Climbs 161
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 312m a.s.l
Faces SW

Captain Ethical on the bold initial arete © nick willis

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
More Guidebooks:
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005)

Out of print:
Although the crag is a bit on the overgrown side and it's chossy on top it's a really nice quiet place to climb. It could do with a clean, a bit more traffic, and a few more belay stakes at the top to simplify things a bit but with a bit of care it's a great place to climb. One other thing to note is that it's sandstone not grit and stated above.
gethin_allen - 04/Sep/10
First visit to Agden Rocher today on a baking hot sunday. What a great idea is what to come here! I can only imagine how busy the more popular peak edges would have been but we saw only two other teams here all day. The trees provided a great amount of shade at the base of the crag and we got some quality routes done. Enjoyed the Whittler quite a lot. Will be making a return trip.
tom290483 - 23/May/10
The unstable section at the right hand end of the crag is now rather more stable than it was, as the hanging block of death is now on the ground at the bottom! The remaining rock looks reasonably sound, but will need a while to settle down...
Simon Caldwell - 07/Nov/09
I must defend the crag from this unwarranted attack! OK, maybe not entirely unwarranted, the trees can be a pain, and the vegetation could do with some controlling (just more people climbing here would be enough). But in all the times I've climbed here I've never had an trouble with green rock, and that's at all times of year from mid=summer to mid-winter. The unstable section at the right is the result of a rockfall in the mid 70s. As long as you avoid the obvious hanging block of death, it's all perfectly climbable, and even the hanging block is probably more sturdy that it looks, it's lasted over 30 years so far! The New Foggy Dew is a particularly fine route in that area. The main issue is lack of traffic. In all the times I've been there in the last 4 or 5 years, we've never seen more than one other team - and usually we have it to ourselves. So stop dissing the crag, you'll put people of going there!
Simon Caldwell - 26/Oct/09
I write this almost as a crag obituary.In the early seventies we climbed five or six times a year at this crag. Yes it was a little loose in places and the rock a little friable. However the crag caught the sun and in winter could be a nice place to climb.I have visited today on a dry October day and find the crag all but overgrown, green, slippery, very loose and in the main unclimbable. The crag is not beyond hope but the main problem is the amount of tree growth on the crag. As most of the trees causing the green rock are either Oaks or old Yew I cannot see them being cut. The right hand end of the crag has a very unstable section which should be avoided for safety reasons. As mentioned the crag is not beyond hope. If more people climbed at Agden, holds cleaned and there was some general tidying up ( Under direction of the correct authority)the crag may still be a lovely place to go with nice views and sunny aspect.Many of the belay stakes at the top of the crag are still servicable but the top of the routes are very overgrown. There are still one or two clean and worthwhile routes White Rose Flake still looks clean. However even the classic campsite crack is in need of gardening and would not currently rate its two stars. I am sorry to say I walked away from this crag and went to the pub instead.A sad day as many of my young climbing days were spent here.
Marcus Tierney - 23/Oct/09
A somewhat forgotten crag probably due to some access problems in the past. A helmet is a must as there is loose rock especially on the tops. Worth a visit and the crag has nice views. Do not expect perfect rock ! Not a place for families at the bottom of the crag.
Marcus Tierney - 22/Oct/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Deadnettle Crack Area 
2Hypotenuse Wall
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VD 11
3Square Chimney
-
VD 16
4Arachnid Cracks
