UKC

12m. Midway between Boris and the Three Amigos is a prominent square-cut arête with an attractive orange sidewall (that’s immediately visible on high as you enter the quarry). This gives an excellent strenuous pitch starting up the white arête and climbing the steep breccia speckled crack with some big flowing moves linking some unobvious holds. Make sure you keep to the crack at the top (as you pass the last bolt runner) before reaching down right to clip the double ring abseil station. Six bolt runners.

Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 01/Aug/2015

Ticklists: CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K.


ClimberDateStyle
dale-gribble 25/Nov Lead O/S
with iog123
WillAndrew 25/Nov Lead O/S
with Cara, Matt G
kirstymcn 18/Nov Lead β
evhall 17/Nov Lead dog
with lieraza
Ian Bell 17/Nov Lead RP

Good route and I thought tough for the grade. Second go

Hidden 17/Nov Lead rpt
lieraza 17/Nov Lead RP

Success on 2nd attempt.

with Ev
Hidden 17/Nov Lead RP
Hidden 17/Nov Lead rpt
mike.cc 16/Nov Lead
with Geoff Trewin
PaulJepson 14/Nov Lead RP

Second go. Thought I worked out the moves first go but climbed completely differently the second time, boxed out of my tree. Did no real laybacking, just crimps and finger-locks.

danieleaston 14/Nov Lead RP
jon_gill1 11/Nov Lead rpt
with nick loc
Hidden 11/Nov Lead dog
label 11/Nov Lead dog

Lovely climb. Tried twice, and got it figured out but too tired to get it clean.

SteveLobley 03/Nov Lead dog
with Rich Taylor
Smythson 20/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct Lead dog
ulbau 07/Oct Lead dog
ulbau 07/Oct Lead RP

3rd attempt on lead. Didn't expect this one to go so quickly!

bouldering_matt 07/Oct Lead rpt

Avoided using the super jug.

with ulbau
Michael hughes 29/Sep Lead dog
Mark Jack 28/Sep TR dog

Only came off once this time - got past the crux cleanly but was too pumped. With better strategy / resting I should be able to do it cleanly

with JP
Von T 28/Sep Lead O/S
with Tom Breddal
tobichallis 26/Sep Lead dog

Absolutely blocked, messing about on the 6c+ before hand really finished me. or thats what im blaming it on...

myrddinmuse 26/Sep Lead rpt

Felt a lot harder than last time but it came at the end of a tiring session so that's probably to be expected.

megamonkeyman 25/Sep Lead dog
with Hannah
ACT 09/Sep Lead O/S
GerryWall 06/Sep Lead dog

Good route, I’ll be back for this one!

jk29 01/Sep -

Managed clean on the third attempt with only the penultimate bolt to clip. Need to come back and get this on lead.

with Lucie J
ulbau 31/Aug Lead dog
bouldering_matt 31/Aug Lead rpt
with ulbau
Fred Henry 27/Aug Lead dog
camara_p 27/Aug Lead RP

Went on third go. Used the big jug to rest on. Not sure it's in, but maybe drops it to 6b?

Wayne.Gaudin 25/Aug Lead O/S

Felt mid 6b+ on the OS. Pretty pumpy for a short route

ProtonSL 18/Aug Lead dog
with James, Gemma
FerClimbs 17/Aug Lead RP
with Russell Jackson
Hidden 17/Aug Lead dog
FerClimbs 17/Aug TR rpt

Russ couldn't finish it so I went up again in top rope. This time no rest on the big jug half way up. Felt easier, probably 6b.

with Russell Jackson
Shaky Dog 11/Aug Lead rpt
dprib123 11/Aug Lead RP

2nd go.think grade's only if you stay left of the crack.

Mark Jack 06/Aug TR dog
with JP
badgerjockey 28/Jul Lead RP

Missed loooads of golds first go thinking it was pure laybacking. It is not. Great line though. Bit of a loose death-flake at the top, watch out.

with Dan M
Echuum 21/Jul Lead rpt
AliceMay37 16/Jul Lead RP
with Ben & Sophie
whoisjosh 10/Jul Lead rpt
with Jordan Lanchbury, Jake Webb, Jed Leach
Jack_F 05/Jul Lead
with Sophie
hutchay 01/Jul Lead O/S
PilarMartinez 24/Jun 2nd
Julesthe1st 24/Jun Lead O/S
ProtonSL 24/Jun Lead dog

Working out the moves, should go next time

with Gemma
Hidden 23/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 23/Jun Lead RP
Mark Jack 19/Jun TR dog

A really good but tough route. JP working on leading it cleanly.

