125m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea-cliff. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche, then pull up rightwards to easier ground. Continue traversing to a red corner below a steep wall and a belay.
2) 6b, 15m. Climb up to the roof (old peg) and make a wildly committing move up and right past a fixed nut. Continue steeply rightwards on jugs to a restricted belay in a red corner.
3) 6a, 16m. Make a difficult move off the belay to join a hand-crack which is followed out around the lip to a constricted rest. Traverse down rightwards for 5m to a peg-belay.
4) 6a, 26m. Traverse back left to where some difficult moves reach a cramped hanging wall. Keep moving leftwards past a bush to join Dreadnought at its corner. Follow the corner and traverse rightwards under the roof to the Dreadnought belay.
5) 5b, 28m. Climb up Dreadnought's hanging groove before moving right at the capping overhang to a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to another shallow groove which leads to the left end of an oblong roof, traverse rightwards beneath this to a short groove which is followed to a small stance.
6) 5b, 20m. Move left and climb through the overhang to gain an awkward crack, ascend this and continue direct to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Sept 2018 rockfall on pitch 3 - not yet re-climbed free. Pitch 2 and 3 can be strung together to avoid the awful stance.
Finally DWS or shallow grave soloing? (a term coined by Dave T) Your call (it is all encompassed in that S3 grade). The DWS version climbs a slight variation of the first 4 pitches to join Dreadnought which is descended into Moonraker. Carefully assess the depth below the hard bits - there is a big boulder to hit.

FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 11.1982 15/Nov/1982

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
JulesV 9 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf Awesome lead of the crux pitch by Rob. Pleased to second this clean. Detatched a large block from the belay when moving off the second stance leaving both of us hanging off what remained of the belay. Looked like there had been recent rock fall from 3rd pitch too, big scar under traverse rail, leaving a thin unsupported flake. Psyce/confidence in the rock was now low so I aided across this to 3rd stance and we abbed. Missing block will make move onto second stance a bit harder and means the belay there is minimal, although we did remove a rusty wire which had ripped during the fall so there is now at least one good piece! No pegs in this belay. Good wires and slings left in the next one.
with Rob Sutton
Awesome lead of the crux pitch by Rob. Pleased to second this clean. Detatched a large block from the belay when moving off the second stance leaving both of us hanging off what remained of the belay. Looked like there had been recent rock fall from 3rd pitch too, big scar under traverse rail, leaving a thin unsupported flake. Psyce/confidence in the rock was now low so I aided across this to 3rd stance and we abbed. Missing block will make move onto second stance a bit harder and means the belay there is minimal, although we did remove a rusty wire which had ripped during the fall so there is now at least one good piece! No pegs in this belay. Good wires and slings left in the next one.
with Rob Sutton
lukehunt 10 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
with andy hall
with andy hall
Russell Blackaller 2 Sep, 2017 AltLd Fell off twice traversing right on pitch 3. Got it wrong - after the "rest" go low and get your feet on the lower slanting ledge. Fell off once more traversing the lip trip. All in all a bloody good day out. I am a bit of a prussicing hero now for sure! Top pitches are fine and not anywhere near as loose as i expected them to be.
with Tom N
Fell off twice traversing right on pitch 3. Got it wrong - after the "rest" go low and get your feet on the lower slanting ledge. Fell off once more traversing the lip trip. All in all a bloody good day out. I am a bit of a prussicing hero now for sure! Top pitches are fine and not anywhere near as loose as i expected them to be.
with Tom N
James Mitchelmore 5 Oct, 2013 Solo dnf Soloed first pitch up to belay and a little beyond to check the route out a bit. Contemplating soloing first three pitches, but it looks pretty high! :O
Soloed first pitch up to belay and a little beyond to check the route out a bit. Contemplating soloing first three pitches, but it looks pretty high! :O
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Aug, 2013 AltLd dog Whilst not getting this clean, getting to the top seemed like a triumph. Wild positions, truly awesome route - I'll be back...
with Cherry Bedford
Whilst not getting this clean, getting to the top seemed like a triumph. Wild positions, truly awesome route - I'll be back...
with Cherry Bedford
Hidden ??, 2012 -
robbie Warke 12 Sep, 2011 Solo dnf Soloed first pitch to take a look, must get on it soon!
Soloed first pitch to take a look, must get on it soon!
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Joe le Sage
with Joe le Sage
Si Witcher ??, 2002 Lead led the short, hard pitch. James had to lead me up the rest due to sensational lack of fitness..
led the short, hard pitch. James had to lead me up the rest due to sensational lack of fitness..
UKB Shark 18 Sep, 1993 AltLd
with Dave Marsh
with Dave Marsh
Glenn Sutcliffe 29 Aug, 1992 AltLd
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 29 Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 1990 2nd
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden ?Oct, 1989 2nd dog
frank ramsay ?Oct, 1989 Lead
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