Rockfax Description
34m. A great classic. It can be done in two pitches. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and right to the rib and climb this past awkward moves to reach the base of the wider upper crack system. Climb this - tricky at the overhang - and finish up a short wall at the back of the final ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic County, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Rockfall Northern England top 50.

Mr Fuller 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Totally brilliant on a crag full of great routes.

Hidden 27/Aug/17 2nd O/S
hetheringtom 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Wobbly rock halfway up threw my confidence, got straight back into it though. Cam placement could be improved, smaller sizes would have worked better.

with Ethan Lisk
scottidog 22/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Graham Ansell
nathanshaw 11/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Jo
Rowan Page 09/Jul/17 Lead
with Alison Page
Darboak42 18/Jun/17 Lead
with John Haxon
Jake Young 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Fran
Graeme Hammond 28/May/17 Solo O/S
with Chris Hindley
melv 27/May/17 Lead O/S
with Fi
sheelba 26/May/17 2nd
with Naomi
Alison Page 25/May/17 Lead

There's a big nest full of chicks before the overhang, so I diverted left and had an adventure, some loose blocks but about the same grade

Chris.Brown87 17/May/17 Lead O/S

Memorable and enjoyable. Feels like a long route. Chimney at the top looks daunting but it's all there with two great slings for pro. Couple of loose blocks lower down.

PatrickRT 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Such a good climb. Amazing face climbing apart from the thrutchy chimney at the top. so easy to protect. Difficult to abb down and clean though.

with Annabelle
Simnel 30/Apr/17 2nd

Topped out to an Osprey hunting above the Lough!

with Andy T
Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead
Dino Dave 30/Oct/16 Lead O/S


with Munro
MrRossy 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S
glaramara 18/Sep/16 2nd

Solid HS.

with nick
Hidden 29/Aug/16 2nd
Zoomer 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Superb, absolute class climbing with excellent pro throughout. Felt more like VS 4b/c for me.

lukimotaka 27/Aug/16 2nd
with Josh
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Darboak42 14/Aug/16 2nd
with Simnel
Simnel 14/Aug/16 Lead
with Darran, Becky, John H
Hidden 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
nathanshaw 14/Aug/16 2nd
with Chris
K Wall 30/Jul/16 2nd
with Martin
Hidden 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S
CHarrison 16/Jul/16 Lead

With Alex

djbeaumont 16/Jul/16 Lead
with Al Horsefield
jongled 23/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Rory Woods
8PetrieC 06/Jun/16 Lead β
with Joe Jones
MattersBats 14/May/16 TR
with Dick, Bex, Jonny
Hidden ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
sarah hawker 30/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with bob
AlbieWat 16/Aug/15 Lead β
with Mark Riley
Col Kingshott 10/Aug/15 Lead O/S
cpforbes 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/15 Lead
kdblondie 03/Aug/15 2nd
with John Armstrong
Palmer 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

The decision to climb with our bags to save walking back for them was maybe poor choice. that Chimney is a nighmare with a bag on.

with Sarah
Georgie25 05/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd β
Climbster 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Vick
Tim Rodgers 03/Jun/15 2nd
Adamski1986 03/Jun/15 Lead

There is Currently a Nesting bird at half height and further up, climbed to the left to avoid disturbing birds.

Alpenglow 30/May/15 2nd rpt
odox 30/May/15 Lead
johnjb 30/May/15 2nd

Fell back to ledge at first attempt at lower crux, but found another move to left of crack which worked well. Made same mistake when I last did this climb.

with Harry, Ray Sharples, Paul
oli2wd 27/May/15 2nd

with JW - really nice climb, blocky, good gear! Birds nesting!

Hidden 23/May/15 2nd O/S
CHarrison 22/May/15 Lead O/S

Can't understand how this is a 3 star route, I thought it was a Bag of ....

