230m, 6 pitches. An excellent route which provides a fun way to arrive at the First Platform.

Harold Raeburn & Mr C.I.C 30/Jun/1902

Ticklists: Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, 2018 Goals.

James Gordon ??/2018 -
Cbulman 31/May/17 AltLd
Ken Applegate 06/May/17 Lead

Great route on good quality rock. Route was dry throughout. We continued up North East Buttress.

George Milligan 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Cracking route!

with Damon Rodwell, Michael Haywood
Robertgiddy 10/Sep/16 Lead

Great route, despite heavy overnight rain the route wasn't too wet. Finished up NE buttress.

nathanshaw 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Julian
timozheng ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
sblake 17/Jun/16 Lead
BenGraham ?/Jan/16 Lead
with Neil88S
BenGraham ?/Jan/16 Lead

climbed as three, one member being a novice. I lead every pitch. followed north east buttress after.

with Neil88S
BenGraham ?/Jan/16 Lead
with Neil88S
Neil88S ??/2016 2nd
QuicNic 11/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Good clean climbing, stayed on the crest the whole way, technically easy I would say for Severe but gear is thin in places. We hoped to finish up NEB but the gale at the 1st platform put us off. Got knocked off our feet on the screes on the way down so right decision?

Steve Perry 08/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Did with NE Buttress and descent down Ledge Route. A good climb.

Hidden ?/Sep/15 AltLd
petecurt 22/Aug/15 AltLd β

Combined with NE Buttress

with Tom
petecurt 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

In boots. Dry at start, but rain halfway through made things interesting! Great route. Took much longer than expected however.

with Ryan
damondavies 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
fall-line 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Seemed a bit dirty to me and not that well protected! Had some vicious squalls come through though, summer in Scotland eh?

with Tom Cowton, Damon Davies
AliceKerr ?/Jun/15 AltLd
murray ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ryan
SUColdo 25/Jul/14 Lead
Nemo9 21/Jul/14 AltLd

Fantastic route on fantastic day of warm, sunny weather. Saw no other climbers all day ! Did 1939 variation (?) as partner had done route before.

with Jim
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
Keith-Getoutadventures 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1 then alt leads. Big boots for me all the way. Felt trickier than S4A, perhaps would be better in rockshoes. Took much longer than I thought it would. Starting and ending in Edinburgh is a big day. Big kudos to Janey for leading the overhanging fingercrack section with rubbish/no gear near by.

with cathy, janey
Debbie Lee 28/Jun/14 AltLd
MrRiley 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Freezing cold and drizzling when we started so the first couple of pitches were not especially enjoyable! For an "arête" I thought the line was a bit indistinct and the best positions were on the final (moderate) pitch. Combining this with NEB on a nice day would be brilliant though!

skirton 27/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
seanhendo123 27/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Good route, bit of route finding, didn't understand the traverse 6m bit, just went straight up which seemed about right.

with Sarah
simondunf ?/Jun/14 Solo
Hidden 24/May/14 AltLd
nick ferro 24/May/14 -
with Oli Birkill, toolboxtim
Roberttaylor 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Started wrong then traversed onto the right route.

with Tom e
The Big Sender 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 20/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Westy and Geordie
matthew885 ??/2013 Lead
mot1 22/Sep/12 AltLd
OwenF 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Nice climb but a bit cold. Didn't have time to finish up NE Buttress as took longer than we thought

with Stephi
Andy Hewison 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Cold and a bit damp. Nice climb but was quite slow climbing as a 3, still enjoyable though. Walked off at the first platform. Will have to come back to do the buttress another day.

with Neale
Stephi 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

slippery and very cold. Should have done it a few weeks earlier...

with OwenF
oliverk 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Even numbered pitches. Nice route but a bit damp

with Eddie
oliverk 18/Aug/12 AltLd dnf

Abbed off from top of pitch 2 due to heavy rain

with Eddie
Sally Hudson 03/Jun/12 2nd
connor 03/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 02/Jun/12 AltLd
Liam Ingram 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
nich0las 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Janis
Alor_lab 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Stephen Barrass
Alastair MacSween 03/Jul/11 Lead
with Graham Hunter
mhowie 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Nathan
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
thebat 09/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Ontour
Mark Bull 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Gillian
nick everett 29/Aug/10 AltLd

