Rockfax Description
A great route that picks its way up the nose of the crag.
1) 4a, 12m. Start at the toe of the rib, climb the short steep wall and move right to a block/tree belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb left onto a small pinnacle and then move up to the top of the larger pinnacle. Move right to below a steep groove and swing out right across the wall. Then move more easily up to the slab and follow it to a grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb the slab to a groove in the arete. Follow the groove to a short steep crack which leads onto a ledge. Move to the right-hand end of the ledge and up to the slab which leads to another ledge and belay.
4) 12m. Climb the right-hand groove to easier ground. © Rockfax

Biff0r 17/Sep 2nd

Part of club training secure belays and anchors - 5 pitch climb With Anna and Kris

John Geoffrey 27/Aug 2nd O/S

Description and grade on UKC is for the Direct, but this is what the route was called in the Meirionydd CC guide (VDiff).

with Fiona
FDixon 27/Aug Lead O/S

Did in 2 pitches for speed - not a good idea, ridiculous drag

Jordan725 15/Aug Lead O/S
with Sam
asham77 15/Aug 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun Lead
jimted 23/Apr AltLd
with Richard 17/Apr AltLd
Callumbuch96 27/Mar AltLd
jamesk93 27/Mar AltLd O/S

I lead P1 and 3, Callum lead 2 and 4. Pretty sure we went off route, as about half the distance was done unprotected and run out. Luckily the rock is extra grippy!

Teresa54321 23/Mar 2nd
Ron Rees Davies 10/Jan AltLd
Hidden 10/Jan AltLd O/S
sivy100 16/Oct/16 Lead G/U
with Marcin Piela
Hidden 01/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/16 2nd O/S
foostu4 02/Jul/16 Solo O/S
BBEENN ?/Jul/16 Lead
BBEENN ?/Jul/16 Lead
RivalAllan 15/Jun/16 2nd
hairy51 12/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
10029759 12/Jun/16 AltLd G/U
GDS 01/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with mike p
Si 26/May/16 Lead

Working. Teaching leading

Hidden 14/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 10/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/May/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
davebrox ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 Solo
AlistairBerridge 11/Oct/15 2nd O/S

Part of BMC course. Did first 2 pitches then abbed off for practice. Great route, will need to finish it!

BarrySW19 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Was intending the Direct, but seem to have ended up doing this as it was more direct.

crag_hopper_Jay 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Howard J 05/Sep/15 Lead dnf

This is described as the Direct in Rockfax Pokketz but I think they've got it wrong. I made a complete mess of the second pitch. I got onto the traverse with some difficulty but ran out of holds and couldn't see how to get any further right. I managed to scuttle back so the inevitable fall turned out to be only a slump onto gear. We took advantage of a grassy gully leading off the belay to bale out. A lot harder than I was expecting, yet looking at my log apparently I led this pitch only a couple of years ago - I wish I could remember how!

with Jon Edwards
SDaSilva 15/Aug/15 AltLd

S 4a 2*

ChrisGard 14/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris Lucas
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Matt Bill Platypus 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Thought I had done this before....I am pretty sure I have, just don't know when!

with Helen F
hannah4556 07/Aug/15 Lead
Katie S ?/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/15 -
kivell 30/May/15 Lead
with ashly beynon, mike beynon
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead
kivell 17/May/15 Lead
with craig james
Steve Woollard 12/May/15 AltLd

Cold, windy & wet!

with Donald
Andy Morley 02/Apr/15 AltLd
with Caitlin Bell
Hidden ??/2015 -
becci_amos ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Puma 16/Aug/14 AltLd

Simon P1 and P3, me P2 and P4. A nice little adventure and with the exception of the lowest section, the gear is sound and never very strenuous.

Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd
runwildjohn 03/Aug/14 AltLd

Alice led p2+4, I led p1+3

Alice_Horton 03/Aug/14 AltLd
lithos ?/Aug/14 Lead
with karl c
Ron Rees Davies 17/Jul/14 Lead
with Tizz
Tizz 17/Jul/14 2nd
with Dad
Benstar ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd
Pete_Frost 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Fun. I led P1&2 together as one pitch. Climbed in big boots.

with Bud
Kaylee 15/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/14 Lead
S1LL 28/Feb/14 AltLd
Kev Webster 05/Feb/14 Lead G/U
with Jamie Boutle
stephheeley ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
DaveHall246 21/Jul/13 Lead
with Chris Hall
Davy Taylor 16/Jul/13 AltLd

Day 3 Course

with Plas Y Brenin
Martin Davies 13/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
runestone 02/Jun/13 AltLd
Howard J 02/Jun/13 AltLd rpt

