Restricted Access
Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.
Rockfax Description
An equally fine, and even longer companion route to Across the Wide Blue Yonder. Take 16 quick-draws and at least five longish slings (3 for runners towards the end, 2 to belay). 1) 6c+, 26m. Follow Passion off the Pitch and the Blue Swede's Shoes to its grassy ledge. Step rightwards past a couple of pockets and then pull up to gain the flakes on the wall above. Move up again and then step across to the Sidewinder belay. 2) 7a+, 35m. No really hard moves but lots of them. A strenuous horizontal hand-traverse leads right past a couple of semi-rests to a junction with Shake, Rattle and Roll. Continue along the break to its end and follow Rattletrap, past the pocket, to gain the sharp flake and clip the next bolt. Make moves to the right and gain good holds on From Beer to Infirmity then step up to a good resting place (high bolt here – long sling useful). Follow the break across to the arete and climb the final wall of The Gingerbread House. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An equally fine, harder and even longer companion route to Across the Wide Blue Yonder. Take 16 quick-draws and at least five longish slings (3 for runners towards the end, 2 to belay).
1. 26m F6c+ Follow Passion off the Pitch and the Blue Swede’s Shoes variant to its grassy ledge. Step rightwards past a couple of pockets and pull up to gain the obvious flakes on the wall. Move up again and then step across to the Sidewinder belay. Best to belay on slings to save rope for the next pitch.
2. 35m F7a+/b No really hard moves but lots of them. A strenuous horizontal hand-traverse leads right past a couple of semi-rests to a junction with Shake, Rattle and Roll. Continue along the break to its end and follow Rattletrap, past the pocket, to gain the sharp flake and clip the next bolt. Make moves to the right and gain good holds on From Beer to Infirmity then step up to a good resting place (high bolt here – long sling useful). Follow the break across to the arête and climb the final wall of The Gingerbread House.
Paul Clarke, Keith Morgan, Nigel Baker..
Ticklists
All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , Nigel Baker Ticklist
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blue Scar
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His Route Direct
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Raven Scar)