with ZF
TommyKips 13/Jun Lead O/S
Wyndcliff Wizard of the West 13/Jun Lead O/S
arthur_de_briton 11/Jun Lead
with ben merrifield
whoisjosh 09/Jun Lead RP
with Max17
Owen C 05/Jun Lead dog
PaddyAdams 04/Jun Lead rpt
whoisjosh 02/Jun Lead dog
with Max17
aharrison24 02/Jun TR dog
Max17 31/May Lead RP
whoisjosh 31/May Lead dog
with Max17
aptius 28/May Lead dnf
Jim blackford 25/May Lead RP

used feet to right of crack and hands in crack and to the left. no more than 6b

megamonkeyman 14/May Lead RP

Great climb! Flows best sticking to the arete and crack.

with Hannah
Hidden 06/May 2nd
Chris Harbour 06/May Lead dog

Really fun climb! Thoroughly enjoyed, will work to get clean

cem 28/Apr Lead RP
with Ian Frith
minty1984 22/Apr Lead dog

2nd try at leading this. I cant believe how a route with so many holds is soooo pumpy!

lizzabelle 21/Apr Lead dog

Still hard! Quite a muggy day with a few showers and felt a bit damp.

mike.cc 20/Apr Lead dog

one hang

with Bill Cox
maki1992 19/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Apr Lead dog
Jc1 06/Apr Lead RP
whoisjosh 06/Apr Lead dnf
with Jc1
TimCul 25/Mar Lead RP
Dr Toph 08/Mar Lead O/S
bpmclimb 08/Mar Lead rpt
with Dr Toph
minty1984 25/Feb TR dog

Pumpy route. 1 fall on top rope. Loads on lead after!... Hopefully get it clean next time

mattharper 25/Feb Lead O/S
ali.scott 25/Feb Lead O/S
Oscar Popels 24/Feb Lead rpt
with Lydia
riff156 24/Feb Lead O/S
jcking231 24/Feb Lead O/S
with riff156, Charlotte Hetherington
JGriffiths 11/Feb Lead dnf

Pulled on a quickdraw past some moves

Oscar Popels 11/Feb Lead O/S

Excellent route! Cool line and fantastic moves.

drgrange 06/Feb Lead rpt
with Gordon
PaulTclimbing 04/Feb Lead
richiebongo 04/Feb Lead O/S
hfotheri 04/Feb Lead RP
fuzzysheep01 28/Jan Lead O/S
with eduardo
RWB1986 14/Jan Lead rpt

Climbed clean (but not tidy)

elliotphillips43 14/Jan Lead O/S
aceagles 14/Jan Lead
with RWB1986
EllieWoods 07/Jan Lead rpt
with Alys, leowoods
Hidden ??/2018 Lead
Hidden 27/Dec/17 Lead O/S
Ollie B 27/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with W.Calvert, A.Rosier, Robyn
Allan Watson 16/Dec/17 Lead
with Jennie Barrett
RWB1986 16/Dec/17 Lead dog
Bristol_Quornstar 15/Dec/17 Lead O/S
mike.cc 04/Dec/17 Lead
with Geoff Trewin
Hidden 01/Dec/17 Lead
RileyJ 29/Nov/17 Lead
precastwig 26/Nov/17 Lead
jflloyd 26/Nov/17 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Nov/17 Lead dog
Jessica Brown 11/Nov/17 TR dog
with A
akamolphat 11/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Callumbuch96 11/Nov/17 Lead dog

Took 1 rest after faffing with my slightly wet feet and on small ledges

with A
jamesk93 11/Nov/17 Lead RP
myrddinmuse 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Surely this is worthy of more than one solitary star? Great route, awesome jugs.

Ailish Ni Grianan 05/Nov/17 Lead dog

First climb after a looooong hiatus, nice route, very friendly bolting, a bit pumpy, must go back and get clean

RWB1986 05/Nov/17 Lead dog

This is a pretty cool route, really annoyed, i went for a hold from the route to the left it didnt work out for me but overall route felt pretty soft for 6b.

Alex Seekings 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S

First 6b+ onsight! You feel like you don't deserve all the jugs you're given

rosatb 05/Nov/17 Lead β
with Ailish, Danni
druss 04/Nov/17 Lead RP

Looked easy from the ground so was in for a big surprise. Felt hard on the on-sight as everything was awkward and required careful movement on the bottom half. Thought high in the grade for an on-site. So much easier on the second attempt. Excellent climb!

poeter210 04/Nov/17 2nd dog
with druss
druss 04/Nov/17 Lead dog
Gibbo 03/Nov/17 Lead
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
mike.cc 01/Nov/17 Lead
with Geoff Trewin
my 22/Oct/17 Lead dog
with Joseph
EllieWoods 22/Oct/17 Lead dog
mike.cc 20/Oct/17 Lead
springfall2008 16/Oct/17 Lead dog

The moves are all there, but I don't have the stamina for this one.

