Lead rpt
with Molly
with Molly
dav_713 12 Jan, 2013 Solo
Hidden 12 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
morsy 10 Jan, 2013 AltLd via LH finish. first pitch had a c.2m bare section so a couple of mixed moves required
with gerhard mors
via LH finish. first pitch had a c.2m bare section so a couple of mixed moves required
with gerhard mors
morsg 10 Jan, 2013 AltLd
with morsy
with morsy
drew8connelly ??, 2013 -
Darrell Read 29 Dec, 2012 AltLd
with 31770
with 31770
bms 18 Dec, 2012 Solo Ice pitch was brilliant.
Ice pitch was brilliant.
luckyjim 12 Dec, 2012 AltLd
with Evelina
with Evelina
freyja 12 Dec, 2012 -
HIGHTOWER 19 Mar, 2012 2nd
with Tom Hansford, Luke Watts
with Tom Hansford, Luke Watts
pete.hutchings 14 Mar, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 13 Mar, 2012 Lead
Ken Applegate 13 Mar, 2012 Lead Good mixed moves on first pitch.
with Rusty
Good mixed moves on first pitch.
with Rusty
NeilGriffiths 10 Mar, 2012 Solo Soggy, muggy. Not really winter.
with Adrian Pedley
Soggy, muggy. Not really winter.
with Adrian Pedley
Sam Warby 7 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
williamsd79 7 Mar, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 6 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 6 Mar, 2012 AltLd
with Mark, Ian
with Mark, Ian
thomb 1 Mar, 2012 AltLd Headed up iceflow on right as gully didn't have a lot of snow or ice. First real ice route, lovely climbing.
Headed up iceflow on right as gully didn't have a lot of snow or ice. First real ice route, lovely climbing.
sacdenouilles 29 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 29 Feb, 2012 AltLd
froglette 28 Feb, 2012 AltLd Patrick led the crux - wet rock
Patrick led the crux - wet rock
kj001 28 Feb, 2012 2nd
with phil64
with phil64
phil64 28 Feb, 2012 Lead
with kj001
with kj001
nickcj 25 Feb, 2012 Lead
planetmarshall 17 Feb, 2012 2nd
with Simon Elstow
with Simon Elstow
jasoncash 14 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
andycash 14 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
texuspete 13 Feb, 2012 Solo O/S
with Mark Bishop, Ben Robotham
with Mark Bishop, Ben Robotham
Pete23 12 Feb, 2012 Lead
with Gary McCaulay
with Gary McCaulay
Gary Macaulay 12 Feb, 2012 2nd
with Peter Berwick
with Peter Berwick
Si Carter 3 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Amazing weather, end of a week of high pressure; cold, clear blue sky, light wind. Conditions good on the route. Plenty of ice to the right of the main gully on pitch 2. Turned cornice on the right up an easy ramp.
with Colin Tiley
Amazing weather, end of a week of high pressure; cold, clear blue sky, light wind. Conditions good on the route. Plenty of ice to the right of the main gully on pitch 2. Turned cornice on the right up an easy ramp.
with Colin Tiley
Jones_88 1 Feb, 2012 Solo
Hidden ?Feb, 2012 2nd
joscott ?Feb, 2012 2nd
with Mathias Basedow
with Mathias Basedow
Doogleman 16 Jan, 2012 Solo O/S Enjoyable little climb. The steep icy start was great fun and in excellent condition. Snow slope was sustained steepening névé up to the cornice, which was impassable at the centre but easily climbable after traversing right.
Enjoyable little climb. The steep icy start was great fun and in excellent condition. Snow slope was sustained steepening névé up to the cornice, which was impassable at the centre but easily climbable after traversing right.
dave1066 12 Jan, 2012 2nd dnf
with Zoe Dean
with Zoe Dean
Blurgy319 ?Jan, 2012 Solo
Steve Wakeford ??, 2012 Solo
J Brown 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Richard lead up through the left hand finish (III).
with RK
Richard lead up through the left hand finish (III).
with RK
Ken Applegate 3 Apr, 2011 Solo Nice route. Ice was sounding a bit hollow on the first pitch, but overall, the route is in reasonable condition. Working day.
