Rockfax Description
A challenging modern route which is most commonly aided at VI A0. It follows the first four pitches of Via Dimai then takes a direct line up the centre of the face, passing through the large roof below the summit. Protected with pegs and bolts in the cruxes and at the belays.
After pitch four of Via Dimai, follow the ledge right for 25m to the base of a corner-crack.
1-4) As for Via Dimai.
5) IV+, 45m. Climb the corner-crack to reach a good stance.
6) VI-, 30m. Move left and climb a crack.
7) V, 45m. Continue to reach a pronounced corner just right of a roof and climb this, exiting left.
8) V, 40m. Make a gently rising traverse to the left on a steep slab.
9) VI, 40m. Continue vertically, keeping just right of a roof.
10) VII, 40m. Climb the technical slab then move diagonally left to belay below a series of yellow roofs.
11) VIII, 25m. Move left then climb to reach the roofs before moving left beneath them. Pull through to a belay just above the leftmost roof.
12) V-, 40m. Climb rightwards then direct above the rightmost roof to a belay by a tree.
13) IV, 45m. Climb a series of short slabs to reach a wide ledge.
14) I, 20m. Climb left easily to reach the final cables of via ferrata Michielli Strobel. Follow these to exit onto the summit plateau. © Rockfax

FA. Gaspari, Michielli, Menardi, Lacedelli 1988 15/Jun/1988

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