230m, 6 pitches. An excellent route which provides a fun way to arrive at the First Platform.

Harold Raeburn & Mr C.I.C 30/Jun/1902

Ticklists

Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, 2018 Goals

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
david0811 14 Jul AltLd
with Locky
with Locky
MrRiley 14 Jul AltLd rpt Hoping to do Bayonet but that was sopping so did this again. Enjoyed it more than before as it was much drier overall, but got off route due to wetness on pitch 5 which resulted in a minging pitch in the gully between this and Bayonet. Linked with NEB for a grand day out!
with Mark Reid
Hoping to do Bayonet but that was sopping so did this again. Enjoyed it more than before as it was much drier overall, but got off route due to wetness on pitch 5 which resulted in a minging pitch in the gully between this and Bayonet. Linked with NEB for a grand day out!
with Mark Reid
Small and weak 12 Jul AltLd
Whorlhill 12 Jul AltLd
Hidden 12 Jul AltLd
Hidden 12 Jul AltLd
Rhys Deane 2 Jul AltLd O/S
with Sam Russel
with Sam Russel
arose 26 Jun Solo quite cold in the shade. combined with North East Buttress.
quite cold in the shade. combined with North East Buttress.
WhipperSnapper 7 Jun Lead
Hidden 27 Feb -
HaleAlex 24 Feb AltLd O/S
ChrisLewis 24 Feb AltLd Rock shoes in February?! Continued onto NE Buttress (in more appropriate footwear)
Rock shoes in February?! Continued onto NE Buttress (in more appropriate footwear)
TobyA 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Cold and blowy. Decent climbing. Did it in five long pitches then continued up NE Buttress.
with Dave
Cold and blowy. Decent climbing. Did it in five long pitches then continued up NE Buttress.
with Dave
rsim 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Danny
with Danny
keith hal 4 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Led all pitches. A cracking climb with lovely rock. Finished up NE buttress.
with Shaun C
Led all pitches. A cracking climb with lovely rock. Finished up NE buttress.
with Shaun C
Calum3610 30 Jun, 2018 Lead Lead all pitches with a couple of friends on their first mountain route. Rock was a tad loose in places. Continued up NE Buttress.
Lead all pitches with a couple of friends on their first mountain route. Rock was a tad loose in places. Continued up NE Buttress.
Hidden 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Nathan Adam 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S A good climb, walked off from first platform.
A good climb, walked off from first platform.
Garry_C 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Nathan
with Nathan
Hidden 31 May, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 31 May, 2018 Solo O/S
ilovespeedway 27 May, 2018 2nd
with Henry, Emily
with Henry, Emily
Cbulman 31 May, 2017 AltLd
Ken Applegate 6 May, 2017 Lead Great route on good quality rock. Route was dry throughout. We continued up North East Buttress. http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/raeburns-arete-north-east-buttress/
Great route on good quality rock. Route was dry throughout. We continued up North East Buttress. http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/raeburns-arete-north-east-buttress/
George Milligan 2 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S Cracking route!
with Damon Rodwell, Michael Haywood
Cracking route!
with Damon Rodwell, Michael Haywood
Robertgiddy 10 Sep, 2016 Lead Great route, despite heavy overnight rain the route wasn't too wet. Finished up NE buttress.
Great route, despite heavy overnight rain the route wasn't too wet. Finished up NE buttress.
nathanshaw 27 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Julian
with Julian
timozheng ?Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
James Gordon ?Jul, 2016 -
sblake 17 Jun, 2016 Lead
BenGraham ?Jan, 2016 Lead
with Neil88S
with Neil88S
BenGraham ?Jan, 2016 Lead climbed as three, one member being a novice. I lead every pitch. followed north east buttress after.
with Neil88S
climbed as three, one member being a novice. I lead every pitch. followed north east buttress after.
with Neil88S
BenGraham ?Jan, 2016 Lead
with Neil88S
with Neil88S
Neil88S ??, 2016 2nd
QuicNic 11 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Good clean climbing, stayed on the crest the whole way, technically easy I would say for Severe but gear is thin in places. We hoped to finish up NEB but the gale at the 1st platform put us off. Got knocked off our feet on the screes on the way down so right decision?
