Rockfax Description
III, 22km there and back, 1 day. A wonderful journey through some huge mountain scenery. There is minimal technical difficulty but you need to be confident front pointing when tackling the short crux section below the Col du Mont Maudit. The main challenge is keeping going at altitude and moving fast enough to have plenty of time for the descent.
Approach - From the Aiguille du Midi, descend the famous snow arête that makes up the east ridge, before turning back west to reach the Refuge des Cosmiques in 30 to 40 minutes, having passed under the beautiful South Face of the Midi.
1) From the Refuge des Cosmiques, cross the Col du Midi plateau and climb the Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face (page §§§). The route varies from year to year, often from month to month, but the line usually goes roughly from the bottom left of the face to the top right, reaching the northwest shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul in roughly 2 to 3 hours from the hut.
2) From the shoulder, continue towards the north face of Mont Maudit, descending slightly before beginning to move up again beneath some seracs on the left of the face. The line taken varies depending on conditions, but the route is usually bottom left to top right once again. Just below the Col du Mont Maudit is the crux step, which is roughly 40m of 45 degree snow. There is often a fixed line attached to an anchor at the top of the step, and an intermediate anchor half way up the slope; both can be used as belays.
3) Having negotiated the crux step, traverse southwards to the Col de la Brenva. The climb from here to the top of Mont Blanc is longer than it looks, and not as enjoyable as the Bosses Ridge on the Goûter Route. However, the scenery makes up for any tedium in the climbing and the route finding is non-existent (in good weather). Pass to the left of the Mur de la Côte rock step and then climb the snow slope above. Generally the terrain is low-angled (roughly 20 to 30 degrees) and straightforward.
4) The summit arrives suddenly and, after the long snow slope below, it is very welcome. The average ascent time is 5 to 7 hours from hut to summit.
Descent - Either reverse the route (the crux step below the Col du Mont Maudit can be abseiled in 2 x 20m abseils) or descend the Goûter Route. One thing to bear in mind is that many climbers don't wear a helmet on the Trois Monts Route but you will want one when descending from the Refuge du Goûter down to the Nid d'Aigle. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Gaining in popularity over the Gouter Ridge route for ascending Mont Blanc.

From the Cosmiques Hut up the normal route to the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, cross the Col Maudit and up the steep snow slope to the Col du Mt. Maudit (helmet!). Go up the NW Ridge towards the summit of Mont Maudit and descend the SW Ridge. Up the slopes of Mur de la Cote and to the summit. 5-7 hours to the summit. Descend via same route or traverse Mont Blanc via the Gouter Route.

R.Head and J Grange, A Orset and J Perrod 13/Aug/1863

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
williap 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Mission! Scary too. Hanging ladder started us off nicely.
with Jase
Mission! Scary too. Hanging ladder started us off nicely.
with Jase
Cam Bevan 5 Aug, 2018 Lead
Blackcountrybill 4 Aug, 2018 -
Hidden 3 Aug, 2018 -
oli_f92 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
philippoc93 1 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with oli_f92
with oli_f92
jasewilson ?Aug, 2018 -
philippoc93 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Tricky conditions on Maudit, thin on the colouir with a lot of rock fall
with Oli Flindall
Tricky conditions on Maudit, thin on the colouir with a lot of rock fall
with Oli Flindall
Mike Bovill 26 Jul, 2018 -
AdamDavies97 19 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Kenneth Davies
with Kenneth Davies
DJH 18 Jul, 2018 -
Ollieaxon 18 Jul, 2018 -
with DJH
with DJH
TheFasting 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Up in 7 hours, down to Gouter in 3 because partner felt unwell and didn't want to go back the same way. Then all the refuges were full, so we ended up walking the full way down to Les Houches in rain and thunder until we could call a taxi to take us to Chamonix. 24 hours on the move, 3995m of elevation loss in total. Fantastic route, enjoyed every step. WI1/WI2 ice on the crux, but with a bit of pulling on fixed ropes I only needed one axe. Loose rock nearly took me out from above, so watch out. Count on waiting a bit below the crux.
with Johan
Up in 7 hours, down to Gouter in 3 because partner felt unwell and didn't want to go back the same way. Then all the refuges were full, so we ended up walking the full way down to Les Houches in rain and thunder until we could call a taxi to take us to Chamonix. 24 hours on the move, 3995m of elevation loss in total. Fantastic route, enjoyed every step. WI1/WI2 ice on the crux, but with a bit of pulling on fixed ropes I only needed one axe. Loose rock nearly took me out from above, so watch out. Count on waiting a bit below the crux.
