150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A deservedly popular route that is the perfect introduction to Dolomite trad. The rock is mainly solid and, although not always logical, the route is varied and enjoyable. There are cemented belays throughout, but scant fixed gear en-route.

Start at the base of the south arete by a piton and a faded red mark below a groove.
1) III, 25m. Climb the groove then move left to a belay below a short corner.
2) IV-, 30m. Climb the corner then follow the arete with enjoyable exposed climbing to a comfortable stance.
3) IV, 30m. Continue following the arete to a stance below a yellow arete.
4) IV, 30m. Climb to a piton then traverse right to reach a chimney. Climb this rightwards then move back left on easier rock to a belay in a break in the arete.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb rightwards to reach a good ledge, overcome a crack then move left and back right to squeeze into a chimney to a belay behind a flake.
6) IV, 25m. Be careful not to go direct here. Drop down a little and traverse right through a vague tunnel before following a shallow chimney behind a flake. Belay below a corner with a gully to the right (easier variant).
7) IV+, 20m. Climb the slightly polished but well-pegged corner-crack then continue with easier climbing to a belay below the summit cross. It is also possible to climb the easier gully on the right, but you'd end up missing the best pitch.
8) III, 20m. Climb the amenable slab above to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very popular and fun introduction to the Dolomites, but not quite as good as it looks. Anything from 3 to 7 pitches, with numerous cemented belay places. The crux is the final pitch, but it is avoidable.

Cobertaldo/Pezzotti 01/Aug/1939

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

Ed Saint 26/Sep/17 -
Hidden 15/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/17 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/17 AltLd
sgl 13/Sep/17 AltLd

First route as married man with the wife

with Susie
Pete_Frost 08/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

A bit chossy in places but a classic. Top pitch has a few moves on it and is fun. The walk off down the trenches from the Great War is really interesting, and goes on much further than is implied in the Rockfax guidebook.

with Climbing Joe from Anglesey
gsavell 08/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Knight
betathief 06/Sep/17 AltLd
TheSingularity 05/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Great fun climb, did hate the polished rock on the final crack pitch but makes for a good day out!

with Emma
Rooney90 05/Sep/17 AltLd
justaddpowder 23/Aug/17 Lead
Alessandro Tentori 21/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Tommaso Regesta
Abi Chard 17/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Ian
rossunitt 15/Aug/17 AltLd G/U
with Anna
Lauradavies23 31/Jul/17 2nd
mikecollins 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S
wjcdean 25/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Great amenable route. Lead odd pitches. 5 teams ahead of us despite parking up at 8am, fortunately they were all pretty quick and didn't hold us up at all after we got going. Some of the pegs on the IV+ pitch arent particularly obvious, so keep a look out!

with Trevers
Trevers 25/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led the even pitches. First Dolomites trad route! Fairly stress-free, but very polished. Not sure it's a three star classic but still a fun day out.

with Will
Owen Johnson 28/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
George Frisby 27/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Great route. Last pitch much harder than the rest due to polish.

with Owen
Dravies 23/Jun/17 2nd
Charlie680 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Tim Harper 11/Sep/16 AltLd

Lead pitch 4 and 6

Neil Amos 27/Aug/16 AltLd
Phil Anderson 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead 2,4, 6 and 7

with Mike
PalfreyN 23/Aug/16 AltLd
WLNesfield 21/Aug/16 Lead
with 2 students
haydng 21/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with RachelG
Hidden 19/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/16 2nd
MrRiley 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

In 5 pitches, good intro to Dollies, descent through trenches fun

Debbie Lee 15/Aug/16 AltLd

Fun route, easy to move quickly. Walk down through the tunnels was really interesting.

stevethomas 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Heather
gateaublaster 07/Aug/16 Lead

Belay on the cross??

Hotcake ?/Aug/16 -

MP - 2 seconds. Lead crack in teeming rain - topped out in lightning!