Kizzy ?/May/15 -
smithjmw46 20/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/15 2nd O/S
jonnybmac 22/Mar/15 Lead
jonnybmac 22/Mar/15 Lead
Russell Lovett ??/2015 Solo O/S

Not sure of date first climbed. Have soloed it loads of times since.

with alone
John Haxon ??/2015 Lead
Sciguy 12/Oct/14 2nd rpt
with John Wilson
MikeLell 14/Sep/14 -
with avi
Avinash Aujayeb 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Elliot
dakidunn 20/Aug/14 Lead

Great lead, chimney at the top was interesting for an ample gentleman like myself. Breathe in....And to make the climb even better, there was an osprey diving into the lough as well.

with Tris
topsyturvy 20/Aug/14 2nd

Done before. Chimney at the top doesn't get any bigger.

Sciguy 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Loose rocks but Great route, got eaten by the chimney at the top, only problem dropping kit!

with tris
ian d f 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Slab start was trick in approach shoes. Cool chimney to finish.

with Michael, Ian
pearson9596 16/Aug/14 2nd O/S
williap ?/Aug/14 Lead
jonnysims 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Matt Bello
mike25350 23/Jul/14 TR O/S
y2keable 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tremendous route! Loved the moves and some great exposure. The rock was dry, clean and grippy. Climbed left around the chimney because I didn't want to spoil what had so far been a beautiful climb. I hate chimneys.

with Mike, John
DanChad 21/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 21/Jul/14 Lead

A classic at the grade and one of the best climbs I've done in ages. Enjoyed every move.

Gabe Oliver 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead
Tom McCabe 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Andrei Markin
Hidden 11/Jun/14 TR O/S
Jack Hirst 30/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jack Tomlinson
Peter Holder 30/May/14 Solo
rgd1977 19/May/14 Lead O/S
IanHope 17/May/14 Lead O/S
chris smith 06/May/14 Lead O/S
with Malcolm watson
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
peterhubbard 30/Oct/13 2nd
with Conrad
Tom McCabe 26/Oct/13 TR O/S
Alpenglow 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Top squeeze chimney was the very definition of 'thrutch'. Also a relatively difficult move lower down on the face.

with Ben M
ferdia 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 14/Aug/13 Solo O/S
with -
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
wnlwy 20/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Andysomething 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Went left at top ran out of gear - great route

with Bruce Perry
peter.ravenscroft27 30/Jun/13 2nd

long and super fun. birds 3/4 of the way up.

Gatley 30/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Jamie Brown 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great route. Not too hard anywhere, loads of gear and the chimney wasn't half as bad as I was expecting.

with Simon Caldwell, Carmen Elphick
Simon Caldwell 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt
colin milton 27/Jun/13 Lead
with shaun l
MikeLell 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Bron 06/May/13 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
BenBrotherton ??/2013 Lead O/S

Plan was to break the route into two due to a smallish rack. However when I reached the stance my partner decided he didn't fancy it! I had to get creative with placements for the upper pitch :) Great climb, well worth doing!

with Martin Miller
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Matt Poole 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 11/Aug/12 2nd rpt

Top route - surprising amount of grass and ferns given its classic status. The final chimney is quite easy if you stay outside, but would be bold that way on lead.

with Carmen
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Gareth-Evans 10/Aug/12 2nd dog
Boxy 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead
Ste Ridd 30/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jun/12 AltLd
Adrianw 20/Jun/12 2nd
sarah hawker 20/Jun/12 Lead dog

Hadn't really twigged I had to climb the chimney... turned into a bit of an epic with tears as I spent rather too long dangling from a chockstone. Adrian made it look depressingly easy.

Richard Alderton 18/Jun/12 Lead

Some suspect rock. The chimney is fun.

with Al
Hidden 07/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Keith Lambley 28/May/12 Lead
with Ken M, Pete H
kyaizawa 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Pleasant climbing up to the top chimney... novel constricted layback moves worked well, although not a climb for the larger built. Also, minimized bulky gear and ditch spare shoes, bags, etc.

with Margot Houwers
ed.burton 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Henry H?kkinen
lcullum7 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ben Barnard
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
JonG ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Dervey ??/2012 -
samoliver01 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
TomAnderson11 18/Aug/11 TR O/S
steven703 10/Aug/11 -
KevB 03/Aug/11 Lead
with Tony P
markfairbank 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Sandra Lee, Ray Sharples
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Solo O/S
pebbles 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

