Climbs 161
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 312m a.s.l
Faces SW

Captain Ethical on the bold initial arete © nick willis

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
More Guidebooks:
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005)

Out of print:
Although the crag is a bit on the overgrown side and it's chossy on top it's a really nice quiet place to climb. It could do with a clean, a bit more traffic, and a few more belay stakes at the top to simplify things a bit but with a bit of care it's a great place to climb. One other thing to note is that it's sandstone not grit and stated above.
gethin_allen - 04/Sep/10
First visit to Agden Rocher today on a baking hot sunday. What a great idea is what to come here! I can only imagine how busy the more popular peak edges would have been but we saw only two other teams here all day. The trees provided a great amount of shade at the base of the crag and we got some quality routes done. Enjoyed the Whittler quite a lot. Will be making a return trip.
tom290483 - 23/May/10
The unstable section at the right hand end of the crag is now rather more stable than it was, as the hanging block of death is now on the ground at the bottom! The remaining rock looks reasonably sound, but will need a while to settle down...
Simon Caldwell - 07/Nov/09
I must defend the crag from this unwarranted attack! OK, maybe not entirely unwarranted, the trees can be a pain, and the vegetation could do with some controlling (just more people climbing here would be enough). But in all the times I've climbed here I've never had an trouble with green rock, and that's at all times of year from mid=summer to mid-winter. The unstable section at the right is the result of a rockfall in the mid 70s. As long as you avoid the obvious hanging block of death, it's all perfectly climbable, and even the hanging block is probably more sturdy that it looks, it's lasted over 30 years so far! The New Foggy Dew is a particularly fine route in that area. The main issue is lack of traffic. In all the times I've been there in the last 4 or 5 years, we've never seen more than one other team - and usually we have it to ourselves. So stop dissing the crag, you'll put people of going there!
Simon Caldwell - 26/Oct/09
I write this almost as a crag obituary.In the early seventies we climbed five or six times a year at this crag. Yes it was a little loose in places and the rock a little friable. However the crag caught the sun and in winter could be a nice place to climb.I have visited today on a dry October day and find the crag all but overgrown, green, slippery, very loose and in the main unclimbable. The crag is not beyond hope but the main problem is the amount of tree growth on the crag. As most of the trees causing the green rock are either Oaks or old Yew I cannot see them being cut. The right hand end of the crag has a very unstable section which should be avoided for safety reasons. As mentioned the crag is not beyond hope. If more people climbed at Agden, holds cleaned and there was some general tidying up ( Under direction of the correct authority)the crag may still be a lovely place to go with nice views and sunny aspect.Many of the belay stakes at the top of the crag are still servicable but the top of the routes are very overgrown. There are still one or two clean and worthwhile routes White Rose Flake still looks clean. However even the classic campsite crack is in need of gardening and would not currently rate its two stars. I am sorry to say I walked away from this crag and went to the pub instead.A sad day as many of my young climbing days were spent here.
Marcus Tierney - 23/Oct/09
A somewhat forgotten crag probably due to some access problems in the past. A helmet is a must as there is loose rock especially on the tops. Worth a visit and the crag has nice views. Do not expect perfect rock ! Not a place for families at the bottom of the crag.
Marcus Tierney - 22/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Deadnettle Crack Area
2 Hypotenuse Wall
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VD 11
3 Square Chimney
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VD 16
4 Arachnid Cracks
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HS 4a 7
5 Tarantula
-
VS 4b 7
6 The New Foggy Dew S 4a 2
7 The Bits With Hairs On
-
HVS 5b * 9
8 Demolition
-
VS 4a 4
9 Sandyman
-
E2 5c 1
  Right-hand Walls