Steve led 1st and 3rd pitches, I led 2nd and 4th

paulerussell 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, lovely route.

with Oliver, Jason
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead O/S
A Jackson 15/Apr/13 Lead
ElvisLeg 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Sally
Steveb27 ??/2013 Solo
CashaJones 28/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 27/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
stephheeley 22/Sep/12 2nd
Simon Cahill 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Started on the VD diff route, Steve ended up at the belay for the top of pitch 2, not sure if we where on or off the VD diff route. I finished up the direct route at S4a

with Steve
runestone 28/Aug/12 AltLd

led pitch 1 and 2 of 4

with Simon
cf2g08 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
will5001 07/Aug/12 Lead O/S

First Multipitch lead. Interesting chimney start

Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/12 -
wilf 17/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Andy P!, me 2+3, Nick 4. Tricky chimney start then varied climbing on mostly good juggy rock.

with Andy, nick f
akhutton88 05/Jun/12 2nd

In the Rain. Dropped a rope back to do the direct S variant. Lovely climbing, even in the wet! Nasty start.

Hidden 19/May/12 Lead
cjohn62 13/May/12 Lead
with pete s
popov86 08/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden 12/Nov/11 AltLd
quarrtman1 26/Oct/11 2nd

Mock student for MIA candidate

Hidden 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Rory Southworth 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Dana
marcusmarcus1 08/Sep/11 2nd O/S

RCI teaching day assessment with Dave Murphy

with Jon pilling, Ben Paul
Jon Pilling 08/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with Ben Paull
ashsleight 08/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and 2 gaz led 3 and 4. Not nice in the wet.

theone 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Climbed when it was a S grade, dont think it should be a VD,very confused on the 2 and 3 route directions.

Captainjoey 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Reasonablly good climb. Although, on the day it was very windy and there were spots of rain. But we reached the top in the end and it was glorious.....

with ricky
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd
Lawrie Brand 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Lawrence Eccles 04/Jul/11 Solo O/S
john.gaffney 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Dan lead 5a pitch

with dan m
Bob Windsor ?/Jun/11 Lead
with paul trower
Mike Caine 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with George
Hidden 20/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr/11 AltLd
dan_o_b ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
qJoeq ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Dad
stevev ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Guto Evans 09/Oct/10 AltLd

Lead pitch 2 and 4

with Rob Collard
James Worthington 30/Sep/10 2nd
with Neil
Nordic 25/Sep/10 AltLd
with Alan Hardie, Norman Wright
Ian Archer 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Jodie Munks
Ben ski 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Done in heavy rain, added an extra challenge! Great chimney start that you literally have to get stuck into.

with John
ross duffield 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

led 1&3

with row
slik tommy 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

great route for a chilled out day. don't underestimate the awkward chimney start.

Hidden 31/Jul/10 -
tsjx 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
justin burgoyne ?/Jul/10 Lead
moelfras 19/Jun/10 -
moelfras 19/Jun/10 Lead
SamuelHarris 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Prof
Hidden 02/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd
richprideaux 10/Apr/10 AltLd
with Alan Rossiter
cooper leek 02/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with mudway
idiotproof (Buxton MC) ??/2010 -
sionjosh ??/2010 -
taw ??/2010 AltLd

Led 1&3 seemed a bit disappointing when repeated

with Rachael Harrison
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Neil Metcalfe101 25/Oct/09 AltLd

I had lost my mojo and didnt think I even wanted to climb. Told Phil and he offered to lead all pitches if necessary,'What a Guy'?. This allowed me to get started and all was fine so led alternate pitches. As it looked more greasy in the chimney started on the direct route. Allan & Andy climbed Kirkus's direct. Bit greasy but just got a dry spell to do 2 routes.

Hidden 14/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
pbb081079 14/Sep/09 Lead
muttley_109 ?/Sep/09 2nd O/S
eddie coughlin 22/Jul/09 2nd
with George Best
fordie77 08/Jul/09 2nd

Lots of variety to this route, from caves to aretes! Lots of fun.