with Johan
ReubenKouidri 13 Jul, 2018 -
tradisrad 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led the crux, WI2 ice with blood everywhere. The route was essentially a death march, I would recommend prospective climbers do literally any other route in Chamonix.
with tghayne
Led the crux, WI2 ice with blood everywhere. The route was essentially a death march, I would recommend prospective climbers do literally any other route in Chamonix.
with tghayne
Al_Mac 12 Jul, 2018 - Camped on the Valle Blanche overnight for the first time and woke up to an amazing carpet of stars at 2am. The sunrise was amazing with so many colours. A lot colder on the summit than when doing the Royal Traverse two weeks earlier but at least there was a view!
with Robbie B
Camped on the Valle Blanche overnight for the first time and woke up to an amazing carpet of stars at 2am. The sunrise was amazing with so many colours. A lot colder on the summit than when doing the Royal Traverse two weeks earlier but at least there was a view!
with Robbie B
wilkinscl 12 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Katharine
with Katharine
Robbie Blease 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd Rubbish!!!! If long snow slogs to the high point of a glacier are your thing then this is your route. If someone had told me I had to go down 30 metres from the summit, I wouldn't have cared.
with Aly
Rubbish!!!! If long snow slogs to the high point of a glacier are your thing then this is your route. If someone had told me I had to go down 30 metres from the summit, I wouldn't have cared.
with Aly
Sam Maher 11 Jul, 2018 -
with Rob Davis
with Rob Davis
RobScarisbrick 11 Jul, 2018 - Set off from cosmiques at 2am. Summit at 8 and back to the hut 2pm. Was in between two groups so pretty much had each section to ourselves. Perfect weather and stunning scenery. Hadn’t bargained for the slog back up to the midi from the hut which took a lot longer than expected in the beating down sun
Set off from cosmiques at 2am. Summit at 8 and back to the hut 2pm. Was in between two groups so pretty much had each section to ourselves. Perfect weather and stunning scenery. Hadn’t bargained for the slog back up to the midi from the hut which took a lot longer than expected in the beating down sun
George.D 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd
AlexBush 8 Jul, 2018 -
with Oli, Gus
with Oli, Gus
TomAlford 5 Aug, 2017 Solo O/S Left shiver bivy on the Vallee Blanche at 1:30am, initially climbed behind some teams but overtook them by summit of Tacul, too warm - Maudit had obvious avalanche signs and the snow bridges were very weak, crux was lovely off a rope though. Summited just before dawn, had the summit to myself and descended through the crowds on Gouter. Great route, bad conditions
Left shiver bivy on the Vallee Blanche at 1:30am, initially climbed behind some teams but overtook them by summit of Tacul, too warm - Maudit had obvious avalanche signs and the snow bridges were very weak, crux was lovely off a rope though. Summited just before dawn, had the summit to myself and descended through the crowds on Gouter. Great route, bad conditions
JoeCoxson 30 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf 1:30am start, conditions on the N face of the Tacul were good, and we marched up in under 2hrs. After that, the high overnight winds had blown out any impresstion of a path, so in darkness and poor vis we broke a trail up through the towering seracs of the Maudit. At about 80m below the col in 10m visibility, we decided the clear skies we'd been forecast by morning weren't coming, so we threw the towel in; a shame because an hour later the clouds parted, but we weren't to know. Next time.
1:30am start, conditions on the N face of the Tacul were good, and we marched up in under 2hrs. After that, the high overnight winds had blown out any impresstion of a path, so in darkness and poor vis we broke a trail up through the towering seracs of the Maudit. At about 80m below the col in 10m visibility, we decided the clear skies we'd been forecast by morning weren't coming, so we threw the towel in; a shame because an hour later the clouds parted, but we weren't to know. Next time.
lukegorman 30 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf made a good decision to turn back as there was only a short good weather window before a storm that claimed the life of a climber we passed on the way down.
made a good decision to turn back as there was only a short good weather window before a storm that claimed the life of a climber we passed on the way down.
Christine 16 Jul, 2017 -
with rpinto
with rpinto
Matt Boyd 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Neil Dickson
with Neil Dickson
rpinto 16 Jul, 2017 - Summited in just under 5hrs in strong winds and whiteout. Descended via the gouter route.
Summited in just under 5hrs in strong winds and whiteout. Descended via the gouter route.