Good clean climbing, stayed on the crest the whole way, technically easy I would say for Severe but gear is thin in places. We hoped to finish up NEB but the gale at the 1st platform put us off. Got knocked off our feet on the screes on the way down so right decision?
Steve Perry 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Did with NE Buttress and descent down Ledge Route. A good climb.
Did with NE Buttress and descent down Ledge Route. A good climb.
kbow265 ?Sep, 2015 AltLd "I can't believe this isn't the North East Buttress"
with Art School Joe
"I can't believe this isn't the North East Buttress"
with Art School Joe
pcurt 22 Aug, 2015 AltLd β Combined with NE Buttress
with Tom
Combined with NE Buttress
with Tom
pcurt 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S In boots. Dry at start, but rain halfway through made things interesting! Great route. Took much longer than expected however.
with Ryan
In boots. Dry at start, but rain halfway through made things interesting! Great route. Took much longer than expected however.
with Ryan
damondavies 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
fall-line 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Seemed a bit dirty to me and not that well protected! Had some vicious squalls come through though, summer in Scotland eh?
with Tom Cowton, Damon Davies
Seemed a bit dirty to me and not that well protected! Had some vicious squalls come through though, summer in Scotland eh?
with Tom Cowton, Damon Davies
AliceKerr ?Jun, 2015 AltLd
murray ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ryan
with Ryan
SUColdo 25 Jul, 2014 Lead
Nemo9 21 Jul, 2014 AltLd Fantastic route on fantastic day of warm, sunny weather. Saw no other climbers all day ! Did 1939 variation (?) as partner had done route before.
with Jim
Fantastic route on fantastic day of warm, sunny weather. Saw no other climbers all day ! Did 1939 variation (?) as partner had done route before.
with Jim
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
Keith-Getoutadventures 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p1 then alt leads. Big boots for me all the way. Felt trickier than S4A, perhaps would be better in rockshoes. Took much longer than I thought it would. Starting and ending in Edinburgh is a big day. Big kudos to Janey for leading the overhanging fingercrack section with rubbish/no gear near by.
Led p1 then alt leads. Big boots for me all the way. Felt trickier than S4A, perhaps would be better in rockshoes. Took much longer than I thought it would. Starting and ending in Edinburgh is a big day. Big kudos to Janey for leading the overhanging fingercrack section with rubbish/no gear near by.
Debbie Lee 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with MrRiley
with MrRiley
MrRiley 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Freezing cold and drizzling when we started so the first couple of pitches were not especially enjoyable! For an "arête" I thought the line was a bit indistinct and the best positions were on the final (moderate) pitch. Combining this with NEB on a nice day would be brilliant though!
Freezing cold and drizzling when we started so the first couple of pitches were not especially enjoyable! For an "arête" I thought the line was a bit indistinct and the best positions were on the final (moderate) pitch. Combining this with NEB on a nice day would be brilliant though!
skirton 27 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
seanhendo123 27 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Good route, bit of route finding, didn't understand the traverse 6m bit, just went straight up which seemed about right.
with skirton
Good route, bit of route finding, didn't understand the traverse 6m bit, just went straight up which seemed about right.
with skirton
simondunf ?Jun, 2014 Solo
Hidden 24 May, 2014 AltLd
nick ferro 24 May, 2014 -
with Oli Birkill, toolboxtim
with Oli Birkill, toolboxtim
ChrisMarden ??, 2014 -
with Michael
with Michael
Roberttaylor 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Started wrong then traversed onto the right route.
Started wrong then traversed onto the right route.
