Rockfax Description
This is a route of two distinct halves. The lower half up to the large ledge of the 7th pitch provides satisfactory but somewhat disjointed climbing. By contrast the upper pitches offer superb climbing in a fantastic situation.
Start 10m uphill of the left arete on a section of white wall that follows a small blunt arete. The start is often marked with a small cairn. The first bolt (about 7m up) is hard to spot. The easiest point of reference is a large corner at 50m height. Oltre la porta runs to the left of this corner whilst Ottovolante takes the wall to the right.
1) 6a+, 2) 6b+, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a+, 5) 6a+, 6) 6a, 7) 1, 8) 6c+, 9) 6b+, 10) 6a+, 11) 6c, 12) 4a. © Rockfax
FA. Boldrin, Maceri 2003 15/Jun/2003.
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Stella Polare
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Sass Dlacia)