11m.

Rockfax Description
A good physical pitch. Jam the widening crack on the right - tricky to start - to reach ledges. Squirm up the wide chimney/crack to easier ground then mantel between 'the paps', or escape off right for an easier time. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Eastern Grit Jamming, Wide Cracks, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Thrutch and Clutch, UK road to wide crack mastery.


ClimberDateStyle
druss 08/Jul Lead rpt

Direct start was still hard! Unfinished business finished.

poeter210 08/Jul 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Jul 2nd
riff156 02/Jul Lead G/U

Took the easy option as would of been one hell of a fall if I'd slipped off the paps

with Dane
Hidden 11/Jun Lead O/S
g1m147 21/May Lead O/S
with Mick.
Hidden 20/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/May Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 06/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar 2nd O/S
royle883 25/Mar Lead O/S
Gareth Collom 08/Mar Lead dog

Got off the ground then managed to get a decent jam , moved up a bit then lost my feet and came off. Went round to the left rather than do the "paps" as big cam was too far off for comfort.

with Nik
Gympaul 31/Jul/16 Lead
Tubs 22/May/16 Lead O/S
with Naomi
w-watson 15/May/16 Lead
FlavioL1989 15/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/16 Lead G/U
Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Andypeak 17/Aug/15 Lead
druss 02/Aug/15 2nd dog

What a 'mare on lead. Struggled to find the beta for getting off the ground and then so pumped when finally got it. Swapped leads and still struggled on second. Bottom definitely the crux and felt hard for 4c, but I did the belly flop as a consolation! :)

poeter210 02/Aug/15 Lead β

No bellyflop

Chris Craggs 02/Aug/15 2nd

Hard start - impossible exit!

with Graham Parkes
Phil Layton 07/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Too knackered to get off the ground :(

with Phil Laxton
Hidden 23/May/15 Solo O/S
soph 04/May/15 Lead O/S
with Clare Jane carter, Becky Lounds
belay bunny turned bad 04/May/15 2nd
with soph, CJC
Hidden 01/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/15 2nd O/S
clairejane ?/May/15 2nd
with Sophie
morganator 26/Apr/15 Solo
bencole 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Heather Osborne 08/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Underestimated the start and messed up the first go, panicked and came down. Manned up and lead it second go, though I was really scared getting up the first crack! Loved the route and did the mantle finish (after a lot of faffing around!)

Hidden 08/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/14 2nd
PeteH 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Chris Fox
chris fox ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Jimbo C 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The jamming crack was greasy, steep and desperate. Did the paps mantel. Fierce.

with Chris, Spiros
Dan Geh 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
AMJ098 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
tgeh 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with imogene, adam jordan, dan geh
dannyboy83 01/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd
deacondeacon 22/May/14 Lead O/S

HVS 5a with the mantle. infact HVS 5a for the starting crack too.

john_ni 27/Apr/14 Lead O/S

chickened out of the top mantel as per guide

Oliver Houston ?/Apr/14 Lead β

Tim tried starting moves, I took over...

TimG 29/Mar/14 2nd β

tried to lead it. failed miserably, then 2nd oli up it

lukimotaka 16/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Josh
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
nimajneb ?/Feb/14 Lead
DaveFidler 02/Jan/14 Lead O/S
with Swiss Chlo?
lukimotaka ?/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
tgeh 26/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Liam
Tony Kartawick 06/Oct/13 Lead
with peat
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd
Dan Vaj 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Chidgey
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead dog
Harri777 06/May/13 2nd

HVS 5a in the guide, which seems more reasonable.

with Simon H
m675bowsl 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Kirby
will9911 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah little
Sam Simpson 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/12 2nd
patsaunders ?/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/12 2nd O/S
TRFrost 16/Sep/12 Lead β
with W. Hooke
Wil.Hooke 16/Sep/12 Lead β
with Frost
SuperstarDJ 09/Sep/12 2nd dnf

Epic fail. Struggled to get off the ground. I've not climbed enough 5a to know but certainly much harder than 4b. Won't be trying it again in a hurry. Looks a fine route though!

Just Another Dave 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Surely no more than VS 4c for the start - there are harder 4c jam cracks around!, but worth a comedy HVS 5a for the final mantel!

with Ian Lau
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd β
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead
adam carless 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

did the right hand 5a start and the HVS "hug the paps" finish. Made for quite a soft touch HVS 5a, but great quality,

SecretSquirrel 02/Sep/12 2nd
with j-ro
victim of mathematics 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S

5a to get off the ground, graunchy fun thereafter.

with J-Ro
stuaart 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Payne, Neil Redgrave
eel 18/Jun/12 Sent O/S
fatbuoybazza 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mikael
harold walmsley 22/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Hard to start but soon eases

Graeme Hammond 17/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Jim
Jim Slater 17/Mar/12 Lead rpt
john lynch 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden ??/2012 -
Steven Andrews 22/Oct/11 Lead

really tough start but then classic gritstone all the way to the top.

Mr. K 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Tamati 20/Sep/11 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 19/Sep/11 2nd
mark20 17/Sep/11 Lead β

On Matt's gear

Hidden 17/Sep/11 2nd
eel 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Oceanic 13/Aug/11 -
keith Lonsdale 02/Aug/11 2nd
andybirtwistle 02/Aug/11 Lead

4b?The route I did had a 5a start!Where does 4b come from? Definitive guide has 4c and Rockfax 5a

Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with loundsy
cragtyke 02/May/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jonathan Hall 16/Nov/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd
hrgcb 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with prinny
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
HimTiggins 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Graeme Hammond 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

not much gear but atleast its not hard

with Jim
Jim Slater 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S
RM199 ??/2010 Lead O/S

With papa topout. Awesome

buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
Hidden 28/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
James_D 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Definately HVS with the mantel finish.

with Mel
Mick r 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Scott, Martin
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Diggler 09/May/09 2nd
with dave connelly
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Charlie Jeynes
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
JWB 02/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Hard start...... definitly not a 4C start. HVS 5a in my guide book.

with Karen
Hidden ??/2009 -
Martin Haworth 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 19/Oct/08 2nd dog

Fell off initial crack!Very tough mantle exit.

howlingbaboon 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

with HVS mantle finish

Pilch 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S

not sure what grade this needs to be

with Graham and Ed
EdShep 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Pilch and Graham
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo O/S
John Lisle ??/2007 -
Hidden 10/Apr/05 Lead
kp64zl ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Keith
mikej 22/Jun/04 2nd
with Rick Naylor
cem 13/Apr/03 2nd
PenJD 19/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/02 Solo
ArnaudG ??/2002 -
with Penny
Hidden 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 19/Mar/00 -
with Ray Hughes, MT
Hidden ??/2000 -
Jamie B ?/May/99 Lead

Very physical, not a pushover at the grade!

with Anthony Celli
Roget 09/Oct/98 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/98 TR
Hidden ??/1997 -
Rog Wilko ?/Oct/96 Lead

sandbag.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 06/Jul/95 2nd
crossleysm ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/93 Solo
Hidden ?/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Andy Say 14/Mar/81 Solo
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
uphillnow ??/1980 -
Nigel Bond 04/Jun/78 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Hidden 29/Apr/78 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/77 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/77 Lead
Derek Ryden ??/1976 Solo O/S
rogerskews ??/1971 -
Hidden 16/Nov/68 -
mikej 25/Feb/67 Lead
with Frank Chester
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 36
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set