I thought this quite enjoyable, the others didnt

with guido, ewan
David Cowley 12/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Liam Martin 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S

A good route, well worth doing. Bottom half was the best and the awkward chimney was a little sting in the tail.

with David Cowley
Hidden 01/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead
ablackett 01/Jun/11 Lead dog

Very top hold snapped off the last 2m high wall to the very top, sent me bouncing about 6-7m back down the crag - ouch. Nothing else loose on the route, so don't be put off, cracking good climbing - the top chimney is a bit tight.

with Andy Wallace
jshields 21/May/11 Lead
davewsargent 20/May/11 Lead
Andy DB 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with chris
kitP 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Awesome route, brilliant exposure (if you're not leading)

with Andy B
andybroadway 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Schurch
Hidden 25/Aug/10 AltLd
mikecollins 21/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with stg
andy mcc 21/Aug/10 Lead
with Arifa Chakera
barney800 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

A bit loose and mucky in places but excellent nonetheless. Bags of variety.

with Katherine Shaw
Hidden 31/Jul/10 -
Hidden 07/Jul/10 Lead O/S
jimstanton 30/Jun/10 Lead
with Ailsa
David Bulley 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, thrutchy climbing in the chimney

with Andy Chisholm
stouffer 05/Jun/10 Lead
barni 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
seanmalone 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with justin hughes, owen barnicott
Euan S 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Agua-Moose 24/May/10 Lead O/S

Great route. Loved the length (34m) but bottled the chimney and went round to the left. Anchor points at the top wern't so plentyful! Will be back to have another go later in the year.

with Rock Climbing Stew
Simnel 23/May/10 2nd

Warning the large loose blocks at the bottom of the climb as you traverse over are now very loose ie about to drop off..

brayg01 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Scary climb. I was running out or quick draws after half way! This wasn’t my hardest grade I’ve lead but it defiantly is my hardest and best climb to date! I got a real buzz from this lead!

Skinny Kin 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lucian Peterca
Falko 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Exciting climb - more like mountaineering than crag climbing - complete with loose blocks and doubtful flakes but nonetheless worthy of three stars. Climbed with Matthew who had spent much of the previous week on a Geography field course beneath the crag and in driech conditions. In contrast Saturday was a delightful day and, as one of the 'locals' said, was the 'Crag Lough season'. Huge trout in the water below.

with Matthew Rech
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
clairepoppett 24/Apr/10 2nd
with James R
buddha1369 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
alan1234 ??/2010 Lead O/S
ajtaylor 18/Oct/09 2nd

Splendid, hard crux.

with Nat
stuaart 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

For some reason I found the chimney at the top quite an enjoyable squeeze.

with Laura Wright
Hidden 01/Oct/09 2nd O/S
bencole ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Andy
WendyT 22/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with James Marsh
NaomiHart 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Richy Reed/Tom NcNally
PeteH 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
NaomiHart 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/09 2nd β
johnjb 25/Jul/09 2nd

Tried to put second foot higher up into crack at lower crux, but fell back to ledge. Found correct route: right foot in crack, then move out to left. Top chimney was awkward.

with Ray Sharples
Hidden 02/Jul/09 2nd O/S
odox 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Another brilliant gem in Lough. Just keeps on giving. Climbed on the arête of the chimney rather than udging inside. Thin moves but nice all the same :)

Rog Wilko 23/Jun/09 Lead

Excellent route, well worth its stars. Just a shame about the grovel up the final chimney!

with Debbie Wilkinson
David Cowley 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Stew Cowley
mikecollins 25/May/09 Lead O/S
with stg
dpmUK 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Jen
arctic_jen 25/Apr/09 2nd
with Dan
andyhutch77 07/Mar/09 Lead

Excellent climb, a true classic. I will def' repeat it.

with Marc Tomlinson
Phill_ Thompson ??/2009 Lead
Simnel ??/2009 2nd
with Mads
j0shwyatt000 ??/2009 2nd O/S
Rich Thornton ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Sam Davison-Webb, James Harland
7om ?/Sep/08 2nd β
with Chris Morish
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Timpy1584 23/Aug/08 2nd
with Steve
Daniel Sutherland 23/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Chris
stimpey 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Tom
1918hasti 11/Aug/08 Lead
with Paul Bradwell
Daniel Sutherland 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Lindsay
Lindsay Sutherland 02/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Daniel Sutherland
Fabian001 13/Jul/08 2nd

