UKC

Rockfax Description
A great route that picks its way up the nose of the crag.
1) 4a, 12m. Start at the toe of the rib, climb the short steep wall and move right to a block/tree belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb left onto a small pinnacle and then move up to the top of the larger pinnacle. Move right to below a steep groove and swing out right below the main wall/slab. Move around the bulge to gain the slab above. Then climb more easily up to the slab and follow it to a grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb the slab to a groove in the arete. Follow the groove to a short steep crack which leads onto a ledge. Move to the right-hand end of the ledge and up to the slab which leads to another ledge and belay at a triangular niche.
4) 12m. Climb the right-hand groove to easier ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starting at the stone wall at the foot of the buttress this takes a direct line up the arete.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Kirkus Routes , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Solos , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , Colin Kirkus' routes , No you're a punter

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User Date Notes
milanboez 12 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Cracking route. Pitch 2 I'd grade HS (poor protection) and low 4b though! Not sure why pitch 3 is 4a as there are no difficult moves (just really nice climbing). After pitch 1 and 2 you can chill and enjoy the rest of this great climb. Should be 3 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cracking route. Pitch 2 I'd grade HS (poor protection) and low 4b though! Not sure why pitch 3 is 4a as there are no difficult moves (just really nice climbing). After pitch 1 and 2 you can chill and enjoy the rest of this great climb. Should be 3 stars.
CloveBitch Betty 17 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch route can be easily misinterpreted. Easy climbing but large runout of rope from the first belay pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second pitch route can be easily misinterpreted. Easy climbing but large runout of rope from the first belay pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 124
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 116
Votes cast 122
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Poor Man's Peuterey

Grade: S 4a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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