Tmgreenfield ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jenny, Alex
Hidden 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Wine and climb 24/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with truan
MoWalker3 21/Jul/16 -
with Dan, CraigC
rgd1977 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Nono 09/Jul/16 AltLd
fuzzysheep01 09/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

100 Classic Climbs description of start is most useful - follow the left rib of the obviously worn gully. There is no pitón and only very faint red paint as mentioned in Rockfax. Climbed in 6 pitches - 2 55m pitches to start. Excellent, varied route with bits of polish but straightforward climbing. Topped out at 11am, glad to have beaten the crowds.

with Nono
Hidden 06/Jul/16 2nd O/S
benny_m 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Su
The Norris ?/Jul/16 AltLd
with Gem
Hidden 30/Jun/16 AltLd
Claire Molloy 28/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Noelle
Hidden 28/Jun/16 AltLd
buxtoncoffeelover 10/Jun/16 AltLd

Missed P1 & most of P2 by scrambling up loose gully to the right. I led top of P2 & P3, Adam P4, Tom P5, me P6, Adam P7 & 8 run together. Easy climbing (the occasional bolt/peg, odd nut or sling; average 3/4 pieces each pitch). Single ring cemented bolt at each stance. Lovely easy entertaining mountain day. Descended thru trenches on very easy Via Ferrata (no gear required) & easy walking

mes32 07/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Confusing guidebook description meant we started up what turned out to be a new route for 3 pitches the day before, then retreated due to rain. Came back the following day having figured out where the route went. Led odd pitches. Fantastic exposure and a real mix of arete climbing and thrutchy traditional styles in the upper pitches. Excellent! Lots of snow in the descent trenches made it a great day out.

with Adam
Hidden 07/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/16 AltLd dnf
Neil Amos ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
maria85 20/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Ronnie
Hidden 20/Sep/15 AltLd
tuukka 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
gringo1804 04/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

With Gary Mason and Shaun Ashton. Shaun led first 3 pitches, I led the rest.

Hidden 01/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
kirky_p 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 27/Aug/15 Lead
with Clare
cmars89 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
sam duckworth 18/Aug/15 AltLd
with Tom raf, Craig
Tcampbell390 18/Aug/15 2nd O/S
brockers 15/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
charvey 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

With the oread club.

Mike W ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 27/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Iain
Hidden 23/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Batt 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

With some booming in the background...!

Hoyes 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd
pauldrew 07/Jul/15 AltLd
with Ali Hutton, Kevin Sales
duncana 04/Jul/15 AltLd

Was supposed to be a quick route on the last day, but turned up with 2 parties on the route, and 3 more waiting, so what should have taken 2 hours climbing was more like 4 (don't try this route at the weekend in summer!). But nice climbing.

with Pippa Archer
SeanSmith ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
HP9 10/Jun/15 Lead

Nice climb. Lots of available belays. last pitch polished but fine in the dry.

with Annika Sivlerberg
kieraneason ??/2015 AltLd
Flavio 07/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
wilf 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

tom P1, Andy 2,3 and 5. Me 2nd part of 2 + 4 and 6. Don't try and climb chimney on R at top of P2 like dopy me. Warm start, snow at top. great position, P6 lives up to reputation. Interesting descent thro trenches.

with Tom, Andy
Simon Pelly 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Marti999 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Celia Watson 06/Sep/14 2nd
Charles Kinniburgh 21/Aug/14 2nd
Rob Davies 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S

We did not set foot on this 2 days earlier due to crowds. OK but a bit rambling in the upper section.

Hidden 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
m675bowsl 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Sian's Birthday route. Straightforward route finding. Good views back over the Falzarego Pass. Descent via the Trench system is an interesting way to finish.

gmatthew 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
David Horwood 24/Jul/14 -
Hidden 07/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
Giles Eperon 16/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with jena meinecke
Alex Eperon 16/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
climberuk 16/Sep/13 AltLd
with Niall
niallk 16/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 5 and 6. The latter was incredibly polished which was joyous in the cold (climbed in cag and wooly hat).

with Steven Harris, Pam
Hidden 16/Sep/13 -
Hidden 13/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/13 AltLd
louise123 07/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
ANC 07/Sep/13 AltLd
with Louise Humphreys
wastedyouth 30/Aug/13 -

Climbed with my 11 year old son who was blown away by its awesomeness (but then it was his first route in the Dolomites).

katherinesydney 22/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Good varied route; interesting the whole way up. The views are amazing. Worth taking a rack, despite the guide book saying there are enough pegs to protect it (there aren't). 3 hours, road to road.

beardy mike 22/Aug/13 Lead
Roger Cruse 21/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Kris
ClareHowes90 15/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tarquin 08/Aug/13 -
with Louise
Louvet 08/Aug/13 -
with Tarquin
JoelO ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Anne
ndm ?/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 31/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
bridget143 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Polished! Led crux final pitch.

with Simen
Mike-W-99 16/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

No pulling off holds this time!

