Rockfax Description
This route was climbed in the belief that there were no other climbs on the buttress, but odd bits of gear found along the way suggested that this wasn't the case. The route follows Migan pillaren for four pitches then moves out left for two further pitches partly used by Heaven and Hell. There is a little aid on pitches 4 and 5 and the line was equipped for an abseil descent. It is believed a small number of bolts may have been placed.
1) N6-, 45m. 2) N5, 45m. 3) N6- 40m. As for Migan pillaren.
4) N5-/A1, 55m. Aid up the steep groove on the left, then pass the arete to a crack. Free climb this to a high ledge - peg belays.
5) N5/A1, 55m. Climb left then right up the slab, then left again (bolt?) with a little aid to enter a groove. Climb this to a stance and peg belays part way up Heaven and Hell pitch 5.
6) N5+, 30m Climb a groove to a roof, and pull through this to ledges a little higher - bolt belay?
Descent - Abseil back down the line - 2 x 60m ropes needed. The state of the fixed gear is unknown. © Rockfax

FA. Augel Castro, Miguel Angel Adrados 25 July 2008 15/Jun/2008.

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