UKC

Contributed by Lottie Grigg Apr/17 - This public ticklist has been seen 3,666 times

Many of us fresh Cardiff Uni Mountaineering Club members are bitten quickly by the outdoor climbing bug and want to get out with the club as much as possible. The CUMC ticklist provides many great climbs at all grades but it can be hard to know where to look for good-quality lower-grade climbs! For that reason, Camilla (@camulv) and I have been working on this list of CUMC beginner classics (with recommendations, naturally) for some easily accessible climbing entertainment.

Stipulations:
- sport up to 6a
- trad lead up to S
- trad second up to HVS (much wider range available on main CUMC ticklist, these are mostly especially popular classics that are aspirational 2nd/3rd year leads and nice to be aware of)
- boulder up to f5

These are all grades accessible by the end of your first year of climbing with CUMC! Within each section, climbs are ordered by grade; within grade, rough distance from Cardiff.
*Note that some are not in the UK but from the fresher-accessible Fontainebleau bouldering trip (Easter) and El Chorro sport climbing trip (Christmas)
**For further Valleys sport, see "South Wales by Train (from Cardiff)" ticklist by training sec 15/16 @Rob McGurk

PLEASE ask if you are at all unsure about a technique - do not endanger yourself or others. This ranges from safely leading, lead-belaying, and abseiling to correctly lowering off or removing your trad leader's gear.

Happy climbing!

Chilly first climb of 2018 on Commando Ridge   © Joshua Goodwin
Chilly first climb of 2018 on Commando Ridge
© Joshua Goodwin, Jan 2018

46 users are subscribed to this ticklist, and none have completed the full list.
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User Percentage Latest Log
1st David Maddison 71% 1 Jun, 2024
2nd myrddinmuse 62% 7 May
3rd steve_gibbs 59% 9 Aug
4th mikej 46% 30 Sep, 2015
5th Lottie Grigg 45% 1 Jun, 2024
6th BHuthers 43% 22 May, 2021
6th John1458 43% 6 Jun
7th GHawksworth 42% 6 Aug, 2021
8th wnicholson 37% 4 Jun, 2022
9th Emily-Cooper 35% 2 Jun

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Yes, that's a red offset! © Alex Edge

Grooved Arête
Yes, that's a red offset!
© Alex Edge

Chris Bonington still climbing at 78. Legend © Paluchi

Little Chamonix
Chris Bonington still climbing at 78. Legend
© Paluchi

Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire © Huw Mithan

Sea Mist
Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the thrills of sea cliff climbing in Pembrokeshire
© Huw Mithan

Climbers on the Longstone Pinnacle, Symonds Yat © JHC

Vertigo
Climbers on the Longstone Pinnacle, Symonds Yat
© JHC

The despair felt on Under Milk Wood © steve-grigg

Under Milk Wood
The despair felt on Under Milk Wood
© steve-grigg

"Katie, can you climb Little Chamonix in a dinosaur suit?" "You bet Jurassican!" © Luke Briggs

Little Chamonix
"Katie, can you climb Little Chamonix in a dinosaur suit?" "You bet Jurassican!"
© Luke Briggs

Tim Rolfe on Sea Mist, Saddle Head, Pembroke © pencilled in

Sea Mist
Tim Rolfe on Sea Mist, Saddle Head, Pembroke
© pencilled in

Upside down send © LewisHobson

Idwal Squeeze
Upside down send
© LewisHobson

The Crack © Chris Ellis

The Crack
© Chris Ellis

Such a perfect day... © Cusco

Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge
Such a perfect day...
© Cusco

Will Birkett races up the top pitch of Little Chamonix as night falls, the final route of The Lakes Classic Rock Round. © Tom McNally

Little Chamonix
Will Birkett races up the top pitch of Little Chamonix as night falls, the final route of The Lakes Classic Rock Round.
© Tom McNally

Soloing Commando Ridge © Hamish Frost

Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge
Soloing Commando Ridge
© Hamish Frost