Flew up this one, but time was pressing so didn't quite finish it. I think I may need to loose a bit of weight around my arse to complete this one as there's an unpleasant tight chimney at the top

with Adam Thorpe
Cornish Merlin 04/Jul/08 2nd
victim of mathematics 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S

A great route that goes on and on. Unfortunately it has 2 distinct cruxes and the rest is considerably easier, but it's definitely a three star route all the same.

Andrew Sandercock 01/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with jon armstrong
pwrenwick 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
jonny taylor 07/Jun/08 2nd
with Paul
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
jonka ?/Feb/08 2nd
with degs
shouter ??/2008 Lead
Claire S-J ?/Nov/07 2nd
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
NickST ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S


with Greg Grace
camjberry ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Nevard
tomcorley55 07/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Mark Duggan
Mark D 07/Sep/07 2nd O/S
duncana 25/Aug/07 Lead

Good climbing on slap, then awkward squirm in chimney

with Jenny Lee Marshall
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Adam1973 10/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Flicka
andyandy 06/Jun/07 Lead
with Heather
Dane 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Lower bit was awesome, the chimney less so (read: it was pretty cr@p)

with John
telemark ??/2007 Lead
geordiekev ??/2007 2nd
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
lump'o'lead ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
snowcat 26/Jul/06 2nd

Ably led by Phil in the setting sun when it was nearly pub o'clock. He now says he is retiring from leading! The trick with this is to look for the crack at the back of the chimney - as found by Steve - cos otherwise flailing around on the outside or jamming yourself inside the chimney it ends up being more like HVS

with Phil Steadman
Hidden 24/Jul/06 Lead
Sam Judson 28/Jun/06 Lead O/S

A wonderfully varied route, and long, at 34m.

with Caroline Judson
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Colin Matheson 10/Jun/06 2nd

My birthday climbs

with Charlie Fisher
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
Jungle_153 ?/Sep/05 2nd
Sankey ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Superb, has it all, technical moves between cracks low down, and a great squeeze chimney top out.

with Luke
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 24/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Bailey
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! ?/Aug/05 -
Hidden 22/Jun/05 Lead O/S
snowy owl 30/Aug/04 Lead
with Neil Rutherford
Hidden 28/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/04 -
GPN ?/Jun/04 2nd
fellgazelle ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Ian Waterhouse
Mark Davies PK ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Fiend
Hidden 21/Jul/02 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Martin Bohl
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
alxonrocks 15/Oct/00 Lead
stuart100 ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Lead
mike fenwick ?/Aug/97 Lead
with Lucy
Hidden 22/Sep/95 Lead O/S
stewart murray ??/1995 2nd
with Pete Middleton
biggianthead 08/May/94 -
with HT
Simon Caldwell ??/1992 Lead O/S

Year is approximate. All I can remember is (a) faffing for ages summoning up the courage to leave the spike, and (b) looking down from near the top to see every piece of gear I'd placed was sliding down the rope, and saying "oh w**k" :-)

with Martin
Jim Walton ??/1990 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 04/Dec/83 Lead O/S

classic, also 12/7/89 and 23/6/95

Hidden 12/Sep/82 Lead O/S
cornishmackem ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Tim Cogdon
andybirtwistle ??/1982 -
Will Webb ??/1981 Lead
with Nick Watkins
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1980 -
with NUMC
Mike C 24/Sep/79 Lead
with Kevin Howett
babymoac 26/Jul/79 -
Neil R ?/Apr/77 Lead
with Dave M
beaumap ??/1977 Lead
with Peter Camp
Dave Musgrove 24/Mar/73 AltLd
with Mike Butler, Jim Worthington
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1973 -
granitbahn ??/1970 AltLd
RichardMc 22/Oct/67 2nd
with Ian Stromberg, Ann Davison
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 46
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set