UKC

450m. A fine mountaineering route that takes the longest line on the north face of The Angel's Peak (Sgor an Lochain Uaine), following the snow/ice all the way, and finishes at the summit of Munro.
It is located at the leftmost edge of the north face buttress. P1+P2 (100 metres) are the narrowest and steep ice and snow (up to tech 4), followed by 200 metres of snow slope (tech 2), the second part of which is quite broad, then ice wall straight above (15 metres, tech 4, crux), and finally icy snow slope (90 metres, tech 3). There was hardly any cornice at the time of the first ascent. The rocks around the route were mostly loose or shattered, or lack of cracks, and so offer few protections. Some turfs were quite thick and good, and so warthogs are useful.

Phil Ingle & Masa Sakano 22/Mar/2015.

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Route of Interest
Invernookie

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)

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