UKC

31 pitches. VI 5.8 C2 to 5.14a - You choose

The world's most most well-known rock climb and one of the finest. As well as climbing a compelling feature and being superbly positioned, many of the individual pitches are magnificent pieces of climbing in isolation. In total, the route is justifiably the apex of many people's climbing aspirations. Most parties still take 3-5 days. The Nose...in-a-day is a special experience. QUOTE Duncan Critchley first NIAD Brit. The current speed record is a scarcely believable 2:23:51 by Hans Florine and Alex Honnold beating the old record of 2hrs 36mins 45secs by Dean Potter & Sean Leary.

FFA Lynn Hill Sep/1993

Ticklists: Parois-de-legende, Road to the Nose - SuperTopo, ICAS Climbing Club.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 20/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/17 Lead dnf
CMoore 11/Oct/17 AltLd

NIAD. First time on the Nose. What an epic day. 20hrs of climbing. Absouloutely unbeleivably amazing.

with Sam Stephens
Heather Osborne ?/Oct/17 AltLd

Luke and Alex fixed up to pitch 8 (rope already fixed up to pitch 6), then we slept at the base, woke at 3.30am the next day then spent 3 days on the wall. Luke led almost all of it, I just led the Jardine Traverse. Fell several times before making the sequence by the skin of my teeth! Learnt loads and had an incredible time on the wall, though felt exhausted at a couple points. Better food and more efficient jumaring would have helped there!

with Luke Bounds, Alex Law
Just Another Dave 26/Sep/17 AltLd

Abandoned first attempt from a sodden portaledge bivi (no flysheet) at top of P6, gibbering and shaking, having sat through a storm in 8inches of freezing water. Returned to the highpoint 2 days later (many other teams had also bailed - plenty of fixed lines), climbing new ground only at 2p.m. Spent 4 nights - Dolt, then sharing the 1-man portaledge at top of P17, Camp V (slopey! -just slid right off without erecting the ledge!), and top of P28. Topped out before noon, so just under 4 days climbing. Hadn't appreciated how much is free-able; weighed down with kit, inefficient in our technique, and wrongly shod, we aided far too much. (Pete Frost below has good advice I would have done well to heed). Also took too much water - 3 gallon containers smashed during the ascent, still had spare at the top! (budgetted one each per day; drank around half!). Brad Gobright & partner flew past us in a speed record attempt, shortly after waking up on Dolt. Jo dropped his GoreTex with iPhone7 in the pocket during the night from the bivi ledge at Pitch29. Both turned up in Camp4 later, completely unharmed! Fatal rockfall occurred on the East Buttress the day after our topout. - very sad.

with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 12/Sep/17 AltLd dnf
joeflan 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Incredibly stoked to get to top after bailing from dolt last year due to bad weather,,, did in two 12 hour days and one 9 hour got bag to sickle rested a day at base then el cap tower camp V and top ,,, Biggest physical and mental challenge to date, highlight pitches Texas flake and great roof ????

with Sam Stevens
Hidden 06/Jul/17 Lead dnf
NatCheeseman 05/Jul/17 2nd
with tobra
Hidden 05/Jun/17 Lead
Hidden 12/Mar/17 -
Pete_Frost 07/Nov/16 AltLd

Do not climb this as your first big wall. It is a free route with a lot of aid and you'll have way more fun if you spend a week or so free climbing up to 5.11 on Yosemite cracks of all kinds before you get on this. Free climb as many pitches, and sections of pitches as you can. There's a lot of fixed gear, including all the lower-out points, and the bolt ladder at the top has modern bolts. Allow an American gallon jug of water per day, and take extra food and beer for a bivi on the summit - the highlight of your ascent. Do not descend the East Ledges for the first time in the dark - it's easy to get off-route in daylight! We fixed and hauled to Sickle Ledges on day one, then slept at Camp 4, before re-ascending the fixed lines and casting off. El Cap Tower is a plush bivi, and Camp V is nowhere near as good, but we had it to ourselves and were able to make it comfy. Because we climbed in November, we had the wall to ourselves too, and met only NIAD parties on the way. The temperatures were way more comfortable but the days were short so we climbed into the night to reach our bivis. We topped out at sunset on the final day.

with Barry Smith
Hidden 23/Oct/16 AltLd dnf
ben.phillips 22/Oct/16 AltLd

6 days - 5 nights - epic journey. What an experience.