With Rob G. Full thermals & winter waterproofs against the gale - coldest day this summer. What amazing rock. Plenty route choice up parallel grooves and slabs - 'crest' is best. P2 bold with a crux, P3 (mine) slightly bold, P4 a crack crux up narrowest part of 'arete'. P5 (after our first 8m) Diff at most, P6 a Mod scramble.

iceicebaby 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing, better quality than the rest of NE Butress we thought. I don't get the bit that says to go 8m right...we just stuck to the arete as closely as possible, which was about Severe anyway.

scottie390 14/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Captain Solo 13/Jul/10 Solo
abbeywall 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with K
pimpy 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Ash
Fiona Reid 19/Jun/10 AltLd

Absolutely lovely easy climbing on super grippy rock. Probably best done in the afternoon so that you get some sun.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lovely clean rock, a brilliant route. (Never quite found the bit where it said go 6m right?)

with Fiona
Hidden 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
mikemartin 12/Jun/10 AltLd
ill_bill 10/Jun/10 AltLd
prycey 03/Jun/10 AltLd β
Hidden 17/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Derek Graham 14/Sep/09 2nd
Neil Mackenzie 22/Jun/09 AltLd O/S


hubereini 22/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

probably best done when it doesn't rain...

with neil
Ewan Russell 05/Jun/09 AltLd dnf

Started snowing, about 4 pitches up had to ab back down on single rope on the second abseil rope wouldn't pull down had to prussick back up ropes. Eventually got off to the right(as you face) lowered tom off all the 60m rope bottom and then soloed/scrambled/jumped my way down. Was all very exciting probably only a minor epic as we were in our tent above the cic hut before 9 drinking duvel.

with Tom Dewhurst
JLS 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Jacqui
Gawyllie 30/May/09 AltLd
with john meechan
SWalls 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with Alex Moran, Mike Coppock
Simon Allcock ?/Aug/08 AltLd
with jonty
Lawrie Brand 13/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
griggj 21/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with tom sparkes
Hidden 14/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
DavPk 07/Jun/08 AltLd
RobScotland 31/May/08 AltLd O/S

A fine route - took a direct approach and followed the natural line up the crest of the ridge. The guide book says to traverse 6 meters to the right at one point but didn't feel that this was necessary and followed a more direct line. The route starts below and slightly right of a fairly prominent (but not very large) dark overhanging roof about 15 m up the face - the first pitch ascends up towards this then follows the natural crack line up and out to the right. The route finishes at a magnificent situation at the beginning of North East Buttress. This great route is unspoilt by technicalities or excessive gear. Some snow on easy ground at the very top but certainly not enough to warrant carrying an ice axe.

with Guy
Hidden 25/May/08 AltLd O/S
sparkoclimb ?/May/08 AltLd
alan wilson ??/2007 -
calumalien 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Did in boots, marvelous!

with Robby Boy
NickBrown 02/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Stuart Macfarlane 01/Jul/06 AltLd
with Dave S
CurlyStevo ??/2006 AltLd

Also didn't traverse right the direct approach was no harder than severe anyways.

stuartm555 24/Apr/05 2nd
joe king ?/Sep/04 -
with simon ringrose
chrishedgehog 17/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Dan Bailey
sebrider ?/Jul/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/04 -
nickdonohue ?/Aug/03 AltLd

Felt bold for the grade. Amazing to think of first ascensionists gear (or lack of)

with Mark McCarthy
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
snowboarder 15/Jun/03 AltLd
with Mark
220bpm 15/Jun/03 AltLd O/S

Fn great day out on the Ben

Hidden ??/2000 -
IanMcC 20/Jun/96 AltLd
with Jimbo
Hidden 16/Jun/96 AltLd
Yourlead 25/Sep/94 Lead
with Hugh Muchcamp
Hidden ??/1993 -
uphillnow ??/1965 Solo

Climbed in a light mist which swirled around. Kept pace with another soloist on a route to my left(Newbigging's)

Seymore Butt ?/Jul/63 AltLd
with John Whitfield, Jack
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Votes cast 26
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