Rockfax Description
The wall to the right of the gully to the first lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Popular low grade retroed wall climb

Tophe 27/Aug/17 Lead RP
with Nina
Rob Kelly 25/Aug/17 Lead RP

Nice to get a tick at Kilnsey, even if it was the warm up and took two goes!

John Kettle 24/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Didymus 22/Aug/17 Lead β
Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead rpt
patrickcd 17/Aug/17 Lead
with Simon
Hidden 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Mowglee 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Jon
Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Toby 12/Aug/17 Lead β
with Team stag
PeteH 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Pete Hart
Dan Jenkin 12/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Lenny 05/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Hidden
belay bunny turned bad 02/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with nicky, james
Joshua Robertson 24/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Alex
Kimmi gayle 22/Jul/17 Lead O/S
stev1e.wilso 12/Jul/17 TR dog
with Oliver Fulton
SaraAlassam 09/Jul/17 Lead G/U
with Simon Bennett
williap 06/Jul/17 Lead RP
John Kettle 03/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Kelsey 03/Jul/17 Lead β
with Emily
scottcoates 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Oli Read
Paul Figg 18/Jun/17 Lead rpt
JendeHoxar 07/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with John
Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Rocky 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Remus
Lenny 01/Jun/17 Lead RP
with Gayle
oliver.ghill91 ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Juliette, Patrick Hill
ninastirrup 29/May/17 Lead β
with Jonny Pearson , Chris Smith
Rachael Ellis 29/May/17 Lead O/S
with Juliette
Hidden 21/May/17 Lead
Hidden 17/May/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/17 Lead O/S
Graeme Smithy ?/May/17 Lead β
with Al Doig
tommccluskey 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/17 TR
richardsunda ?/Apr/17 Lead RP

second go

Hidden ??/2017 -
nicolat ??/2017 -
Paul Figg 14/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Ranaz 04/Sep/16 Lead β
1poundSOCKS 18/Aug/16 Lead rpt
richiebongo 18/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Beefy Bert 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Butel 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Harriet Ridley
nai 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Theo
Henry Swandale 09/Aug/16 TR RP
lloydrees91 05/Aug/16 Lead
realbobsmith 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Paul Figg 26/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Nick Clement 18/Jul/16 Lead
with Malcolm Bass
Nick Clement 13/Jul/16 Lead
with Malcolm Bass
Hidden 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Nick Clement 12/Jul/16 Lead
with Malcolm Bass
kyaizawa 10/Jul/16 Lead dog
Paul Figg 06/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
bwestwood 30/Jun/16 Lead
Paul Figg 30/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead rpt
JendeHoxar 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ed
Julie Carroll 23/Jun/16 Lead RP
with Peter Dickinson, Garry, Steve Gorton
chiverstom 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Alice
ambrooker 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Tom
Dave Turnbull 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Good climbing pity it wasn't longer. A pleasure (for me anyway) to do a Kilnsey route that isn't tilted the wrong way.

chiverstom 19/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Joe white, Dan Parkes, Sam Keyne
Hidden 15/Jun/16 Lead β
will9911 13/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Alex Handley 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Misha 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Warm up 1. Some good moves and rock generally sound.

with Theo
merlin138 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
funsized 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 10/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
nickmoulden ?/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
Ian Broome 30/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead rpt
rachelvlc 29/May/16 Lead
Kim M 10/May/16 Lead rpt
with Nige
sdht 05/May/16 Lead O/S
dprctr 01/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Beefy Bert ??/2016 Lead O/S
Tommyads ??/2016 -
Hidden 18/Oct/15 TR
Hidden 18/Oct/15 Lead rpt
gcarmichael 04/Oct/15 Lead β
with Becki Hall
Paul Figg 10/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/15 -
Jono_LS16 26/Aug/15 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 24/Aug/15 TR dnf
with Dan
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Amy UT 09/Aug/15 TR O/S
with Glyn
Glyn 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Good climbing at the grade, quite exposed moving out right onto the face. Take care with some loose holds

with Amy
Hidden 03/Aug/15 Lead RP
stp 28/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Plant
jonti 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 06/Jul/15 Lead rpt


with Pete Harrison
Anna M 05/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Nige
Paul Figg 25/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 14/Jun/15 Lead RP

some good fall practise

1poundSOCKS 11/Jun/15 Lead RP

I keep top-roping it to warm-up, so it only felt right and proper to lead it.

Hidden 11/Jun/15 Lead RP
John Brayshaw 08/Jun/15 TR dog
with Dan
John Brayshaw 08/Jun/15 Lead RP

1st redpoint attempt

with Dan
Tim Rodgers 07/Jun/15 Lead
Anna M 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Nige
Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead
Paul Figg 03/Jun/15 Lead
JayAyBee ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Dave
Sam Marks 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Benjamin Mitchell 17/May/15 2nd
with loundsy
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead O/S
jeddb 13/May/15 Lead O/S
bomtall 13/May/15 Lead RP
John Brayshaw 11/May/15 Lead dog
with Dan
John Brayshaw 11/May/15 TR RP
with Dan
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead
John Brayshaw 27/Apr/15 Lead dnf
with Dan
John Brayshaw 20/Apr/15 TR dog
with Dan
kelliroberts3 05/Apr/15 Lead β
J_joewhite ??/2015 Lead O/S
Ben Grounsell ??/2015 Lead O/S
samwillo 27/Sep/14 Lead
with George Newham
Glenn Sutcliffe 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with keefe
L.miura 31/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Peter Dickinson
keefe 28/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/14 Lead
Ian Broome 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Bloke on a Rope 08/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Got this on my 2nd go should have done it 1st time really but got a flash pump! Nice climbing though not as steep as some other lines.

with Henry
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Luke Owens 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good route

morganator 19/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stan Halstead
spragglerocks 18/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Jul/14 Lead RP
henry peter jenkins 17/Jul/14 Lead β
with luis bachini, emilio bachini
Hidden 17/Jul/14 Lead dog
MartinJWood 10/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Katy Banner
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Lead β
Emilysaladfingers ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

bit of a scary one bolt section but good!

