34m. The obvious full-height groove in the centre of the Right Hand buttress. The crack will swallow as much gear as you care to place, take a full rack.

Some people consider this bit tough for a 4b.

There is a tree with abseil tat close to the top, but it's often quicker just to walk off (with care, belay recommended).

F Cannings, P R Littlejohn, G Morgan 14/Feb/1970

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Orange Spot Lower Wye, A Worthwhile Weekend at Wyndcliffe.

Nathan Chrismas 21/Jan Lead O/S

First trad route of 2017 and a good 'un at that. Barely noticed the polish but it was bloody chilly. Couple of stiff moves at the grade, but always followed by a decent rest.

with Dave
DavidWilby 21/Jan 2nd
with Nathan
steve_gibbs 21/Jan Lead rpt
with Tom O Davies, Anouk Spelt
Joel Perkin 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 28/Dec/16 2nd rpt
myrddinmuse 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Fun route, got a little cold on the first bit while ffafing for gear.

Hidden 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
needlefluff 05/Nov/16 Lead
with bonoid
needlefluff 05/Nov/16 Lead
with bonoid
bonoid 05/Nov/16 -
AngelaC 15/Oct/16 Lead
Bobling 02/Oct/16 Lead

Another one a long time coming. Took comments on here seriously and took up 18 QDs and about 3 sets of nuts and a full set of cams, needless to say that was overkill. Crux was fine once committed and from there it was steady, even if no push over. Think I fist jammed for the first time ever in earnest!

pembrokeshirecaver 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Alex Hannan
wurzelinzummerset 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Rob
BHuthers 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Felt good but tired, got a bit pumped as well.

GHawksworth 22/Sep/16 2nd O/S
kierankeavy 22/Sep/16 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 22/Sep/16 Lead rpt
chris cockbain 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
robertmills4 16/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/16 Lead
Alex_RhodesUK 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Sam de Belder
hairy51 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Really good fun climb. Fairly sustained all the way but absolutely bomber gear.

wjcdean 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Quite sustained, but 2 or 3 decent rests make it okay. Great route. The challenge is leaving enough gear for the top half!

BStar 23/Aug/16 2nd rpt

A pleasure as always

Trevers 23/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Good climb but I found it pretty strenuous. Very sustained.

with BStar, Will
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd
TimKnight 07/Aug/16 2nd
Joemanglerocks 07/Aug/16 Lead
caradoc 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Quite a tough pitch. Every move 4b+ and surprisingly little for your feet, especially on the right hand side.

with Matt H.
Wendy Watthews 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Mr G
Dave Latimer 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 20/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Elaine Reed 20/Jul/16 2nd

Head wasn't in the game, took a ridiculously long time getting up it because I was scared stiff, despite the moves not being that hard.

with Steve
Hidden 12/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead
Adam24B 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Kris2fa 09/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Adam24B
matthew.n.u 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tiff
Tiff Vaggas 05/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd
natlavender 03/Jul/16 2nd
with tobra
cem 02/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Simon Carr
stpauliblade 23/Jun/16 2nd
tom0129 23/Jun/16 Lead O/S
thomb 04/Jun/16 Lead
with Colin
aptius 03/Jun/16 TR O/S

TR solo; four reps to work on my crack climbing skills. Nice route, sustained but nothing too tricky. 4b seems reasonable to me.

Clee 29/May/16 2nd
with Mooney
c jepps 25/May/16 2nd O/S

in the dark

stalbot 25/May/16 Lead O/S
with c jepps
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead
Hidden 23/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/16 Lead O/S
easily amused male 13/May/16 Lead O/S

a long crack without much variation. Not really a 3 star route

with gary
Martin Brierley 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Much easier than Cadillac

with Steve Cox
SambucaHughes 03/May/16 2nd
with BStar
BStar 03/May/16 Lead rpt

i've now come round to thinking this is 4b and not 4c, it's sustained but never really overly technical. The crux is high in 4b though and the rest of the route is 4b too. i lead fibre 'VS 4c' afterwards which makes this route seem like a severe!

