25m.

Rockfax Description
A classic mixture of the bold and technical gives a memorable pitch. Start below a narrow ledge at 8m with an eco bolt just under its lip. Climb the smooth, pocketed initial wall to gain the bolt and narrow ledge at 8m - bold. Make an awkward mantleshelf on to the ledge, and from its left-hand side, make some fingery moves up and left to join the thin crack of Smashing of Amps and stick in some good nuts. Follow the crack to a resting ledge before tackling the thin continuation seam and crack via some technical and fingery moves to a lower-off just below the top. © Rockfax

P Smith, R Cary May/1983

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
guy xavier percival 13 Sep Lead RP The first bit is really Bold Moving from the second ledge was hard. Brilliant route
The first bit is really Bold Moving from the second ledge was hard. Brilliant route
Han French 7 Sep 2nd β glad to get this first go despite being on second. pretty spicy in terms of lead/belay
glad to get this first go despite being on second. pretty spicy in terms of lead/belay
Duncan Campbell 7 Sep Lead O/S Mega! Spicy getting to the bolt, then feels a little spicy getting into the crack, would be a winger to fall from there. Brilliant mantel onto the ledge. Do Flying Circus at Frogsmouth Quarry as training for this. Not over til you clip the lower-off. A great bold technician’s Route.
Mega! Spicy getting to the bolt, then feels a little spicy getting into the crack, would be a winger to fall from there. Brilliant mantel onto the ledge. Do Flying Circus at Frogsmouth Quarry as training for this. Not over til you clip the lower-off. A great bold technician’s Route.
JendeHoxar 28 Jul 2nd β
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 28 Jul Lead O/S Desperate in my current eyes-on-stalks-9-days-on state
Desperate in my current eyes-on-stalks-9-days-on state
Stanners 18 Jul Lead O/S A sensational E5. Chuffed to bits to manage this after belaying Matt on it a few years ago.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
A sensational E5. Chuffed to bits to manage this after belaying Matt on it a few years ago.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
ian d f 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S I was wavering on the last move. I recall top-roping the first bit 10 years ago as a kid, but I think it still felt like an OS
I was wavering on the last move. I recall top-roping the first bit 10 years ago as a kid, but I think it still felt like an OS
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 2nd
Eduardo Martinez 14 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Standing on the mantel shelf ledge there is an obvious gear placement but couldn't get any wires to stay in (ineptitude, blown placement or micro cam, perhaps?), so I clipped the ancient bolts down L and the bolt R. Top headwall not too hard.
Standing on the mantel shelf ledge there is an obvious gear placement but couldn't get any wires to stay in (ineptitude, blown placement or micro cam, perhaps?), so I clipped the ancient bolts down L and the bolt R. Top headwall not too hard.
Russell Blackaller 6 May, 2017 Lead G/U Brilliant. Fell off (what I thought was) the crux last time I tried this in 2015. Glad to finish it today.
Brilliant. Fell off (what I thought was) the crux last time I tried this in 2015. Glad to finish it today.
Hidden 6 May, 2017 2nd
James Smith 26 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S
with Will Bristol
with Will Bristol
WillAndrew 26 Feb, 2017 2nd dog
gazhbo 18 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 24 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Got sucked left of the final crack by the belay, pulled a hold off, fell, gear popped and found myself next to Si. Gutted. Gaz stripped it, then redpointed it placing gear on lead without any problems. Great route with bags of character! First E5.
with brices
Got sucked left of the final crack by the belay, pulled a hold off, fell, gear popped and found myself next to Si. Gutted. Gaz stripped it, then redpointed it placing gear on lead without any problems. Great route with bags of character! First E5.
with brices
Paul Baller 17 Oct, 2015 TR O/S
Bristoldave 11 Oct, 2015 Lead β Put a mat below the start.
with long
Put a mat below the start.
with long
burto 17 May, 2015 2nd
with ferdia
with ferdia
ferdia 17 May, 2015 Lead O/S Not too bold after first bolt
with burto
Not too bold after first bolt
with burto
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
Ged Desforges ??, 2015 Lead Very good. Probably 2 stars rather than 3. Some pretty tough moves with good rests in between
Very good. Probably 2 stars rather than 3. Some pretty tough moves with good rests in between
Hidden 18 Jul, 2013 TR dog
thomasadixon 23 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Class, top crux felt tough and went on longer than I was expecting.
Class, top crux felt tough and went on longer than I was expecting.
Hidden 31 Jul, 2011 2nd
Justin T 31 Jul, 2011 Lead dog Clean to last gear before lower-off - desperate top, really good climbing, very exciting, fantastic route!
Clean to last gear before lower-off - desperate top, really good climbing, very exciting, fantastic route!
richsmithinbristol ?Jul, 2011 2nd
with billb
with billb
billb ?Jul, 2011 Lead Onsighted to 2 metres before the chain and came off due to dirty greasy holds. Otherwise brilliant route
Onsighted to 2 metres before the chain and came off due to dirty greasy holds. Otherwise brilliant route
pezzerrr 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
Gibbo 30 Aug, 2010 TR
with Pete Milner, Ollie Keynes
with Pete Milner, Ollie Keynes
Marti999 12 May, 2009 Lead RP headpoint.
headpoint.
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden 5 Sep, 2006 TR RP
KRB 27 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S Topout crack was dirty but otherwise a good route.
with Martin Bridges
Topout crack was dirty but otherwise a good route.
with Martin Bridges
rayles 3 Sep, 2002 TR O/S
with Katie
with Katie
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
John Southworth 20 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
with Rob Kennard
with Rob Kennard
Hidden ??, 1998 2nd
Glenn Sutcliffe ?Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
with Ian Parsons
with Ian Parsons
Steve Neads 29 Oct, 1995 TR half way only!
with Ed R
half way only!
with Ed R
Moosifer ?Jun, 1994 TR RP
Hidden ??, 1991 TR
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Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
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Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set