Rockfax Description
II, 1150m, 1 day. Almost as historic as its neighbour.
Approach - From the Col des Grands Montets (the top of the cable car) descend the Glacier des Rognons east to reach the Glacier d'Argentière. The best route for this will depend on the state of the glacier but generally it involves heading towards the Moraine des Rognons and passing just south of Pte. 2754m. Once on the glacier, turn southeast and make directly for the Refuge d'Argentière. Follow the vague path from the Refuge d'Argentière leading to the toe of the Glacier du Milieu.
1) Follow the right bank of the glacier to reach the steep summit slopes.
2) Climb these (sustained at 45 degrees) via a narrowing at half-height to reach the northwest ridge.
3) Follow the ridge easily to the summit.
Descent - Either of the Whymper of the Milieu routes can be descended, just check with the hut guardian which one they recommend. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the Milieu Glacier from the Argentiere hut, the last slope is 45 degrees for a few hundred metres

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming, Chamonix Winter Ideas.

Rob Pitt 07/Oct/16 -


with Guy
guy757 07/Oct/16 -
zeitoun 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Not a popular summit and so away from the bustle of August climbers in Chamonix.

with Pascal B.
jeremyvanr 13/Aug/16 -

Aiguille d'Argentierre. Alpine style

with Jim Webster
David Kay 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Matt Box, Alex Shipp
Hoyes 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Thanks to David for leading us all down safely.

ChristyCole 03/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
dkilner 03/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Descended this route after completing the Fleche Rousse route to the summit.

with Alex Shipp, David Kay
Andrew Lodge 18/Jul/16 Solo O/S

Superb day out, we lied about the start time to Tony and got away in good time.

with Phil, Tony Ryland
Tony Ryland 18/Jul/16 Solo
with Andrew Lodge, Philip Burgess
Scott Quinn 11/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/16 AltLd dnf
liamando 29/Jun/16 AltLd

In descent, bergscrund jump

with Alex Stevenson
Ian Stirrups 29/Jun/16 -

Good conditions

with Alex Crow, Jess
ndraper1 24/Jan/16 -

ski descent

with Pete Houghton
danfitz 26/Oct/15 -
with Pete Houghton
Neil D 07/Mar/15 -
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
steve_gibbs 08/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Clay C 03/Sep/14 -


with Hannah, George
67hours 03/Sep/14 -


with Hannah, Clay
jonskippy 08/Aug/14 -


alastairbegley 31/Jul/14 -


Slick 31/Jul/14 -
ndraper1 06/Jul/14 -

In descent.

Hidden 11/Apr/14 -
chapmand 10/Mar/14 Solo O/S
with Rory Brown
Hidden 10/Mar/14 Solo
Hidden 24/Feb/14 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Finn Curry 21/Aug/13 Lead dnf

John suffering from altitude so turned back from about 150m below summit, halfway up the narrow part of the final snow slopes.

with John Wilshaw
Hidden 14/Aug/13 -
prwalker 14/Aug/13 -
with wupert
Bruce S 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead rpt
thomaspomfrett 01/Jul/13 -

In descent

with Will Groat
LDudill ?/Jul/13 -

Moving together. Bucket steps.

Strachan ?/Jul/13 -

In descent

kelly_426 ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden 25/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/13 Solo
Hidden 18/Apr/13 -
Hidden 01/Apr/13 Solo
Stuart Johnston 04/Mar/13 Solo O/S

On skis. Quick ascent from GM. Would have been better skiing if we waited for the sun to warm the slopes.

with Misha Gopaul
Hidden 18/Feb/13 Solo
walts4 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Hidden 23/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
Sophie Nunn 23/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
with Tom T, Floris
ashtond6 20/Jul/12 Lead
Webster 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

moved together in descenbt, far to late in the day after mini epic on wymper route. crevase fiel;d was a nightmare with partially soft snow covered crevasses everywhere!

Hidden 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
efetunc ?/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Rafal was suffering mild altitude sickness and exhaustion. Returned from halfway up Milieu Glacier. Having climbed the 60 degree ice at the lip of the glacier.

with Rafal Malczyk
Hidden 04/Mar/12 -
Binder 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris L
Chris L Hill 10/Aug/11 -

Nice climb, very good snow conditions made for a quick day out.

with Simon Pearce
Jim Brownlow 02/Aug/11 AltLd
with Joe Toller
nigel pearson 01/Aug/11 -
with Mark
efetunc ?/Aug/11 -

Debris from above was a problem on the descent.

Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
Simon Preuss ?/Aug/11 -
with Andy, Phil
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
JdotP 31/Jul/11 -

Acclimatisation bimble

with Krzysztof Gorgolewski, Bike Bore
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
Hidden 31/Jul/11 -
Erlaak 25/Jun/11 -
mark_jc ?/Jun/11 -
Kris ?/May/11 Solo

Ski descent

Ben Briggs 25/Apr/11 Solo
with Ed
mike.moss 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Rollo 23/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Conditions good but little acclimatisation; left Tommy at 3700m and went to the top with Mike. Awesome, but was wasted afterwards.

with Mike
HarryB 10/Apr/11 -

Phils binding snapped off just below the burgschrund so we decided to just ski down from there

QuentinSu ?/Mar/11 Solo O/S

descent with skis

Hidden 31/Jan/11 Solo
Hidden ??/2011 -
Harry Ellis 11/Sep/10 -
with Chris Cox
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
jac00 04/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Tom
tomtom89 04/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Jack
Si ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Soph, Lucy
jogle03 25/Jul/10 AltLd
JonBrown 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Steve, Simon
thetradlad 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ffdalton 06/Jul/10 -
with Dean Dalton
Hidden 05/Jul/10 -
goatee 21/Jun/10 -

a tough slog in soft snow. views on top well worth the effort

Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
keith leonard ??/2010 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
cmsg 22/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Glacier dry. Crevasse minefield. Reached bergschrund, and decided snow in no fit state to be climbed. Retreated. Heard a huge avalanche that froze us in terror, but may have happened on Chardonnet glacier, as nothing came down. Heard today that there's now a river running down the thing.

with Lisa
vvanhinsbergh 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S


with Steve Williams
Matthallinan ?/Jul/08 -
Jim Brooke ?/Aug/07 -


with Malcolm, Jamie Boyd
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/07 AltLd
mike.moss ?/Apr/07 Solo dnf

Both suffering from altitude by the bergschrund - turned back.

with Tom Boszko
Bristoldave ??/2007 -
with douglas
Si dH 10/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Paddy Snow
mmalbon ?/Jul/06 -

This was supposed to be the easy training climb before doing Mont Blanc a few days later. Got to within ~150 meters of sumit then ran out of time. Slipped on the way down the steep bit above the Bergschrund. We eventually stopped a few meters above the bergschrund with Simon's face dripping with blood - luckily nothing too serious though! We then got caught in 2 thunderstorms and a rock fall on the way back down to Argentiere village from the hut.

with Simon and James
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Marmot Catcher 30/Jun/06 AltLd
stevomcd 18/Apr/06 Solo

Climbed up the glacier du milieu, then descended by snowboard down the couloir Barbey on the swiss side.

Hidden ?/Apr/06 Solo
Peter Metcalfe 20/Sep/05 AltLd
andyinglis 15/Jun/05 -
with Tom Dunstan, Neil Adams, ross barnes
Neil Adams 15/Jun/05 -
featuresforfeet ?/Jun/05 -

A round trip from the UK in a weekend. Purgatory.

with The Tweddler
Piers Harley ?/Jun/05 Solo
clams ??/2005 -
with AD
Gibbo ?/Jul/04 AltLd
with Tom Gibbison
Hidden 19/Jun/04 Solo
Neil Adams ?/Jun/04 -
with Andy I, Tom D & Ross B
Ross Barnes ?/Jun/04 -
with Neil A, Andy I, Tom D
John Andrew Simpson ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Taff, Mo Holmes
stuartm555 12/Jul/02 AltLd
with Douglas Cowan
Alpandy ?/Jul/02 AltLd
with Matt Owen
Paul-Michael 14/Aug/01 Lead O/S

From Refuge du Argentiere, 5 1/2 hr PD-

with Mark McCaffrey, Paul Nurse
Hidden 12/Jul/01 -
Bob M ?/Jul/01 -
with Richard Mott, Jill Stevens
Hidden ?/Jun/01 2nd dnf
ashpreston ??/2001 AltLd dnf
rlrs ?/Sep/00 AltLd

In ascent

Antony Mariani ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
NickBrown ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Tim
gwedgwood ?/Jul/98 2nd
with A N Other, Murray Ball
stokesrees ??/1997 Lead
with gilles lalanne
Jim Walton 17/Jul/96 AltLd

Deeply dull

with Alison Bethal
John Andrew Simpson ?/Mar/94 Solo

Spring ski mountaineering trip in touring skis and koflach mountaineering boots with small group with a bivi under rock at bottom of climb. Ski upto bergschrund, and walk to top in knee deep snow. Pretty much suvival ski down lots of racing snow plow, kick turns and headplants

with Lewy Lewis, Neil Greenwood, Andy Valance, Rick, Adam Dobby, Ian Roberts
Hidden ?/Mar/94 -
ste_d 20/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 01/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
auld al ?/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/91 Lead
agagsgrot ?/Jul/90 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Budge ??/1990 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
gallonj ?/Aug/89 -
Chris Ellis 26/Jul/89 -
with Dan Morgan, Dave Turner, Rob Gale
pauldrew ?/Jul/89 AltLd

First route of the season as a warm-up, bit high though and got a little altitude sick towards summit.

with Lisa Cox, Jim Hart
mark-abz ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Andy W
Hidden ?/Jul/84 -
Hidden ?/Aug/81 -
leland stamper ??/1979 AltLd
with Hugh Grandfield
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
Bolt Phobia ?/Aug/75 AltLd dnf

Turned back quite high up - poor visibility.

Steve Woollard 12/Aug/74 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
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