JHC 01/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Steve Bartle 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Yeah, good stuff. Polished in a few places under foot so watch out for that. Seems like 4c to me

Rob Morgan 23/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Derek Ryden 17/Apr/16 2nd rpt

Disappointing due to vast amount of polish. If climbing was mostly like this I would have given it up years ago.

with Andy Forbes
Hidden 16/Apr/16 2nd rpt
simibrown 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Rich
steve-grigg 08/Apr/16 2nd O/S
GHawksworth 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S
James S 02/Apr/16 -

As with cadillac, I don't think it would be unreasonable to up a tech grade for this to 4c.

ali.scott 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Ali
Soph Armshaw 02/Apr/16 2nd
Chris Sansum 26/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with James McLoughlin
DanH9883 25/Mar/16 Lead
with Ellie
EllieCotterill 25/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Dan
DanielBryan 23/Mar/16 Lead

Very nice climbing all the way! Great route.

with Josh
JoshChappell 23/Mar/16 Lead
mossrug 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Rob
Sam Watson 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

First climb of the year. Nice to get back in the flow of placing gear. Fun climbing if a little polished.

frank ramsay 27/Feb/16 Lead
with Thea Ramsay
Hexman 03/Feb/16 Lead O/S

First climb of the year.

with Andy F
EllieCotterill ??/2016 2nd
with Dan
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 29/Oct/15 Lead O/S
ecromwell 29/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Grim at the bottom. Nice climb though!

jordana86 03/Oct/15 2nd
Stickle Tarn 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Giles Eperon 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Neil Watson 26/Sep/15 Lead dog

Had a hissy fit at the crux. Luckily Aiden, although being profusely verbally abused by me wouldn't let me back off. Sat on my gear once. Will come back and do it clean again, then maybe Cadillac?

with Aidan
Charlie Eperon 26/Sep/15 2nd
Mr Tickle 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with davenev
davenev 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with luke
Luke90 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
springfall2008 11/Aug/15 Lead β

Went back to lead after seconding the route earlier in the year. I really enjoyed the climb, always lots of gear so I tried not to over protect. There are a couple of good ledges for hands free rests which certainly helps a lot. I managed to find two good threads on route as well as the usual nuts and cam placements. I'm not sure I agree with the comments saying this is a 4c, it's certainly less technical than true 4c VS routes.

Charleston 08/Aug/15 2nd
with Ben
Avon Man 02/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Derek
andrea83 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Straightforward, nice.

with Hamish
Hamish777 01/Aug/15 2nd O/S

+1 for the comments on it being 4C. The routes looks ok from the bottom but is actually a little harder when you get on it. It's a fab route.

with Andrea
StefanP ?/Aug/15 Lead
bpmclimb 31/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 31/Jul/15 2nd
cwildblood 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead
David Maddison 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Connie-Em 15/Jul/15 2nd O/S
mattrm 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Glad others felt that it's 4c in places. Had a bit of a wibble mid route. Nice climbing, well protected, sunk about 17 bits of gear. Ran out of large nuts and hexes.

with Joe Gallacher
richardbyrom 08/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Simon Middleton
mike.moss 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 30/Jun/15 2nd rpt
twem 30/Jun/15 Lead
jon_gill1 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

A great climb,ran it out quite a bit so as not to pump out.really was a lovely climb!

Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
London Luke 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Emma
Ian Stirrups 19/Jun/15 Lead

Route 1 of Wye Valley Tour

with Sue
springfall2008 16/Jun/15 2nd β

Excellent route, feels quite long but always well protected. Lots of bridging, layback and jams (if you prefer). Standard for the grade and not too polished despite the comments from others. Take a lot of gear, Mark was leading and he placed 17 pieces (mix of cams, nuts and hexes) and that was about right. A bit of an awkward top out as we had to abseil from the big tree (screwgate/slings in place already) which is right on the cliff edge. Maybe next time we will try to top out.

Dr Toph 15/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Nice but unpleasantly polished, which makes for most of the difficulty.

with Emily
Ian Stirrups 12/Jun/15 2nd

for the nth time, but always a pleasure

with Sue
steve_gibbs 11/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S

See why it has all the hype. Well protected crack climbing. A must for all aspiring VS leaders.

with Steve
Rob Morgan 03/Jun/15 Lead
with Win-yei
Win-yei 03/Jun/15 2nd
with Rob
AndrewP 30/May/15 Lead O/S
KittyKat 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Smith, Jody Palmer
Pero 22/May/15 Lead
Graeme Hammond 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Becky E
Becky E 16/May/15 2nd O/S
mdolan 15/May/15 Lead O/S

Hard VS. Prob 4c

alastairbegley 12/May/15 Lead rpt

Forgot how good this is!

gingerbex 12/May/15 2nd O/S
BStar 12/May/15 Lead rpt

The grading seems very strange, VS 4b? I would be happier with 4c. Very sustained but bomber gear all of the way up (if you take enough!)

with Rachael
Rachael88 12/May/15 2nd
with Adam
gregclarke 10/May/15 2nd rpt
with Brian
bpmclimb 10/May/15 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 10/May/15 2nd
mes32 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Chris
jrccrosby 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

I thought VS was about right for it, pretty long. I wasn't bowled over by it

with Elsie
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
sheelba 12/Apr/15 2nd
Radical-G 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Gibbo 06/Apr/15 Lead
with Tom Sutherland
Tala M 05/Apr/15 2nd O/S
climbingpixie 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Gemma, Claire
Mr. K 04/Apr/15 Lead O/S
KarlH 04/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Feeling over confident. Reached the small overhand and bottled it.