Nice route. Ice was sounding a bit hollow on the first pitch, but overall, the route is in reasonable condition. Working day.
keith hal 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Peter Berwick
with Peter Berwick
Wesley Orvis 1 Apr, 2011 Lead
Pete23 ?Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Keith Haldane
with Keith Haldane
gilbert 29 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S The ice pitch was steeper than your average II. Closer to III but then the rest o fthe route was pretty straight forward. Deceptively long way up to that cornice though.
with John Naylor
The ice pitch was steeper than your average II. Closer to III but then the rest o fthe route was pretty straight forward. Deceptively long way up to that cornice though.
with John Naylor
theycallmefrodo 27 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S Climbing as two pairs, Dave and John, me and Ian
with Ian Richardson, John Kirkman, David Tait
Climbing as two pairs, Dave and John, me and Ian
with Ian Richardson, John Kirkman, David Tait
isi_o 6 Mar, 2011 AltLd Left-hand variation at III, very nice.
with Graham Stuchbury
Left-hand variation at III, very nice.
with Graham Stuchbury
Stuzz 6 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead P1 &3, 1st pitch steep for II but good ice. Finished up left hand variation at top (About III)
with Isi
Lead P1 &3, 1st pitch steep for II but good ice. Finished up left hand variation at top (About III)
with Isi
nickcj 6 Mar, 2011 Lead
Timo Austino 5 Mar, 2011 Solo just nipped back up here for a wee giggle, nice ice:)
with Nats
just nipped back up here for a wee giggle, nice ice:)
with Nats
tomshanti 5 Mar, 2011 Solo O/S steepish start.took left hand finish(III)-firmer and in shade!hard ice in left cnr before cornice.fun
steepish start.took left hand finish(III)-firmer and in shade!hard ice in left cnr before cornice.fun
Piglet69 28 Feb, 2011 2nd
with alifin
with alifin
paulh.0776 2 Feb, 2011 2nd
with Andy Ravenhill,
with Andy Ravenhill,
Mr Fuller 29 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Led 1st and 3rd pitches. Did LH variation at III. Quality!
with Dan
Led 1st and 3rd pitches. Did LH variation at III. Quality!
with Dan
mikemartin 28 Jan, 2011 Solo
Hidden 27 Jan, 2011 Solo
np134 27 Jan, 2011 Solo O/S
with A. Singleton, N. Howett
with A. Singleton, N. Howett
Pat-H 26 Jan, 2011 Lead rpt
with don, andy
with don, andy
Hidden 26 Jan, 2011 -
Ewan Russell 22 Jan, 2011 Solo O/S Brilliant Neve, Possibly took the left fork but only grade II in those conditions.
Brilliant Neve, Possibly took the left fork but only grade II in those conditions.
ged3000 2 Jan, 2011 2nd
abbeywall 2 Jan, 2011 AltLd Third time on this excellent grade 2. Led first pitch, steep water ice for the grade. Bucket steps, bomber neve and a nice narrow exit after that
with ged, K
Third time on this excellent grade 2. Led first pitch, steep water ice for the grade. Bucket steps, bomber neve and a nice narrow exit after that
with ged, K
Mr. K 1 Jan, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Tenko ??, 2011 -
mikehenesy 16 Dec, 2010 Solo Pitched the first as had hoped it was 'the gift', soloed the rest. Bit stiffer than it could have been due to thin conditions, cold enough though.
with Dave Tait, Percy
Pitched the first as had hoped it was 'the gift', soloed the rest. Bit stiffer than it could have been due to thin conditions, cold enough though.
with Dave Tait, Percy
gripped01 16 Dec, 2010 AltLd
with mikehenesy, Dave Tait
with mikehenesy, Dave Tait
iceicebaby 12 Dec, 2010 - The wee ice step was thin, tricky and no gear unless you are a giant and can lassoo the spike! Nice wee line though, very quiet part of the mountain.
