Rockfax Description
A brilliant line that is incredibly sustained and at the top of the VS grade. The climbing links two huge corner systems to the right of the rib of Acheron. Although appearances would suggest otherwise the amount of vegetation in view does not really get in the way of the climbing.
1) 4c, 36m. Climb the corner until it steepens and then move up right into another shorter corner. Climb the wide crack and then move up and right to a large grass ledge and flake and nut belay.
2) 4c, 28m. Move right and climb a rib to more open ground. Sustained climbing slightly left and then right gains a position below an overhang in the corner. Make an awkward pull over the overhang and climb the corner a few metres to a small block and good nut belays.
3) 4c, 36m. Move up the corner for a couple of metres and step left to a niche on the slab. Follow the excellent crack up the slab and go left to a spike on the arete. Continue up the corner above until it becomes choked with grass and from a good nut make a difficult step left across the slab to easier ground. Climb direct up the slab and then grass to a big tree below bulging rock.
4) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic line joining and then following the prominent left facing corner high on Craig Llywelyn.

J A Summer, A Gillis 03/Nov/1968

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, High Quality Adventure routes, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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UserDateNotes
Gingerlings 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The descent ramp is hard to find and very steep.
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βeta: The descent ramp is hard to find and very steep.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gingerlings 21 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S It had been dry and 20 degrees for a week but the route was still quite wet, thankfully not where it mattered for the first couple of pitches though, but it did make it feel more like HVS. The third and four pitch are so vegetated at the moment they are not worth doing, better to save yourself the mud, heather and terrifying descent by abseiling off the second pitch, the best of the climbing is done by then anyway.
with Alessandro
It had been dry and 20 degrees for a week but the route was still quite wet, thankfully not where it mattered for the first couple of pitches though, but it did make it feel more like HVS. The third and four pitch are so vegetated at the moment they are not worth doing, better to save yourself the mud, heather and terrifying descent by abseiling off the second pitch, the best of the climbing is done by then anyway.
with Alessandro
JohnH1977 28 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?Jul, 2019 AltLd
with Uncle john
with Uncle john
Hidden 20 Apr, 2019 -
jessieleong 20 Apr, 2019 Lead Lead p2. Quite interesting climbing- gear where you need it, but it ain’t like climbing in the pass! A head for heights ( each pitch is fairly long and steep) but the committing pull is actually all good. Good runners and extenders make it ok- belay is quite high past the ab tat above the awkward step up. Enjoyable and worth seeking out ( perfect for a hot blast of a sunny day)
with Emma Crome, Guy Buckingham
Lead p2. Quite interesting climbing- gear where you need it, but it ain’t like climbing in the pass! A head for heights ( each pitch is fairly long and steep) but the committing pull is actually all good. Good runners and extenders make it ok- belay is quite high past the ab tat above the awkward step up. Enjoyable and worth seeking out ( perfect for a hot blast of a sunny day)
with Emma Crome, Guy Buckingham
alvaroBV 31 Mar, 2019 AltLd dnf Led pitch 2. DNF as pitch 3 was soaking wet. Nice exposure on the overhang pull off pitch 2. Even though there had been a 5/6 days spell with no rain, it still stays wet this time of the year, it doesn't really get that much sun. Nice views and nice route, pitch 2 probably on the high end of VS
with RSabin
Led pitch 2. DNF as pitch 3 was soaking wet. Nice exposure on the overhang pull off pitch 2. Even though there had been a 5/6 days spell with no rain, it still stays wet this time of the year, it doesn't really get that much sun. Nice views and nice route, pitch 2 probably on the high end of VS
with RSabin
RSabin 31 Mar, 2019 AltLd dnf A lot of seepage meant feet could not be trusted. We completed the first two pitches and decided not to continue past the second belay point due to wet and slippery conditions at the start of pitch three. Otherwise the rock was good and the route was well protected, except in the overhang at the end of the second pitch.
A lot of seepage meant feet could not be trusted. We completed the first two pitches and decided not to continue past the second belay point due to wet and slippery conditions at the start of pitch three. Otherwise the rock was good and the route was well protected, except in the overhang at the end of the second pitch.
Chris Manasseh 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd Led 2 + 4
with Jonah Jones
Led 2 + 4
with Jonah Jones
Doug Kerr 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S A very worthwhile expedition with sustained interest. Bone dry today. Would be a different proposition with any dampness. Clean enough where it matters. Littered with a surprising quantity of old abandoned gear; friends, wires along with tat/crabs on just about every stance. Amazingly we were not alone, we followed Rick and Angela up the route (who were great company) which was especially nice as it was Angela's birthday!
