Rockfax Description
Despite its modest height this route packs in some excellent climbing in increasingly exposed positions. Start at the top of the ramp below the large corner in the centre of the crag.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner, which soon becomes strenuous. At the top of the second bulge, join the diagonal crack on the steep right wall and follow this to a slab. Climb the slab to its end at a bulge. Move around this, high or low, to nut belays.
2) 4c, 15m. Make a tricky move to the right around a rib and onto a small slab. Follow this up to a ledge beneath a short steep wall. Move over this and belay on an old iron ring. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings.

Brian H 25/Jul Lead O/S

Led main pitch. Brilliant route.

with Martin Slater
alice fuller ?/Jun AltLd O/S

Pete cruised the meaty 1st pitch of this fantastic climb . Crag does have a friendly feel to it, but nothing modest about this route. Pete chose to do a hanging belay early confidently pointing me " up and left somehwhere. it will become obvious". After setting off and surveying the rock... I reported curtly : "No, I really don't think you finished that way before"... He got the guide book out while I hung from my finger tips... and realised he should have climbed further to the "comfy bay" to belay, and that the route actually finished to the right....I was then allowed on my way:) Amazing route

DredStripe 17/Apr Lead β

Had a bit of beta up to the first crux. ;) this route really does pack it in. Steep overhangy layback crack. Smeary feet slab. Good exposure. plus some good doses of mild terror. Well worth a visit.

with Cusco
dready 27/Mar Lead O/S

"proper E1" exposed and exciting only issue for me was the rope drag was hideous even with extenders oh and don't use all your gear too early as I did for increased pump whilst faffing trying to get a nut in when the cam you need is used below you ha ha bit of an epic really Awesome

whiteexplorer 27/Mar 2nd O/S
with joe
Hidden 26/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
NickJH 30/Jul/16 Lead
with Andy Dunhill
Pero 23/Jul/16 2nd
JackM92 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Brilliant! steep and super positive, gear solid all the way. Shame the top pitch is so short lived.

with Pero
Tom Seccombe 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2016 2nd O/S
with Colin
Spearos 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Master Chief 27/Sep/15 2nd dog

Mini epic adventure :)

jamie ward 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch - Very exiting route

with Luke Rooker
Mr Tickle 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Bit greasy, but great climb. Top end e1 I reckon.

RM199 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S
J.A.Thomson 11/Jul/15 AltLd dog
with Dan
Ian Jones 02/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Horribly hot.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
Hidden ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
Lee_Meaden 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Stuckey 18/Apr/15 AltLd
lawsy_boy1 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
5210Hill 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
dbrooks 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

led p.1, thoroughly enjoyable route, definitely worthy of it's 3 stars

with Dr Dave
Bristoldave 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Derwood
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Lottie T 07/Sep/14 2nd dog

Big struggle, an impressive adventure in hindsight! Lots of swirling water at the bottom, which was pretty for a while then quite sickening...! rope issues at the crux- no communication and being pulled off. Glad we did it though. sort of. :D

Jack J Keogan 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic route, fantastic position. A new experience for Lottie, but through it in one piece in the end!

RFWilkie 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Amazing route, worth coming to the crag just for this. Sadly dropped my size 6 dragon into the sea :-(

with Bec
Alex Mason 24/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jemma Powell
Dilwat 14/Jul/14 AltLd

I'd give this 4 stars if I could. Just brilliant.

with Dave P
nickstephens 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
gg4419 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Martin Cooper 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S


with Andrew
Hidden ??/2014 -
andy_pemberton 10/Nov/13 Lead

Such a good route. Done in one long pitch. All was going well until Dan couldn't get past a wet section in the initial corner. Lowered him to the base. Then had to diagonally ab to get (most of) my gear with blocks being dislodged off the lip above whizzing past. Semi-epic. Retreat via the VS. Full north coast experience no. 2!

with Dan Lear 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd
Marti999 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Luxulyan 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

In what felt like gale force winds. Had to weigh the ab rope down, platform was getting covered with swell, couldn't hear each other from 5 metres. Epic!

with Callum
callum brown 23/Jun/13 2nd

Pretty wild place in high winds and heavy seas! Good adventure!

with Rich
danJBA 28/May/13 Lead O/S
Kayan 28/May/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 29/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch, windy and big seas soaking the ledge, not the friendly crag or route I imagined, quite scary, strenuous with some iffy rock and gear, had a wobble or two, brilliant stance tho

with Jim
jgordon75 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Led P2 which is straightforward - take care with some suspect rock just before top-out. First pitch top end e1.

nick arding 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Philippa Arding
Philippa Arding 09/Aug/12 2nd
with nick arding 30/May/12 Lead dog

Wow. Great climb but hard work. Got to be 3 star and one of the harder E1's in the area. Initial corner great, steep wall really is steep, shouldn't have stalled at the lip of the slab! Belay was bomber and then the fun began! Started second pitch with awkward traverse right then headed directly up instead of taking another move right, realised I was wrong and as I stepped down I pulled a large block out of the face, interesting fall resulted. All well and finished route up to the right.

Joel Perkin 30/May/12 2nd

Interesting, great climbing but sustained. Simon took a scary fall after ripping a big block off.

with Simon Hammond
Dave Rumney 01/Apr/12 Lead
with Tanya Milner
gowla 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with will kumar
Hidden 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with michael porter
ruaidh 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Mike lead crux pitch. Sustained, technical, absorbing, exhausting. Three stars.

with Michael
msoldn 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 and finished in the dark. what a great way to finish a great day! Amasingly atmospheric, especially with big sea and dark rain clouds looming and fading daylight. Steep crux section, but great gear throughout.

with Rory
Si ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Greg
Nick Wallis ?/May/11 Lead


with Laura
Phil79 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Good steady lead by Pete through some impressive terrain. Felt hard due to lack of climbing this year.

Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Justin T 22/Aug/10 Lead

Onsight with first few bits of gear pre-placed.

with Crispin
feilx 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
Dilwat 25/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Nick
nickdonohue ?/Apr/10 Lead

Lots of rope drag at end of 1st pitch. Tried to exit early - mistake - pulled off loose block & fell then finished as per normal route description.

duncan 23/May/09 Lead O/S

A gem. Good value E1 5a/b.

chris wyatt 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Excellent exposure on top pitch . Did in one pitch but needs 60m rope

Steerpike 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Great first pitch - worth 3 stars

with Bruce
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Paz 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Really quite good, well worthy of a trip. It's almost like 2 E1/ hard HVS sections which makes it feel a bit hard, but the gear's more than good enough in the groove if you look for it and the change in style afterwards comes like a wonderful relief.

with AB
Hidden 26/Aug/07 2nd β
Macca_7 06/May/07 Lead O/S

Awesome pitch up an intimidating wall

with Oli Raymond-Barker
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Mark Davies PK 13/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Fiend
Mark Kemball 31/Jul/05 2nd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead O/S
Billg 17/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Roy Ruddle
Mark Kemball 25/Apr/98 Lead
with Jason Lloyd
Hidden 09/Apr/98 AltLd
andy_pemberton ??/1998 Lead

Done in a single pitch as didn't like the look of the belay. Lots of gear and an epic fall on the downclimb section from my second to be left free hanging! Full North Coast experience.

colin milton 05/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
kp64zl ?/Apr/92 AltLd
with Keith, Jason M
Hidden 04/Sep/90 2nd
clark alston ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S

Really good route.

with Alan Pow
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set