BStar 15/Oct/17 Lead dog

It appears I've gotten worse , needs practise.

philipbwilliams 14/Oct/17 TR
with Steve Wright
fammer 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
WillCrabtree 08/Oct/17 Lead G/U

Nice to get this clean after a struggle last time, nice moves once figured out. Used the 'mega jug' at about halfway for a shakeout, not sure if it's in for the grade.

with Tom Robertson, Ed, fammer
crimpsoplenty 05/Oct/17 Lead
shell145 05/Oct/17 2nd
Ali Mortazavi 23/Sep/17 Lead dog

Several rests..

Hidden 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/17 Lead
Max17 13/Sep/17 Lead dog
with Jon Eckert
Max17 08/Sep/17 Lead dog
peg 26/Aug/17 Lead
crimpsoplenty 19/Aug/17 Lead
lizzabelle 18/Aug/17 Lead dog

nice route, couple of rests - feels like it would go with another shot.

Hidden 16/Aug/17 Lead
Shaky Dog 12/Aug/17 Lead rpt

Finally clean

with mikemc
ngreen 06/Aug/17 Lead β
with AAhmed
AAhmed 05/Aug/17 Lead β
with ngreen
danbirkby 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing with a variety of styles

with Liam, WillCrabtree
WillCrabtree 16/Jul/17 Lead dog
with Liam, danbirkby
Shaky Dog 15/Jul/17 Lead dog

Dogged again. One day ..

with mikemc
megamonkeyman 13/Jul/17 Lead dog
with Eava
bpmclimb 06/Jul/17 Lead rpt
ulbau 24/Jun/17 2nd RP

Found a completely different solution for the tricky middle bit and finally made it clean to the top. Suddenly seems soft for the grade.

bouldering_matt 24/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Climbed this route again. The second time I tried it Ulrike's way which avoided any laybacking whatsoever. Ulrike pretty much climbed it cleanly on second.

with ulbau
Hidden 23/Jun/17 Lead RP
Dan0Me 22/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Moritz L 22/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Dan0Me
maki1992 15/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Chaz, Alice L, Moritz L
Moritz L 15/Jun/17 Lead RP
maki1992 11/Jun/17 Lead rpt
with Becca, Alexandros, Ryan
aceagles 11/Jun/17 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jun/17 Lead rpt
bouldering_matt 03/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Dogged it twice then eventually led it cleanly

with ulbau
ulbau 03/Jun/17 2nd dog

one fall due to a foot slip

Echuum 30/May/17 Lead RP
PaddyAdams 26/May/17 TR RP
with Kimmo
maki1992 25/May/17 Lead dog
with Rich
ulbau 25/May/17 2nd dog
Hidden 21/May/17 Lead
FerClimbs 18/May/17 Lead dog

Nearly clean, rock was cold and fingers got numb.

ulbau 18/May/17 2nd dog

Still need to work out the crux section below the jugs.

with FernandoHidalgo
Ian Stirrups 16/May/17 TR dnf

Completely failed on mid section, pulled on gear to get to lower off & derig. Nearly dark (only excuse)

with Bill Turner
bouldering_matt 07/May/17 Lead RP

Really good route. It felt really strenuous on the first attempt so was surprised when I got it on my second go. Did have a big rest / shake out on the mega jug which might be off route. Will have to try and climb in one go next time.

with ulbau
ulbau 07/May/17 2nd dog

nice route; climbed it twice but had to rest a lot on both attempts; tricky middle section

will484 04/May/17 TR dog
with BStar
BStar 04/May/17 Lead dog

Tried this last year, felt pumpy then, it's still pumpy now... probably get it clean next time now I know the sequence.

with will484
jamesk93 01/May/17 Lead dog

Defeated the second time!

Hidden 30/Apr/17 -
SGD 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Really good. Hard start.

with vholmes
philipbwilliams 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Tanya
jas128 14/Apr/17 Lead β
Hidden 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
kieranbowen 09/Apr/17 Lead dog
Rosea Day 24/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Wendy Day
Robmwatt 13/Mar/17 Lead
Phil Murray 11/Mar/17 Lead RP

Second go. Soft touch?

with Clee
Clee 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
pheotleyr 06/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable, 6b at most.

bpmclimb 02/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/17 Lead RP
julesmckim 26/Feb/17 Lead rpt
with Rob Smart, Alex Nichols
Andy J Collins ?/Feb/17 -
with Brian mullan
Echuum 26/Jan/17 Lead dog
Tom courtiour 22/Jan/17 Lead rpt
Didymus 22/Jan/17 Lead O/S
PaulTclimbing 22/Jan/17 Lead
with Didymus
Josh Lewis 21/Jan/17 Lead rpt
Steve Lewis 21/Jan/17 Lead rpt
AlexRenshaw 14/Jan/17 Lead
with Peggy Xu, julesmckim
julesmckim 14/Jan/17 Lead O/S

Bit stiff as a warm up

mike hope 02/Jan/17 Lead rpt

Good fun climbing

with Moby
PaulTclimbing ??/2017 -
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
alexn ??/2017 -
jamieevans ??/2017 Lead
Quarryboy 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Good quality climbing for a quarried limestone sport route.

