Rockfax Description
A quality excursion packed with hard climbing and topped off with a well-positioned steep slab. Start at the thin right-leaning crack as for Rustic Wall. Move up the thin crack-line to a peg and make a couple of hard moves up left to a good pocket. Climb up right past a bolt to gain and follow a rightward trending, strenuous thin diagonal crack to a good hidden hold. Make a powerful pull up to a short crack in the wall above to good holds. Gain the recess above and from its right side move up onto the slabby wall and traverse left above two bolts to a small niche. Climb the slabby wall boldly, first up and then right to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the thin crack in the center of the wall to a peg and make a reeeeach to a mondo jug in the pocket. Clip the bolt and storm up and slightly right to where two cracks meet in a Y shape. Take the crack on the right to where is ends then move up to a little cave. Have a breather, clip two stonking blots and teeter up the lovely slab above.

M J Crocker, M Ward 31/May/1986

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

pearson9596 29/Aug/16 Lead G/U
ian d f 29/Aug/16 Lead RP

On Michael's gear

Paul Baller 10/Aug/16 TR rpt

To twin bolts only and left hand fork of brazen hussy at top.

hankyc 16/May/16 Lead dog
Nick Russell 13/May/16 Lead dnf

Fell of the crux. Aided off the peg to get the bolt and lowered off this. Hard! But if that's the crux it would go with a couple more attempts. The sort of thing I'd expect to find on f7b.

Justin T 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Sort of retro-flash of previously dogged ascent I suppose. Remembered beta for bottom crux at least. Got very pumped lacing the gear in, ace top wall to finish.

with Sue
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd dog
Paul Baller 17/May/15 TR dog
with matt stevens
ferdia 17/May/15 2nd
with Burton
burto 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with ferdia
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
charles-green ??/2015 Lead RP

Pre placed gear

petegunn 30/Dec/14 TR

Reachy crux, pumpy!

with Davina
Hidden 30/Dec/14 TR
remus 26/Dec/14 Lead rpt

Just up to the bolts at the bottom of the slab, so Dylan and Hebe could have a top rope.

with Dylan Brown, Hebe Knowles
Jon_Warner 23/Aug/14 TR dog
with Jenni, Tom
Jon_Warner 17/Aug/14 2nd dog

Must lead.

with Jenni, Tom
Hidden 17/Aug/14 2nd RP
Hidden 14/Apr/14 -
remus 07/Nov/13 TR

Only as far as the cave. Felt mega easy, especially the crux at the top of the crack. Progress innit. Had a little play linking from the first good rest in to video kills via a short traverse, nice.

Hidden 19/Jul/13 2nd dog
Chubbard 09/Jul/13 TR dnf

F7b ish?

Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead dnf
eddy-on-the-rocks 23/Apr/13 Lead RP

Yay! At last.

thomasadixon 14/Aug/12 Lead dog

Found the crux really hard, managed it in isolation but not linked to anything. Will have to get some fitness and come back.

with Becca
Jon_Warner 03/Jun/12 TR dog

7a+/7b perhaps. with great gear. will do.

with Jenni
Justin T 15/Apr/12 Lead dog
Marti999 13/Mar/12 Lead β

Flash on the day been on it before but never had it clean till today, pumpy

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Mar/12 2nd dog

One fall just before the cave, ultra pumped!

Stone Muppet 10/Mar/12 TR dog
with am
Ged Desforges ??/2012 -

3 stars!!! Great climb, lumpy lower bit and a pretty lively slab at the top!

remus 27/Dec/11 TR rpt

Surprised I got this clean considering how weak and shit im feeling at the moment. Proper fight against the pump, nearly bailed the moves out of the cave as I didnt rest for long enough.

gazhbo 29/Aug/11 Lead rpt

So pumpy. Nearly fell when a bit of the crack fell off below my feet. Hated the slab. Great route

westyb3 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very humid!!! Good route but Im going to have to buy more chalk as I used so much on it.

with Heather Ogston
richsmithinbristol 03/Jul/11 Lead RP

Missed the 'hidden' jug! Climbed second go. Pumpy!!

pezzerrr 29/May/11 Lead O/S
remus 26/Apr/11 Lead RP

6 years after first trying it on a top rope. Felt pretty easy in the end, got it 2nd go. First go got to the cracks but tried to rest, didnt work and i pumped out going up the crack. Powered through to the cave of glory on the second go.

Spacetourist ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Crux is probably at the end of the crack near the start of the route but the time is spent mostly trying to work out the top slab... good route, kinda ruined by the bolts tho...

with Tom Rogers, Rosea
remus 18/Jan/11 TR dnf

Rest of the crag was sopping so dropped a rop down this and had a play around. Did the initial crack then had a rest (hadnt warmed up so didnt want to get flash pump.) Got the crux first go :) felt really strong on it, all that bouldering must be helping! Weather was amazing, had my top off, like summer all over again! Had good fun doing silly variations on the crux before heading home.

Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead dnf
Ricky Rocks 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 13/Apr/09 TR dog

Good gear most of the way

with Mark Glaister
eddy-on-the-rocks 08/Nov/08 Lead dog

With one fall. Bloody exciting top slab.

with Geoff
Hidden 06/May/08 2nd dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 08/Apr/06 TR dnf
Hidden ??/2005 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead β
Hidden 23/May/99 Lead RP
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High E6
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High 6c
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Style of ascent
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