with Robin Edwards, Mike Gallimore
Pippa 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S

First 2 pitches only following storm

Andrew Barker ?/Oct/16 AltLd dnf

Bailed in the Stove Legs due to multiple parties climbing over each other.

with Chris M
DavidEvans 26/Sep/16 AltLd dnf

Pitches 1-4 to Sickle Ledge

with Jules Vulliamy
Hidden 03/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Mowglee 03/Sep/16 AltLd

First big wall. Four days, with portaledge. Fixed to sickle, abbed off. Hauled the next day and slept at sickle. Bivied just below Dolt(!), just after the king swing, and at camp V. Slept on the top after topping out about 6pm. I lead in the mornings and followed/cleaned in the afternoons, swapping over early afternoon. Though by the last day we were swapping every couple of pitches as we were both pretty knackered. Had the whole wall to ourselves for the majority of the time, save for a couple of NIAD Aussie teams passing us on day two. Temperatures were perfect, so not sure why it was so quiet. Was rammed the week after! No particular epics, just long days and hard work. Pig didn't really get stuck, only dropped a quickdraw and a chalkbag. Having the ledge made hauling harder but took the pressure off - no climbing in the dark! Walk off was a colossal ball ache; took days for legs to recover. Didn't fancy the east ledges rap descent; someone was killed there a few days earlier. Brilliant experience and one I'll remember forever.

with Huw
magicmartin ?/Sep/16 Lead dnf

We came we tried and we failed! Amazing experience though and amazing to have the opportunity to try! We may be back!

with RyanS
dom_joyce265 30/Aug/16 AltLd

+joe1joe1jo2 ugh... that descent

phillipwright 30/Aug/16 AltLd
joe1joe1joe2 30/Aug/16 AltLd G/U

5 days and 5 nights. It was an amazing experience. So many lessons learnt. Our first successful big wall! Yehhhhhhhhhh budddday!

nickwhimster 29/May/16 AltLd

4 days, 3 nights. Epic obvs!! date climbed is summit day, started on 26th

monsteratt 29/May/16 AltLd

Made it to the top :-). Four days, three nights, no fixing to sickle (very, very long first day), no portaledge, stuck behind Spanish team whole way = poor bivi ledges, freed/frigged more than I thought, lead the great roof on cam hooks, freed pancake flake. Long first day (14 pitches) then easier 2nd and 3rd day, knackered final day. Topped out at 2 pm and walked down finishing just behind the Spanish team and just ahead of the French team who had fixed to sickle on our first day.

Little AndyH 24/May/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/May/16 -
wilkinscl ?/May/16 AltLd dnf

Bailed at pitch 20, going too slowly

with Caleb
Kemics ?/May/16 AltLd dnf

Fixed to sickle. Then day 1 got stuck behind very slow but lovely America team. Got to dolt after 20 hours! Never really recovered. After 3 days we bailed from the start of the great roof although we still had a days food and water..we would have been pushed. Lots of lessons learned. Most importantly, the leader carries minimum gear! Triple rack was total over kill. Can leave the wires at home too. Also 32 degree heat wave didnt helps things. Will be back

with Corin
paultaylor 23/Oct/15 Lead G/U

5 days 4 nights, leisurely ascent. Climbed to sickle and fixed to top of P6 bivi on sickle - uncomfortable. To El Cap tower all bar one party in front bail. Comfy bivi. To camp IV as will hurt ankle on king swing - uncomfortable bivi. To camp VI and fix next pitch - ok bivi. Top out before lunch and walk down. Amazing

Pete Scott 07/Oct/15 AltLd

Took 3 days with the last several pitches in the dark. Slept by the tree. Lots of aid! I got to lead some amazing pitches Texas Flake, King Swing, Great Roof). Incredible. https://smokeyandpete.wordpress.com/2015/10/14/the-valley/

Hidden 12/Sep/15 2nd β
Hidden 30/Aug/15 AltLd
ashtond6 14/Jun/15 AltLd

Done first 5 and last 11 pitches, will come back for the legs and the boot!

heg ?/Jun/15 AltLd

An awesome experience!