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
SPORT
Dissertation Distraction 4b 240 ? Taff's Well
Leopard Prints 4b * 285 15m Foxhole
Jagged Face 4a * 948 ? Bus Stop Quarry
Bulbus Tara 4c * 298 35m • 2 Taff's Well
The Trevena Fish Hotel 4b * 123 ? Rhossili Beach
Fistful of Tenners 4c *** 675 ? Rhossili Beach
Sector Canada Access 4a * 429 28m Frontales
Sorbet de Limón 4c ** 308 22m Escalera Arabe
Er Suzuki 4c * 369 10m Valle de Abdalajis
He Sawed 5a * 90 ? Mountain Ash
Coral Corner 5a * 3 12m Foxhole
Dawson's Corner 5a *** 299 ? Rhossili Beach
Vas Pisando Huevos 5a * 794 19m Frontales
Bano de Tierra 5c ** 321 15m Valle de Abdalajis
Weeping Stump 5b * 127 24m Mountain Ash
Final Relief of the Blue Ball Artist 5b * 32 15m Ton Pentre (Ystrad)
Holds May Spin 5b ** 175 ? Rhossili Beach
Angry Pirate 5c ** 357 ? Taff's Well
Kiss the Gunner's Daughter 5c * 335 ? Taff's Well
Butt Out 5c 92 17m The Gap
Galena Puts Lead In Your Pencil 5c ** 55 ? Castle Upon Alun...
Rockover Beethoven 6a * 470 ? Navigation Quarry
Mental Mantels 6a * 1298 16m Tirpentwys
Squash Match 6a * 199 ? Navigation Quarry
Rocky 6a ** 1450 13m Tirpentwys
Groping for Jugs 6a *** 275 12m Bargoed
Lemon Soul 6a *** 598 ? Rhossili Beach
TRAD LEAD
Great Cleft D * 209 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
The Ordinary Route D ** 3917 140m • 4 Idwal Slabs (aka...
Spiral Stairs VD *** 1836 84m Dinas Cromlech
Overlapping Rib Route (a.k.a. First Pinnacle Rib) D ** 1761 150m Tryfan
Mucky Gully D ** 2235 40m The Dewerstone
Staircase D ** 1855 18m Sennen
Pine Tree VD ** 225 ? Taff's Well
Snoozin' Suzie VD ** 2210 40m Symonds Yat
Central Rib Route III VD *** 460 ? Wintour's Leap
Bottle Buttress VD 4a ** 933 78m • 4 Wintour's Leap
Pinnacle Crack VD * 745 24m Port Eynon
Classic VD * 847 19m Port Eynon
Amble VD * 287 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Joggled Wall VD * 739 18m Three Cliffs Bay
Small Beginnings VD * 1051 24m Saddle Head
Little Chamonix VD *** 8679 70m • 4 Shepherd’s Crag
The Crack VD ** 1199 20m Porthclais Area
Flying Buttress VD *** 3498 87m • 6 Dinas Cromlech
Hollybush Crack VD *** 8119 14m Stanage Popular
Heaven Crack VD *** 6529 10m Stanage Popular
Colonel's Arete VD ** 2215 ? • 4 The Dewerstone
Bosigran Ridge a.k.a Commando Ridge VD *** 3917 161m • 8 Bosigran Ridge Area
Zig Zag VD ** 2123 15m Haytor
Bowfell Buttress HS 4b *** 1315 110m • 4 Bowfell
Grooved Arête HVD 4a *** 4882 230m • 8 Tryfan
Helfenstein's Struggle HVD 4a ** 699 16m Stanage Plantation
Flying Buttress HVD 4a *** 9572 24m Stanage Popular
Central Rib Route I S 4a *** 2397 63m • 4 Wintour's Leap
Vertigo S 4a ** 1553 ? Symonds Yat
Gethsemane S 4a ** 829 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Column S 4a * 877 19m Port Eynon
Dulfer S 4a ** 904 19m Port Eynon
Initiation Flake S 4a ** 975 12m Three Cliffs Bay
Sleepwalk S 4a ** 1721 61m • 4 Avon Gorge (Sea...
Giltar Slab Route S 4a *** 615 45m Penally East
Urchin S 4a * 1000 24m Saddle Head
Infra Red S * 805 24m Saddle Head
Black Hawk Hell Crack S 4a *** 7517 14m Stanage Popular
TRAD SECOND
Christmas Curry S 4a *** 3991 75m • 4 Craig Bwlch y Moch...
Zelda HS 4b *** 2272 55m • 2 Wintour's Leap
Sea Mist HS 4a ** 3310 30m Saddle Head
Christmas Crack HS 4a *** 8821 16m Stanage Popular
Tennis Shoe HS 4b *** 3948 137m • 5 Idwal Slabs (aka...
Whitt VS 4c *** 1094 37m • 2 Symonds Yat
Questor VS 4c *** 1305 34m Wynd Cliff
Under Milk Wood VS 4a *** 330 21m Three Cliffs Bay
Scavenger VS 4c *** 1157 26m Three Cliffs Bay
Valkyrie VS 5a * 49 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
Nemo VS 4c * 375 18m Port Eynon
Osiris VS 4c *** 913 36m Fall Bay to Mewslade
Isis HVS 5a *** 540 ? Fall Bay to Mewslade
BOULDERING
Fissure Est du Piaf (Blue 21) f3 169 ? L'Elephant
Orange 9 f3 79 3m La Roche aux Sabots
La Plage f5+ 50 ? L'Elephant
Idwal Squeeze f5 *** 277 ? Idwal Cottage Crag
156 stars 130,575 2,414m 132
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