Rockfax Description
The long thin crack passing left of the massive perched block has a short hard crux section through the bulge. Make sure you don't put too much trust in the old pegs! © Rockfax

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Hidden 23/Jun 2nd
Cake 23/Jun Lead O/S

Peg is bendy, but big nuts below it are bomber. Really nice route. I thought it was close to E2

with Matt
Lessworkmoreclimbing 23/Apr 2nd

Good gear

with Kev
The Reaper 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
David Kay 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Catherine Elliot
Hidden 13/Sep/15 Lead
Andrew Sloan 30/May/15 Lead rpt

I would give the crux 5b rather than 5c. This time I didn't bother stopping to look for non existent protection above the crux move. Keep on going for a good 10ft before anything useful presents itself!

with John Brannock
Brannock 10/May/15 Lead O/S
bigdrew 04/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
adi bryant 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Good gear can be found just under the unclippable peg.

Graeme Hammond 25/Jun/14 2nd rpt

seemed quite straight forward this time, good route.

Jim Slater 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Spicy moves above the peg, good route.

Hidden 31/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt
ashtond6 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

amazing crux sequence !

alp79 08/Sep/13 2nd
Deezel65 05/May/13 2nd O/S

Steady at the grade except for the crux moves to get above the peg, about 3 quick and cool and nervy moves - great route

with John Ganley
Andrew Sloan 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, protection a bit sparse above crux.

Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
Martin Haworth 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Tony
cragtyke 12/May/12 2nd
with john g
Hidden 23/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Sep/11 2nd rpt
domskezz ?/Sep/11 Lead

Keep your cake hole shut Simon.

with Si
Hidden 19/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 07/Nov/10 AltLd
masa-alpin 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

First Extreme after an almost month break from any exercise. Yet I cruised it to my surprise and joy.

with Yvonne
Ketu 08/May/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/May/10 Lead O/S

An Excellent climb, quick-draw wouldn't fit through the flat peg which moved anyway so made do with the gear below and a longer run out and more buzz! Felt tough at the grade overall though perhaps only 5b?

with Rob
cymjt ??/2010 -
Different Steve 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Carol Fowles, Steve Gray
Hidden 13/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Sankey 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Luke
Dan Lane 19/Sep/09 2nd O/S

lower section is possibly loose, crux is nice but hard.

with Rick Gibbon
Hidden 17/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/09 Lead
stuckonarock 20/Jul/08 2nd dog
with Matthew
Hardonicus 04/Jul/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/May/08 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
cem 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Didn't have a guidebook with us but decided it looked a good line & went for it

with David T
Brown 03/Jul/07 TR O/S

on shunt in rain

martroberts 02/Sep/96 Lead O/S
Roget 25/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with chris jones, Jonathan T
Hidden 16/Sep/90 2nd
Paul Ha ??/1989 Lead

top end E1, large flake always gives me the jitters, Currently (2017) a tawny owl nest behind it.

Stoney Boy ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Colin Winfield, Phil Cundy
Hidden 22/Oct/83 2nd
charlesmfrench 10/Feb/82 2nd O/S
with Ian Milne
Tom V ??/1978 -
Hidden 08/Sep/69 2nd
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 19
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set