Climbs 163
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 322m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Captain Ethical on the bold initial arete © nick willis

Crag features

Esoteric is the best adjective to use for Agden. The cliff isn't composed of gritstone but a coal measures sandstone formed by a landslip in the geologically recent past, which accounts for the blocky, loose and unweathered nature of much of the cliff. On the plus side, the setting is sublime and the cliff is almost always quiet. There are over 100 recorded climbs here but many of them are poor; loose, vegetated or downright dangerous. We have included a selection of the best and most popular. The routes have a big feel, which makes a nice change from much of the climbing on offer in the Peak, though be warned that you WILL encounter vegetation and dubious rock - so come prepared - some care is required to climb safely here.

Approach notes

Agden is close to the hustle and bustle of Sheffield, just northwest of High Bradfield. Follow the minor road of Brown House Lane north out of High Bradfield keeping left at the only junction. A short distance after this is a narrow lane on the left with restricted roadside parking - try to get as close to the wall as possible. 

Follow the lane round the top of a steep-sided valley and down through the woods to locate the right-hand end of the crag up in the trees on the right - 5 minutes from the car. A right branching path that runs along the top of the cliff is a good option for getting to the far reaches of the crag (Great Wall, The Whittler etc) more quickly, descending a wide grassy gully located just before the point where a fence with a stile cuts across the path.

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
More Guidebooks:
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005)