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Lead 1, 3 & 4 this time. No stitches needed this time!

with Mike
Hidden 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
ClimberJimmyB 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd
victorhearnyeates ?/Jul/13 Lead
kateberry118 ?/Jul/13 AltLd
with Zoe Cockburn, Caroline Bowie
EmSto ?/Jul/13 -

Gumc team ascent with Laura Martin, Caitlin Neilson, Will Hastie, Henry OB and Josh Ring. Great day out with a great last pitch (chimney section IV+)

Zoe Cockburn ?/Jul/13 AltLd
jon_gill1 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

did it in 7 pitches. Steve led pitch 1 and what would be pitch 4 but was pitch 5 for us.i led the rest.nice route but big run outs, normal for dollies i guess!

Anna Morris 26/Jun/13 2nd O/S
MarkCunnington 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Did in 7 pitches. Lead 1,3,5,7

with Nicholas Lokuciewski, Anna Morris
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd
mky77 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

I lead 1st & 4th Pitch, J Gill Lead 2nd, 3rd, 5th & 6th pitches.

tim exley 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with alice
kingjam ?/Jun/13 Lead

abbed back down route due too abundance of snow of normal decent

Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead
GeorgeNunn ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
johnpuddephatt 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Good. Descent through the WWI trenches/tunnels/lookout posts adds to the day out.

Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Big queues but still a good route.

Neil Adams 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Elizabeth
RocKalina ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Absolutely full of climbers, lead pitch 1, 4 & 5

stevorobs3 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S


Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Harri777 ?/Aug/11 AltLd
with Naomi
NB Pixel ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Harri!
roberts1234567890 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Ian Thyer
Julli 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Arri Leino
Hidden 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Fiona Reid 08/Jul/11 AltLd

Nearly end of holiday when Mike decided to remodel the climb on pitch 5 and went flying. Climbing tape used to stick him back together and I finished the remaining pitches. Nice climb, busy busy though. Led pitches 2,4,5,6

with Mike
Mike-W-99 08/Jul/11 AltLd

Airtime on pitch 5 after a hold broke off. Finished of the route and horrified onlookers on the summit whilst attending to various injuries. 7 stitches and a new helmet needed!

with Fiona
danimal88 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

love the polish. ascend the cross for a true summit tick

with piotr
whistler 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Worth doing just for the tunnel systems on top!

roberts1234567890 06/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Martin Hill
IanMcC 01/Jul/11 AltLd
with Scott Bamford
rch3l ?/Jul/11 2nd

Ric King and Gryff

ricking777 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

well nice climb learning rope techniques with twins and double belays, crux final pitch, commit to get yourself into the crack.

with Rachel Roberts, Howyle Griffith
2010_graham 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 30/May/11 Solo O/S
roberts1234567890 29/May/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
Hidden ??/2011 -
brianrunner 20/Sep/10 AltLd

Excellent route goes up a very steep arete for the first few pitches. The last pitch is a polished crack which is VS 4c. It can be avoided by a loose looking gulley to the right but the crack is very worthwhile. The WWI relics on the decent are the best in the area IMHO and this mountain had the some of the most intense fighting in WWI. Probably best done midweek as it can get busy!

with martina
3kidsandanorton 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, lovely weather and we had no-one behind us and only a couple of other english climbers ahead of us on a Sunday afternoon!

with Kay
Chris_Mullaney 23/Aug/10 2nd
with Mr. K
adam06 23/Aug/10 AltLd

think u'd need some big ropes to do this in 3 pitches! first dolomites experience

with Chris Mullaney, kyle wood, james oswald
James Oswald 23/Aug/10 2nd
Mr. K 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. Belayed after the squeeze over the big block to prevent epic rope drag failure and lead from there all the way to the summit using the choss-filled chimney. Didn't even see the harder finishing pitch!