The wee ice step was thin, tricky and no gear unless you are a giant and can lassoo the spike! Nice wee line though, very quiet part of the mountain.
JamesRoddie 30 Nov, 2010 Solo O/S Fun solo. A nice pitch of steep ice about 1/3 of the way up.
Fun solo. A nice pitch of steep ice about 1/3 of the way up.
marie_p ?Nov, 2010 2nd
with John
with John
rob k 23 Feb, 2010 Solo O/S
with P Harley
with P Harley
Piers Harley 23 Feb, 2010 Solo looked at the alternative finish but it wasn't in.
looked at the alternative finish but it wasn't in.
Pat-H ?Feb, 2010 2nd
rockstott ?Feb, 2010 AltLd
kenneM 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd
with Steve Marner
with Steve Marner
colinthrelfall ??, 2010 -
Only a hill 18 Dec, 2009 Solo O/S A good short route. Ice pitch starting to bank out.
A good short route. Ice pitch starting to bank out.
R_W_M 13 Dec, 2009 2nd
Protheroe 13 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S
with Clay and Rob
with Clay and Rob
Hidden 13 Dec, 2009 2nd O/S
CurlyStevo ?Dec, 2009 Solo nice conditions!
with Alex
nice conditions!
with Alex
Hidden 13 Apr, 2009 Lead
Dirk Wallis 21 Mar, 2009 Solo
with Gwilym
with Gwilym
kingjam ?Mar, 2009 2nd
with Guide
with Guide
Simonfarfaraway 28 Feb, 2009 AltLd
with Huw
with Huw
IanMcC ?Feb, 2009 AltLd
with ade
with ade
Glyn 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S Lead 1st ice pitch. First proper winter lead
Lead 1st ice pitch. First proper winter lead
Hidden 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
davefount 2 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S nice first pitch, led by Glyn, rest of the route a disapointment, wish I had had a look at the direct finish.
with Glyn
nice first pitch, led by Glyn, rest of the route a disapointment, wish I had had a look at the direct finish.
with Glyn
Hidden 2 Jan, 2009 Solo
Hidden ?Jan, 2009 Solo
KeithW 31 Dec, 2008 Solo O/S Good little ice pitch at first, then bomber neve all the way
Good little ice pitch at first, then bomber neve all the way
Hidden 31 Dec, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 30 Dec, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 29 Dec, 2008 2nd O/S
George Ormerod 20 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
steven 9 Apr, 2008 -
with Matt Rushton
with Matt Rushton
lancashirelass 2 Apr, 2008 AltLd my first winter climb!....sooo fantastic...and what a perfect sunny day to do it :-)
with kjbix
my first winter climb!....sooo fantastic...and what a perfect sunny day to do it :-)
with kjbix
beckycoles 17 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S Think this might have been better in leaner conditions - couldn't find the ice pitch.
Think this might have been better in leaner conditions - couldn't find the ice pitch.
thomasaneurinsmith 8 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Carol Goodall
with Carol Goodall
industrialiceman 24 Feb, 2008 -
My Gravity 18 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S The ice was pretty thin at the start so it felt more like a III.
with Laurence
The ice was pretty thin at the start so it felt more like a III.
with Laurence
ruggystunts 18 Feb, 2008 Solo
Jimmy O 17 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S First pitch very bare, thin seam of water ice in the gully, some interesting moves! well above grade 2.
with Andy Blackett and Jonny Taylor
First pitch very bare, thin seam of water ice in the gully, some interesting moves! well above grade 2.
with Andy Blackett and Jonny Taylor
jonny taylor 17 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S James led the crux pitch which was on alarmingly sparse and disintegrating ice
James led the crux pitch which was on alarmingly sparse and disintegrating ice
Hidden 16 Feb, 2008 Lead
mikehenesy ?Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S Cold and cloudy, ice pitch falling down!
with Chris Lodge
Cold and cloudy, ice pitch falling down!