11 Deadnettle Crack S 4a * 25
12 Protozoan HS 4a 13
13 Pyrology
-
VS 4b 6
14 Catherine
-
VS 4c  
15 Tartan Slab VS 4c * 29
16 Agden Arete S 4b 12
17 Boadicea's Wall S 4b 1
18 Iceni VS 4c 3
19 Judas
-
VS 4c 1
20 Hey Jude
-
E2 5b 1
21 Fourth Apostle
-
VS 4b 1
22 Savoury Crunch
-
HVS 5a 1
23 Hagg S 4a 6
  Wailing Wall Area
25 Narrow Minded
-
E1 5c 1
26 Double De-Clutch HVS 5a * 28
27 Disappointment
-
VD 7
28 Oak Tree Saunter VD 3
29 Aberration HVS 5a * 21
30 Death-Throes in the Hedgerows
-
E1 5c 2
31 Funeral Crack S 4a * 7
32 Grey Wall VS 4b 19
33 Bradfield Arete
-
S 4a 4
34 Q.E.D.
-
S 4a 3
35 Then Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
36 Fall of Jericho
-
E2 5b 1
37 Jericho Wall HS 4a 32
38 Scarred Climb HS 4a * 64
39 Aaron VS 4c 5
40 Baker Street VS 4c * 28
41 Lemon Entry
-
VS 4c 1
42 Leaning Block Wall
-
VS 4c 5
43 Painter's Climb S 4a 12
44 The Nags Head E1 5b 1
45 Pie and a Pint HVS 5a 1
46 Numenorean VS 4c * 6
47 Numenorean Direct E1 5b  
48 White Rose Flake VS 4c * 62
49 Martini VS 4b * 77
50 Martini Crack VS 4b * 21
51 Bianco VS 4b * 96
52 Filth HVD 4a 26
53 Derision S 4a 7
54 Extra Tasty E4 6a 2
55 The Resurrection E2 5b * 12
56 Koh-i-Noor HVS 5a * 21
57 Taurus VS 4c 2
  Oak Tree Wall Area
59 Scarecliffe
-
E3 5c 1
60 Dam It HVS 5a *  
61 Jack o Lantern E1 5b  
62 Hanging Garden Wall S 4a 6
63 Little X VS 4b  
64 E.N. 24 VS 5a 23
65 Oak Tree Walk VS 4b * 114
66 Flamingo Wall HVS 5a * 26
67 Flaming 'ard
-
E1 5b 1
68 Jackdaw Crack
-
VD 4
69 Straight Crack
-
D 5
70 Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like This
-
VD 2
71 Rowan Tree Crack
-
VD 3
72 Bogey's Beacon
-
S 4a 2
  Campsite Crack
74 Gimli
-
HVS 5a 1
75 Irish Dexter E2 5c  
76 Crumbler
-
E1 5a 1
77 Bostonian
-
S 4a  
78 Bostonian Direct
-
HS 4b 1
79 Dreams by the Sea
-
E2 5c * 1
80 Are We There Yet
-
E4 6a *  
81 Artifax Arête E3 5c * 5
82 Man of God VS 4b * 21
83 Libra
-
HVS 4c 2
84 Armstrong's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 2
85 Scouting For Boys E3 5c * 6
86 Campsite Crack S 4a ** 139
87 Paul's Arête Start
-
E1 5b 2
88 David's Other Start
-
E2 5c 1
89 Indirect Start S 4a 4
90 Indirect Finish
-
E1 5b 3
91 Gemini VS 4c 8
92 Mike's Route HVS 5a 3
93 Begum Behar
-
VS 5a 1
94 Jalfrezee Jug Fest
-
S 4a 1
95 The Gatepost
-
VD 1
96 Min-Arête
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E1 5b 1
97 Tsumami HVS 5a  
98 Nill
-
VS 4a  
99 Harlequinade
-
VD 3
100 Farmers Blonde HVS 5a *  
  The Whittler
102 Cock o' the North S 4a 14
103 Spring Lamb Dopiazza
-
VS 4c 4
104 The Avenue
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E2 5c 3
105 Briggs' and Titterton's HVS 5b * 89
106 Titter Ye not E2 5c *  
107 Lemon Squeezy
-
HVS 5b 6
108 The Whittler VS 4c ** 120
109 Gordon's Climb VS 4c 2
110 The Tittler
-
HVS 4c 1
111 Castor E1 5c ** 29
112 Wheat Thin E4 6a * 3
113 Pollux E1 5b ** 96
114 Three Pitch Climb
-
S 4a 5
115 Double Shuffle
-
HS 4a 9
116 Twentyman's Terror
-
HS 4a 9
117 The Flying Dutchman
-
VS 4a 2
118 Scratching Around
-
E2 5c 2
119 Schizont
-
VS 4c 1
120 Lundy High
-
E1 5b 2
121 Chains
-
HVS 5b 3
122 Chicken Wall
-
VS 4c 5
123 Chicken Run
-
VS 5a 3
  S.C.A.C. Wall
125 The Wall End
-
VS 4c 1
126 Belgian Blue E1 5a *  
127 Mollie's Climb
-
S 4a 4
128 Mollie's Climb Direct Finish
-
VS 4b 1
129 Little John
-
S 4a 4
130 Bull Crack
-
VS 4b 2
131 Chicken Silly Hot
-
HVS 5b 1
132 Hollow Victory
-
E1 5a 1
133 Deceptive Crack
-
S 4a 6
134 Tiptoe
-
VS 4b 2
135 Still Life
-
HS 4a 4
136 Artist's Arete
-
S 4a 4
137 Minsk
-
HS 4a 5
138 Hedony
-
HS 4a 3
139 Chauv's Last Stand
-
VS 4b 3
  Great Wall
141 May Climb
-
S 4a 1
142 Harry the Dog Tosser
-
E1 5b 1
143 Ocydroma
-
E3 5b 1
144 Ignis Fatuus E3 5c 10
145 Limbus Fatuorum HVS 5a  
146 Conjunctus Viribus E1 5b ** 64
147 Asteris E1 5c ** 59
148 Monster Munch E4 6a * 4
149 Speak Easy
-
E3 5c 1
150 S.O.S. VS 4b * 69
151 Insurrection VS 5a 1
152 Rescue Route VS 1
153 The Great Wall Traverse VS 4c 3
154 Great Wall Crossing E2 5c **  
155 Hit and Run Driver
-
E3 5c * 3
156 Ardua E1 5b * 21
157 Yewberry Groove
-
HS 1
158 Terrace Traverse
-
S 4a 3
159 Jaffa E1 5b 16
160 The Snip E2 5b 9
  Saints' Wall
162 Black Wall
-
VS 4b 1
163 Black Wall Direct VS 5a  
164 Black Corner and Flake HS 4b 1
165 Black Corner Right Wall S 4a 1
166 St Oliver
-
HS 4a  
167 St George
-
S 4a  
168 St Peter
-
S 4a 2
169 Brown Cow VS 4c  
170 St John
-
VS 4b 1

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