A very worthwhile expedition with sustained interest. Bone dry today. Would be a different proposition with any dampness. Clean enough where it matters. Littered with a surprising quantity of old abandoned gear; friends, wires along with tat/crabs on just about every stance. Amazingly we were not alone, we followed Rick and Angela up the route (who were great company) which was especially nice as it was Angela's birthday!
AngelaC 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd Great climb and well chosen by Rick being North facing, on a hot sunny day - also helps that there was a long spell of hot weather to dry up the moss, grass and lichen. Bonus to have the company of Doug and Steve, who followed us up the route!!
Great climb and well chosen by Rick being North facing, on a hot sunny day - also helps that there was a long spell of hot weather to dry up the moss, grass and lichen. Bonus to have the company of Doug and Steve, who followed us up the route!!
Different Steve 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S A grand day out!
A grand day out!
Simon Caldwell 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd dnf Got 2/3 of the way up pitch 1 to find that what looked like the crux was wet and slimy. So after some dithering, lowered off (free gear available for the next to climb it). Did enough to want to get back and complete it!
with Lemming
Got 2/3 of the way up pitch 1 to find that what looked like the crux was wet and slimy. So after some dithering, lowered off (free gear available for the next to climb it). Did enough to want to get back and complete it!
with Lemming
Helen Rudkin 4 Apr, 2016 -
with joedoherty, Chris Sawden
with joedoherty, Chris Sawden
Tim Francis 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S pack a head torch if starting late. we didn't!
pack a head torch if starting late. we didn't!
Stanners 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Robbie got his head down at the bottom whilst me and Giles set off for a final rapid ascent of the day. The third pitch was very memorable - epic.
with Giles
Robbie got his head down at the bottom whilst me and Giles set off for a final rapid ascent of the day. The third pitch was very memorable - epic.
with Giles
George_Surf 1 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S not all that dirty, but fairly sustained. charlie took p1 up the big corner with a few tricky moves. p2 also quite difficult moving up to and through the overlap. bit of grass where you dont want it! belay pegs gone but ample wires. charlie took p3 which was really nice with good gear and steady climbing. pulled off two big blocks from this pitch. unfortuneatly ends in grass, then another short wall and more grass. descent down the terrace is pretty aweful.
not all that dirty, but fairly sustained. charlie took p1 up the big corner with a few tricky moves. p2 also quite difficult moving up to and through the overlap. bit of grass where you dont want it! belay pegs gone but ample wires. charlie took p3 which was really nice with good gear and steady climbing. pulled off two big blocks from this pitch. unfortuneatly ends in grass, then another short wall and more grass. descent down the terrace is pretty aweful.
Pinguville 1 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S lead P1 and P3 ... pretty exciting route , hardest lead ive done yet (high end VS id say ) tricky move before belay spot on P1 and crux on P2 was a hard one ! leading P3 was lovely great gear and awesome exposed climbing , we cleaned as we went along , was somewhat green not bad anywhere though. Its a memorable big mountain route and very sustained ...definitely an experience ! not totally worth three stars in my opinion
lead P1 and P3 ... pretty exciting route , hardest lead ive done yet (high end VS id say ) tricky move before belay spot on P1 and crux on P2 was a hard one ! leading P3 was lovely great gear and awesome exposed climbing , we cleaned as we went along , was somewhat green not bad anywhere though. Its a memorable big mountain route and very sustained ...definitely an experience ! not totally worth three stars in my opinion
Paul Hy 11 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S P2 - P4, great route.
with Mick B
P2 - P4, great route.
with Mick B
nodwas 3 Jul, 2015 AltLd Awesome clean climb! Largish Loose block on the third pitch but can go round it, precarious decent!
Awesome clean climb! Largish Loose block on the third pitch but can go round it, precarious decent!
rushy11111918 16 May, 2015 AltLd
with Kin Choi
with Kin Choi
Skinny Kin 16 May, 2015 AltLd O/S We were going to do Acheron. But Matt climbed up the right hand side of the slab as he didn't fancy the vegetated left hand side of the slab. When I was leading 2nd pitch, I thought the descriptions didn't add up. After climbing up and down the slab on the right hand side a few times, Matt had a look at his Rock Fax topo photo on his phone and realised we were on Doom instead of Acheron, which made loads of sense. What Matt should've done was to stay left on the initial slab for a bit longer and then take a right. Mistake easily done when 2 routes are so close together. The pull over the slight overhanging corner on P2 was quite good. Bit wet on the slab on P3 but the crucial holds were positive and good gear. Dry day but cool for May.
with Matthew Rushsworth
We were going to do Acheron. But Matt climbed up the right hand side of the slab as he didn't fancy the vegetated left hand side of the slab. When I was leading 2nd pitch, I thought the descriptions didn't add up. After climbing up and down the slab on the right hand side a few times, Matt had a look at his Rock Fax topo photo on his phone and realised we were on Doom instead of Acheron, which made loads of sense. What Matt should've done was to stay left on the initial slab for a bit longer and then take a right. Mistake easily done when 2 routes are so close together. The pull over the slight overhanging corner on P2 was quite good. Bit wet on the slab on P3 but the crucial holds were positive and good gear. Dry day but cool for May.
with Matthew Rushsworth
suds_01 16 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Stu Bracher
with Stu Bracher
mapperley samurai 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Adventurous feel with a fair bit of gardening en route. The belay peg at the top of P2 mentioned in the climbers club guide is no longer usable - just a stub. I continued on, combining pitch 2&3, and finding a good stance on the final slab (approx 50 mtrs combined).