The Big Sender 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 20 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?Jun, 2013 2nd
with Westy and Geordie
with Westy and Geordie
matthew885 ??, 2013 Lead
mot1 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd
OwenF 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Nice climb but a bit cold. Didn't have time to finish up NE Buttress as took longer than we thought
with Stephi
Nice climb but a bit cold. Didn't have time to finish up NE Buttress as took longer than we thought
with Stephi
Andy Hewison 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Cold and a bit damp. Nice climb but was quite slow climbing as a 3, still enjoyable though. Walked off at the first platform. Will have to come back to do the buttress another day.
Cold and a bit damp. Nice climb but was quite slow climbing as a 3, still enjoyable though. Walked off at the first platform. Will have to come back to do the buttress another day.
Stephi 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S slippery and very cold. Should have done it a few weeks earlier...
with OwenF
slippery and very cold. Should have done it a few weeks earlier...
with OwenF
oliverk 19 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Even numbered pitches. Nice route but a bit damp
with Eddie
Even numbered pitches. Nice route but a bit damp
with Eddie
oliverk 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf Abbed off from top of pitch 2 due to heavy rain
with Eddie
Abbed off from top of pitch 2 due to heavy rain
with Eddie
Sally Hudson 3 Jun, 2012 2nd
with connor
with connor
connor 3 Jun, 2012 Lead
Hidden 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Liam Ingram 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
nich0las 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Janis
with Janis
Alor_lab 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Stephen Barrass
with Stephen Barrass
Alastair MacSween 3 Jul, 2011 Lead
with Graham Hunter
with Graham Hunter
mhowie 2 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Nathan
with Nathan
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
thebat 9 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Ontour
with Ontour
Mark Bull 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Gillian
with Gillian
nick everett 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd With Rob G. Full thermals & winter waterproofs against the gale - coldest day this summer. What amazing rock. Plenty route choice up parallel grooves and slabs - 'crest' is best. P2 bold with a crux, P3 (mine) slightly bold, P4 a crack crux up narrowest part of 'arete'. P5 (after our first 8m) Diff at most, P6 a Mod scramble.
With Rob G. Full thermals & winter waterproofs against the gale - coldest day this summer. What amazing rock. Plenty route choice up parallel grooves and slabs - 'crest' is best. P2 bold with a crux, P3 (mine) slightly bold, P4 a crack crux up narrowest part of 'arete'. P5 (after our first 8m) Diff at most, P6 a Mod scramble.
iceicebaby 15 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Nice climbing, better quality than the rest of NE Butress we thought. I don't get the bit that says to go 8m right...we just stuck to the arete as closely as possible, which was about Severe anyway.
Nice climbing, better quality than the rest of NE Butress we thought. I don't get the bit that says to go 8m right...we just stuck to the arete as closely as possible, which was about Severe anyway.
Hidden 14 Aug, 2010 Lead
Hidden 23 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Captain Solo 13 Jul, 2010 Solo
abbeywall 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
with K
with K
pimpy 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Ash
with Ash
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
mikemartin 12 Jun, 2010 AltLd
ill_bill 10 Jun, 2010 AltLd
prycey 3 Jun, 2010 AltLd β
Hidden 17 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S
Derek Graham 14 Sep, 2009 2nd
Neil Mackenzie 22 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S raining
raining
hubereini 22 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S probably best done when it doesn't rain...
probably best done when it doesn't rain...
