UKC

Rockfax Description
A pleasant climb based on the more classic Kirkus's Climb Direct. Start left of a drystone wall on the nose of the buttress.
1) 20m. Climb the chimney to reach a pinnacle/spike just above KCD's first belay. You can drop down to this, but most climb the pinnacle and move right at the top and down to belay in a cave.
2) 12m. Move up and left and climb the slab and flake onto a rib. Continue to the large grassy ledge belay.
3) 24m. Move left to below the arete and join KCD up a thin groove in the arete. Move left into a larger groove and head up via slabs. Move back right to the rib and follow a short crack to a triangular niche as for KCD pitch 3.
4) 13m Move right to a left-trending line up a slab to reach a large block belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , Colin Kirkus' routes

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User Date Notes
pancakeandchips 30 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The description here appears to be for Kirkus Direct, not Kirkus' Climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The description here appears to be for Kirkus Direct, not Kirkus' Climb.
climbingrev 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First few steep moves are brilliant but unprotected. Steep groove on P3 again really good but best to protect well before heading up it.
Show beta
βeta: First few steep moves are brilliant but unprotected. Steep groove on P3 again really good but best to protect well before heading up it.

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Votes cast 24
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red Wall and Longland's Continuation

Grade: VD ***
(Y Lliwedd)

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