KarlH 04/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Leelogs 04/Apr/15 Lead
jsmcfarland 03/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Somewhat undergraded at 4b, I would say more like 4c for the moves getting over the roof boulder problem near the start, in part due to the polish. Afterwards just sustained 4b laybacking and/or jamming. Brilliant route and top quality all the way. One of the best VS routes I've done.

with Uncle Kev
Matthew Martin Wsm 01/Apr/15 2nd

found very sustained and steep, pumpy, hard warm up! :)

with caleb streat
Kemics 01/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Had previously seconded. Had great fun climbing it. Must remember to use direct belay.

wurzelinzummerset 31/Mar/15 Lead O/S

No more polished than your average Wye valley VS. One of the best VS routes I've climbed.

with Ric
jungle 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Pike
Spillers 08/Feb/15 Lead
with Nathan Kitcher
jon_ridley 08/Feb/15 2nd
davidclare 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S
s0458892 24/Jan/15 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 19/Dec/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 19/Dec/14 2nd
Matt1234 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Chris Sansum 15/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with Steve Collard
kp64zl ?/Nov/14 2nd O/S
mikedevcole 12/Sep/14 2nd β
Chris Sansum 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Caroline N Chaoimh
MJAS82 05/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Katsmiff 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Rich led. Okay, nothing that memorable. Legs were knackered from previously leading Cadillac

clairemathews 23/Aug/14 2nd
Martin Bagshaw 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ollie1 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
wyzfen 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
robh14 09/Aug/14 Lead
SiyP 09/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with McCoy
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt
fishinwater 08/Aug/14 Lead

Polished.Polished .Polished.

with Chris W
jameshadley 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Sustained long route. 4b pretty much all the way to the top, with jamming and laybacks. One awful polished foothold under the overhang about 1/4 of the way up, but polish not a problem otherwise. Excellent route overall!

saraguti 03/Aug/14 Lead
with jade
Amber Chaloner 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

First VS. Amazing climb. Sustained and interesting. Great moves with a couple of ledges thrown in so you can catch your breath.

with Jane Woulds
joe gallacher 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Very nice, first route of the day. Bout same level as Papillion.( not surprising given they're both 4b !

with Allan Green
AngelaC 15/Jul/14 2nd
with Sue
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead
Pike 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Pretty straightforward all the way. A very pleasant romp up the crag. Possibly overgraded at VS.

with Mark Condon
Pintsize 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
will_benfold 12/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Julie Carroll 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Thompson
Dave Thompson 11/Jul/14 2nd
MontyH 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Brian
brian watson 09/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/14 -
brian watson 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 22/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Rob84 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Lou Ramsden, Tim Ashlin
martin one 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Lucy
Wildstyle 15/Jun/14 2nd
danieleaston 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Got massively pumped, dropped gear, had two seperate mental crises, but did it! Good climb

with Saz
saz_b 08/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead
BStar 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Brilliant climb, I would love to one day lead this, great jamming and layback all the way up.

with Jeremy
Ian Stirrups 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Sue
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
cem 25/May/14 2nd rpt
Kirill 25/May/14 2nd rpt
pimpy 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Snorfalorpagus 18/May/14 2nd
with Steve Robinson
will_benfold 18/May/14 Lead O/S
stevorobs3 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Josh A
Vnockles 18/May/14 2nd
cem 11/May/14 2nd rpt
with Tim Howard
BeckyS 11/May/14 2nd
with Zaheer
Julesthe1st 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Mike
Cheese Monkey 29/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Iggy
squicky 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Great route and probably right for the grade. No moves harder than 4b but they keep coming! The rain possibly didn't help as well.

with Ben
Big Lee 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Very polished but very good. Sustained climbing all the way but gear placements overhead whenever needed.

