An excellent route up the pronounced southeast arete of Punta Fiames. The approach is somewhat arduous but the quality of the climbing soon makes up for this. Polished in places but well protected. The first four pitches are shared with the classic Via Dimai.
The route begins at the scree cone's highest point, in a small clearing below the right-hand chimney.
1-4) As for Via Dimai.
5) 100m. Follow the ledge easily right to reach the arete and the true start of the route.
6) IV, 35m. Climb the crack on the left then move right to follow a corner. Where this ends, traverse left to a good stance.
7) IV, 20m. Climb the face above, below a yellow roof. Traverse right below this to a belay.
8) IV, 20m. Move right then climb a gully.
9) V, 30m. Climb the featured but slightly polished slab aiming for a narrow crack above. Follow this from left to right to reach the top of a pulpit.
10) V, 25m. Continue up the compact and somewhat polished face left of a yellow roof via a crack. Continue up easier ground to a good stance.
11) V+, 40m. Climb easily to regain the arete. Continue past a possible belay and continue up the vertical face, following a narrow crack. Ignore a possible stance on the left and overcome the crack to the right to reach a stance below a pale triangular roof.
12) V-, 25m. Traverse right around the arete then climb a wide vertical crack on good holds. Continue up the featured face above.
13) Climb the face then move right over easier ground to a scree ledge. Move further right to reach a cracked corner.
14) IV+, 55m. Climb the corner then traverse left below an overhanging flake. Continue up easier ground, passing two large threads (possible belay) to exit onto the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Jori & Broske 19/Aug/1909.
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