Rockfax Description
A pleasant climb based on the more classic Kirkus's Climb Direct. Start left of a drystone wall on the nose of the buttress.
1) 20m. Climb the chimney to reach a pinnacle/spike just above KCD's first belay. You can drop down to this, but most climb the pinnacle and move right at the top and down to belay in a cave.
2) 12m. Move up and left and climb the slab and flake onto a rib. Continue to the large grassy ledge belay.
3) 24m. Move left to below the arete and join KCD up a thin groove in the arete. Move left into a larger groove and head up via slabs. Move back right to the rib and follow a short crack to a triangular niche as for KCD pitch 3.
4) 13m Move right to a left-trending line up a slab to reach a large block belay. © Rockfax
The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , Colin Kirkus' routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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pancakeandchips | 30 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The description here appears to be for Kirkus Direct, not Kirkus' Climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The description here appears to be for Kirkus Direct, not Kirkus' Climb. |
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climbingrev | 22 May, 2019 |
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βeta: First few steep moves are brilliant but unprotected. Steep groove on P3 again really good but best to protect well before heading up it. | ||
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βeta: First few steep moves are brilliant but unprotected. Steep groove on P3 again really good but best to protect well before heading up it. |
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Grade: VD ***
(Y Lliwedd)