Murilo Lessa 21/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Lee Harisson
Hidden 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
CurlyStevo 13/Apr/14 2nd
with Mick Ward
Dave Mahon 12/Apr/14 Lead

An excellent climb. Not much polish

with Ben Knudson
chris_woodsy ?/Apr/14 2nd β
Gareth T 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
alastairbegley 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt

Forgot how good this climb is!

Nick Russell 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Definitely 3 stars.

steve_gibbs 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with George Cave
67hours 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Steve "d00D" Gibbs
bpmclimb 03/Feb/14 Lead rpt
gregclarke 03/Feb/14 2nd rpt
with Brian
JClimb ?/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Varley
rich H0001 ??/2014 -
grp 08/Dec/13 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with tomar
pftom 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Damp rock in places

Mayaculpa 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Peter
pheotleyr 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Excellent, constant climbing throughout.

with Mike
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Dunx 22/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Adam
Chris Sansum 08/Sep/13 Lead rpt

Really nice route. First climbing day for a while! Emma's second trad route.

with Emma
Rooney90 08/Sep/13 2nd
Stuart William 03/Sep/13 Lead β

Led after Ben lowered off from the first section of the groove. Clipped his gear up to here and then led through. Nice climbing with plenty of good gear.

with Ben F
MD 31/Aug/13 2nd
with Jo
ElvisLeg 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sally
Happy Wanderer 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Rather polished but a worthwhile climb.

with Mike D
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead O/S
stevelismore 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S

We didn't have a guidebook for the crag so guessed this was an HS but seemed very hard. Well pleased to discover I wasn't such a wimp and it was actually a VS 4b.

with Trevor PCC
angie 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Paul Amies
riddle 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Last route of the day, tough after a year mostly on slabs

cem 18/Aug/13 Lead rpt

A repeat but I'd not led it before

Dave Mahon 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Another classic. Keeps going all the way to the top.

matt.jj 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good solid route - very enjoyable with great views from the belay!

with Dave Mahon
MichaelConstantinou 28/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Ian Thompson
Penfold Merton 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with torsok
ardzeiem 28/Jul/13 2nd
with OliverK
Dibdawg 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Phil Mitchel
98%monkey 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Al Dibben
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead
Cheese Monkey 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Excellent route, steep and sustained

with Ian M
Ian Miller 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Brilliant route, thoroughly enjoyed it.

Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
hereford-climber 07/Jul/13 -

A classic, longer then expected, was starting to run out of gear!!

craigaj.ace 02/Jul/13 2nd
with James
jcasey2436 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
hrgcb 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Virgil Scott
bpmclimb 02/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Ben Crook, Greg Clarke, Clare
gregclarke 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Brian
Huntlyfiddler 02/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/May/13 TR
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
Binder 19/May/13 -
with Steve G, JT
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
lakeyross 29/Apr/13 2nd

Marc lead

petellis 29/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Sloth
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Puckle 22/Apr/13 Lead O/S

First trad lead of the year, found it harder than expected (4c all day long) though I'm not as proficient in the jamming arts as some. Good gear.

98%monkey 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S


with Nicki
Mistee 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

Worthy of the stars

with Phil
lakeyross 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Kyuzo 17/Mar/13 -
Hidden 16/Mar/13 2nd O/S
ripper 16/Mar/13 2nd

Good lead from Matt in slimy, wet and very cold conditions - especially as it was his first outdoor action since last August. Hot aches at the top!

with Matt Chap
jcook1980 23/Feb/13 2nd
with Leo
leohl 23/Feb/13 Lead
haz rudry ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
rhysjones932 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Rooney90 ??/2013 2nd
al99 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
martinazando 27/Oct/12 Lead
bpmclimb 04/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 04/Oct/12 2nd
Slick 09/Sep/12 2nd

Nice - few rest points so enjoy and keep moving.

Mike Hood 03/Sep/12 Lead
fatbuoybazza 30/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Andrew Sloan 18/Aug/12 Lead rpt

1st 30ft very greasy and insecure. The rest of the climb is a very pleasant 4b. Climbed this 12 to 13 years ago and remembered it as a lot harder than I thought today.

with Tim
JamieTown 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
RossT 30/Jul/12 2nd
with Jamie T
matjam 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Andrewbirkett 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S

First for a while due ti the rain and floods this year!, a bit muzzy in the head but got over jitters fairly quickly, good route, probably 4b VS

with Saz
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jonathan Storey 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Tough climbing, strenuous and continuous, watch for the nice pocket near the tough first section. This climb offers few places to rest so enjoy them when you find them. Good pro too good in places first loss plastic nut to the wall. same move lift left leg to small ledge and pull up rinse and repeat. Not worthy of all those stars.

