40m, 2 pitches. An alternative to the first pitch of VS Route, starting below and just right of the 2nd pitch corner. P1: start in a somewhat slimy bay and climb the clean rib at its right hand edge. Easy ground above leads to a second mini-tier where a belay is advisable to avoid rope drag and/or repetition of the titular first ascent. P2: climb the arete (crux, unprotected for 6m) at the left edge of a slimy, entirely gearless corner. Protection is eventually found in the form of a Camalot 3 near the top. Going up the corner has been tried and is not recommended! From here, easy ground leads left to the final part of P1 of VS Route (a right diagonal to reach the base of the crux corner). Re-belay for this.

A. Archibald, E. Maharg 13/Sep/2014


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