350m.

Rockfax Description
III, 350m, 3 - 5 hours. A real classic, and a popular 'first alpine north face'. The face is often icy in mid-winter whilst in spring it is regularly skied and can be very snowy. (It is worth pausing on the top snowfield to consider how glad you are to have crampons on instead of skis!) The best climbing conditions are usually found in June and early July before the face gets too dry and icy in the height of the summer heat. Be aware that the face suffers from rockfall when the sun hits the upper slopes, so an early, pre-dawn start is essential.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux and descend west to pass under the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Continue in this direction over the Col d'Entrèves and traverse around under the face - 1 hour from Helbronner lift.
1) Cross the bergschrund (often the crux of the route!) on the right-hand side of the face.
2) Climb the lower snow slope (45 degrees) to reach the foot of the steep gully that splits the face and usually forms the crux of the route.
3) In good conditions the gully will present minimal difficulty and is enjoyable Scottish grade III ice. It can, however, be calf-burning black ice, albeit not too technically difficult. There are intermediate belays on the banks of the gully.
4) Exit the gully by a step right onto the main face and a peg belay. The upper face is straightforward (50 - 55 degrees) but can be difficult to protect in snowy conditions, and it is necessary to maintain concentration despite inevitable fatigue.
5) At the top of the face, follow the excellent airy ridge to a short downclimb and then a mixed traverse around to Southeast Ridge. Follow this to the summit.
Descent - Down the Southeast Ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The North Face is about 400 m high (10 to 12 pitches) with ice continuously up to 60° with an average of 52°.
In the middle the face narrows to an icy couloir and then opens again for the upper slopes. It is here that it steepens up to 60°.
It is best to stay at the right side close to the rocks to get good belay's.
The summit is normally reached by going left of the rocks and joining the normal route over the south-east ridge

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
James Rigby 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Early start to allow plenty of time before sun hit
with Conor
Early start to allow plenty of time before sun hit
with Conor
cacheson 27 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Learned some lessons about complacency. Boiler plate ice in the gully, I was running it out to try to save time and hit some slush, went for quite a slide. Put the screws in every 2 metres after that.
with CalumI
Learned some lessons about complacency. Boiler plate ice in the gully, I was running it out to try to save time and hit some slush, went for quite a slide. Put the screws in every 2 metres after that.
with CalumI
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 26 Jun, 2018 Lead getting dry in middle
with Olivia
getting dry in middle
with Olivia
Hidden 5 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 -
joeflan 22 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Deep soft snow in places tough breaking trail but great day out.
with fraser scott, James scott
Deep soft snow in places tough breaking trail but great day out.
with fraser scott, James scott
davidswannn 12 May, 2018 AltLd
Super-Afro 27 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Climbed up half way but conditions weren't good so bailed.
with Matt Britz, Tom MIA
Climbed up half way but conditions weren't good so bailed.
with Matt Britz, Tom MIA
Rob Royle 14 Apr, 2017 2nd Great day, fantastic conditions on the face, moved together for the whole route. Bottom to summit in 2hrs 10min!
with Mountain Guide
Great day, fantastic conditions on the face, moved together for the whole route. Bottom to summit in 2hrs 10min!
with Mountain Guide
janegallwey 9 Jan, 2017 AltLd
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
piken 29 Dec, 2016 AltLd 8.30 cable car, 9.40 at the berg, 11.30 at the summit, 12:50 drinking beer. Great day
8.30 cable car, 9.40 at the berg, 11.30 at the summit, 12:50 drinking beer. Great day
Mr. K 28 Dec, 2016 AltLd Alt leads on the two middle chimney pitches, otherwise moving together. Difficult snow and ice conditions on the upper snowfield, that was the crux on the day.
with figfour
Alt leads on the two middle chimney pitches, otherwise moving together. Difficult snow and ice conditions on the upper snowfield, that was the crux on the day.
