UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

30m.

Rockfax Description
Steady climbing gains a thought provoking final few metres. Start at the far right crack that begins on the higher section of the ledge. High in the grade. Follow the crack to a good small nut slot below the final section of the slab, which is climbed on spaced but positive holds. The thin crack on the right that leads into the parent line is In Her Eyes Direct Start VS 4c - a good variation. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The right hand crack. (You could move right on the horizontal crack to belay on the ridge.)

D Godfrey & G Croft 19/Oct/1969.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , I want a Pasty! , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

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User Date Notes
Fruit 9 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Run out at the top
Show beta
βeta: Run out at the top
Midlander 28 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Middle section couple tricky moves, smearing.
Show beta
βeta: Middle section couple tricky moves, smearing.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 58
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shangri-La

Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)

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