Camric 14 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S More technically difficult than the route description here and rockfax would suggest. Very lean winter and warm spring / summer means some exposed sections of ice. The fixed ropes were in place at the crux but was happy to have an extra few screws for an exposed traverse. Got the first cable car up to the midi and then just out and back again in about 10 hour to the Cosmique for the next where I enjoyed the most expensive night of not sleeping of my life. Glad we roped up for the return as Dad fell into a crevasse just below Cosmiques, managed to pull him out as only 2-3 m in. Very windy and cold on top.
with Toby Floyer
More technically difficult than the route description here and rockfax would suggest. Very lean winter and warm spring / summer means some exposed sections of ice. The fixed ropes were in place at the crux but was happy to have an extra few screws for an exposed traverse. Got the first cable car up to the midi and then just out and back again in about 10 hour to the Cosmique for the next where I enjoyed the most expensive night of not sleeping of my life. Glad we roped up for the return as Dad fell into a crevasse just below Cosmiques, managed to pull him out as only 2-3 m in. Very windy and cold on top.
with Toby Floyer
BenCollis 14 Jul, 2017 Solo Left cosmiques very late at 4:30am, summited at 9am. Really strong winds 40kmh and -10 degrees, so I was alone on the top. The crux pitch was very hard and icy, but I secured myself with a Prussik. Moved very fast without having to worry about ropes and crevasses were not a problem due to strong snow bridges.
Left cosmiques very late at 4:30am, summited at 9am. Really strong winds 40kmh and -10 degrees, so I was alone on the top. The crux pitch was very hard and icy, but I secured myself with a Prussik. Moved very fast without having to worry about ropes and crevasses were not a problem due to strong snow bridges.
DomTe 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd
R0BJ0N 2 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Kellie Grice, Dominic Teichmann
with Kellie Grice, Dominic Teichmann
James Gordon ?Jul, 2017 -
BarneyLoosemore 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd dnf Tried to do it in a day from the midi, unfortunately the window was too small. Made the decision to go back at Maudit. The right one as we almost missed the last cable car anyway.
with WGEvans
Tried to do it in a day from the midi, unfortunately the window was too small. Made the decision to go back at Maudit. The right one as we almost missed the last cable car anyway.
with WGEvans
WGEvans 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
alex.serban 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd rpt A nice traverse of MB. The crux on both Maudit and Tacul weren't in very good condition. rotten ice and fresh snow. Got caught in a storm just below the summit and were forced to spend the night at Vallot before continuing to Gouter the next day in high wind and wideout.
A nice traverse of MB. The crux on both Maudit and Tacul weren't in very good condition. rotten ice and fresh snow. Got caught in a storm just below the summit and were forced to spend the night at Vallot before continuing to Gouter the next day in high wind and wideout.
Rory89 25 Jun, 2017 -
chris m fisher 22 Jun, 2017 Solo A great long day (started at 5:30 from the Cosmiques shack). Very few others on the mountain and summit to myself made it feel quite special
A great long day (started at 5:30 from the Cosmiques shack). Very few others on the mountain and summit to myself made it feel quite special
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
bruce ??, 2017 -
Mark Brand 25 Sep, 2016 AltLd dnf Late season, no trail. Left at 2am from Cosmiques, got benighted after taking the wrong face of Maudit...
with Soeren
Late season, no trail. Left at 2am from Cosmiques, got benighted after taking the wrong face of Maudit...
with Soeren
rfleal 25 Aug, 2016 -
MassivePunter 23 Aug, 2016 - Got the first lift in the morning, saw Ueli Steck running down Mont Blanc as we headed up the final snow slope - said hello as he ran past! Got asked if we ran by a guide at the top because of how fast we'd got there, got caught in a thunderstorm on the way down and made the last lift - Totally awesome day.
Got the first lift in the morning, saw Ueli Steck running down Mont Blanc as we headed up the final snow slope - said hello as he ran past! Got asked if we ran by a guide at the top because of how fast we'd got there, got caught in a thunderstorm on the way down and made the last lift - Totally awesome day.
alan1234 23 Aug, 2016 -
Stickle Tarn 12 Aug, 2016 -
Scott Quinn 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S about 8 hours from the midi to summit and back at least 1 hour of this on the final snow arête (wasn't in a happy place sufferfest!)
about 8 hours from the midi to summit and back at least 1 hour of this on the final snow arête (wasn't in a happy place sufferfest!)
