Rockfax Description
A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea cliff. The loss of a large block on the third pitch has altered it, and at the time of writing it is not known to have had a free ascent (although it has been aided). Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche, then pull up right to easier ground. Continue traversing to a red corner below a steep wall and belay.
2) 6b, 15m. Climb up to the roof (peg) and make a wildly committing move up and right. Continue steeply rightwards on jugs to a restricted belay in a red corner.
3) 6a?, 16m. Rockfall has altered this pitch and it has not been climbed free at the time of writing. Make a difficult move from the belay to join a traverse line (this is where a block has been lost from) which is followed out around the lip to a constricted rest. Traverse down and rightwards for 5m to a belay.
4) 6a, 26m. Traverse back left to where some difficult moves reach a cramped hanging wall. Keep moving leftwards past a bush to join Dreadnought at its corner. Follow the corner and traverse rightwards under the roof to the Dreadnought belay.
5) 5b, 28m. Climb up Dreadnought's hanging groove then move right at the capping overhang to reach a shallow groove. Ascend this to another shallow groove which leads to the left end of an oblong roof. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a short groove which is followed to a small stance.
6) 5b, 20m. Move left and climb through the overhang to gain an awkward crack, ascend this and continue direct to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Not re-climbed since rockfall in 2018.
FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 15/Nov/1982.
Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme Rock II
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Grade: E6 6c ***
(Lundy)