with JamieC, Alan
Anthony Dixon 05/Jul/12 Lead
JamesColeman ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Quite sustained. Well protected.

with Jon, Alan
Ian JL 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Barry
fatbuoybazza 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with jim
Hairy Welshman 29/May/12 Lead O/S
ANDYDAWKS 29/May/12 2nd
puppythedog 25/May/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant line, it is polished but that doesn't ruin it. Really nice, really obvious, no routefinding difficulties and a great trip out a VS. at the harder end of the spectrum but VS none the less.

with JOhn Wilson
crossdressingrodney 22/May/12 Lead O/S

Tough for VS. Definitely not 4b either! Requires some jamming technique above and a bit of a flap and a pull to get over the little roof at about 8m.

with Julian
alastairbegley 21/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/12 Lead
stevelucocq 19/May/12 2nd rpt
with RichC
lukewilliams 13/May/12 Lead
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd
mike.moss 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 10/Apr/12 2nd rpt
with Lee P
Nevil 08/Apr/12 2nd
with Vince
Vincej 08/Apr/12 Lead
with Nevil
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Quirina 01/Apr/12 2nd rpt
james.slater 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Really good lead!! Quite hard at 4b, it wasnt any easier than cadillac in my opinion

with Ell Meachen
Derek Ryden 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Andy Forbes
iforwms 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
TimPerkin 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
mick1jones 25/Mar/12 Lead β

First climbed with Alex in 2009 - 2nd

with Rich Rogers
Gibbo 09/Mar/12 Lead
with Pete Derrett
James Marshall ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Was expecting it to be easier !

with Dick Hall
Hidden 28/Feb/12 Lead
Ricky Rocks 26/Feb/12 2nd
with richard hall, James Marshall
AngelaC 27/Jan/12 2nd
Chris Sieradzki 22/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Warmup climb, and it certainly did that - thought it was quite tough for VS. Good varied route. My first climb on double ropes, first (poor) attempt to place cams, first abseil off a route.

Dave 88 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Freezing cold! Thought it was gonna be lots of bridging; which I love. It was lots of jamming; which I hate. Nice route though, but never 3*. Watch out for loose rock and take plenty of draws. First time here, I'll be returning; thought it was a nice place.

with Kemics
Kemics 14/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Thought it was tougher than Cadillac...

mrfeebus ??/2012 -
Nick Russell 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Great climb! Fairer at VS than Cadillac

with Craig
Fatclimber 13/Nov/11 AltLd β

Lee good half way then ran out of energy, so I finished off.

with Lee
CraigMcAteer 13/Nov/11 2nd
with nick
mikeyg 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Rowan Mitchell 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Andre Steele
mattgrange 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Excellent varied climb, a bit tough and polished here and there. Be sure to head right at the top, and yes, bring lots of extenders!

Eike 01/Oct/11 Lead

Ran out of quickdraws 10 ft from the top, had to set up belay and then continue.

with Tom Blight
thomb 01/Oct/11 2nd
with Eike
jamespilgrim 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Hard for VS 4b, nice climbing though

with RobinL
tomhill#1 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Bobcat5060 04/Sep/11 2nd
with Barney Ashton
msoldn 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

very good route, better rock than on most routes on this crag, but then again, you never know when the next big block is going to fall down

with Sam
ElBarto 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Probably could lead this except for one section below the middle, still quite sustained. Will come back and do when I can lead 4c though as this is pretty hard for a 4b (not quite 4c though).

kiwi boy 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Lovely gear, superb position

with Mark Van, richard williams
martin one 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Neil Nand
Hidden 19/Aug/11 2nd rpt
fletch73 14/Aug/11 Lead
with goater
MD 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ian W, Ed
eduardo 06/Aug/11 -

Nice route, very sustained, 4c in places.

with Ian W, Mike Den
Hidden 28/Jul/11 Lead
localboy 26/Jul/11 2nd rpt

Easier the second time, and my ankle held out.

simonf 26/Jul/11 2nd
with Simon, Mike
Ruth ND 19/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Ian C
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
SharonC1604 11/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Monk 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing but plenty of suspect rock detracts from the experience. Very over-rated, in my opinion. Cardiac is much better.

with Matt Hartgrove
hobbitmat 10/Jul/11 2nd
with Monk
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 05/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Elena led.

with Elena Songprasert, Gary Lewin
masa-alpin 29/May/11 2nd β
with Zoe Proc, Ed P
colinkeb 20/May/11 2nd O/S
Didymus 19/May/11 2nd rpt