Tom.Priestley 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S 8hrs midi to midi, most of it spent pulling scott
8hrs midi to midi, most of it spent pulling scott
RuthW 11 Jul, 2016 - Left hut at 1am and arrived on summit just before 7am. Good conditions but pretty windy. Descent via gouter route
Left hut at 1am and arrived on summit just before 7am. Good conditions but pretty windy. Descent via gouter route
Hidden 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd
jhobbs 7 Jul, 2016 - In ascent, bivied at old cosmiques hut and set off at 1.15, arrived at summit at 9.15. Bit of a que at the crux below maudit. Conditions underfoot were perfect. Quite windy in final approach to summit. Awesome day
with Mark Haward
In ascent, bivied at old cosmiques hut and set off at 1.15, arrived at summit at 9.15. Bit of a que at the crux below maudit. Conditions underfoot were perfect. Quite windy in final approach to summit. Awesome day
with Mark Haward
anthonylewis 7 Jul, 2016 - In ascent. 6.5hrs to summit from cosmiques hut, great condition
In ascent. 6.5hrs to summit from cosmiques hut, great condition
Just Will 4 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Zoe Cockburn 28 Aug, 2015 - A long and brilliant day, with the summit to ourselves! Weather definitely felt a bit Scottish, perhaps it worked in our favour ;)
A long and brilliant day, with the summit to ourselves! Weather definitely felt a bit Scottish, perhaps it worked in our favour ;)
Tim_C7 27 Aug, 2015 -
with Oo
with Oo
Oo 27 Aug, 2015 - Deviated to top of Mont Maudit on the ascent.
Deviated to top of Mont Maudit on the ascent.
FelixPeterken 12 Jul, 2015 2nd Camped overnight on the glacier. Going over Mont modit was quite scary in the dark, not for the inexperienced without a guide.
with AndrewP
Camped overnight on the glacier. Going over Mont modit was quite scary in the dark, not for the inexperienced without a guide.
with AndrewP
AndrewP 12 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Heatwave conditions so some quite serious sections up and around back of Mont Maudit. Exhausting but beautiful.
with Sam Peterken, FelixPeterken
Heatwave conditions so some quite serious sections up and around back of Mont Maudit. Exhausting but beautiful.
with Sam Peterken, FelixPeterken
Jamie Johnston 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Hugo Scrimgeour
with Hugo Scrimgeour
olekemi 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Soloed most of it before roping up towards the end. Enjoyed the whole thing, and perhaps especially the views and landscape around us. ~9 hours from/to Cosmiques Hut.
with Ken B, Martin F
Soloed most of it before roping up towards the end. Enjoyed the whole thing, and perhaps especially the views and landscape around us. ~9 hours from/to Cosmiques Hut.
with Ken B, Martin F
tunnah 29 Jun, 2015 -
with CMoore
with CMoore
CMoore 29 Jun, 2015 -
with tunnah
with tunnah
joelevanschamonix 10 Apr, 2015 -
with Tim Oliver
with Tim Oliver
SkiMonkey2012 ??, 2015 Lead
marr.simon 16 Sep, 2014 AltLd 0145 departure from Cosmiques, 0745 summit... A long descent...
0145 departure from Cosmiques, 0745 summit... A long descent...
Jordangask 16 Sep, 2014 -
hp8g12 16 Sep, 2014 AltLd
leeoftroy ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S one axe and moved together a lot. More difficult/exposed than expected. Snow bridges collapsed, spinidrift on slopes. left hut 1.30 summit 7.30. With Ed.
one axe and moved together a lot. More difficult/exposed than expected. Snow bridges collapsed, spinidrift on slopes. left hut 1.30 summit 7.30. With Ed.
Hidden 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 8 Aug, 2014 -
Grant Fulton ?Aug, 2014 Solo 3hours 35minutes from Midi gate to summit, couple of hours on the way back.
3hours 35minutes from Midi gate to summit, couple of hours on the way back.
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Ly-Cilph 27 Sep, 2013 AltLd dnf Had to turn back due to bad weather :-/
with Till N
Had to turn back due to bad weather :-/
with Till N
John Procter 18 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 -
prwalker 11 Aug, 2013 -
with wupert
with wupert
Hidden 3 Aug, 2013 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
K Mckay 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Richard Mckay
with Richard Mckay
joedoherty 8 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Dave Holmes-Evans
with Dave Holmes-Evans
Adam Coles ?Jul, 2013 Lead And return
with Clare
And return
with Clare
Dave Searle ??, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Rockley 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S 5 1/2hrs from hut to summit Quite icy at top of maudit
with evyasb
5 1/2hrs from hut to summit Quite icy at top of maudit
with evyasb
Katherine Ross 9 Jul, 2012 2nd dnf Started the ascent of Mont Maudit but backed off due to bad snow conditions (avalanched 3 days later). Settled for summitting the Tacul.
with Becky H
Started the ascent of Mont Maudit but backed off due to bad snow conditions (avalanched 3 days later). Settled for summitting the Tacul.