with James Oswald, Adam Radcliff, Chris Mullaney
Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
akhutton88 07/Aug/10 -
Hidden 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
dickie01 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Julian King
tallthinmonkey 20/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob Leuhman, Josh Plant
JLS 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Didn't initially spot where to go subterrainian

with Jacqui
Hidden 05/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd
GraMc 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

busy but fun, complete with comedic summit book entry

with tom jenkins, emily roo
John HW 24/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Did not finish student ill (throwing up) rapped back after 2nd pitch.

with 1 x Student
simon kimber 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Tarquin 23/Jun/10 Lead
Hanski 23/Jun/10 2nd
SianR ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Laura & Hannah
Hidden ?/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
mick grim ??/2010 -
mick grim ??/2010 AltLd O/S
James Oswald ??/2010 -

Was belayed by Kyle up the pitch with the step across the gap. scary but safe in retrospect. Belayed from here. Then belayed Kyle and then seconded up the steep,easy very very chossy chimney. Awesome. First route in the Dolomites. Took way way too long!

timofy 28/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Lev 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/09 AltLd β
Hidden 04/Aug/09 AltLd
Barry D 29/Jul/09 AltLd

Climbed in tandem with Julian & Jo

with Dan S
Dunx ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Becky
p.j.deacon ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
andyebbens 30/Jun/09 AltLd
with Steve E
Sankey 30/Jun/09 AltLd
with Andy E
TiffTiff 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Climbed on a sunny saturday, along with most of the population of italy...

with Tom
tbs105 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tiff
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Solo β
jcw ??/2009 -

I thought I was finishing my Dolomites career on a route described as a suitable route for a beginner,and was v depressed. Fortunately 2 further seasons proved me wrong.

with Andre Ike
Marq 10/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

South East Arete in the AC guidebook? UIAA IV+ and 210m AMAMAM

Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ellentaylor 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S

v popular with guides! Fun descent through ww1 tunnels

with Ollie & Adam
31770 28/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
DAL 23/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
cat22 ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Em66 20/Jun/08 2nd
with Mat
jl 27/May/08 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, quite a snowy descent so early in the year

with Penny
pennyb 27/May/08 2nd O/S
with Jon
Tarquin ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
jcj ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 01/Oct/07 Lead O/S
uphillnow 03/Sep/07 AltLd

Cold, light snow falling on early pitches

with Maggie Bass
drop dead fred... ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Protheroe 14/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Radley And Dave Underhill
Hidden 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/07 AltLd
John HW 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Instructing on Vajolet Tiger

with Russ
Andy Clarke 01/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Climbed in heavy rain: escaped up the gully on the final pitch. Led Ps 2,4,6.

with James
clive-greenwood ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Horrox ?/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/06 AltLd
Stuart Macfarlane 18/Jul/06 AltLd
with Anne-Marie
FrankW 09/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Jamie Simpson 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

good route. Polished, especially the avoidable last pitch. My italian sucks. Couldn´t understand what these Italian couple were after. They just kept starring at our climbing gear and gibbering. Eventually I leant them an extra set of nuts and then suddenly it became apparent. They had none thinking it was sport route! How slow can I be!

with Andy porter
AndyP 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Decent route. The crux is the last pitch which is probably VS 4c on a polished wall to the right of an easy gully so is aviodable.The rest of the route is a good bit easier.There is very little insitu gear. An Italian couple were climbing behind us with only extenders (they were carrying no pro at all) and they were stressed. Very interesting WW1 archeology on top.

with Jamie
dsh ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Rob Barton
dsh ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Rob Barton
rob stokes ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with rebecca
Elsier ?/Jul/06 2nd
with Stuart
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd
alpinist63 27/Jul/05 AltLd
cpoad 13/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Clare F
IanMcC 25/Jul/04 AltLd
with Mhairi
jamie ward 15/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Tony Buj
Hidden ?/Jul/03 -
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/02 AltLd
with Paul
Hidden 23/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/02 -
Hidden 01/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
tjekel ??/2002 -
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High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set