Restricted Access
The main bolted areas (Apiary Wall and Scabby Back) are unrestricted. All other areas of the crag including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.
There was a landslide on the steep descent to the north of the lighthouse in November 2021 causing damage to the bolt anchors and fixed ropes. The recommended alternative descent is by the easier route further north. The Fishermans steps is another alternative to the south but this is only recommended to those who are really happy with strenuous and exposed descents.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The area has very important Guillemot, Kitttiwake, and Razorbill breeding colonies and The RSPB have stipulated no access to the area south (right) of the route Army Screamers between the above dates.
Other restricted St Bees areas:
- St. Bees Far South Boulders - South of Fisherman's Steps / "Fishermans Dyno Boulder
- St. Bees Head South - sectors beyond "Cryptozoo" and the cliff top access path
Access to Fleswick Bay is permitted all year round, but only south of the inlet where the path meets the shore.
At South Head the small bouldering area is only accessible outside the nesting season.
Rockfax Description
Move up leftwards to the groove and climb it to a lower-off. The first bolt is high. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alpenglow | 27 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower off is on single bolt 30cm back from edge. Slings/tat on lower off are looking worn. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lower off is on single bolt 30cm back from edge. Slings/tat on lower off are looking worn. |
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| Henry Swandale | 8 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy route. Use slings to scale overhang and reach damp ledge at top. Lower off is bad. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Easy route. Use slings to scale overhang and reach damp ledge at top. Lower off is bad. |
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| raussmf | 26 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Read the route wrong as 1) no lower off was visible 2) didnt look at the guide properly. Kept trying to traverse and go up the 6b+ next door...in hindsight would have been pretty straightforward...rethreaded 2nd bolt. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Read the route wrong as 1) no lower off was visible 2) didnt look at the guide properly. Kept trying to traverse and go up the 6b+ next door...in hindsight would have been pretty straightforward...rethreaded 2nd bolt. |
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| eldre070 | 12 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Damp. First bolt very high and the lower off is atrocious. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Damp. First bolt very high and the lower off is atrocious. |
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