with Becky H
Nigel Bond 4 Jul, 2012 Solo
with Bern Hardman
with Bern Hardman
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Mike Hood 23 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH ?Jun, 2012 -
Si ?Oct, 2011 AltLd Descent off Brenva. Previous attempt and turn around in bad weather a few hundred metres from the top in August 2010
with Nathan
Descent off Brenva. Previous attempt and turn around in bad weather a few hundred metres from the top in August 2010
with Nathan
Hidden 10 Sep, 2011 -
guernseydan ?Sep, 2011 -
with Duncan R
with Duncan R
Kris ?Sep, 2011 -
AlasdairM 31 Aug, 2011 - Perfect conditions, 8 hrs from the Aiguille du Midi back to the Cosmiques Hut
Perfect conditions, 8 hrs from the Aiguille du Midi back to the Cosmiques Hut
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 30 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 -
tompilgrem 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S 2am start. 9 am summit. 4 30 midi. Long day but well worth it, dawn light on blanc from col du maudit was impressive.
2am start. 9 am summit. 4 30 midi. Long day but well worth it, dawn light on blanc from col du maudit was impressive.
bobpilgrem 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd 2 AM start from cosmiques hut- summit at 9 AM.Back at Midi by 4:30- the final climb back to midi was hard !!Great route on a clear day- procession of head torches moving up at start was impressive. Maudit Col pitch a bottleneck if you leave to late-climbed on RHS next to fixed (snowed in) rope - felt secure using two tools and taking your time.
2 AM start from cosmiques hut- summit at 9 AM.Back at Midi by 4:30- the final climb back to midi was hard !!Great route on a clear day- procession of head torches moving up at start was impressive. Maudit Col pitch a bottleneck if you leave to late-climbed on RHS next to fixed (snowed in) rope - felt secure using two tools and taking your time.
sam duckworth ?Aug, 2011 2nd
cmars89 ?Aug, 2011 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 -
Jack Loftus 16 Jul, 2011 -
Cardi 16 Jul, 2011 -
with Ryan
with Ryan
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 -
knicos 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 1 Jul, 2011 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 2011 Lead
with Julian Williams
with Julian Williams
darcan ??, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2010 Lead
Hidden 15 Sep, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Sep, 2010 AltLd
norb 2 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
kelly_426 ?Sep, 2010 -
with Sasha Doyle
with Sasha Doyle
CWMulcahy 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf Reached Cote de Mur, approx 300m vertical from summit. Had to turn back due to partner's chest pains. In future would take the rightmost route on the climbing section of Maudit, to avoid the biffs, and bring two axes!
Reached Cote de Mur, approx 300m vertical from summit. Had to turn back due to partner's chest pains. In future would take the rightmost route on the climbing section of Maudit, to avoid the biffs, and bring two axes!
QuentinSu ?Aug, 2010 Solo O/S
IanC ?Aug, 2010 -
robinsi197 19 Jul, 2010 - My 50th birthday!
with Nick
My 50th birthday!
with Nick
thetradlad 19 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Lew Fraser, Brendan Edwards
with Lew Fraser, Brendan Edwards
Hidden 19 Jul, 2010 -
GiveHerHelen 12 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Jonny M
with Jonny M
Jonny M 12 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
DigitalSteak 1 Jul, 2010 -
liamo333 ?Jul, 2010 Sent O/S 4 days after arriving in Chamonix, totally unacclimatized.
with Rob Noone
4 days after arriving in Chamonix, totally unacclimatized.
with Rob Noone
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2010 -
with Emily
with Emily
tskelhon 29 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Max
with Max
Hidden 29 Jun, 2010 -
jamieevans ??, 2010 AltLd There and back 11.5 hours
There and back 11.5 hours
ig248 ??, 2010 -
mickd ??, 2010 -
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
vincentvega 10 Sep, 2009 Lead found this much easier than the Gouter route starting from the Tete Rouse last year. 4 hours cosmiques - summmit. 8h 50m comiques - Nid a'igle.
with danny robb
found this much easier than the Gouter route starting from the Tete Rouse last year. 4 hours cosmiques - summmit. 8h 50m comiques - Nid a'igle.
with danny robb
KatieG 7 Sep, 2009 -
YellowFellow ?Sep, 2009 - Started from the 3rd bin off Midi, luckily managed to catch the last one!
Started from the 3rd bin off Midi, luckily managed to catch the last one!