17 years later

with Nick
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/May/11 Lead O/S
just one more 13/May/11 Lead
with tony l
Goose4 04/May/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Polished but great, would have been a good deal easier if I was better at jamming.

with Stewart
Stewart Armstrong 24/Apr/11 -
with Ivan Bicknell
evilweed 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Sara Currie
peteruk 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
grumpyoldjanner 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Having seconded the route last year, went back to climb it on the lead.

with KDW
Shaky Dog 20/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Harry
WalnutHorse 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with steve tree
SGD 13/Mar/11 2nd

So polished that some of the foot holds positively shine at you.... very good route though

with Jonny WMC
Hidden 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Alasdair88 07/Mar/11 2nd O/S
AlexD 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

pretty nice, plenty of big footholds.

with Ceri
Ceridwen 06/Mar/11 2nd O/S

This is mostly 4b but there is a section which is more like 4c (maybe due to polish). Defo VS though, exactly what I'd expect of VS.

Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
bonelessivar ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 01/Jan/11 Lead rpt

Greasy and tricky. We felt we had to do something outdoor today though - to start the year properly.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 01/Jan/11 2nd
mrfeebus ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Chris Sansum 26/Dec/10 Lead rpt

Lots of snow at bottom on ground & first few ledges. A little ice but generally in good condition. Bet we were the only people out in the Wye Valley today! Wintour's Leap looked minging (covered in snow).

with Helen
Garron 28/Nov/10 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 27/Nov/10 2nd O/S

very cold! made it harder than it should be, i think

with gary burgess
katiep 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
mikespooner 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Lucy Emery
Robin Head 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
with Katie
jacobjlloyd 13/Nov/10 2nd β

Absolutely awesome! Best route I have ever done at the grade.

bpmclimb 30/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S
stephaneSi 22/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Paul Robertson 22/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Mark Davies PK 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Pumpy on the unfit arms and a bit sharp on the still slightly tender hands.

with Paul Robertson
Paul_southgate68 06/Aug/10 Lead O/S

awesome route...did in the rain! backed off the crux 3 times before i had a word with myself and committed,hahahaaaaa!! worth 4c?

with super gav
Bob M 01/Aug/10 Lead

Excellent. Sustained, good line, good gear, nice jamming.

Norman_P_W 01/Aug/10 2nd

Very good

Gregthebadger ?/Aug/10 2nd
lithos 17/Jul/10 2nd

polished but good

SteveK 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Rhys Jones
martinp 11/Jul/10 2nd
with Adam
AdamP 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Martin
Quirina 25/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 14/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 14/Jun/10 2nd
PaulWatson 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Nothing ultra hard, just totally relentless, tough 4b just keeps on coming all way to the top. Executed with determination rather than style. A tad shiney at the bottom, and a great juggy pull over move about 1/3 height - if you elect that option. Top Tip - take plenty of mid to large size gear and borrow some QDs.

with Dave P
stuart34 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/10 2nd
Rob Exile Ward 28/May/10 Lead O/S

Another repeat - 38 years later?! Definitely found it harder this time, though!

with Sam Ward
Hidden 26/May/10 Lead O/S
lauramfletcher 23/May/10 2nd O/S
d_meacher 18/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
aged_ape 18/May/10 Lead
with IH
Trisha Murphy 17/May/10 Lead O/S
grumpyoldjanner 08/May/10 2nd O/S
with Matt 'Bungle' Larkins
Jessie Rushbrooke 04/May/10 Lead O/S
with GF
climber sim ?/May/10 -
mike lawrence? 28/Apr/10 2nd
with James the Navigator, Colin
theotherpetehill 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S
dean79 18/Apr/10 2nd
marclloyd77 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Raff
sgl0jd 01/Mar/10 Lead
Jason Gotel ?/Mar/10 Lead
Library Claire 21/Feb/10 2nd dog
with Alan
simeclimb68 14/Feb/10 2nd rpt
with Tom Jewel
stvredmond 10/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Some heart racing moments there. 1st hold are all polished and greasy then i was a bit run out, to say the least, on the groove. Hard VS compared to VS from other crags in the area

jchenoweth 31/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Paul
Hidden 30/Jan/10 2nd
colkurtz 30/Jan/10 Lead
with Robb
suffolknick 17/Jan/10 2nd O/S

Great climb tho quite wet in the lower parts - it made a difficult vs feel like a single pitch epic!