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HS 4a 7
5Tarantula
-
VS 4b 7
6 The New Foggy DewS 4a 2
7The Bits With Hairs On
-
HVS 5b *9
8Demolition
-
VS 4a 4
9Sandyman
-
E2 5c 1
 Right-hand Walls 
11Deadnettle CrackS 4a *25
12ProtozoanHS 4a 13
13Pyrology
-
VS 4b 6
14Catherine
-
VS 4c  
15Tartan SlabVS 4c *27
16Agden AreteS 4b 11
17Boadicea's WallS 4b 1
18IceniVS 4c 3
19Judas
-
VS 4c 1
20Hey Jude
-
E2 5b 1
21Fourth Apostle
-
VS 4b 1
22Savoury Crunch
-
HVS 5a 1
23HaggS 4a 6
 Wailing Wall Area 
25Narrow Minded
-
E1 5c 1
26Double De-ClutchHVS 5a *24
27Disappointment
-
VD 7
28Oak Tree SaunterVD 3
29AberrationHVS 5a *19
30Death-Throes in the Hedgerows
-
E1 5c 2
31Funeral CrackS 4a *7
32Grey WallVS 4b 19
33Bradfield Arete
-
S 4a 3
34Q.E.D.
-
S 4a 3
35Then Jericho
-
E1 5b 1
36Fall of Jericho
-
E2 5b 1
37Jericho WallHS 4a 33
38Scarred ClimbHS 4a *61
39AaronVS 4c 5
40Baker StreetVS 4c *28
41Lemon Entry
-
VS 4c 1
42Leaning Block Wall
-
VS 4c 5
43Painter's ClimbS 4a 12
44The Nags HeadE1 5b 1
45Pie and a PintHVS 5a 1
46NumenoreanVS 4c *6
47Numenorean DirectE1 5b  
48White Rose FlakeVS 4c *59
49MartiniVS 4b *72
50Martini CrackVS 4b *21
51BiancoVS 4b *92
52FilthHVD 4a 26
53DerisionS 4a 7
54Extra TastyE4 6a 2
55The ResurrectionE2 5b *15
56Koh-i-NoorHVS 5a *23
57TaurusVS 4c 2
 Oak Tree Wall Area 
59Scarecliffe
-
E3 5c 1
60Dam ItHVS 5a * 
61Jack o LanternE1 5b  
62Hanging Garden WallS 4a 6
63Little XVS 4b  
64E.N. 24VS 5a 23
65Oak Tree WalkVS 4b *120
66Flamingo WallHVS 5a *25
67Flaming 'ard
-
E1 5b 1
68Jackdaw Crack
-
VD 4
69Straight Crack
-
D 5
70Hard Men Don't Spot Lines Like This
-
VD 2
71Rowan Tree Crack
-
VD 3
72Bogey's Beacon
-
S 4a 2
 Campsite Crack 
74Gimli
-
HVS 5a 1
75Irish DexterE2 5c  
76Crumbler
-
E1 5a 1
77Bostonian
-
S 4a  
78Bostonian Direct
-
HS 4b 1
79Dreams by the Sea
-
E2 5c *1
80Are We There Yet
-
E4 6a * 
81Artifax ArêteE3 5c *5
82Man of GodVS 4b *23
83Libra
-
HVS 4c 2
84Armstrong's Eliminate
-
E4 5c 2
85Scouting For BoysE3 5c *8
86Campsite CrackS 4a **140
87Paul's Arête Start
-
E1 5b 2
88David's Other Start
-
E2 5c 1
89Indirect StartS 4a 4
90Indirect Finish
-
E1 5b 3
91GeminiVS 4c 8
92Mike's RouteHVS 5a 3
93Begum Behar
-
VS 5a 1
94Jalfrezee Jug Fest
-
S 4a 1
95The Gatepost
-
VD 1
96Min-Arête
-
E1 5b 1
97TsumamiHVS 5a  
98Nill
-
VS 4a  
99Harlequinade
-
VD 3
100Farmers BlondeHVS 5a * 
 The Whittler 
102Cock o' the NorthS 4a 15
103Spring Lamb Dopiazza
-
VS 4c 5
104The Avenue
-
E2 5c 3
105Briggs' and Titterton'sHVS 5b *90
106Titter Ye notE2 5c * 
107Lemon Squeezy
-
HVS 5b 6
108The WhittlerVS 4c **120
109Gordon's ClimbVS 4c 2
110The Tittler
-
HVS 4c 1
111CastorE1 5c **28
112Wheat ThinE4 6a *3
113PolluxE1 5b **102
114Three Pitch Climb
-
S 4a 5
115Double Shuffle
-
HS 4a 9
116Twentyman's Terror
-
HS 4a 9
117The Flying Dutchman
-
VS 4a 2
118Scratching Around
-
E2 5c 2
119Schizont
-
VS 4c 1
120Lundy High
-
E1 5b 2
121Chains
-
HVS 5b 3
122Chicken Wall
-
VS 4c 5
123Chicken Run
-
VS 5a 3
 S.C.A.C. Wall 
125The Wall End
-
VS 4c 1
126Belgian BlueE1 5a * 
127Mollie's Climb
-
S 4a 4
128Mollie's Climb Direct Finish
-
VS 4b 1
129Little John
-
S 4a 4
130Bull Crack
-
VS 4b 2
131Chicken Silly Hot
-
HVS 5b 1
132Hollow Victory
-
E1 5a 1
133Deceptive Crack
-
S 4a 6
134Tiptoe
-
VS 4b 2
135Still Life
-
HS 4a 4
136Artist's Arete
-
S 4a 4
137Minsk
-
HS 4a 5
138Hedony
-
HS 4a 3
139Chauv's Last Stand
-
VS 4b 3
 Great Wall 
141May Climb
-
S 4a 1
142Harry the Dog Tosser
-
E1 5b 1
143Ocydroma
-
E3 5b 1
144Ignis FatuusE3 5c 10
145Limbus FatuorumHVS 5a  
146Conjunctus ViribusE1 5b **69
147AsterisE1 5c **57
148Monster MunchE4 6a *6
149Speak Easy
-
E3 5c 1
150S.O.S.VS 4b *72
151InsurrectionVS 5a 1
152Rescue RouteVS 1
153The Great Wall TraverseVS 4c 3
154Great Wall CrossingE2 5c ** 
155Hit and Run Driver
-
E3 5c *3
156ArduaE1 5b *22
157Yewberry Groove
-
HS 1
158Terrace Traverse
-
S 4a 3
159JaffaE1 5b 17
160The SnipE2 5b 9
 Saints' Wall 
162Black Wall
-
VS 4b 1
163Black Wall DirectVS 5a  
164Black Corner and FlakeHS 4b 1
165Black Corner Right WallS 4a 1
166St Oliver
-
HS 4a  
167St George
-
S 4a  
168St Peter
-
S 4a 2
169Brown CowVS 4c  
170St John
-
VS 4b 1

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