Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
N.B. the bouldery start, if done direct as described, is much harder than the remainder of the route. Use of the crack just to the left reduces the overall grade to a more consistent 6/6+: this now has its own entry in the database and can be logged as a route in its own right.
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Wye Valley Sport
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| pilates | 30 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Direct start tough bouldering problem. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Direct start tough bouldering problem. |
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| WyeValleyTashMan | 1 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Tried doing the bouldery start static but realised it’s much easier with a dyno especially if you’re short like me. Great route though flows well. | ||
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βeta: Tried doing the bouldery start static but realised it’s much easier with a dyno especially if you’re short like me. Great route though flows well. |
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| dprib123 | 30 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: Direct,long reach required. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Direct,long reach required. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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