Stanners 29/Dec/16 Lead rpt
with Martin Stanfield, CreepingExcellence., Quarryboy
Hidden 11/Dec/16 2nd
Stanners 04/Dec/16 Lead rpt

always a bit pumpy!

with Mark Davies PK, Gordon Jenkin
Gibbo 01/Dec/16 Lead
with Ben Greatorex
jamesk93 06/Nov/16 Lead dog
with Dan Richardson
Clee 14/Oct/16 Lead rpt
seabrook 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

Great line, one of my favourites at Wyndcliffe. Dogged it though. Quite pumpy!

with Jill
Hidden 22/Sep/16 Lead dog
Wise 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
cornishben 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Wise
jon_gill1 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Shaky Dog 27/Aug/16 Lead dog
MoWalker3 07/Aug/16 -
with Derek Carter
Hidden 03/Aug/16 Lead
jayyaj 19/Jul/16 Lead dog
with Alex Roberts
bonelessivar 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
BStar 30/Jun/16 2nd dog

With one rest. Will lead next time

with Bill Turner, Andrew Paul
jcking231 05/Jun/16 Lead

Powerful route with interesting moves

Hidden 29/May/16 Lead β
Hidden 12/May/16 Lead β
Wendy Watthews 12/May/16 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 12/May/16 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with mark
Mark Davies PK 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Clean first go so cant be F6b+. Very good. must lead next time. F6b **

with Guy
drgrange 29/Apr/16 Lead RP

Got it second go

with Anna
shaunstar9 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Last route of the day..maybe 6b..definitely worth a star though!

with Mel
bpmclimb 23/Apr/16 Lead rpt
wurzelinzummerset 23/Apr/16 Lead RP
jalien 21/Apr/16 Lead β

Steep, a bit technical, but with jugs in all the right places. Lovely crack climbing, shame it's not twice as long!

leigh 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Think it was this one!

with Henry
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 13/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Sarah Jane
wave1art 10/Apr/16 Lead RP

Went way too high first time round then fell trying to go right. Much easier staying low and a nice fun route.

with Adam Taylor
Gibbo 10/Apr/16 Lead
with Jimbo Latimer, Tom Gibbison
Josh Lewis 09/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/16 Lead β
Steve Lewis 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Jimbob64 ?/Apr/16 Lead RP
Fatclimber 25/Mar/16 Lead dog
Shaky Dog 13/Mar/16 TR dog
with Mark
Samuel P 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Nice climb

with Kiwi Elyse
Jim Malo 13/Mar/16 TR dog
with Kelwyn, Mark
Tomas P 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Aelita
Tom courtiour 06/Mar/16 Lead β
Stanners 05/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/16 Lead
Gentleman Joe 14/Feb/16 Lead dog

Penultimate climb of the day, but definitely the best! Sadly was a bit to tired to get it in one. Nice moves and not very polished, if perhaps a little dusty

Huntlyfiddler 23/Jan/16 2nd
bpmclimb 23/Jan/16 Lead rpt

Definitely worth a star

bpmclimb 23/Jan/16 TR rpt

To get draws back after Clare didn't finish.

sideshow84 16/Jan/16 Lead O/S
luke harvie 16/Jan/16 Lead dog
with andy
Josh Lewis 20/Dec/15 Lead β

Climbed Amused? then down climbed back down to where the routes split and finished up Woke up Dreaming. I don't know why I thought that would be a good idea...

with Tomas P
Fatclimber 14/Dec/15 Lead dog

Nice route. Will return with a belayer when dry.

with Self Belayed
evhall 11/Dec/15 Lead dog
with Tim Bray
bpmclimb 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Huntlyfiddler 07/Oct/15 2nd
bpmclimb 07/Oct/15 Lead β
Rosea Day 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Jeromeg
bpmclimb 07/Sep/15 Lead dog

Got a bit blinkered, assumed all the decent holds would be in the crack, and missed the big jug out right. Not actually that hard, but quite sustained. Possibly only 6b (unless the small triangular block, which furnishes a good hold, falls out, in which case the route will be quite a bit harder).

kenneM ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Chris
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set