65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Another great ice-route. Photo on page 178..
1) 3, 20m. Climb the large ice-wall to a ledge belay beneath steeper ice..
2) 4, 45m. Pull over the steep ice above and continue up the easier angled flow. Exit right or left depending on conditions. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Located half way between the Devils Kitchen and South Gully.

Ticklists: North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist.

Climbingspike ??/2016 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Brannock 07/Apr/13 AltLd

Second pitch.

MPSBunny 07/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch. Was super steep, probably vertical, and though only about 6 - 8m it was super hard work with some less than ideal technique meaning one or two longer than desired lock offs were used. Definitely a full on IV 4 as it was hacked out at all. Belayed in the Ice Cave as it was too cool not to despite what John thought. John took the second pitch trending left out of the Cave taking the gully up to the left and taking a short step as steep as the starting section. Also managed to get his peg from his previous ascent with Haydn in January.

stuaart 06/Apr/13 2nd

Tom led as one pitch

thehugehead 06/Apr/13 AltLd

Did Grade III top section. Howard Led the hard part.

with Howard & Maire
thomasaneurinsmith 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Stuart Reeves
timofy 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
joe.91 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Great little route, felt much harder than the kitchen. Tech 5 in its current nick?

Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd
NathanP 04/Apr/13 AltLd

Found the first pitch up to the cave technically very hard getting round chandeliered ice. More than 4 anyway. Top pitch was easy 3, maybe a steep 2 up the groove on the left.

Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/13 Lead
tim newton 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
jon clayton 01/Apr/13 Lead
with Dave Hanham
kdalzell 01/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/13 2nd
steve.warrington 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Simpson, Nik Goile
Bry 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
adie84 31/Mar/13 -
with Ben Wolstenholme
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
climber34neil 31/Mar/13 -

First pitch to big ledge then bailed due to large amount of running water

Ben Wolstenholme 31/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 30/Mar/13 AltLd
Lxaddison 30/Mar/13 2nd

Excellent climb. Ice was rock solid on the steep section though, made for a couple of floundering moves.

with Paul Addison
thomb 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

In good nick. We both found it quite demanding at the grade.

with Jess
Andy_B39 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Ben Rigby
Skinny Kin 29/Mar/13 AltLd dog

Blunt picks really don't help. Otherwise, it should've been a clean ascent. Quite hard ice. Dry but chopped up on the steepest section. Bit steep for a grade 4.

with Pete Frost
Pete_Frost 29/Mar/13 AltLd

Brilliant lead of the crux pitch by Kin Choi using blunt tools!

wolf.leeb 26/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Sickening hot aches.. grr..

with jo
Hidden 23/Mar/13 Lead O/S
StuartCJones ?/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Puma 25/Jan/13 2nd

Excellent fun, the ice was a little wet so don't expect it to be there too much longer. Lead climber, Rob, did as one long pitch.

lithos 25/Jan/13 Lead

Left hand variant in one 50m pitch belaying in exit gully.

with Puma
Hidden 25/Jan/13 2nd
Brannock 25/Jan/13 Lead O/S

With Haydn, good route, ice bit soft but ok, one big pitch.

AB1965 24/Jan/13 AltLd
with Bob Johnson
Double Knee Bar 24/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Belayed below the crux, Used too many ice screws in the first section. Fantastic climb.

Hidden 23/Jan/13 2nd
tim000 23/Jan/13 2nd

first ice climb . great day out.

Danjones 22/Jan/13 2nd O/S

Good route with generally good ice. Steep section for a few metres exiting groove on first half of route. Good ice, gen ice screw protection. Ice thinner at top section of route. Big boulder at top for belay. Exciting route even seconding!

with Gerallt
Gerallt Owain 22/Jan/13 Lead O/S
TCarrick 22/Jan/13 -
TeeBee 22/Jan/13 AltLd rpt
with Tom
Webster 22/Jan/13 Lead O/S

awesome! left hand finish

TomMorgan 21/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben Rigby
Hidden 21/Jan/13 -
ianstevens 21/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Pretty wet in places, but generally in good nick. Left hand finish as the curtain to the right still looks a little hollow. Lead both pitches.

benrigby 21/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 20/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

I took the first pitch, (which went well after much faffing with crampons) and belayed under a waterfall (don't do this - it's cold and wet). Steve led the left-hand variation to the top

SJS 20/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Quite wet, but in pretty good condition - Nick took the first pitch and I took the second. The right hand route for the second pitch was not so well formed, and very wet, so I went for the left hand variation.

with Nick
CurlyStevo ?/Jan/13 Lead

Very nice climb in fairly good nick, but hard in the grade compared with Scottish IV 4 on ice. Fortunately (perhaps ?) it was quite hooked out although not completely on the crux, which made it easier. We took the left hand variation at the top as the ice curtain wasn't very well formed yet.

with Rob
ad111 ??/2013 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/11 -
Pay Attention ?/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Adam Lincoln 27/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with John Cooke
Chubbard 27/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with C Godfrey
tatz45 27/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Led in one pitch.

