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The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.

The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

Rockfax Description
An eliminate. From the left side of the large flake climb between the left arete and the large horizontal break. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Reggie Roy 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Top crimps are crumbly and sharp, care needed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top crimps are crumbly and sharp, care needed.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head

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Voting
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Clandestine

Grade: f6B ***
(Longstone Ope)

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