philhilo 25/May/15 AltLd

We did it! Possibly the slowest time since Warren Harding, 6 1/2 days (excluding fixing to Sickle). Masses of traffic, 5-6 hours to do first Stovelegs pitch. We were slow, but had a mountain of food and drink (2:1 hauling until 5th day) so kept plodding on, let all teams pass so that cost 2 - 4 hours a day. Nearly bailed twice, fatality above us stress, going too slow, but too slow for what? Aided vast majority as triple rack, and heavy haul rope made 5.9 feel like E3 on a long day. Shattered most days.

with Helen E
lukehunt ?/May/15 AltLd dnf

3 fantastic and memorable days climbing. Bailed from the Kingswing due to fatigue and weather. A great first big wall experience.

with andy hall, max
Splitter-philiac ?/May/15 AltLd dog
alooker 27/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Mega.

with Ed
mrteale 27/Oct/14 AltLd

3 nights and 4 days, second attempt after bailing from Dolt Tower the week before. Finished at 4/5 pm most days to great sunsets, comfy portaledge bivys and good music. We were passed at El cap tower by Libby and Mayan on their successful speed record ascent. First el cap route, unforgettable experience.

with alook
Smelly Fox 08/Oct/14 AltLd dnf

Just to sickle ledge this time. Will come back when it's not 96deg...!

with Dan Wessel
Hidden 07/Oct/14 AltLd
duncan 21/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

23 hours (3am to 2am). 30th Anniversary of previous ascent.

with Hugo Glover
Hidden 21/Jun/14 -
duncan 18/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

To Dolt Tower (5.5 hours). Short-fixing makes a big difference.

with Hugo Glover
duncan 16/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

To Dolt Tower (7.5 hours)

with Hugo Glover
duncan 15/Jun/14 AltLd rpt

To base of Stovelegs (5 hours)

with Hugo Glover
David Sherratt 12/Jun/14 AltLd
jacobjacob 30/May/14 Lead

16 hours, turned into a bit of an epic when I fell off the pancake flake and smashed my foot, all good fun though!

jacobjacob 28/May/14 Lead

4 days, 3 nights, quite a leisurely ascent with Bron. My first time up El Cap, not my last!

Bron H ?/May/14 AltLd
Ellis Bird ?/May/14 AltLd

Three days on the wall

Duncan Campbell 20/Oct/13 AltLd dnf

Too slow as a three and might have run out of water - arguments between team with me in the middle didn't help niether did being at the end of a long trip. A bit gutting!

markalmack 29/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Just did a quick afternoon blast up to dolt

with Catalyn
Andy Clarke 26/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Found the technical aid on Ps 1-4 engrossing & enjoyable. Fixed & returned but were too heavy, too inefficient, too slow. Bailed from Stovelegs after v cold night on portaledge. Starlit & shivering. Hard work getting down with ledge/pig dangling from our harnesses. Aggravated old injury, which plagued me for rest of trip. Govt shutdown then closed Park. Learned a lot, tho doubt I'll be back now. But still intend to complete the Nose: leisurely ascent of Staffs grit version. So plenty of jamming left to do!

with Tim
Neil Adams 20/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Failed! Set of with food & water for 3 days (2 nights) but weren't moving fast enough to achieve that. Bivied on Dolt Tower then abbed off. Weather crapped out later in the day so glad we bailed when we did! Amazing position on an awesome lump of rock but need to be freeing more to make it fast & fun.

with Ross B
tomwheeler 14/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Only reached Dolt Tower. Bivvied after pitch 8 then rapped down following day

bencoope 14/Sep/13 AltLd
GuitarGenius92 07/Sep/13 AltLd dnf

Didn't make it due to dropped gear and illness, amazing route though.

with Fails, Murray
jrobbings ?/Sep/13 -

Absolutely incredible route.

Hidden 17/Jun/13 AltLd
steve.warrington 30/May/13 Lead
with Stuart Llewellyn, Nik Goile
stuwelly85 24/May/13 AltLd

Aid climbed over 5 nights, 7 days.

