Rockfax Description
A classic mixture of the bold and technical gives a memorable pitch. Start below a narrow ledge at 8m with an eco bolt just under its lip. Climb the smooth, pocketed initial wall to gain the bolt and narrow ledge at 8m - bold. Make an awkward mantleshelf on to the ledge, and from its left-hand side, make some fingery moves up and left to join the thin crack of Smashing of Amps and stick in some good nuts. Follow the crack to a resting ledge before tackling the thin continuation seam and crack via some technical and fingery moves to a lower-off just below the top. © Rockfax

P Smith, R Cary May/1983

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Eduardo Martinez 14/Aug Lead O/S

Standing on the mantel shelf ledge there is an obvious gear placement but couldn't get any wires to stay in (ineptitude, blown placement or micro cam, perhaps?), so I clipped the ancient bolts down L and the bolt R. Top headwall not too hard.

R2B 06/May Lead G/U

Brilliant. Fell off (what I thought was) the crux last time I tried this in 2015. Glad to finish it today.

misterb 06/May 2nd

rather hard top wall otherwise quite amenable, Vgood lead from the russwad

with russ
James S 26/Feb Lead O/S
with Will Bristol
WillAndrew 26/Feb 2nd dog
gazhbo 18/Jun/16 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 24/Apr/16 Lead RP

Got sucked left of the final crack by the belay, pulled a hold off, fell, gear popped and found myself next to Si. Gutted. Gaz stripped it, then redpointed it placing gear on lead without any problems. Great route with bags of character! First E5.

with brices
Paul Baller 17/Oct/15 TR O/S
Bristoldave 11/Oct/15 Lead β

Put a mat below the start.

with douglas
burto 17/May/15 2nd
with ferdia
ferdia 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Not too bold after first bolt

Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Ged Desforges ??/2015 Lead

Very good. Probably 2 stars rather than 3. Some pretty tough moves with good rests in between

Hidden 18/Jul/13 TR dog
thomasadixon 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Class, top crux felt tough and went on longer than I was expecting.

with Becca
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd
Justin T 31/Jul/11 Lead dog

Clean to last gear before lower-off - desperate top, really good climbing, very exciting, fantastic route!

with Cherry
richsmithinbristol ?/Jul/11 2nd
billb ?/Jul/11 Lead

Onsighted to 2 metres before the chain and came off due to dirty greasy holds. Otherwise brilliant route

pezzerrr 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Gibbo 30/Aug/10 TR
with Pete Milner, Ollie Keynes
Marti999 12/May/09 Lead RP


ian d f ??/2008 TR dog
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 05/Sep/06 TR RP
KRB 27/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Topout crack was dirty but otherwise a good route.

with Martin Bridges
rapidrich 03/Sep/02 TR O/S
with Katie
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
John Southworth 20/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Rob Kennard
Hidden ??/1998 2nd
Hidden ??/1991 TR
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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