with clams
clams ?/Jan/10 Lead rpt

Pretty wet but w/ some dry bits

with NB+Matt
Hidden ??/2010 -
mrfeebus ??/2010 -
Macca_7 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Excellent line that is quite steep to start and eases up the lovely groove to the top.

urbanmonkey 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Nick
andy dunn 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
eagleopus 20/Sep/09 2nd rpt
with Gareth
aged_ape 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with JC
Different Steve 16/Sep/09 AltLd rpt
with Clare
Marti999 22/Aug/09 Lead β
cas smerdon 21/Aug/09 2nd
with Nick
Ali.B ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Ollie B 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with G.Lewis
willjones ?/Jul/09 Lead O/S
spqr 28/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Ed Shaw
MikeC59 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
dj rivum 24/Jun/09 TR
joehanks61 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Different Steve 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Clio
Francois S 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/09 2nd dog
shoulders 13/Jun/09 Lead
with mikeshewring, jon shewring, dai
james.lane 31/May/09 Lead

fantastic climb

with guidedmountain
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd O/S
tobydunford 26/May/09 2nd rpt
jamie ward 26/May/09 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunford
chrisallan 25/May/09 Lead O/S
james.lane 11/May/09 Lead
Rob84 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Ed Hill
dswansonlow 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Patrick Timoney
patrick.timoney 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Dougie
Neil Stansbie ?/Apr/09 Lead
Tomprusk 10/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Should really be given 4C just for how greasy the first 10-15ft is, but good fantastic sustained climbing follows

with Dad
brady 21/Feb/09 Lead dog

glorious spring sunshine, rested on gear, gone soft and lardy over the winter!

with Micky
mickyconnor 21/Feb/09 2nd dog

Had to hang on the ropes to get the gear Steve had hung on out. Would I have made it without the rests? Who knows! Who cares! Vive la gratuite francaise!

with steve
bpmclimb 27/Jan/09 2nd rpt

By the time I set off, the bottom 15m or so was completely wet, and treacherously slippery. The drizzle wasn't wetting the upper groove, so that was more pleasant.

with Roger
garywong 06/Jan/09 2nd O/S
saz_b ??/2009 -
Goofyfoot ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Oct/08 Lead
mikeshewring 24/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Fatclimber 25/Aug/08 Lead dog
BruceW 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Brilliant route!

with Julian S.
Sam W 27/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
gareth r 29/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Hywel
eagleopus 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Gareth
DafSWMC 25/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Christian Reynish 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 22/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Bismarck
poey50 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Not too polished despite what guidebook says. Worth the three stars

with Chris W
Tim W 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
JimBee ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Ian Whitehead
Ing 11/May/08 Lead
with Hal
halhorner 10/May/08 2nd

Felt harder than on the lead last year!

with Ingrid Ferguson
just one more 10/May/08 Lead
with Max B
btc 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with elliot hunston
Derek Ryden 04/May/08 2nd O/S
with Slim, Andy Forbes
Hidden 25/Apr/08 2nd
tobydunford 15/Apr/08 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 15/Apr/08 2nd β
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
markfromstoke ??/2008 Lead
with Steve N
Chris Sansum 31/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Very nice line. Nice sustained jamming crack on the top half (several ledges for rests). Not as interesting a climb as Cadillac (which has a bit of everything on it), but a very nice line. Good gear throughout.

with Weilin Wang
dpmUK 21/Oct/07 2nd O/S
leigh 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Ed
Hidden 13/Oct/07 Lead
Ybot Htulk ?/Oct/07 -
thomasadixon 23/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Great climb, shame about the polish.

bpmclimb 26/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Clare
Mark_RMC 12/Aug/07 Lead

A "stonking" route (Ross). A sustained, technical VS up a corner. One of the best climbs I have ever done. Slowed down slightly by having to pause for additional quickdraws at halfway.

with Michelle
Circus 10/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
HuwT ?/Aug/07 2nd
drysori ?/Aug/07 Lead
with HuwT
halhorner 26/May/07 Lead
with Trevor Witts
Kirill 25/Mar/07 Lead O/S

my first VS lead

cem 25/Mar/07 2nd
with Pete Atkinson
Paz 28/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with SB
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
tom.e 03/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with Charlie Everett
gareth r 30/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Very sustained at 4b, with possibly a 4c on the overhang. Probably not quite HVS.

with Dave S
verticalsport 28/Aug/06 2nd rpt

Lead this a coupled of years ago. Third time climbed. Seconded first time, led second and tail end charlie this time! More polished than I remembered!