Hidden 24/May/13 AltLd
MonkeyDawson ?/May/13 AltLd

Two and a half days. Note to memory dont start at lunchtime...

with Simon Smith
uncontrollable 02/Apr/13 AltLd

Climbed over 6 days ground up. Some rain on 3rd day. Topped out in a blizzard.

with Daj
Hidden 12/Nov/12 AltLd
Andy Clarke 27/Sep/12 Lead dnf

P1 only (this time)! Done as preparation for whole thing in 2013. Just one pitch of aiding up this beautiful cliff erased all the doubts and convinced me that sending the route would be worth every personal sacrifice it demanded. Get it done before I qualify for my bus pass.

with Tim
tim newton 22/Sep/12 AltLd
elCapitano 19/Aug/12 AltLd

Notes in detail here; http://lifeinthetopstep.blogspot.co.uk/?m=1

with Courty
M_W_Court 19/Aug/12 AltLd

Led to sickle, Sutty led to El Cap Tower, I led to the great roof, Sutty to the top of Changing Corners, me to the top. 3 long days including a pitch by head torch both of the first 2 nights. Bivvied at El Cap Tower and Camp 5. More detail on www.lifeinthetopstep.blogspot.com

alan1234 ?/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 24/May/12 2nd
natetan ?/May/12 AltLd

Freed 25 or so pitches.. was great fun. Leisurely 5 day gig with Oli Lyon - vid here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T_x6NXQyFA

GOD ??/2012 Solo
Andrew Sandercock ?/Oct/11 AltLd dnf

Fixed to sickle, hauled next day, no space to bivi on sickle so slept as base. Got stuck behind 4(!) parties in the stovelegs, bad weather came in, waited for several hours, weather got worse, had a minor epic bailing through the night/in the storm.

with Will Walker
stuart34 26/Sep/11 AltLd

21hrs (ish) Started 6pm on the 20th. Led from Camp 4 to top of changing corners pitch.

with Kim Ladiges
kitkat78 22/Sep/11 Lead dog

Aid practice. Half of pitch one, then Steve took over and finished it off. Have even more respect for the people that climb this now - more practice needed from where I'm standing.

with SteveM
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd
eddy-on-the-rocks ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome. 3 nights. Vertical backpacking at it's finest.

with max, Tom
tommytuffa ?/Aug/11 -

Team of three. Fixed to sickle and hauled, two rest days then four days and three nights to send (Dolt, Camp IV and VI) Topped out with lots of water and food left, fire and water fight on top. Didn't lead many pitches, others happy to do it for me. Worst bit was night on cam IV for me. awqesome adventure... August is not necessarily too hot and there aren't as many climbers about. We had route to ourselves and were wearing jackets for quite a few pitches. Dolt to Camp IV if you're planning to do it like us is quite far and we climbed last pitches in dark, Max slept on ledge below camp IV.

with edd, max
mshorter 11/Jun/11 AltLd

2 nights, El Cap Tower and around camp VI, but not in it.

with dunc
sparkass 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Yes!Yes!Yes! This is the one. Fixed to Sickle and had an epic involving thunder storms, a family of bears and a friendly ranger. Had a plush bivy for many at El Cap Tower and a shit bivy for none around Camp V. I led the Stovelegs, the Texas Flake and the Great Roof to pick a few. YES!

pete87abs 10/Jun/11 AltLd

Fantastic experience, steep learning curve, one terrible bivi below camp 4, lots more suffering, cant wait to do it again some day!

DJayB 10/Jun/11 AltLd

"In a shove" 2 days with one uncomfortable bivy just below Camp 4! Climbed as a three with no hauling and 2 day packs. Absolutely amazing!!

Hidden 10/Jun/11 AltLd
uncontrollable 26/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

fixed in pouring rain until Sickle and had to wait several days for the weather to clear. Managed to get in 2 days till the top of Boot Flake and had to abseil off in order not to miss our flight back

with Daj
Ri ??/2011 TR dog
Ed Booth 27/Sep/10 AltLd

Incredible! 3 nights. Lots of aiding and not enough freeing. But amazing route that i will never forget.

Adam Booth 27/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd
dan gibson 13/May/10 AltLd

In a day. Took about 21 hours, the top pitches after camp six were streaming water. Amazing day out.

with alex scola
uncontrollable 15/Apr/10 Lead dnf

went till Sickle, but where way to slow. bailed after an uncomfortable bivy.

with phillip
AdrianP 09/Oct/09 AltLd

16h 48min, 3 blocks. One big climbing goal ticked...

with Olli
Hidden ?/Oct/09 AltLd
alaan 16/Sep/09 -

Climbed as a three in three days. First big wall and so much fun. Second bivi at camp 6 was a bit uncomfortable, mind...