Adventurous feel with a fair bit of gardening en route. The belay peg at the top of P2 mentioned in the climbers club guide is no longer usable - just a stub. I continued on, combining pitch 2&3, and finding a good stance on the final slab (approx 50 mtrs combined).
davidalcock 3 May, 2014 AltLd I did pitch 1, Kevin ran 2 and the lower has of 3 together due to missing the rotted peg, I finished to top. Good, varied climbing, requiring a thoughtful approach. Quite run out in places. We both felt p2 was the crux - 5a?
I did pitch 1, Kevin ran 2 and the lower has of 3 together due to missing the rotted peg, I finished to top. Good, varied climbing, requiring a thoughtful approach. Quite run out in places. We both felt p2 was the crux - 5a?
caradoc 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd Dry but a lot of veg. Maybe 3 stars if it was clean. Very tough in the wet I should think. http://youtu.be/CKjT_GF7MOI
with john b
Dry but a lot of veg. Maybe 3 stars if it was clean. Very tough in the wet I should think. http://youtu.be/CKjT_GF7MOI
with john b
TCarrick 27 Jul, 2013 Lead
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
te77yb 20 Jul, 2013 2nd dog My first outdoor fall on pitch 2! Felt pretty tough for the grade with a lot of loose rock and some jungle bashing!
My first outdoor fall on pitch 2! Felt pretty tough for the grade with a lot of loose rock and some jungle bashing!
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Pay Attention 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with MD
with MD
MD 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p1 and p3. Climbing good but vegetated top out and descent.
Led p1 and p3. Climbing good but vegetated top out and descent.
DubyaJamesDubya ?Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Led twice in 2013 but still no Archeron
Led twice in 2013 but still no Archeron
Steve Lenartowicz 10 Aug, 2012 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
Hidden 27 May, 2012 2nd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
gareth scott borthwick 4 May, 2011 AltLd
Maria (Spanny) Xusa 4 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Amazing! Best vs so far... i led the very last one (im still a beginner)
Amazing! Best vs so far... i led the very last one (im still a beginner)
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Apr, 2011 AltLd
seb m-c 3 Sep, 2010 2nd Brilliant, just brilliant. Can see why it would be evil in the wet!
with Martin Callaghan
Brilliant, just brilliant. Can see why it would be evil in the wet!
with Martin Callaghan
twright180 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 15 Jun, 2009 2nd
Hidden 15 Jun, 2009 Lead
mlmatt 13 Jun, 2009 AltLd Althought it says clean onsite, the climb was far from clean lol! was a greta route however!
with Uncle Rob, Nicky
Althought it says clean onsite, the climb was far from clean lol! was a greta route however!
with Uncle Rob, Nicky
David Rose 6 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S This is simply a fantastic route in a beautiful valley: sustained at a decent VS standard on excellent rock for 120 metres. A gem.
with Nick Isaac
This is simply a fantastic route in a beautiful valley: sustained at a decent VS standard on excellent rock for 120 metres. A gem.
with Nick Isaac
sgl0jd ?Jun, 2007 - Still worth its three stars. Really interesting sustained and well positioned climbing
with Steve Hobbs
Still worth its three stars. Really interesting sustained and well positioned climbing
with Steve Hobbs
Hidden 14 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
timmy-ts ??, 2007 -
thomasholyoak ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S TH 1st & 3rd
with DS
TH 1st & 3rd
with DS
Matt Bill Platypus 14 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Think this was the one we did!
with Fidget
Think this was the one we did!
with Fidget
Mark Stevenson 30 May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Tess
with Tess
Hidden ?Oct, 2003 AltLd
nrg8125 14 Sep, 2002 Lead still wet after 6 days!
still wet after 6 days!
Nigel Coe ??, 1997 -
alan moore ??, 1995 -
babymoac 30 Apr, 1994 AltLd
with Kathy & Carolyn
with Kathy & Carolyn
andy tetsill ?Aug, 1991 Lead
AndrewP ?Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
Darron ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1978 -
Hidden 30 Jun, 1973 Lead
tapley 13 Sep, 1969 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
with Dave Hearnshaw
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 25
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set