The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not live (all weekends & on Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. The eastern end of the platform gets wet VERY QUICKLY once the tides is in, but the left-hand section is non-tidal. Cautionary note; This platform can become a very serious place to belay if the sea gets up.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting restriction (1st March - 1st August) includes King Prawn to Luck of the Devil inclusive. Note: The abseil hole may be used to access non-restricted climbs only but please do not loiter in the area of the hole as this will prevent birds from accessing their nest site and feeding chicks.
FA. P.Donnithorne, B.Brewer 15/Sep/2012.
The Best of Pembroke , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Longsufferingropeholder | 6 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: This does not look like the picture in the book | βeta? | |
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βeta: This does not look like the picture in the book |
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Oscar Popels | 1 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: As mentioned above, a huge pillar has collapsed. Many tons of rock gone from this face. | βeta? | |
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βeta: As mentioned above, a huge pillar has collapsed. Many tons of rock gone from this face. |
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LRob | 18 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Either a terrible route or a terrible description. I find it hard to justify the 3 stars on this route. It has a poor description in the cc book. Couldn't find the 'niche' so followed what is clearly a chimney. Second pitch is puzzling and poorly protected if you follow the topo. On the whole A disappointment and would recommend doing the other E3's here first. The 2 star routes are way better than this one. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Either a terrible route or a terrible description. I find it hard to justify the 3 stars on this route. It has a poor description in the cc book. Couldn't find the 'niche' so followed what is clearly a chimney. Second pitch is puzzling and poorly protected if you follow the topo. On the whole A disappointment and would recommend doing the other E3's here first. The 2 star routes are way better than this one. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Saddle Head)