Out of print:
Although the crag is a bit on the overgrown side and it's chossy on top it's a really nice quiet place to climb. It could do with a clean, a bit more traffic, and a few more belay stakes at the top to simplify things a bit but with a bit of care it's a great place to climb. One other thing to note is that it's sandstone not grit and stated above.
gethin_allen - 04/Sep/10
First visit to Agden Rocher today on a baking hot sunday. What a great idea is what to come here! I can only imagine how busy the more popular peak edges would have been but we saw only two other teams here all day. The trees provided a great amount of shade at the base of the crag and we got some quality routes done. Enjoyed the Whittler quite a lot. Will be making a return trip.
tom290483 - 23/May/10
The unstable section at the right hand end of the crag is now rather more stable than it was, as the hanging block of death is now on the ground at the bottom! The remaining rock looks reasonably sound, but will need a while to settle down...
Simon Caldwell - 07/Nov/09
I must defend the crag from this unwarranted attack! OK, maybe not entirely unwarranted, the trees can be a pain, and the vegetation could do with some controlling (just more people climbing here would be enough). But in all the times I've climbed here I've never had an trouble with green rock, and that's at all times of year from mid=summer to mid-winter. The unstable section at the right is the result of a rockfall in the mid 70s. As long as you avoid the obvious hanging block of death, it's all perfectly climbable, and even the hanging block is probably more sturdy that it looks, it's lasted over 30 years so far! The New Foggy Dew is a particularly fine route in that area. The main issue is lack of traffic. In all the times I've been there in the last 4 or 5 years, we've never seen more than one other team - and usually we have it to ourselves. So stop dissing the crag, you'll put people of going there!
Simon Caldwell - 26/Oct/09
I write this almost as a crag obituary.In the early seventies we climbed five or six times a year at this crag. Yes it was a little loose in places and the rock a little friable. However the crag caught the sun and in winter could be a nice place to climb.I have visited today on a dry October day and find the crag all but overgrown, green, slippery, very loose and in the main unclimbable. The crag is not beyond hope but the main problem is the amount of tree growth on the crag. As most of the trees causing the green rock are either Oaks or old Yew I cannot see them being cut. The right hand end of the crag has a very unstable section which should be avoided for safety reasons. As mentioned the crag is not beyond hope. If more people climbed at Agden, holds cleaned and there was some general tidying up ( Under direction of the correct authority)the crag may still be a lovely place to go with nice views and sunny aspect.Many of the belay stakes at the top of the crag are still servicable but the top of the routes are very overgrown. There are still one or two clean and worthwhile routes White Rose Flake still looks clean. However even the classic campsite crack is in need of gardening and would not currently rate its two stars. I am sorry to say I walked away from this crag and went to the pub instead.A sad day as many of my young climbing days were spent here.
Marcus Tierney - 23/Oct/09
A somewhat forgotten crag probably due to some access problems in the past. A helmet is a must as there is loose rock especially on the tops. Worth a visit and the crag has nice views. Do not expect perfect rock ! Not a place for families at the bottom of the crag.
Marcus Tierney - 22/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Saints' Wall
2 St. John
-
VS 4b 1
3 Brown Cow VS 4c  
4 St. Peter
-
S 4a 3
5 St. George
-
S 4a 1
6 St. Oliver
-
HS 4a 1
7 Black Corner and Flake HS 4b 2
8 Black Wall
-
VS 4b 2
9 Black Wall Direct VS 5a  
10 Black Wall Right-hand S 4a 1
  Great Wall
12 The Snip E2 5b 9
13 Jaffa E1 5b 18
14 Terrace Traverse
-
S 4a 3
15 Yewberry Groove
-
HS 1
16 Ardua E1 5b * 25
17 Hit and Run Driver
-
E3 5c * 3
18 Insurrection VS 5a 1
19 Rescue Route VS 1
