Rockfax Description
A brilliant line that is incredibly sustained and at the top of the VS grade. The climbing links two huge corner systems to the right of the rib of Acheron. Although appearances would suggest otherwise the amount of vegetation in view does not really get in the way of the climbing.
1) 4c, 36m. Climb the corner until it steepens and then move up right into another shorter corner. Climb the wide crack and then move up and right to a large grass ledge and flake and nut belay.
2) 4c, 28m. Move right and climb a rib to more open ground. Sustained climbing slightly left and then right gains a position below an overhang in the corner. Make an awkward pull over the overhang and climb the corner a few metres to a small block and good nut belays.
3) 4c, 36m. Move up the corner for a couple of metres and step left to a niche on the slab. Follow the excellent crack up the slab and go left to a spike on the arete. Continue up the corner above until it becomes choked with grass and from a good nut make a difficult step left across the slab to easier ground. Climb direct up the slab and then grass to a big tree below bulging rock.
4) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic line joining and then following the prominent left facing corner high on Craig Llywelyn.

J A Summer, A Gillis 03/Nov/1968

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, High Quality Adventure routes.

Simon Caldwell 17/Sep/16 AltLd dnf

Got 2/3 of the way up pitch 1 to find that what looked like the crux was wet and slimy. So after some dithering, lowered off (free gear available for the next to climb it). Did enough to want to get back and complete it!

with Carmen
Darron ??/2016 -
Tim Francis 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

pack a head torch if starting late. we didn't!

Stanners 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Robbie got his head down at the bottom whilst me and Giles set off for a final rapid ascent of the day. The third pitch was very memorable - epic.

with Giles
George_Surf 01/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

not all that dirty, but fairly sustained. charlie took p1 up the big corner with a few tricky moves. p2 also quite difficult moving up to and through the overlap. bit of grass where you dont want it! belay pegs gone but ample wires. charlie took p3 which was really nice with good gear and steady climbing. pulled off two big blocks from this pitch. unfortuneatly ends in grass, then another short wall and more grass. descent down the terrace is pretty aweful.

Pinguville 01/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

lead P1 and P3 ... pretty exciting route , hardest lead ive done yet (high end VS id say ) tricky move before belay spot on P1 and crux on P2 was a hard one ! leading P3 was lovely great gear and awesome exposed climbing , we cleaned as we went along , was somewhat green not bad anywhere though. Its a memorable big mountain route and very sustained ...definitely an experience ! not totally worth three stars in my opinion

with George
Paul Hy 11/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P2 - P4, great route.

with Mick B
nodwas 03/Jul/15 AltLd

Awesome clean climb! Largish Loose block on the third pitch but can go round it, precarious decent!

rushy11111918 16/May/15 AltLd
with Kin Choi
Skinny Kin 16/May/15 AltLd O/S

We were going to do Acheron. But Matt climbed up the right hand side of the slab as he didn't fancy the vegetated left hand side of the slab. When I was leading 2nd pitch, I thought the descriptions didn't add up. After climbing up and down the slab on the right hand side a few times, Matt had a look at his Rock Fax topo photo on his phone and realised we were on Doom instead of Acheron, which made loads of sense. What Matt should've done was to stay left on the initial slab for a bit longer and then take a right. Mistake easily done when 2 routes are so close together. The pull over the slight overhanging corner on P2 was quite good. Bit wet on the slab on P3 but the crucial holds were positive and good gear. Dry day but cool for May.

with Matthew Rushsworth
suds_01 16/Jun/14 AltLd
with Stu Bracher
mapperley samurai 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Adventurous feel with a fair bit of gardening en route. The belay peg at the top of P2 mentioned in the climbers club guide is no longer usable - just a stub. I continued on, combining pitch 2&3, and finding a good stance on the final slab (approx 50 mtrs combined).

davidalcock 03/May/14 AltLd

I did pitch 1, Kevin ran 2 and the lower has of 3 together due to missing the rotted peg, I finished to top. Good, varied climbing, requiring a thoughtful approach. Quite run out in places. We both felt p2 was the crux - 5a?

caradoc 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Dry but a lot of veg. Maybe 3 stars if it was clean. Very tough in the wet I should think.

with john b
TCarrick 27/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
te77yb 20/Jul/13 2nd dog

My first outdoor fall on pitch 2! Felt pretty tough for the grade with a lot of loose rock and some jungle bashing!

Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Pay Attention 07/Jul/13 AltLd
with MD
MD 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3. Climbing good but vegetated top out and descent.

with Paul H
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Led twice in 2013 but still no Archeron

Steve Lenartowicz 10/Aug/12 Lead
with Clare
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
gareth scott borthwick 04/May/11 AltLd
with Maria
xusa 04/May/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing! Best vs so far... i led the very last one (im still a beginner)

Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/11 AltLd
seb m-c 03/Sep/10 2nd

Brilliant, just brilliant. Can see why it would be evil in the wet!

with Martin Callaghan
twright180 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/09 Lead
mlmatt 13/Jun/09 AltLd

Althought it says clean onsite, the climb was far from clean lol! was a greta route however!

with Uncle Rob, Nicky
David Rose 06/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

This is simply a fantastic route in a beautiful valley: sustained at a decent VS standard on excellent rock for 120 metres. A gem.

with Nick Isaac
sgl0jd ?/Jun/07 -

Still worth its three stars. Really interesting sustained and well positioned climbing

with Steve Hobbs
Hidden 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
thomasholyoak ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

TH 1st & 3rd

with DS
Matt Bill Platypus 14/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Think this was the one we did!

Mark Stevenson 30/May/05 Lead O/S
with Tess
Hidden ?/Oct/03 AltLd
nrg8125 14/Sep/02 Lead

still wet after 6 days!

Nigel Coe ??/1997 -
alan moore ??/1995 -
babymoac 30/Apr/94 AltLd
with Kathy & Carolyn
andy tetsill ?/Aug/91 Lead
AndrewP ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1978 -
Hidden 30/Jun/73 Lead
tapley 13/Sep/69 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
39 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 24
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set