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
np134 21 Aug, 2009 -
with D. Price, C. Price
with D. Price, C. Price
Ben HW 20 Aug, 2009 Lead
with James Brownhill
with James Brownhill
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
lukehunt ?Aug, 2009 - Descent
Descent
darren hudson 30 Jul, 2009 AltLd Left Cosmiques hut late at 2.30am. Many guides and people inexperianced even in tying in and attaching crampons. Moved at steady pace but terrible back log at the final slope up to Col du Mont Maudit. As the sun rose, assessed the situation(about 40m ice climb)and decided to free climb to the side of the guided parties having difficulties with confidance and fatigue (clients not guides, obviously). Severe winds from the top all the way to summit of Mont Blanc. Reached summit around 7 hrs. Reversed route and again found difficulties descending Col du Mont Maudit due to parties ascending and descending, lots time wasted. Made steady progress to Aiguille du Midi cable car, dreading the final ascent up to the station, but found it ok when finally reached. Total time 14hrs. Very tired, some altitude affects and very happy to get back to tent and celebratory beer.
with David Ford
Left Cosmiques hut late at 2.30am. Many guides and people inexperianced even in tying in and attaching crampons. Moved at steady pace but terrible back log at the final slope up to Col du Mont Maudit. As the sun rose, assessed the situation(about 40m ice climb)and decided to free climb to the side of the guided parties having difficulties with confidance and fatigue (clients not guides, obviously). Severe winds from the top all the way to summit of Mont Blanc. Reached summit around 7 hrs. Reversed route and again found difficulties descending Col du Mont Maudit due to parties ascending and descending, lots time wasted. Made steady progress to Aiguille du Midi cable car, dreading the final ascent up to the station, but found it ok when finally reached. Total time 14hrs. Very tired, some altitude affects and very happy to get back to tent and celebratory beer.
with David Ford
Neil Adams 30 Jul, 2009 Solo
Hidden 27 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hannah V 16 Jul, 2009 -
with Hannah Burrows-Smith, Dan Whiter
with Hannah Burrows-Smith, Dan Whiter
markfairbank 4 Jul, 2009 Solo O/S
mathquirk 4 Jul, 2009 - Continued after climbing the Contamine-Grisolle on the Tacul Triangle.
with Petter Zachrisson
Continued after climbing the Contamine-Grisolle on the Tacul Triangle.
with Petter Zachrisson
stuart34 1 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with James Monypenny
with James Monypenny
mike4563 ?Jul, 2009 AltLd dnf Set off really early after bivvying because we were moving too slow the previous day. Then got stuck in a storm so had to retreat.
Set off really early after bivvying because we were moving too slow the previous day. Then got stuck in a storm so had to retreat.
Hidden 13 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Ben Briggs ?Jun, 2009 Solo Climbed 3 monts and skied n face.
with Brendan
Climbed 3 monts and skied n face.
with Brendan
Karl Wooffindin 28 Aug, 2008 - First party on the summit. Fantastic.
with Robin
First party on the summit. Fantastic.
with Robin
Hidden 18 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
DavidR 18 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with asaam
with asaam
SamStrong 5 Jul, 2008 AltLd dnf Snow to the knees with wind slabs. Windy
with Steve Windross
Snow to the knees with wind slabs. Windy
with Steve Windross
markfairbank 5 Jul, 2008 Solo dnf Moved together to the basin underneath the slopes of Mont Maudit, but increasing winds and alot of snow meant we turned around about 4.30am.
Moved together to the basin underneath the slopes of Mont Maudit, but increasing winds and alot of snow meant we turned around about 4.30am.
SteveMyatt 4 Jul, 2008 Solo dnf Turned around in the flanks of Mont Maudit; 80cm of fresh powder and steep slopes/cornices don't mix. . . . .shame.
with Mark Fairbank
Turned around in the flanks of Mont Maudit; 80cm of fresh powder and steep slopes/cornices don't mix. . . . .shame.
with Mark Fairbank
Hidden 1 Jul, 2008 2nd
Hidden 1 Jul, 2008 -
kevin k ?Jul, 2008 -
HarryB ?Jun, 2008 - 1st cable car up, descended via grand mulet.
1st cable car up, descended via grand mulet.