Ewan Russell 5 Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf Started snowing, about 4 pitches up had to ab back down on single rope on the second abseil rope wouldn't pull down had to prussick back up ropes. Eventually got off to the right(as you face) lowered tom off all the 60m rope bottom and then soloed/scrambled/jumped my way down. Was all very exciting probably only a minor epic as we were in our tent above the cic hut before 9 drinking duvel.
with Tom Dewhurst
Started snowing, about 4 pitches up had to ab back down on single rope on the second abseil rope wouldn't pull down had to prussick back up ropes. Eventually got off to the right(as you face) lowered tom off all the 60m rope bottom and then soloed/scrambled/jumped my way down. Was all very exciting probably only a minor epic as we were in our tent above the cic hut before 9 drinking duvel.
with Tom Dewhurst
JLS 31 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Jacqui
with Jacqui
Gawyllie 30 May, 2009 AltLd
with john meechan
with john meechan
SWalls 13 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with Alex Moran, Mike Coppock
with Alex Moran, Mike Coppock
Simon Allcock ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
with jonty
with jonty
Lawrie Brand 13 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Malcolm
with Malcolm
griggj 21 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
with tom sparkes
with tom sparkes
Hidden 14 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
DavPk 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd
with StuDoig
with StuDoig
RobScotland 31 May, 2008 AltLd O/S A fine route - took a direct approach and followed the natural line up the crest of the ridge. The guide book says to traverse 6 meters to the right at one point but didn't feel that this was necessary and followed a more direct line. The route starts below and slightly right of a fairly prominent (but not very large) dark overhanging roof about 15 m up the face - the first pitch ascends up towards this then follows the natural crack line up and out to the right. The route finishes at a magnificent situation at the beginning of North East Buttress. This great route is unspoilt by technicalities or excessive gear. Some snow on easy ground at the very top but certainly not enough to warrant carrying an ice axe.
with Guy
A fine route - took a direct approach and followed the natural line up the crest of the ridge. The guide book says to traverse 6 meters to the right at one point but didn't feel that this was necessary and followed a more direct line. The route starts below and slightly right of a fairly prominent (but not very large) dark overhanging roof about 15 m up the face - the first pitch ascends up towards this then follows the natural crack line up and out to the right. The route finishes at a magnificent situation at the beginning of North East Buttress. This great route is unspoilt by technicalities or excessive gear. Some snow on easy ground at the very top but certainly not enough to warrant carrying an ice axe.
with Guy
Hidden 25 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
sparkoclimb ?May, 2008 AltLd
alan wilson ??, 2007 -
calumalien 22 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Did in boots, marvelous!
with Robby Boy
Did in boots, marvelous!
with Robby Boy
NickBrown 2 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
norwooderson 2 Jul, 2006 AltLd
Stuart Macfarlane 1 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Dave S
with Dave S
CurlyStevo ??, 2006 AltLd Also didn't traverse right the direct approach was no harder than severe anyways.
Also didn't traverse right the direct approach was no harder than severe anyways.
stuartm555 24 Apr, 2005 2nd
joe king ?Sep, 2004 -
with simon ringrose
with simon ringrose
chrishedgehog 17 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey
with Dan Bailey
sebrider ?Jul, 2004 Lead
Hidden ?Apr, 2004 -
nickdonohue ?Aug, 2003 AltLd Felt bold for the grade. Amazing to think of first ascensionists gear (or lack of)
with Mark McCarthy
Felt bold for the grade. Amazing to think of first ascensionists gear (or lack of)
with Mark McCarthy
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 5 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
snowboarder 15 Jun, 2003 AltLd
with 220bpm
with 220bpm
220bpm 15 Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S Fn great day out on the Ben
Fn great day out on the Ben
Hidden ??, 2000 -
IanMcC 20 Jun, 1996 AltLd
with JimSh
with JimSh
Hidden 16 Jun, 1996 AltLd
Yourlead 25 Sep, 1994 Lead
with Hugh Muchcamp
with Hugh Muchcamp
Hidden ??, 1993 -
uphillnow ??, 1965 Solo Climbed in a light mist which swirled around. Kept pace with another soloist on a route to my left(Newbigging's)
Climbed in a light mist which swirled around. Kept pace with another soloist on a route to my left(Newbigging's)
Seymore Butt ?Jul, 1963 AltLd
with John Whitfield, Jack
with John Whitfield, Jack
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set