Restricted Access
UPDATE AUG25:
After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs. This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.
Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive. There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.
Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.
Rockfax Description
The traditional route to the magnificent summit of the Long Stone is a well-travelled outing. From a belay on the col between the main cliff and the pinnacle, move up right to a sloping ledge and then climb a short steep wall to another ledge. Traverse left to a groove (iron hook spike) and climb it to the summit.
Descent - Abseil down to the col from a good spike of rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The Original route to the top of the Longstone pinnacle (Needle Rock). Sports an ancient iron hooked spike in-situ runner half way up. Shiny but beautiful.
Ticklists
The Yat road to ruins HVS , Welcome to CUMC , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| springfall2008 | 27 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: From the path step around to the right side on the small ramp and then mount the ledge before stepping left. The 'hook' is quite good and can be clipped along side a small thread. Gear above isn't great, managed a small cam and a nut in a slightly dodgy looking block before the final scramble. The polish isn't really an issue. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: From the path step around to the right side on the small ramp and then mount the ledge before stepping left. The 'hook' is quite good and can be clipped along side a small thread. Gear above isn't great, managed a small cam and a nut in a slightly dodgy looking block before the final scramble. The polish isn't really an issue. |
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| NigelHurst | 18 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: try not to use too much gear low down as causes too much rope drag, one was enough. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: try not to use too much gear low down as causes too much rope drag, one was enough. |
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| Mattress | 21 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Wobbly block with inviting thread, just below the summit blocks. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wobbly block with inviting thread, just below the summit blocks. |
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| smile youve won | 5 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Geese nesting at the top of the pinnacle, on the river side. Doesn\'t really effect this route, but may cause distress if climbing the likes of whitt | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Geese nesting at the top of the pinnacle, on the river side. Doesn't really effect this route, but may cause distress if climbing the likes of whitt |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Symonds Yat
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Central Rib Route I
Grade: S 4a ***
(Wintour's Leap)