with Chris Lodge
hamish2016 3 Jan, 2008 Lead
with chris burn
with chris burn
Hidden ?Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
Phill_ Thompson ??, 2008 AltLd
with skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins
with skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins
kjbix ??, 2008 Lead
stuaart ??, 2008 2nd O/S
with Neil Redgrave
with Neil Redgrave
Billy Walker - Bad Seller 30 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S Easy route,little ice pitch.
with Martian
Easy route,little ice pitch.
with Martian
Hidden 25 Mar, 2007 Solo
andrewbooth1000 3 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Pete Baillie
with Pete Baillie
joe king ?Mar, 2007 Lead
with John Hodgson
with John Hodgson
Piers Harley 8 Feb, 2007 AltLd β
with Simon Clark
with Simon Clark
dan cowley 8 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
with Natalie
with Natalie
Jim Haydock 8 Feb, 2007 Solo
with alone
with alone
Hidden 6 Feb, 2007 Lead
Zoomer 6 Feb, 2007 2nd
with Pat Tate
with Pat Tate
Piers Harley ?Feb, 2007 AltLd
with Simon Clark
with Simon Clark
andy hunter ?Feb, 2007 AltLd excellent climb good conditions lovely views. descended number 4.
with Andy W
excellent climb good conditions lovely views. descended number 4.
with Andy W
alan wilson ??, 2007 -
alan wilson ??, 2007 -
Stuart Macfarlane 18 Mar, 2006 AltLd
with Phil
with Phil
TeeBee 3 Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Kat
with Kat
gripped01 ?Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
with Si Moore
with Si Moore
reg_measures ?Mar, 2006 Solo O/S
Captain Solo 25 Feb, 2006 Solo
abbeywall 4 Feb, 2006 AltLd
with K
with K
Howard J 3 Feb, 2006 AltLd O/S Also with Rachel James. A nice ice pitch at Grade II, then snow to the top. Fantastic sunset and a moonlit brocken spectre on the way down
with Steve Birchall
Also with Rachel James. A nice ice pitch at Grade II, then snow to the top. Fantastic sunset and a moonlit brocken spectre on the way down
with Steve Birchall
Hidden 3 Feb, 2006 Lead
Jennyvs ?Feb, 2006 Solo
with Emily Venables
with Emily Venables
Hidden ?Feb, 2006 Lead
Hidden 28 Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Chris L Hill ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
with Stuart Shaw
icescrew ?Mar, 2005 AltLd
with The Fox
with The Fox
Hidden ?Feb, 2005 Solo
Hidden ?Feb, 2005 Lead
Elastic Jones 11 Mar, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Chris Cox
with Chris Cox
niall_mac ?Feb, 2004 AltLd
with Mark R
with Mark R
Hannah V 17 Mar, 2003 2nd
Hidden ?Feb, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 20 Feb, 2002 AltLd
Andy Clarke 26 Jan, 2002 Lead Moved together.
with ChrisB
Moved together.
with ChrisB
luckyjim ?Dec, 2000 Solo
abbeywall ?Mar, 2000 AltLd
with K
with K
Andy Say 14 Apr, 1998 Solo
jlury ?Mar, 1996 Solo Paul died 2 weeks later. so sad.
with Paul Bale
Paul died 2 weeks later. so sad.
with Paul Bale
Hidden ?Jan, 1995 Lead O/S
Sime64 ?Apr, 1993 Lead rpt
with Gill
with Gill
Sime64 15 Apr, 1992 Lead
with Gill
with Gill
auld al ??, 1991 AltLd O/S
pingora 12 Dec, 1987 Solo
Hidden 1 Mar, 1986 AltLd
johnkeith ??, 1985 -
John Marsland ?Dec, 1981 Lead dnf
with P Upsom
with P Upsom
Mark Kemball 23 Feb, 1981 Solo
with Mark Boon
with Mark Boon
Hidden 17 Feb, 1980 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 1977 AltLd
Sean Kelly ?Feb, 1977 - Big cornice!
with Tony Caldwell
Big cornice!
with Tony Caldwell
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Voting
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
High II
Mid II
Low II
High I/II
Mid I/II
Low I/II
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set