AndrewJenkins ??, 2008 -
Bruveris ?Sep, 2007 -
Rich A-Wilkes 29 Jul, 2007 Lead dnf
with Moniawl
with Moniawl
Hidden 29 Jul, 2007 -
Moniawl 29 Jul, 2007 2nd
Andy Clarke 29 Jul, 2007 Lead Superb views but bitterly cold. Winds at 60/70kph. Lost touch with our other party in traffic jam at steep snow slope on Maudit shoulder, then spent next hours doggedly trying to catch up. Bumped into them (literally - head down gasping) a few metres from summit. Father and son Baron reunited! Not well acclimatised, had to borrow down jacket to ward off hypothermia (thanks Stewart) and suffered badly with pain from ribs broken in December during race back for last 'phrique... but a fantastic day out.
with StewartD, JoeB
Superb views but bitterly cold. Winds at 60/70kph. Lost touch with our other party in traffic jam at steep snow slope on Maudit shoulder, then spent next hours doggedly trying to catch up. Bumped into them (literally - head down gasping) a few metres from summit. Father and son Baron reunited! Not well acclimatised, had to borrow down jacket to ward off hypothermia (thanks Stewart) and suffered badly with pain from ribs broken in December during race back for last 'phrique... but a fantastic day out.
with StewartD, JoeB
will_lake 20 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Chris Reay
with Chris Reay
Hidden 15 Jul, 2007 AltLd
IanJackson 15 Jul, 2007 Solo O/S First on the route. Very icy (Scot III max) Got to summit for Sunrise. Descended Gouter route, which is shit..
First on the route. Very icy (Scot III max) Got to summit for Sunrise. Descended Gouter route, which is shit..
Bristoldave 15 Jul, 2007 -
with long
with long
Robertspd2 ?Aug, 2006 - Ascent of 3 monts route following bad weather on Gouter route
Ascent of 3 monts route following bad weather on Gouter route
dshortt 27 Jul, 2006 -
with Sam Shortt
with Sam Shortt
Hidden 18 Jul, 2006 Solo
Somerset swede basher 10 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Rich Siddle
with Rich Siddle
djking1983 3 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2006 -
Smudge03 3 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Also James Fry, Dave King and Tim Clark
Also James Fry, Dave King and Tim Clark
dancurrie ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Nick Johnson
with Nick Johnson
John HW ?Jul, 2006 AltLd Camped on Mer de Glace taught glacier skills and drills, ice axe arrests etc. set off up route after 2 days of training. Weather pants turned around on mont maudit due to conditions.
with Cath, Tony and Friends
Camped on Mer de Glace taught glacier skills and drills, ice axe arrests etc. set off up route after 2 days of training. Weather pants turned around on mont maudit due to conditions.
with Cath, Tony and Friends
NickST ?Jul, 2006 -
with Greg Grace, Sean Jacobs, Martin Dixon
with Greg Grace, Sean Jacobs, Martin Dixon
dmoir ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
JonHarvey ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S great to have stood on top of this awesome mountain! however ,, was extremely busy, and steep section on Maudit was dangerously over crowded! people very impatient to wait for others to climb it before they start is probably the cause of accidents!! Anyway! ,,, bivvied in Midi station started at 1, summit 9 ish , decended via Gouter Ridge, good long slog of a day!
with Michael Maben
great to have stood on top of this awesome mountain! however ,, was extremely busy, and steep section on Maudit was dangerously over crowded! people very impatient to wait for others to climb it before they start is probably the cause of accidents!! Anyway! ,,, bivvied in Midi station started at 1, summit 9 ish , decended via Gouter Ridge, good long slog of a day!
with Michael Maben
Hidden 16 Jun, 2006 2nd dnf
stevomcd 20 Apr, 2006 2nd O/S (Late) winter ascent from the Cosmiques hut. Left hut 2am, reached summit 1pm. Tough icy conditions on Mont Maudit. Carried snowshoes but barely used. In crampons virtually all the way up. Descent by snowboard via Grands Mulets route.
with Neil McNab, Damo
(Late) winter ascent from the Cosmiques hut. Left hut 2am, reached summit 1pm. Tough icy conditions on Mont Maudit. Carried snowshoes but barely used. In crampons virtually all the way up. Descent by snowboard via Grands Mulets route.
with Neil McNab, Damo
jam_rich ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
JiveWeasel 8 Sep, 2005 -
Mrs Weasel 8 Sep, 2005 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 -
kleinej ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Ascended Gouter, descended via Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc de Tacul.
with Matt, paddygoodwin
Ascended Gouter, descended via Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc de Tacul.
with Matt, paddygoodwin
Stefan ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Great day out in fab weather. Unfortunately missed out on Mt Maudit due to Pete suffering from the altitude.
with Pete Jenkins
Great day out in fab weather. Unfortunately missed out on Mt Maudit due to Pete suffering from the altitude.
with Pete Jenkins
paddygoodwin ?Aug, 2005 2nd
with kleinej
with kleinej
Will Gordon ?Aug, 2005 Lead Turned back 30 mins from summit due to onset of AMS, Andrew and Phil went on to summit.