with figfour
bencoope 18 Dec, 2016 Lead
andymcronald 16 Dec, 2016 2nd
Rob Pitt 4 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Guy, Lou
with Guy, Lou
Hidden 4 Oct, 2016 -
Hidden 27 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Mr Fuller 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Big objective ticked! Brilliant route, continuous interest. Moved together on Scottish II for approx 100 m, then 150 m Scottish II/III and then 50 m of Scottish III/IV, before further 150 m of Scottish II (approximately!).
with Scott
Big objective ticked! Brilliant route, continuous interest. Moved together on Scottish II for approx 100 m, then 150 m Scottish II/III and then 50 m of Scottish III/IV, before further 150 m of Scottish II (approximately!).
with Scott
Scott Anderson 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd My first North Face and the best mountain route I've ever done. Exceptional!
with Matt
My first North Face and the best mountain route I've ever done. Exceptional!
with Matt
Keith Lambley 4 Jul, 2016 -
with Kate R
with Kate R
Rhys Deane ?Jul, 2016 - Great route, Delayed starting route after finding fresh avalanche at base of route and had difficultly crossing in pitch black.
with Nikos Roidos
Great route, Delayed starting route after finding fresh avalanche at base of route and had difficultly crossing in pitch black.
with Nikos Roidos
Nemo9 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd Crux was getting over bergshrund as snow wasn't frozen. Good ice in narrows gave a couple of good pitches by continuing up to the left before traversing on to upper snow field.
with Col
Crux was getting over bergshrund as snow wasn't frozen. Good ice in narrows gave a couple of good pitches by continuing up to the left before traversing on to upper snow field.
with Col
calumhicks 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Simply awesome. We had amazing weather for both the bivy and climb
Simply awesome. We had amazing weather for both the bivy and climb
Hugh Simons 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together the whole way. Started climbing at 05.30, topped out at 8.00am. Stunning day. Great route, one to remember.
Moved together the whole way. Started climbing at 05.30, topped out at 8.00am. Stunning day. Great route, one to remember.
ndraper1 28 Jan, 2016 AltLd Attempting 'Marite' (90deg M7) which heades directly up from the left of the snow field, but bailed due to loose, chossy summer conditions.
with Mike
Attempting 'Marite' (90deg M7) which heades directly up from the left of the snow field, but bailed due to loose, chossy summer conditions.
with Mike
Andy Lagan 27 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
paulmck 17 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with Neil Johnston
with Neil Johnston
Hidden 12 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
danfitz 13 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete Houghton
with Pete Houghton
Pete Houghton 13 Apr, 2015 AltLd Left skis at the bottom, great climbing on the north face, rapped the Gervasutti and walked back to our skis. Missed the last bubble to Montenvers by about twelve minutes, walked back down to Cham on the 80% dry James Bond trail. Solid exercise, top day out.
with Dan Fitzgerald
Left skis at the bottom, great climbing on the north face, rapped the Gervasutti and walked back to our skis. Missed the last bubble to Montenvers by about twelve minutes, walked back down to Cham on the 80% dry James Bond trail. Solid exercise, top day out.
with Dan Fitzgerald
robgixer 28 Mar, 2015 AltLd
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
Big Lee 28 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Lower face was holding some soft snow, which made going slow, but the ice in the couloir was good and the upper face neve was excellent. Continued to the top.
Lower face was holding some soft snow, which made going slow, but the ice in the couloir was good and the upper face neve was excellent. Continued to the top.
joelevanschamonix ??, 2015 -
Hidden 31 Oct, 2014 AltLd
Dougbart 30 Oct, 2014 -
with Iain
with Iain
winter hill1 24 Sep, 2014 -
Alpenglow 9 Sep, 2014 AltLd Soloed the lower section and pitched most of the rest. Caught out in a small snowstorm. On the descent, we had to leave a rope after it got stuck whilst abbing down the couloir - bit of an epic!
with V11
Soloed the lower section and pitched most of the rest. Caught out in a small snowstorm. On the descent, we had to leave a rope after it got stuck whilst abbing down the couloir - bit of an epic!
with V11
wilkinscl 4 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with morpcat
with morpcat
morpcat 4 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S As two ropes of two. Clagged in at the top and the route around the back to the summit wasn't tracked in and immediately obvious, which led to some interesting route-finding decisions.
