Rockfax Description
A massive and absorbing traverse along the break underneath the roofs which is great for those who like a big adventure. The climbing is committing and a well-balanced experienced team essential. Often greasy and guano is a problem after the bird nesting season so leave it until later in the year, or get in early before 1 March.
1) 4b, 20m. From the abseil ledge, go left to a belay below the chimney of Chimnastics.
2) 5b, 20m. Continue along the break to a hard move down and a belay in the back of a big recess.
3) 4c, 25m. Traverse out and along to a small ledge belay.
4) 5a, 15m. Traverse to a hanging stance on the edge of a massive recess.
5) 5a, 33m. Follow the break into the cave and a belay by a cleft.
6) 5a, 18m. Traverse back out to a stance past a thread.
7) 5c, 24m. Crawl along a ledge then down and around until you can reach a hanging belay before an arete.
8) 5a, 40m. Pass the arete and continue past a big corner and on to a belay on the nose.
9) 5b, 30m. Swing along the break and then up onto a terrace.
10) 4a, 20m. Climb a crack to the top. © Rockfax

FA. E.Alsford, P.Donnithorne 11/Jan/1992.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Extreme Rock II

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