with Nick & Caroline
Andrew1 25/Jul/06 Lead
with Rachel Smith
localboy 20/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Quite strenuios for the grade

with Simon C
Hidden 02/Jul/06 Lead rpt
MikeC59 18/Jun/06 Lead
Mark Salter 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Boxy 07/May/06 Lead O/S
kyt341k 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Freidland
Ybot Htulk ?/Mar/06 2nd
with Pete
Hidden ??/2006 -
deklan ??/2006 -
Jim Slater ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Russ Riseborough
Hidden 11/Dec/05 Lead
givemetea ?/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Ann Chong
Fat Tim 29/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Laramadness 29/May/04 2nd β
alan rosier ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
bpmclimb 15/Sep/03 Lead rpt
with Clare
MikeC59 11/Jul/03 2nd
mikej 10/Jul/03 Lead
with R
Hidden 10/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/03 Lead
Jason Gotel ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Lansdown
Hidden 19/Mar/03 Lead O/S
greedo 01/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Andrew Worsley
tom.e ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Charlie Everett
bpmclimb 08/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with Clare
drysori ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S

My first lead.

with AdamW
Will Homoky 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Ned Atkins
BALD EAGLE 02/Jul/02 Lead
with Steve Green
pezzerrr 25/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/01 Lead O/S
simon kimber ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
kitkat78 26/Jul/00 Lead
with Hester C
lost.arrow 08/Jul/00 -
Roget 01/May/00 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden 21/Nov/99 Lead
nigehughes ?/Mar/99 Lead
with Kev Taylor
Nigel Coe 27/Feb/99 Lead
with Mike Harris
Rob Oram 24/May/98 2nd O/S
with Phil Milanes
liabilityliz 14/Jul/97 Lead
with Mark Trepte
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
mikej 07/Jul/95 Lead
with Simon Chapman
goi.ashmore 25/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
jim_randell 25/Mar/95 2nd rpt
with FW
Hidden 01/Oct/94 Lead O/S
jim_randell 18/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with SL2, WW
Didymus 30/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Marcus
Hidden 10/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/93 Lead
Backinthegame ?/Jul/93 Lead
with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/91 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Nigel R Lewis 17/Mar/91 Lead
with Gary Lewis
sdht ??/1991 -
James Moyle ?/Nov/90 TR
with J. Elliott
strapless ?/Sep/90 Lead
with Ju
mark-abz 25/Mar/90 2nd
with Ian D
John Roe ?/Feb/90 2nd
with Nige Hughes
nigehughes ?/Feb/90 Lead
with John Roe
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
Hidden 04/Mar/89 Lead
Hidden 14/Jan/89 2nd
GordonHart ??/1989 2nd O/S
with Dr. Jeremy
rogerskews 14/Nov/88 Lead
with Martin Coward
RichardMc 21/Aug/88 Lead O/S
with Geoff Dunne
Martin Bennett 06/Aug/88 -

Read of this 20 years ago and wanted to do it but had no idea where it was

with Woody
mikej 10/May/88 Lead
with Robert Smith
davemhart ??/1988 Lead O/S
sniffer ??/1988 2nd
with Chris Court
sadams 14/Aug/87 Solo
with Guy Townsend
tapley 04/Jul/87 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Tony Buckley ?/Jul/87 Lead
with Richard Brockman
Guy ??/1987 -
Jelly Mould Surfer ??/1987 Lead O/S
JamieAyres ?/May/86 Lead rpt

led half of it the year before (split into 2 pitches)

babymoac 10/Nov/85 2nd
with MTW
Hidden 15/Apr/85 Lead
jcw ??/1985 -
with Simon Donowho
wynaptomos ?/Jan/84 Lead O/S
The Reaper 10/Jul/83 2nd O/S
DDDD ??/1983 Lead O/S
Andy Chubb 05/May/81 Lead
with Geoff Barker
Ken Taylor 15/Feb/81 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Chris Terrey ?/Jan/80 2nd
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
Andy Chubb 22/Sep/79 Lead
with Roger
beaumap 04/Sep/77 AltLd
with Pete Coghill
Andy Chubb 29/Aug/76 Lead
with Andrew Collins
Hidden 20/Jun/76 2nd O/S
Steve Lewis 03/Oct/75 Lead O/S
with Pete
Nigel Bond 19/May/74 Lead
with Sandie
Andy Chubb ??/1974 2nd
with Pete Watts
Gordon Stainforth 21/Mar/71 2nd
with John Stainforth
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 139
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 134
Votes cast 110
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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