As two ropes of two. Clagged in at the top and the route around the back to the summit wasn't tracked in and immediately obvious, which led to some interesting route-finding decisions.
7toes 4 Sep, 2014 -
with DamianR
with DamianR
Gumery 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Caroline
with Caroline
Callum Smith 22 Aug, 2014 AltLd Pitched middle, went left up gully to final snowfield. Wicked conditions. ��
Pitched middle, went left up gully to final snowfield. Wicked conditions. ��
JHolland 21 Aug, 2014 -
Tom Campbell 21 Aug, 2014 - snowy
snowy
David Staples 18 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd
alastairbegley 12 Aug, 2014 AltLd First alpine north face, fantastic route! Lots of ice which made the climbing great fun. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/tour-ronde-north-face/
with Slick
First alpine north face, fantastic route! Lots of ice which made the climbing great fun. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/08/tour-ronde-north-face/
with Slick
Slick 12 Aug, 2014 AltLd
mim tiller 12 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
darcan 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Bristol_Quornstar 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Paolo Intropido
with Paolo Intropido
Roberttaylor 6 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S Perfect conditions. Started at 0400, 1h40m from bergschrund to summit. Descended normal route then E face.
Perfect conditions. Started at 0400, 1h40m from bergschrund to summit. Descended normal route then E face.
Hidden 16 Jul, 2014 Solo
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 AltLd
HosteDenis ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
niallsash 18 Jun, 2014 -
Olli-C 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lots of spindrift,ice was a little mushy at times. Took a gully to the left after the crux pitches, this felt more difficult.
with joe.91
Lots of spindrift,ice was a little mushy at times. Took a gully to the left after the crux pitches, this felt more difficult.
with joe.91
joe.91 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Great climb, long day. 12hr from Perroux hut back to the midi. Ice rather rotten in places with loads of spindrift coming down the face.
with Olli-C
Great climb, long day. 12hr from Perroux hut back to the midi. Ice rather rotten in places with loads of spindrift coming down the face.
with Olli-C
Just Will 6 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Pretty poor ice conditions definitely raised the grade a little bit - particularly on the top slope. We soloed the bottom slope, pitched the funnel, soloed half the top face and then put in a couple of screws and climbed 2 pitches to the top.
with matt bazire
Pretty poor ice conditions definitely raised the grade a little bit - particularly on the top slope. We soloed the bottom slope, pitched the funnel, soloed half the top face and then put in a couple of screws and climbed 2 pitches to the top.
with matt bazire
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 -
ndraper1 18 May, 2014 AltLd Climbed the difficulties then abbed back to the initial slope due to textbook thickening clouds. Skied the lower steeps in good condition.
with Joel Evans
Climbed the difficulties then abbed back to the initial slope due to textbook thickening clouds. Skied the lower steeps in good condition.
with Joel Evans
edek_w 17 Mar, 2014 - Entire face in black ice. Hard climbing insted of nice excursion.
with Blazej
Entire face in black ice. Hard climbing insted of nice excursion.
with Blazej
mike mo ??, 2014 -
joelevanschamonix 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd β http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/07/11/tour-ronde-north-face-3792m/
with alex marchant
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2013/07/11/tour-ronde-north-face-3792m/
with alex marchant
James_L88 10 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Descended the normal route.
Descended the normal route.