Lenny 27/Dec/10 Lead rpt
with John
Hidden 27/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Dec/10 2nd
sam820 26/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Sutton
Hidden 25/Dec/10 2nd
Ashley Hold 25/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Matthew Wheadon
Hidden 25/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
AMarchant 24/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Certainly steeper than it looked in the first pitch. Great route though.

Rampikino 23/Dec/10 Lead

Decptively steep.

with Cat
Hidden 23/Dec/10 AltLd
mickJ 22/Dec/10 Lead

Stuart led pitch 1, I led top pitch

with Stuart Wildman
Stuart Wildman 22/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
jparry75 19/Dec/10 AltLd
with m.evans
ollyroberts 09/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Ben
joese7en 09/Dec/10 Lead O/S
tall paul 09/Dec/10 2nd
with aiden
Hidden 09/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 09/Dec/10 Lead
Hidden 08/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Glyn 08/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
lukewilliams 08/Dec/10 Lead
Andrew Barker 08/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

A bit brittle in places but made easier through a mulitude of previous ascents.

Hidden 07/Dec/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Dec/10 Lead
farmus21 07/Dec/10 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch: A great, if short route. Still packs a punch.

with Sam Radcliffe
Owain Llewelyn 07/Dec/10 AltLd
with Gareth E
samrad 07/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with james G
Hidden 07/Dec/10 AltLd
mynyddresident 07/Dec/10 AltLd rpt

With G and Rob, torch lit ascent. Seperate trip to the kitchen from climbing earlier in the day.

with geraint
Mattilda 06/Dec/10 AltLd
with Lauren
groovy_nut 06/Dec/10 AltLd rpt

P1 this time.

with Matt K
Andrew Sloan 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Grove
R_W_M 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Lead the first pitch, steep but good ice. The second pitch was not fully formed so topped out via the little gully to the left (Todd's lead on thin ice and fresh powder...)

with Todd
chadrads 05/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with andy chapman
ruaidh 05/Dec/10 AltLd

Ace! III with sections of IV I thought...

with Jonah
inuklm 04/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Jonathon Hazel
Clay C 04/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Went up the v-groove for P2 which was quite thin and unconsolidated in places

with James C
andysroom 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

tim_mcd 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with cmsg
Hidden 04/Dec/10 2nd
Ian Andrews 04/Dec/10 Lead O/S

1st route of this winter :- )

with Wayne Gordon, Pete Williams
TDembrey 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob
cmsg 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Tim did first pitch. Steep and shattering. Second pitch not in great shape, so I shot up the gulley.

stuart34 04/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Not fully formed and very hacked out

Hidden 03/Dec/10 Lead dnf
rockjedi12345 01/Dec/10 2nd O/S
AB1965 01/Dec/10 Lead

Steep but good ice for the first pitch, brittle and thin in the grove on the second pitch

with Bob Johnson
bob johnson 01/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Al Borrett
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd
kenneM ?/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Carl Davies
Hidden ?/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
Tommy Harris ?/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with phillip belcher
Tim Sparrow ?/Dec/10 Solo
Hidden ?/Nov/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
Bennykr 14/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with JB
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
Jillybean 14/Jan/10 AltLd

amazing, finished as it went dark Ben's first lce lead on 1st pitch. I led 2nd pitch, amazing fun :)

with Ben
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
sleavesley 13/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch and went up V groove this time. First pitch was just slush, melting when we were climbing too.

with Karl
frost 13/Jan/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
LardClimber 10/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams
juza 10/Jan/10 Lead
with Andy D
bob johnson 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Al Borrett, Rich Ball
cmtoombs 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led first steep pitch to icicle cave

Hidden 10/Jan/10 AltLd
spidey 10/Jan/10 AltLd

lead first pitch

Hidden 10/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Karlos 10/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

First team on it that day. Was surprised to see it dripping quite a lot. Steep central section getting a lot of drips - one reason not to hang around. Belayed on the open face after traversing left from the cave. Seconded pitch 2.

with Tom
Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Mottram
Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 09/Jan/10 AltLd

I led the esier left variant of the second pitch. Fantastic.

with Lucas
TeeBee 09/Jan/10 AltLd
with Jake
Bex_M 09/Jan/10 2nd
with Duncan Dunbar
rob k 08/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with H Griffin
Mark Wilson23 08/Jan/10 2nd
with Dave Clarke, Paul blanchard
wilkie14c 08/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Wilson, Dave Clarke
groovy_nut 08/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
Hidden 07/Jan/10 2nd
Cardi 07/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Steve belayed after the (unexpected) crux

with Steve B, Andy F
jcurley 07/Jan/10 2nd O/S
Dom Whillans 06/Jan/10 -

good nick, but more top end III than IV (or so i'm told)

with a.crook
Liam FLeming 06/Jan/10 -
with john bunney
A Crook 06/Jan/10 Lead O/S

wanted to do for some time, great fun and fairly easy tbh. doen in on huge run out. probably best done this way for full enjoyment