Hidden ?/Jul/14 TR RP
david morse 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Megan, KT, markalmack
markalmack 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pebbles 26/Jun/14 Lead RP
with rachel
monkeyman79 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ben Reinch
Ian Broome 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Dan Jenkin 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Richmond
John Brayshaw 18/Jun/14 TR RP
with Dan
John Brayshaw 11/Jun/14 TR RP
with Dan
Laramadness 07/Jun/14 Lead RP
with RF
buzby78 30/May/14 Lead
with Jess
julesp 05/Sep/13 Lead β
with mike
emily_allen 16/Aug/13 Lead rpt
emily_allen 02/Aug/13 Lead rpt
coombsy ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Rich G
petekeron 31/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Barry Scott
ollyroberts 24/Jul/13 Lead β
with Jack
Jack00 24/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Olly
Ian Broome 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
davebowes 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt
emily_allen 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Bulls Crack 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Paul Figg 03/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/13 TR
mattwyles1 25/Jun/13 Lead RP

Silly slip os.

Dave Musgrove 23/Jun/13 Lead rpt

I thought this was a straightforward 6b when I first bolted it! Felt closer to 6c today - I'm getting too old for Kilnsey

with Paul Farrish, Keith Morgan
emily_allen 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jamesdyno 13/Jun/13 Lead β
chris_j_s 10/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with James McCartan
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
SMc 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jon G
Hidden 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
maria85 05/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Rachel
Ally Smith 04/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with GrantB
Dave Mayes ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Date's a guess

jesse rees ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/13 TR dog
oread 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/13 Lead
Hidden 09/May/13 -
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead dog
innes 03/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Kim M ?/May/13 Lead RP
with Nige
Sophieeee 25/Apr/13 TR
Rachel S 18/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Cal
robertmctague ??/2013 Lead RP

ages ago, never logged it

Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead RP
samrad 18/Aug/12 Lead β
with crad
Martin Haworth 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Dan Mckinley
Moondance 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
lithos 19/Jul/12 Lead β

as a warm up ! I found this ok - before being spanked on everything else !

with pete harris, Adam
jkarran 18/Jun/12 Lead
with Grant
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
jkarran 17/Jun/12 Lead
with Smith
Ally Smith 17/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Pete H
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
CragDog 02/Jun/12 Lead RP
zero six ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead β
Malcolm Bass ??/2012 Lead β
Bry 20/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with Simon
Bry 20/Aug/11 TR β
with Simon
jkarran 02/Aug/11 Lead

Not ideal as a warm up

with Grant
Peter Smith 17/Jul/11 Lead dnf
with Mick Leather
Alison2 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S

wish i'd led it...

a13x 10/Jul/11 TR O/S
steepstuff 18/Jun/11 -
with Rob
James Oakes 06/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 27/May/11 2nd dog
with Dan
Mowglee 22/May/11 Lead dog

Is this on the wall left of Quiet Flight?

with Ali
Mowglee 22/May/11 Lead RP
with Ali
Hidden 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead rpt
chris_j_s 07/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead dog
Andy Graham 11/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Niels Pampus, Simon Kimber
richgibson ??/2011 Lead O/S
with John
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
peewee2008 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Jack00 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
jkarran 06/Jul/10 Lead

Felt hard. Seems I need a proper warm-up to get going.

with Smith, Grant
GrantB 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S
James Oakes 06/Jul/10 Lead rpt

Warm up.

Ally Smith 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

With the long (crap) extension

marky 20/Jun/10 Lead β

Did new extension which makes it a good 30m 6c route albeit with a few rattly holds.

with Sharon
Hidden 15/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden ?/May/10 -
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
akhughes ??/2010 Lead O/S
marky 20/Sep/09 Lead β
with Sharon
Nik Jennings 10/Sep/09 Lead β
Tez29 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Guy
Wood for Trees 11/Aug/09 Lead β

glad to get the flash

with Oaksy and tez
leepip ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with steve ramsden
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead dog
James Oakes 29/Jul/09 Lead RP
Bill Lawrence 23/Jul/09 Lead RP
with alex mason
Alex Mason 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Is this the wall left of direct flight? Have done before but it was onsight then

with Billy Laurence
Matt Rowat 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie
Chazz 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Rowat, James Parkinson
Hidden 16/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Bennykr 16/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Huw
steve_biczyk 04/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Emma, Keith & Dave
Mattyk 02/Jul/09 Lead β


jfreeman 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
marky 14/Jun/09 Lead β


with Sharon
Oliver Branagan 11/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Liam D
Helen23 03/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Ben Hirst
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
duzinga 12/Oct/08 2nd dog
with Stu and Ewan
marky 25/Aug/08 Lead β
with Sharon
Sean_J ?/Jun/08 Lead β
betamonkey 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jonny Baker
gingerkate 23/May/08 2nd dog

Fell of twice, must return.

with I
RD 10/May/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May/08 Lead O/S
DJayB 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
chris2451 05/Apr/08 2nd dog
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
mattnuttall 25/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Brown 19/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/2005 Lead
with Unsure
Dave Musgrove ?/Jul/04 Lead β
with Viv
Hidden 20/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set