Rafal Malczyk 5 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Efe Tunc
with Efe Tunc
efetunc 5 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Perfect conditions on the north face: we simul-climbed with 60m rope stretched in between but set up anchors to belay after difficult sections to protect the second. We did not go through the in-situ bolts after crux but instead climbed a steep ice gully to reach the upper slope. Mushy conditions on the way down and hazardous Japanese guided group on normal route...
Perfect conditions on the north face: we simul-climbed with 60m rope stretched in between but set up anchors to belay after difficult sections to protect the second. We did not go through the in-situ bolts after crux but instead climbed a steep ice gully to reach the upper slope. Mushy conditions on the way down and hazardous Japanese guided group on normal route...
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
DigitalSteak 30 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S After being snowed in at the Torino for 2 days, we'd almost given up hope - then the weather broke for stunning conditions throughout. Moved together the whole way
After being snowed in at the Torino for 2 days, we'd almost given up hope - then the weather broke for stunning conditions throughout. Moved together the whole way
GuitarGenius92 27 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with will smith
with will smith
ray.allwood 22 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
with Andy Perkins (Guide)
with Andy Perkins (Guide)
Jbw 6 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Moved together except 2 pitches in the narrow gully. Upper field perfect snow ice, started plating towards the summit. Finished in the dark and camped where we'd left our skis at the base.
with Mehdi Cherfaoui
Moved together except 2 pitches in the narrow gully. Upper field perfect snow ice, started plating towards the summit. Finished in the dark and camped where we'd left our skis at the base.
with Mehdi Cherfaoui
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
Tobias at Home ??, 2013 -
monsteratt 11 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Moved together for whole route. Tom lead the crux pitches. Found the snow/ice very hard work. Felt much more at home on the final rock pitch. Turned into a long day (14 hours) with walk back across the vallee blanche. Exhausted!
with Tom
Moved together for whole route. Tom lead the crux pitches. Found the snow/ice very hard work. Felt much more at home on the final rock pitch. Turned into a long day (14 hours) with walk back across the vallee blanche. Exhausted!
with Tom
demarcation86 11 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Long day as we went back to the Cosmiques Hut, according to guardian it is quicker to go back to the Torino and take the bus round to Chamonix. Cool route though, crux was probably the bergschrund. We took the direct finish.
Long day as we went back to the Cosmiques Hut, according to guardian it is quicker to go back to the Torino and take the bus round to Chamonix. Cool route though, crux was probably the bergschrund. We took the direct finish.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 -
Hidden 23 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
mark88 18 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf Moved together, had to back off halfway up due to bad weather.
with Merlin Andrew
Moved together, had to back off halfway up due to bad weather.
with Merlin Andrew
Hidden ?Feb, 2012 AltLd
nvalentine760 15 Sep, 2011 AltLd
with danJBA
with danJBA
danJBA 15 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Mixed variation by trending left near top
Mixed variation by trending left near top
Hidden 11 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Camdenelectric 7 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
John sealey 2 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot 1 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with ben_lea
with ben_lea
minch ?Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Dunx 31 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Rob Stokes, Colin
with Rob Stokes, Colin
Hidden 27 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Timo Austino 16 Jul, 2011 Lead Great route - amazing experience. Camped in the Col before the Torino Hut - got lost on the way to the bottom of the route then simu climbed in 2hrs 45..descent is ok but the short descent looked a bit iffy so opted for the longer route back along the ridge which has a great slab / handrail section... In true style my short cut got us lost on the way back too (whoops whoop but at least we checked out the descent for the entenver ridge..) Thanks Nat :)
with Nats
Great route - amazing experience. Camped in the Col before the Torino Hut - got lost on the way to the bottom of the route then simu climbed in 2hrs 45..descent is ok but the short descent looked a bit iffy so opted for the longer route back along the ridge which has a great slab / handrail section... In true style my short cut got us lost on the way back too (whoops whoop but at least we checked out the descent for the entenver ridge..) Thanks Nat :)
with Nats
stratfol 2 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Gill's first ice climb, she did not want to move together. Led the face in 8 pitches. Easy 50-60' snow-ice in perfect nick.
