Rockfax Description
(Sons of the Sun) A fine mixture of slab climbing and finger-cracks makes this a 'must do' route; one of Lofoten's best at the grade. Carry a full rack, including small and medium sized cams. Double ropes are needed to protect the friction traverse on pitch 2, and for the descent.
1) N5+, 35m. From the ledge, move left into the base of a grassy groove. Climb straight up this to a flake on the right, chimney up behind this block, then from its tip make a tricky stride across the gap. Climb up a short slab then traverse right to a good belay ledge in a corner.
2) N6, 50m. Climb up the short cracks above into an easier wide crack. From high wires (make them good ones) step back down 5m and make a precarious traverse left across the slab. Then step up into the prominent finger-crack which is very thin at the start and at the top. Climb the crack and step right to a fine stance with a double-bolt anchor.
3) N5, 30m. Climb the finger-crack up the left-hand side of the upper slab - not much gear. When it ends, continue past a bolt to an excellent belay ledge on the left with a single-bolt anchor.
4) N5, 30m. Move up the shoulder (bolt), then pad up the slab on the right past a second bolt before easier moves lead to the top and another nice belay ledge with another double-bolt belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fine mixture of slab climbing and finger cracks makes this a route not to miss - one of Lofotens best climbs at the grade. It follows the thin vertical cracks up the left side of Sjosvaet. Carry a modern rack, including small and medium sized cams. Double ropes are needed to protect the friction traverse of pitch 2, and for the descent.
1) 5+, 35m. This pitch is better than it looks. From the starting ledge, move left into the base of a grassy groove system. Climb straight up this to a flake on the right, chimney behind this block, then from its top make a tricky stride across the gap. Climb up a short slab then traverse right to a good belay ledge in a corner.
2) 6, 50m. Climb up the short cracks above into an easier wide crack. From high wires (make them good ones) step back down 5m and make a precarious traverse left across the slab. Then step up into the prominent finger crack which is very thin at the start and at the top. Climb the crack and step right to a fine stance with a double bolt anchor.
3) 5, 30m. Climb the finger crack up the left hand side of the upper slab. When it ends , continue past a bolt to an excellent belay ledge on the left with a single bolt anchor - and a steady supply of fresh drinking water on the left.
4) 5, 20m. Move up the shoulder (bolt) then pad up the slab on the right past a second bolt before easier moves lead to the top and another nice belay ledge with another double bolt belay.

Ed Webster, Odd-Roar Wiik 10/Aug/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50

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