Hidden 15/Sep/09 AltLd
hlegge 12/Sep/09 AltLd

Started on the 9th, spent three nights on the face. Ended up teaming up with another group, as we did not have enough kit, they did not have enough water, and we had plenty of water, they had plenty of kit. Therefore climbed as a team of 5 with 2 haul bags, 2 porter ledges etc, lots of logistical rope work and rope techniques. Not as satisfying to climb as Half Dome, but still aweinspiring, and huge exposure especially when jugging up the ropes near the top.

tcn_2002 12/Sep/09 AltLd
Paul ablitt 03/Sep/09 Lead G/U

first big wall ,lead and hauled all pitchs .4 days 3 nights valley to valley floor .

with Sarah
Hidden 03/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd
ian bryant ?/Sep/09 AltLd dog
with adrian, dan
Paul ablitt 26/Aug/09 Lead dnf

first 4 pitches

with Sarah
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
Billg 19/May/09 AltLd

5 days. El Cap Towers, Camp4, Camp6. Walked out to Upper Falls Trail. God that haul bag was Heavy. Bob walked out in his rock shoes - 8.5 miles !!!

with Bob Brewer
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
alasdair19 ??/2009 -
david morse ?/Oct/08 AltLd

Ard' work

with Rampant and Genera;
Hidden 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
markalmack 20/Sep/08 AltLd

amazing route. nose in a day!!!!!!!

Oliver Sherman 15/Sep/08 AltLd

Sort of 4 day ascent. 50h anniversary year. Sweet.

with Kane Chandler
hiyaneil ?/Sep/08 AltLd G/U

Best climb in the universe

with Callum
C coldwell-storry ?/Sep/08 AltLd
with Neil Chelton
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead dog
chrisbevins ?/Jun/07 AltLd
SteveM 08/Oct/05 AltLd

8th-12th October

with Keith
stevebarratt ?/Oct/05 AltLd
with Karl Schimanski
keith leonard ?/Oct/05 -
with steve mead
Jon Garside ?/Oct/04 AltLd

What a lot of fun!

Hidden ?/Oct/04 AltLd
akhughes ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S

3 days

with Steptoe
sadams 14/Jul/04 Lead

3 days

with Hugh Cottom
pauldrew ?/May/04 AltLd dnf

Got as far as Stove Leg cracks (again) - same story, too hot and really struggling to haul sack so abbed off.

with Rick Newcombe, Pete Johnson
pauldrew ?/May/04 AltLd dnf

Attempt number 3 - aiming to go light with no haul bag and see how far we could get. Again reached Stove Leg cracks but this time too cold (freezing wind) and had to abb off again.

with Rick Newcombe
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd dnf
alpinist63 ?/Jul/99 -

5.10/C1

K1 06/Sep/98 AltLd

3 days

with Kevin Davey
Hidden ?/Aug/98 -
Hidden 14/Sep/95 -
Andy Hyslop ??/1994 AltLd
Mike Owen 09/Nov/93 AltLd

We started early on 7/11/93 and got to the top around 2pm on 9/11/93. No fixing to Sickle Ledge, abbing and then starting the day after. We just went for it, alternate leads travelling light with the absolute minimum. Bivied on El Cap Tower (luxery) and Camp 5 (awful). It snowed the day after we finished!!

with Dave Hassall
Hidden 09/Jun/93 AltLd dog
Hidden 01/Jun/93 AltLd dnf
Andy Hyslop ?/May/93 AltLd
with John Topping
mike mo ?/May/92 AltLd
with simon mardel jon compson
pauldrew ?/May/92 AltLd dnf

Got as far as Stove Leg cracks - too hot and really struggling to haul sack so abbed off.

with Ian Lewis
Will Webb ?/Aug/87 AltLd G/U
with Mark Cole
keefe 24/Aug/85 -
duncan 21/Jun/84 AltLd rpt

Started: 5.00am; top: 2.30pm; Camp 4: 4pm.

with Romain Vogler
duncan 07/Oct/81 AltLd

c.80% free at about E2. Bivi'ed on El Cap towers and Camp 5. Rained hard second night.

with Simon Reed
Steve Clegg 20/May/76 AltLd
with Pete B, Pete W
211 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High C3
Mid C3
Low C3
High C2
Mid C2
Low C2
High C1
Mid C1
Low C1
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set