with Gill Byrne
Gill's first ice climb, she did not want to move together. Led the face in 8 pitches. Easy 50-60' snow-ice in perfect nick.
with Gill Byrne
Hidden 27 Jun, 2011 Solo O/S
Jack Loftus 27 Jun, 2011 Solo
with Lew13
with Lew13
inuklm 26 Jun, 2011 -
with Kilian
with Kilian
Chris Sieradzki 14 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Koen Litjens
with Koen Litjens
Jacob Jutrem 4 Jun, 2011 AltLd
BorisVBlade 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Sam Thompson
with Sam Thompson
Hidden 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Si 19 Mar, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 12 Feb, 2011 Lead
loic.menzies ?Feb, 2011 AltLd
with John roberts
with John roberts
maxf ?Feb, 2011 -
maxf ?Feb, 2011 -
Ally Baba 23 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Qulity route, super easy.
with Kim
Qulity route, super easy.
with Kim
Hidden 11 Sep, 2010 Lead
James Smith 10 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
carl_123 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
yellow ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 13 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 -
Dave Almond 17 Mar, 2010 Solo
Tom Livingstone ?Mar, 2010 -
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
mike.moss ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Richard
with Richard
Guy Wilson ??, 2010 -
clams ??, 2010 -
with Litros
with Litros
rholdswo ?Aug, 2009 2nd
Misha 31 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Good conditions yet no one else on the route. Started at 6am and took three and a half hours on the snow and ice section. Simulclimbed all the way with 25 metres of rope out, good screws and the odd nut/friend in the rocks to the side, two belays to swap leads. Direct finish over the summit rock buttress.
Good conditions yet no one else on the route. Started at 6am and took three and a half hours on the snow and ice section. Simulclimbed all the way with 25 metres of rope out, good screws and the odd nut/friend in the rocks to the side, two belays to swap leads. Direct finish over the summit rock buttress.
Stuart Johnston ?Jul, 2009 AltLd
davepc ?Jul, 2009 AltLd
with misha
with misha
Jim Brooke 23 May, 2009 - 3:30 from camp to summit, mostly moving together, with a pitch on the steep bit and another for the final rope length
3:30 from camp to summit, mostly moving together, with a pitch on the steep bit and another for the final rope length
mathquirk 23 May, 2009 Lead Perfect conditions and weather from camp below the face.
with Jim Brooke
Perfect conditions and weather from camp below the face.
with Jim Brooke
Ben Briggs ?May, 2009 Solo O/S Climbed the face and skied back down it.
with Brendan
Climbed the face and skied back down it.
with Brendan
sgl 9 Apr, 2009 Solo
Hidden 23 Mar, 2009 Lead
Tobias at Home 16 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Brian
with Brian
Daniel Wicks 1 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 1 Jul, 2008 Lead
with Dan Wicks
with Dan Wicks
Dave Searle ?Jul, 2008 Solo
Adam Booth 19 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 19 Jun, 2008 AltLd
Dinger 19 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Martin Heaton
with Martin Heaton
galpinos 7 Sep, 2007 AltLd
with Tim, Tim & Chris
with Tim, Tim & Chris
HimTiggins 7 Sep, 2007 -
Rob84 25 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Tom
with Tom
Hidden 7 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
dror ?Jul, 2007 -
kevburr 20 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
with Roger Payne
with Roger Payne
alpinist63 3 Feb, 2007 -
Bristoldave ??, 2007 -
with long
with long
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2006 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
David Horwood 28 Aug, 2006 -
nickdonohue ?Jun, 2006 Lead
with Dan Pike
with Dan Pike
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Graham at Aston ?Jul, 2004 - Stunning climb, beautiful situation. One I had always wanted to do. Climbed moving together with a couple of ice screws placed just above the narrows and a couple more on the hard ice on the upper ice field field. Started at 2am from the Torino Hur and down before the snow was softened on the descent. We could hear British parties on the face as we crossed the Valley Blanche to the Midi - far too late to be on the route and they must have had a torrid time.
