Rockfax Description
12m. Start as for Peak Technique but, from the ledge, rock onto the right arete and palm a way up this - better holds soon arrive. This was a bold ascent for its day and it still is. The escape route of a leap for the ledge to the right is not recommended. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic on-sight headgame up the right arete of the slab - easy, but committing. Swing left at the main break, then balance up the technical crux to get stood in the runnel (shallow cams), then the psychological crux reaching the obvious cam crack, before an arete romp to finish.

Ticklists: Selected county classics- mainly E4/5.

watson.b 06/Nov/17 2nd O/S

Must lead this

with nicky
08nbrierley 06/Nov/17 Lead RP
benj_d 05/May/17 TR

Fell on onsight lead then top roped first go. Too hot/sunny today really. Probably go back to redpoint some time

Hidden 05/May/17 TR
C coldwell-storry 16/Apr/17 Solo β
with Kris Hall, J Freeman, rob lay
AxelC 16/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Craig Silvie
Hugobristol 28/Oct/16 Lead RP

checked the moves and gear on a rope first. Would be a scary onsight but not too hard really.

with blaza1
blaza1 28/Oct/16 TR O/S
Bloke on a Rope 13/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Trust me to pick the hottest day of the trip to do a slab! 27 degrees! Wanted to do Peak Technique but that would have been completely taking the piss in the conditions, so did On the Verge instead .

Hidden 18/Aug/16 Lead G/U
Dervey 26/Oct/15 Lead dnf
with Liam
salix 24/May/15 Lead O/S

So pleased to get this. Laced the break but still didn't feel a lot of trust in the cams. Thankfully the rest was only scary and not too hard. Bit precarious to place upper cam, but oh so calming.

with Sergio
Hidden 23/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 04/Mar/15 TR O/S

Bottled the solo O/S. Must return once I get my lead-head back on

with Emily
stugreen75 20/Feb/15 Lead RP

Great fun route. Mostly in the head. Managed to get 5 pretty rock solid cams in the shallow break. Stuck to the slab which feels nicer than chickening out right.

stugreen75 12/Feb/15 TR β

On top rope clean before I finally chickened out blaming the damp conditions. Great fun though

Robbie_Phillips ??/2015 -
climbalive 05/Sep/14 Lead β
with mike norbury
Shea 17/Aug/14 Solo O/S


Hidden 22/Jul/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
nigel pearson 16/Nov/13 TR O/S

did it with a sore left knee.

with Robin
oliverk 30/Jun/13 TR
with Tim E, Dan
Hidden 30/Jun/13 TR
GraMc 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

might have coped out slightly early, not entirely sure but either way it was pretty harrowing!

DJayB 11/Nov/12 2nd rpt
le t 02/Sep/12 Solo dnf

went for the escape right

with ross
Peter Reynolds ?/Mar/11 Solo
Hidden 25/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Aug/10 2nd
mattyork2 25/Aug/10 TR
tomdude 15/May/10 TR O/S

first clean e4, on top rope

with oli
Hidden 07/May/10 Lead
Hidden 07/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
scott gibson ??/2010 -
pete87abs 23/Oct/09 2nd β
DJayB 23/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing! Very spicy!!!

mgeek 22/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Cant really claim full tick, as sh*t it and used flake on right at top of slab. My footwork sux!

with adam hughes
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Franco Cookson OLD ?/Jun/09 Solo O/S


buzby78 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Very scary crux high above the gear!

with Al
Hidden 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Ally Baba 14/Mar/09 Solo RP

quite boldish route.

with R.Phillips
redjerry ?/Nov/08 TR O/S
Skinny Kin 31/Jul/08 TR O/S

Very hairy top half of the route on the blank slab arete even on top rope. You could swing into the chimney or across the slab. My first E4 success even on a top rope. Great little climb.

with Ross
mshorter 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
ali_robb ?/Oct/07 Solo O/S
akhughes ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Greg B
Hidden 15/Nov/03 Lead O/S
gypsy3006 ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S

very nice route

Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Beardyman ??/2000 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Feb/99 Solo
with Al Willoner
Steve Crowe 15/Aug/98 Lead O/S


with KM
John Pickles ??/1998 TR β
JDC ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
gme 01/Jan/90 -
Andrew Nelson ??/1985 -
Hidden 03/Apr/83 TR
Hidden 11/Apr/82 TR
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
13 users have this on their wishlist
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 16
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set