Hidden 05/Jan/10 Solo O/S
willson 05/Jan/10 2nd
with Wills
Hidden 05/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Merlin 05/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Great route, better conditions.

with Grayham Stephenson
Rhys Jones 05/Jan/10 -
with bonita
Bram 05/Jan/10 Lead

Lead through did route in one pitch.

Hidden 04/Jan/10 2nd
thecurlyone 03/Jan/10 2nd O/S

tricky traverse at the top due to lack of ice. Nice Lead Dave!

with Dave Smith
alexrafferty1986 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S


with Zoomer
Hidden 02/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Zoomer 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Excellent ice, led 2nd pitch.

Lenny 02/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with James W.
malc 01/Jan/10 2nd
with Paul S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
r_o_b_h2 ?/Jan/10 Lead
with steve tree
Hidden ?/Jan/10 -
Hidden ?/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
jimbonfire ?/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Tom M Williams ?/Jan/10 AltLd
BenTiffin ?/Jan/10 Lead
with Andy Bissell
tim20 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
stemill 23/Dec/09 2nd
with Mark, Graham
sleavesley 23/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Was first on this with Nick, Led the whole thing. Did the harder right hand side, not the V groove :-)

with Nick Scott
Hidden 23/Dec/09 2nd
timjones 23/Dec/09 Lead
with Andy McQue
Calder 23/Dec/09 2nd
with Mark, Ste
Diggler 23/Dec/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
The Bad Cough 22/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 ?/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Diggler 11/Feb/09 2nd
with Paul V
paul.valentine 11/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Mark Dempsey
hamish2016 10/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with John Swain
JDSwain 10/Feb/09 2nd O/S

Let Hamish have the honours, joys of being local can do this one before lectures

with Hamish Dunn
Hidden 08/Feb/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
devilman 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
nickcanute 07/Feb/09 AltLd
with tim parkinson
AJM 07/Feb/09 Lead

Great fun. Led all of the route - belayed once on the ramp before the short top section.

with Alec Corio
feilx 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Floris & Mike
Martyn 06/Feb/09 AltLd

Thought we were on 'The Ramp' 11/111, imagine our surprise when we realised we were on 'The Screen' IV.

with Damien Jones
Hidden ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jan/09 AltLd rpt
geoff b 10/Jan/09 AltLd

Entertaining route on good ice, plastic.

with Rod W
vincentvega 10/Jan/09 Lead
with danny robb
centurion05 10/Jan/09 Lead O/S

left pillar

with ben wood
Hidden 07/Jan/09 2nd
barni 07/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

2nd Pitch

with Northern
Hidden 07/Jan/09 2nd O/S
stevebarratt 05/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Rob Bryniarski
Misha 03/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

Great route in good conditions. Led P1 including steep column, 'Fat' Phil led P2.

Jillybean ?/Jan/09 2nd
with Matt
mikelaing ?/Jan/09 2nd
with Ian Whitehead
rob1 ?/Jan/09 AltLd
with Tom Martin
philhilo ?/Jan/09 AltLd rpt

Misha took 1st pitch up steep fluted columns. Good hooks but awkward footwork.

with misha
mike.moss ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks ??/2007 -
Rich A-Wilkes 01/Mar/06 Solo O/S
nicholas Barrowclough 01/Mar/06 Solo O/S

Lovely two pitches of good steep ice

al99 ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S

A lucky find, the climb was in perfect condition!

with Joe Spoor
philhilo 20/Feb/06 2nd O/S

Ken took main pitch, tricky traverse in from right Trevor second.

with ken tranter, Trevor Box
geoff b 26/Feb/05 AltLd

Romped up this after falling off The Appendix earlier in the day. Could barely move my ankle the next day!

with Matt Tuck
Paul-Michael 26/Feb/05 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd easier pitch 1st was steep & fluted IV 4/4.

Hidden 02/Mar/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S

Fine route due to the abnormally fine conditons encountered!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S

Fine route due to the abnormally fine conditons encountered!

Ally Smith ?/Feb/03 Lead
Hidden 21/Jan/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jan/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jan/97 Lead
michael burrows 29/Dec/96 AltLd O/S
with mark ryan
phardman 29/Dec/96 Solo
mark-abz ?/Feb/91 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden ??/1986 Solo
Nick Biven ?/Jan/85 2nd
with Karl Strange
sacdenouilles ?/Mar/84 Lead
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 47
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
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