Stunning climb, beautiful situation. One I had always wanted to do. Climbed moving together with a couple of ice screws placed just above the narrows and a couple more on the hard ice on the upper ice field field. Started at 2am from the Torino Hur and down before the snow was softened on the descent. We could hear British parties on the face as we crossed the Valley Blanche to the Midi - far too late to be on the route and they must have had a torrid time.
liz j ?Sep, 2002 -
with neil brodie
with neil brodie
Alpandy ?Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Matt Owen
with Matt Owen
Mark Stevenson 31 Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Tim Rook
with Tim Rook
Hidden ?Aug, 2000 2nd
Hidden 31 Jul, 1999 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1999 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
with riccardo corbini
with riccardo corbini
Michael ?Aug, 1996 -
Hidden 31 Jul, 1996 Solo
tompercy 17 Jul, 1995 AltLd
with Amos Preminger
with Amos Preminger
crossleysm 6 Apr, 1995 AltLd
with Rob Cook
with Rob Cook
SB_NWUK_99 ??, 1990 Lead O/S Climbed without hiring a mountain guide.
Climbed without hiring a mountain guide.
pingora 4 Aug, 1989 Solo
davemhart ?Aug, 1989 AltLd O/S
pauldrew ?Jul, 1988 AltLd First longer ice face climb - good conditions.
with John Leeming
First longer ice face climb - good conditions.
with John Leeming
Hidden ?Jul, 1987 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 1986 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??, 1986 AltLd
thlcr1 ?Sep, 1985 AltLd No problems over bergschrund then a rope length of reasonable neve. After that changed to rock hard black ice (argh the burn!) Rock hard ice all the way through the narrows as well so felt like 2-3 rope lengths of continuous Scottish grade III. Upper face melting grapple on top of more black ice. No way the melting layer could hold your weight but did a grand job of stopping axe and crampons from penetrating the ice. Big storm rolled in just as we hit the summit and had an epic on the descent. All in all turned out to be a tough day and much harder than I was expecting.
No problems over bergschrund then a rope length of reasonable neve. After that changed to rock hard black ice (argh the burn!) Rock hard ice all the way through the narrows as well so felt like 2-3 rope lengths of continuous Scottish grade III. Upper face melting grapple on top of more black ice. No way the melting layer could hold your weight but did a grand job of stopping axe and crampons from penetrating the ice. Big storm rolled in just as we hit the summit and had an epic on the descent. All in all turned out to be a tough day and much harder than I was expecting.
UKB Shark 18 Aug, 1985 AltLd
with Phill Dickens
with Phill Dickens
Gerard DANTEC ?Jul, 1985 Lead
with Pierre FAVRET
with Pierre FAVRET
Hidden ?Jul, 1985 Solo O/S
Robmwatt ??, 1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
Hidden ?Oct, 1983 -
Neil McA 22 Aug, 1982 AltLd
with Tom Benson, Steve Hartland
with Tom Benson, Steve Hartland
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1979 -
nickprior ?Jun, 1978 -
with Hugo Iffla
with Hugo Iffla
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Aug, 1977 AltLd
with Dorothy Bogg
with Dorothy Bogg
beaumap ?Aug, 1977 2nd
with Mich Tighe, Mick
with Mich Tighe, Mick
Marcus ??, 1977 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1976 AltLd
Derek Ryden 17 Aug, 1975 -
with John Kirk
with John Kirk
uphillnow ??, 1966 Lead
with charlie Tanner
with charlie Tanner
oldmanofmow ?Jul, 1961 -
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High D
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Votes cast 17
High 4
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High 3
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High 2
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Votes cast 2
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set