Rockfax Description
A Pembroke classic which soars up and out over the sea with more buckets than a garden centre. It is usually done in one pitch but can be split at a small stance if the tide threatens. Start beneath a line of grooves 5m left of the corner.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up to the base of the first groove and follow it to a bulge. Power around this then swing up and right to a jutting flake (hands-off rest possible!). Continue up cracks to a well-positioned stance.
2) 5b, 15m. Pull into the upper groove and follow it more easily to the top. Stake belay well back. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, R.Harrison 13/Aug/1977.
Ticklists
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Rock 2020 , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cianchi's Hit List , Pembroke E4s (ish) , 2025 , Guy's Pembroke dreams
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 30 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: The stake isn’t that far back. It’s a few metres beyond the first little rocky outcrop after topping out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The stake isn’t that far back. It’s a few metres beyond the first little rocky outcrop after topping out. |
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| Misha | 30 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: First thread is serviceable but worth backing up. Thread just below the crux is getting old - can be replaced on lead / second from a good knee bar. Thread below that is also getting old but would be an abseil job. Tat on the peg seemed decent but it’s a bit off route anyway. Thread on the belay seems fine. In situ nut 8 is gone. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First thread is serviceable but worth backing up. Thread just below the crux is getting old - can be replaced on lead / second from a good knee bar. Thread below that is also getting old but would be an abseil job. Tat on the peg seemed decent but it’s a bit off route anyway. Thread on the belay seems fine. In situ nut 8 is gone. |
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| Misha | 31 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Thread below the crux could do with replacing and the tat on the peg above the crux is past its sell by date but there’s other gear available in both cases. The other threads are currently good, including on the belay. There’s currently a nut 8 just above the post crux rest - should come out with some hammering if someone happens to have a hex to hand. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Thread below the crux could do with replacing and the tat on the peg above the crux is past its sell by date but there’s other gear available in both cases. The other threads are currently good, including on the belay. There’s currently a nut 8 just above the post crux rest - should come out with some hammering if someone happens to have a hex to hand. |
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| GDes | 29 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: gobsmacking. a collection of the biggest holds in the universe. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: gobsmacking. a collection of the biggest holds in the universe. |
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| hutch | 26 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Classic! Definitely worth linking the two pitches together. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Classic! Definitely worth linking the two pitches together. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Surely one of the best E3's in Pembroke when done as one, very long glorious pitch? First pitch was a bit pumpy for me though and took some good swooping falls! Good tip, use the big flakes rather than avoiding them! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Surely one of the best E3's in Pembroke when done as one, very long glorious pitch? First pitch was a bit pumpy for me though and took some good swooping falls! Good tip, use the big flakes rather than avoiding them! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Cave Heart
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Mount Sion West)