with Andrew Melvin, Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson
Turned back 30 mins from summit due to onset of AMS, Andrew and Phil went on to summit.
with Andrew Melvin, Phil Nelson, Rob Gleeson
Hidden ?Jul, 2005 -
fizzy_elephant ?Jun, 2005 - Went to the summits on the way up, descended the gouter route. Would recommend doing the summits on the way back though. We were off up first and then stuck in a line waiting for the col of Maudit trying to decide if we were going to have to catch a bloke pointy end first.
with Rob Williams
Went to the summits on the way up, descended the gouter route. Would recommend doing the summits on the way back though. We were off up first and then stuck in a line waiting for the col of Maudit trying to decide if we were going to have to catch a bloke pointy end first.
with Rob Williams
Yyonnx 10 Sep, 2004 - The route was better than the normal route, felt more like climbing something. I was in poor shape, had a very cold night camped on the Col. Don't know if it was that or poorly acclimatized but I felt like I had lead weights for shoes, certainly the slowest of the three, Mike and Jeroen having to tug me along. Jeroen skied down from the summit.
The route was better than the normal route, felt more like climbing something. I was in poor shape, had a very cold night camped on the Col. Don't know if it was that or poorly acclimatized but I felt like I had lead weights for shoes, certainly the slowest of the three, Mike and Jeroen having to tug me along. Jeroen skied down from the summit.
MoWalker3 1 Aug, 2004 -
with Dave
with Dave
kevburr 31 Jul, 2004 2nd O/S
with Sandy Allan
with Sandy Allan
Stabeemer ?Jul, 2004 -
rich_greeny ?Jul, 2004 2nd Guided ascent.
Guided ascent.
featuresforfeet ?Jul, 2004 -
Jon Pilling ?Sep, 2003 2nd O/S
with steve prescott
with steve prescott
Taylj1 ?Aug, 2003 -
with George
with George
BigHell 18 Jul, 2003 - This was never my idea,it was my mate Gary's but muggins here ended up doing it. The second day being a 14 hour slog with a decent via the Gouter standing on the summit of Mont Blanc was an experience never to be forgotten .
with Azhi Michel Bordet
This was never my idea,it was my mate Gary's but muggins here ended up doing it. The second day being a 14 hour slog with a decent via the Gouter standing on the summit of Mont Blanc was an experience never to be forgotten .
with Azhi Michel Bordet
edek_w ?Jul, 2003 -
Stuart Johnston ?Jun, 2003 Lead
andyinglis ?Jun, 2003 -
with Tom Dunstan, ruth gibson
with Tom Dunstan, ruth gibson
joe king ?Jun, 2003 -
with steve petit
with steve petit
Tarquin ??, 2003 -
Luke Brooks ??, 2003 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
t p hubbard ?Aug, 1999 -
cem ?Jun, 1999 -
with Jerry Boyd
with Jerry Boyd
stokesrees ??, 1997 AltLd
with Asmus Norveslet
with Asmus Norveslet
Dom Goodwin 1 Aug, 1996 -
with Peter
with Peter
Daniel Wrightson ?Jul, 1996 -
with Stefano Rensi
with Stefano Rensi
Hidden ??, 1996 -
kristian 12 Aug, 1993 -
chopin-smith 30 Jun, 1993 -
Pete_Frost ?Jul, 1990 - Climbed with Luc and Francois Ringeisen. Bizarre summit experience - someone had built an igloo and planted a plastic cactus outside it!
with Luc Percival
Climbed with Luc and Francois Ringeisen. Bizarre summit experience - someone had built an igloo and planted a plastic cactus outside it!
with Luc Percival
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1990 2nd
with Andy R.
with Andy R.
garywalker147 ??, 1986 Solo
Neil McA 15 Aug, 1981 AltLd First alpine route was the south face of the Midi the previous day. Then we got excited and did this. Lots of learning took place! We didn't have sun-cream (why would you need sun cream on a snowy mountain?) and the puss filled sun blisters on Steve's cheeks were the size of half eggs. Amazing day out as a start to an alpine career.
with Steve Hartland
First alpine route was the south face of the Midi the previous day. Then we got excited and did this. Lots of learning took place! We didn't have sun-cream (why would you need sun cream on a snowy mountain?) and the puss filled sun blisters on Steve's cheeks were the size of half eggs. Amazing day out as a start to an alpine career.
with Steve Hartland
Hidden ?Sep, 1979 -
bobelvedere 7 Aug, 1979 AltLd
with Lene Vestergaard
with Lene Vestergaard
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Voting
High AD-
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Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set