UKC Logbook - 'Penmaen Pillar'

Access Banned

The landowners have have recently become aware of climbing at this site (due to publicity on various websites) and have informed the BMC that although this section of the quarry has not been active for many years, this section is still within the boundaries of a working quarry and public access (other than on the public footpaths that cross the site) is not allowed due to liability and health & safety concerns. It's rare that quarry operatives or security will be aware of climbers here but if climbers are seen they will be politely asked to leave.

Contains a number of newly equipped sports routes as well as some historical routes dating back to the 1950s

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Drive up Mount Road to a junction by the top most houses in Llanfairfechan. Follow the higher road from the junction until a footpath on the L leads up to a quarry road and then a waymarked traversing path (Wales Coast Path). Follow the path L along the top of a wall until it starts to descend through a gate. Then follow a path rising gently L ward up the hill to the Top Level. The Pinnacle and an old winding house are prominent on the outer edge of the level (on your L on arrival). The Middle and Bottom Levels are reached by descending an incline from the winding house.

Last update: 13/02/2023

Get the BMC RAD app

33m. Start as for Llanfair Groove. Gain the ramp on that route but immediately break out awkwardly left onto the slabby pillar. Climb slabs until a leaning wall forces a neat traverse left. Climb the next slabby wall starting slightly right, then bearing left to go through the overlap near the central notch and gain a ledge (possible belay/intermediate lower-off for 60m ropes). Start the next wall on the right and make a tricky move to jugs that lead easily through the bulge above. Another slight juggy bulge leads to the lower-off.

FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 30/Aug/2015.