20 S.O.S. VS 4b * 84
21 The Great Wall Traverse VS 4c 3
22 Speak Easy
-
E3 5c 2
23 Monster Munch E4 6a * 6
24 Asteris E1 5c ** 66
25 Conjunctus Viribus E1 5b ** 80
26 Limbus Fatuorum HVS 5a 1
27 Ignis Fatuus E3 5c 10
28 Great Wall Crossing E2 5c **  
29 Ocydroma
-
E3 5b 1
30 Harry the Dog Tosser
-
E1 5b 1
31 May Climb
-
S 4a 1
  S.C.A.C. Wall
33 Chauv's Last Stand
-
VS 4b 3
34 Hedony
-
HS 4a 3
35 Minsk
-
HS 4a 5
36 Artist's Arête
-
S 4a 5
37 Still Life
-
HS 4a 5
38 Tiptoe
-
VS 4b 3
39 Deceptive Crack
-
S 4a 7
40 Hollow Victory
-
E1 5a 1
41 Chicken Silly Hot
-
HVS 5b 1
42 Bull Crack
-
VS 4b 3
43 Little John
-
S 4a 4
44 Mollie's Climb Direct Finish
-
VS 4b 1
45 Mollie's Climb
-
S 4a 4
46 The Wall End
-
VS 4c 1
47 Belgian Blue E1 5a *  
  The Whittler
49 Chicken Run
-
VS 5a 4
50 Chicken Wall
-
VS 4c 6
51 Chains
-
HVS 5b 4
52 Lundy High
-
E1 5b 2
53 Schizont
-
VS 4c 1
54 Scratching Around
-
E2 5c 2
55 The Flying Dutchman
-
VS 4a 3
56 Twentyman's Terror
-
HS 4a 9
57 Double Shuffle
-
HS 4a 9
Climb name Grade
58 Three Pitch Climb
-
S 4a 6
59 Pollux E1 5b ** 115
60 Wheat Thin E4 6a * 5
61 Castor E1 5c ** 36
62 The Tittler
-
HVS 4c 2
63 The Whittler VS 4c ** 160
64 Gordon's Climb VS 4c 9
65 Lemon Squeezy
-
HVS 5b 7
66 Briggs' and Titterton's HVS 5b * 99
67 Titter Ye not E2 5c *  
68 The Avenue
-
E2 5c 3
69 Spring Lamb Dopiazza
-
VS 4c 14
70 Cock o' the North S 4a 18
  Campsite Crack
72 Harlequinade
-
VD 3
73 Farmers Blonde HVS 5a *  
74 Nill
-
VS 4a 1
75 Tsumami HVS 5a  
76 Min-Arête
-
E1 5b 1
77 The Gatepost
-
VD 4
78 Jalfrezee Jug Fest
-
S 4a 1
79 Begum Behar
-
VS 5a 1
80 Mike's Route HVS 5a 3
81 Gemini VS 4c 9
82 Campsite Crack S 4a ** 173
83 Indirect Finish
-
E1 5b 5
84 Campsite Capers VS 5a * 2
85 Paul's Arête Start
-
E1 5b 4
86 Scouting for Boys E3 5c * 6
87 David's Other Start
-
E2 5c 1
88 Indirect Start S 4a 5
89 Armstrong's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 3
90 Libra
-
HVS 4c 4
91 Man of God VS 4b * 25
92 Artifax Arête E3 5c * 6
93 Are We There Yet
-
E4 6a *  
94 Dreams by the Sea
-
E2 5c * 2
95 Bostonian Direct
-
HS 4b 1
96 Bostonian
-
S 4a  
97 Crumbler
-
E1 5a 1
98 Gimli
-
HVS 5a 2
99 Irish Dexter E2 5c  
  Oak Tree Wall Area
101 Bogey's Beacon
-
S 4a 2
102 Rowan Tree Crack
-
VD 3
103 Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like This
-
VD 4
104 Straight Crack
-
D 5
105 Jackdaw Crack
-
VD 4
106 Flaming 'ard
-
E1 5b 1
107 Flamingo Wall HVS 5a * 35
108 Oak Tree Walk VS 4b * 154
109 E.N. 24 VS 5a 25
110 Hanging Garden Wall S 4a 10
111 Dam It HVS 5a * 1
112 Scarecliffe
-
E3 5c 1
113 Jack o Lantern E1 5b 1
Climb name Grade
  Wailing Wall Area
115 Taurus VS 4c 5
116 Koh-i-Noor HVS 5a * 24
117 The Resurrection E2 5b * 15
118 Extra Tasty E4 6a 2
119 Derision S 4a 10
120 Filth HVD 4a 37
121 Bianco VS 4b * 124
122 Martini Crack VS 4b * 27
123 Martini VS 4b * 88
124 White Rose Flake VS 4c * 71
125 Numenorean VS 4c * 9
126 Numenorean Direct E1 5b 1
127 Painter's Climb S 4a 16
128 The Nags Head E1 5b 1
129 Leaning Block Wall
-
VS 4c 7
130 Lemon Entry
-
VS 4c 2
131 Baker Street VS 4c * 37
132 Aaron VS 4c 8
133 Scarred Climb HS 4a * 72
134 Jericho Wall HS 4a 47
135 Fall of Jericho
-
E2 5b 1
136 Then Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
137 Pie and a Pint HVS 5a 1
138 Q.E.D.
-
S 4a 6
139 Bradfield Arête
-
S 4a 6
140 Grey Wall VS 4b 22
141 Funeral Crack S 4a * 16
142 Death-Throes in the Hedgerows
-
E1 5c 3
143 Aberration HVS 5a * 26
144 Oak Tree Saunter VD 5
145 Disappointment
-
VD 10
146 Double De-Clutch HVS 5a * 39
147 Narrow Minded
-
E1 5c 2
  Right-hand Walls
149 Hagg S 4a 7
150 Savoury Crunch
-
HVS 5a 2
151 Fourth Apostle
-
VS 4b 2
152 Hey Jude
-
E2 5b 2
153 Judas
-
VS 4c 3
154 Iceni VS 4c 6
155 Boadicea's Wall S 4b 3
156 Agden Arête S 4b 13
157 Tartan Slab VS 4c * 34
158 Pyrology
-
VS 4b 14
159 Catherine
-
VS 4c 2
160 Protozoan HS 4a 16
161 Deadnettle Crack S 4a * 32
162 Sandyman
-
E2 5c 1
163 The Bits With Hairs On
-
HVS 5b * 11
164 Demolition
-
VS 4a 9
165 The New Foggy Dew S 4a 2
166 The Brand New Foggy Dew
-
VS 4b 1
167 Tarantula
-
VS 4b 9
168 Arachnid Cracks
-
HS 4a 12
169 Square Chimney
-
VD 18
170 Hypotenuse Wall
-
VD 14
171 Little X VS 4b 1

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