AlastairB 08/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Belayed from the first 'cave' in the first pitch so communication was an issue on the second pitch. First pitch was certainly very traditional!

jumpingjimminy 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

1 & 3

with Ellie
Hidden 29/May/09 Lead O/S
allanfarrell 07/May/09 2nd O/S

Leader was Dave 3 the instructor

with Emma Turnbull
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Bigedthehead 19/Apr/09 -
Neil Metcalfe101 11/Apr/09 AltLd

I lead 1st then alternate.

with Allan Mac
stordys ??/2009 -
peter myers ??/2009 AltLd
with Ralph Heath
MarkFoster ??/2009 -
rich_greeny 26/Aug/08 AltLd

Wet conditions, belayed in the wrong "cave belay" on the 1st pitch, which gave a lot of rope drag for the next pitch!

with Toby Pitts-Tucker
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd
chammy2008 ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
chedder 04/Jun/08 -
with john roe
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd
Hidden ?/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/08 AltLd
Hidden 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
alwyn101 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
taw ??/2008 AltLd
with Dave sb
davesb ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Lady Lou Lou ?/Oct/07 2nd
with Sandy Holford
King Smudger 31/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Mark Bristow
tanssop 20/Jul/07 2nd
with Ian
Hidden 23/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jun/07 Lead
Ian Archer 06/May/07 AltLd
with Paul Lee
Hidden 22/Apr/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/07 2nd
flatcap 24/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

A bit daunted at the beginning (trouble placing gear), but after that a lovely climb.

with Jamie
Hidden 11/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
RiPomc 11/Mar/07 AltLd

A windy, cold, but unexpectedly dry day. Belay gloves essential. We may have wandered onto the Severe direct alternative at times, but it all adds to the fun.

with James Carpenter
idiotproof (Buxton MC) ??/2007 -

Like a waterfall

fran04 ??/2007 Lead
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
little trev ??/2007 Lead
with rory
pad-rat 13/Oct/06 Lead
Sandy Holford ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Pete Tecks
Hidden 24/Sep/06 Lead O/S
mike_hough_uk 09/Sep/06 AltLd
with Cathy Randall
Hidden 08/Jul/06 Lead
Martyn 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Simon Bayliss
Sandy P ?/Jul/06 -
with Joel Barker
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Danny Boy Dunbar 16/May/06 AltLd O/S

Wet, Summer course.

with Fruit Bat
Neil Metcalfe101 13/May/06 2nd O/S
with Allan Mac
Lizard ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
with Moose
Hidden ?/May/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
sgl0jd ?/Feb/06 AltLd
with Tom Devas
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
technex ??/2006 2nd β
with Sandy Holford
Hidden 17/Oct/05 2nd
SuperstarDJ 22/Sep/05 2nd

Also done with Paul Anson. Great route, a nice variety in the pitches again (Lee made sure we got the best routes I think). Lee led with Paul and myself alternating the seconding, whilst placing gear on second.

with Lee from Plas-Y-Brenin
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead
max_chan ?/May/05 2nd
with Lou
ewen ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
John Kettle ?/Apr/05 AltLd
with ewen
davesb ??/2005 AltLd
taw ??/2005 AltLd

Who knows when..

with Dave sb
John Kettle ??/2005 Lead
petebale2000 05/Aug/04 AltLd rpt
petebale2000 05/Aug/04 2nd O/S
Zoomer 15/May/04 Lead
with Hiedi Sparks
Rock Fairy ?/Aug/03 Lead
with Ian
mikej 15/Feb/03 Lead
with E
John Roe 05/Aug/01 AltLd

A good star to th MRS summer course, all in big boots with Chris (Leuchars) doing most of the leading

with Chris Thorne
NewLeaf ?/Aug/00 2nd
Mike_T0501 22/Mar/99 AltLd
Hidden 22/Mar/99 AltLd
Tarquin ??/1999 -
Howard J 20/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Paul Smith
steviewindsurf ??/1997 Lead O/S
with MRT
nickdonohue 02/Jun/96 Lead
pete_fewings ??/1996 Lead O/S
Mike_T0501 19/Aug/95 AltLd
Ian Robertson ??/1995 -
with Krystina Lotoczko
babymoac 07/Aug/94 Lead
with Ashley & Nick
Hidden 25/Jun/94 Lead
Iain Thow 05/Sep/93 Solo
Mike_T0501 21/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
Rampikino 14/Apr/93 Lead
Fiskavaig ??/1992 Lead
with Young Dave L
nigehughes ?/Apr/89 AltLd
with Tommy Pilling
sdht ??/1989 -
nigehughes ?/Sep/84 AltLd
with Ron Taylor
hazeysunshine 01/Aug/84 AltLd O/S
with Jo
John Marsland ??/1980 2nd
with Dave Nicholson (HMC)
kjacks ??/1975 Lead
with Anthony Griffiths
Bob M ??/1975 -
Sean Kelly ?/Sep/74 Lead
with Graham Thompson & Steve Berisford
Rob Davies 31/Mar/73 Lead
with John Lumley, Allan Sleight
Rob Davies 22/Aug/72 2nd

On Plas-y-Brenin course

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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 20
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set