UKC

Contributed by Danny V Apr/25 - This public ticklist has been seen 457 times

Warm up and acclimatise.

Rest and recovery activities between big climbs:
- Good sleep
- Eat healthily
- Read, watch films
- Meal prep
- Swimming pool
- Visit Annecy

Frendo Spur:
Prioritise conditions for good snow/ice rather than dry rock, happy to climb some mixed. Keen to bivvy at the snow ledge rather than rushing to climb the route in a day and finishing on mushy snow. Climb the rock section from the Plan lift on day 1 and bivvy below the snow arete. Climb the snow and ice section early on day 2.

Helbronner expedition:
Approach Dent du Geant and bivvy on Salle Manger. Dent du Geant North Ridge, Rochefort Ridge. Start Grandes Jorasses traverse. Bivvy at Col des Grandes Jorasses, hut temporarily out of use. Continue traverse and descend South Face.

Aiguille Verte via Brown-Patey:
Big, stretch route. Will need to be well warmed up and acclimatised.
Approach Aiguille Sans Nom from Montenvers, cross Mer de Glace and contour under Les Drus. Climb rock section of Brown Patey and bivvy before the ice section. Finish route to the summit of Aiguille Verte and descend either Whymper Couloir or Moine Ridge (hopefully wait until Whymper is in good condition).

Mont Blanc:
After well acclimated and rested with good conditions, keen for a big, high route.

upper slopes  © jogle03
upper slopes
© jogle03, Jul 2015

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st finnmmac 3% 29 Jun
1st Hidden 3% 5 Jul

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Distribution of grades - Alpine

Top 12 photos of this ticklist

Innominata © JohnG

Innominata Ridge
Innominata
© JohnG

Tom and Iain on the atmospheric slab pitch of Nabot-Leon © jonesdwill

Nabot-Léon
Tom and Iain on the atmospheric slab pitch of Nabot-Leon
© jonesdwill

Danny following on a Midi S Face classic. © Kevin Avery

Rébuffat-Baquet
Danny following on a Midi S Face classic.
© Kevin Avery

Freja on the Traverse of the Jorasses © Hamish Frost

Grandes Jorasses Traverse
Freja on the Traverse of the Jorasses
© Hamish Frost

Almost at the finish! © walts4

Contamine Route
Almost at the finish!
© walts4

Clouds rolling over the Arête du Diable © Hamish Frost

Arête du Diable Traverse
Clouds rolling over the Arête du Diable
© Hamish Frost

Exposed climbing on the immaculate 50m wall pitch, Contamine Route, Point Lachenal. © gav p

Contamine Route
Exposed climbing on the immaculate 50m wall pitch, Contamine Route, Point Lachenal.
© gav p

Valentine and Masha preparing to leave the bivouac on the Innominata Ridge © Ben Tibbetts

Innominata Ridge
Valentine and Masha preparing to leave the bivouac on the Innominata Ridge
© Ben Tibbetts

Chere Couloir © andymoin

Chèré Couloir
Chere Couloir
© andymoin

Low down on the Kuffner © HarryB

Kuffner Ridge
Low down on the Kuffner
© HarryB

Victor Saunders under the influence of spindrift on the Migot Spur... © Ben Tibbetts

Migot Spur
Victor Saunders under the influence of spindrift on the Migot Spur...
© Ben Tibbetts

Razor pitch © Aled Williams

South-southeast Arête (Chapelle de la Gliere)
Razor pitch
© Aled Williams


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
WARM UP AND ACCLIMATISE
Migot Spur D- 3 *** 176 500m Aiguille du...
Chèré Couloir D 4 *** 786 350m Mont Blanc du Tacul
Contamine-Grisolle AD 3 ** 300 350m Mont Blanc du Tacul
Midi-Plan Traverse AD *** 582 ? Aiguille du Plan
South-southeast Arête (Chapelle de la Gliere) D+ 6a *** 864 400m • 14 Aiguilles Rouges
FRENDO
Frendo Spur D+ 4 *** 426 1,200m Aiguille du Midi
HELBRONNER EXPEDITION
Dent du Géant summit 208 4,013m Dent du Geant
The Rochefort Ridge AD 2 *** 217 ? Aiguille de...
Grandes Jorasses Traverse D 5a *** 49 ? • 2 Grandes Jorasses
South Face AD+ 2 * 30 ? Grandes Jorasses
OTHER HELBRONNER ROUTES
North Face D 3 *** 287 350m Tour Ronde
Rebuffat Gully TD ** 37 350m Tour Ronde
Arête du Diable Traverse D+ 5c *** 94 600m Mont Blanc du Tacul
Kuffner Ridge D 4c *** 242 700m Mont Maudit
AIGUILLE VERTE
Brown-Patey (British Route) TD+ 6b *** - ? L'Aiguille...
Whymper Couloir AD+ 2 *** 67 700m L'Aiguille...
ROCK (DAY HITS)
Papillons Arête D+ 5c *** 948 ? • 12 Aiguille du Peigne
Les Lépidoptères D 5b ** 320 180m • 5 Aiguille du Peigne
Nabot-Léon TD- 5c *** 403 180m • 8 Aiguille de...
Osez Joséphine TD 6a ** 40 165m Aiguille de...
Rébuffat-Baquet TD+ 6a *** 713 250m • 10 Aiguille du Midi
Rebuffat-Pierre TD- 6a+ *** 577 120m • 4 Aiguille du Midi
Contamine Route TD 6a+ *** 284 205m Mont Blanc du Tacul
ROCK (BIVOUACS)
Cordier Pillar TD+ 6b *** 179 750m • 25 Charmoz Grepon
Charmoz-Grépon Traverse D+ 6b *** 28 ? Charmoz Grepon
Mer de Glace Face D+ 5c *** 71 ? Envers des Aiguilles
Voie Normale (République) D+ 5c *** 114 ? Envers des Aiguilles
The North Face TD+ 6a *** 64 850m Les Dru
Dru Traverse D+ 5c *** 29 ? Les Dru
MONT BLANC
Innominata Ridge D+ *** 28 ? Mont Blanc
Central Pillar of Freney ED1 5c *** 23 ? Mont Blanc
Aiguille Noire de Peutérey TD+ 4 *** 52 1,100m • 42 Mont Blanc
87 stars 8,238 13,313m 145
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