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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 92
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces N

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Light and shade in Cwm Idwal © ankyo

Crag features

The Devil's Kitchen (or Clogwyn y Geifr) is set in spectacular scenery and includes the Twll Du waterfall (Devil's Kitchen) - hence the morbid route names.

In summer it offers multi-pitch routes to 100m long with some suspect rock. 

In winter it is one of the premier ice climbing venues of south border. The frozen waterfall between Devils Aappendix, Devils Staircase and Garden Gully dominates the cwm.

Approach notes

Clogwyn y Geifr is sprawled across the head of Cwm Idwal.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


North Wales Winter

North Wales Winter covers the best and most reliable venues for winter climbing in North Wales including the classic gullies of the Trinity Face and the rarely-formed but absolutely essential ice climbs of Cascade and Central Icefall Direct in the Llanberis Pass. Also covered are the major ice lines of Cwm Idwal and the modern mixed climbs of Clogwyn Du and the huge cliff of The Black Ladders which rivals anything in Scotland and is home to long and committing adventures that give a full and tiring day out. This App version has all you need to find and assess the best routes whenever they are in 'nick'.
More info

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
for the winter routes see Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - Winter
michael burrows - 17/Jun/13
Where are the Winter Routes?
Christheclimber - 03/Apr/11
My son and I climbed inside the Devils Kitchen on Sunday 27/8/06. We intended to climb Twll Du (V Diff) but instead chose Night Moves (E3). Once we found a variety of kit left we assumed this was going to be an exciting climb, we would not be disappointed. We managed to climb in four pitches with one pitch a hanging belay. It was difficult to hear and respond to calls as the volume of water cascading down made it rather difficult. The atmoshere within this cauldron of excitment was further enhanced due to the dampness, constant level of concentration and the colourful shouts from both climbers. A climb which will be remembered for some time to come. Excellent.
John Garmon Roberts - 28/Aug/06
No mention at all of the winter routes there? Icefall country if the conditions are right............
AJM - 01/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Winter Routes on the Devil's Kitchen
2 The Nameless Stream III * 41
3 Idwal Stream II/III 4 * 494
  South Buttress
5 South Gully IV 4 *** 223
6 Central Route III 4 ** 125
7 Grecian 2000 IV 5 * 11
8 Chicane Gully III 4 ** 100
9 Devil's Pipes V 6 *** 7
10 The Ramp III 3 *** 309
11 The Screen IV 4 *** 263
12 The Curtain IV 4 ** 46
  Main Cliff Left
14 Devil's Pasture III 3 *** 82
15 Devil's Pasture Righthand IV 4 ** 6
16 Coldhouse Crack
II/III * 9
17 The Devil's Child VI *  
18 The Devil's Appendage VI 6 2
19 The Devils Kitchen (Winter) IV 4 *** 115
  Main Cliff Right
21 The Goat's Path
I 15
22 The Devil's Kitchen and the Sheep Walk
1 * 46
23 Devil's Staircase V 6 *** 5
24 The Devil's Appendix VI 6 *** 37
25 Hanging Garden Gully
IV * 2
  The Band
27 The Devil's Fithbag V 5 **  
28 Stingray V 5 * 25
29 The Sting V 5 ** 16
30 The Devils Drainpipe IV 5
31 The Devil's Cellar IV 5 *** 35
32 The Devil's Cellar - Right Hand Start V 5 5
33 Devil's Dive V 6 * 1
  North Cliff
Climb name Grade
  Castell y Geifr
36 The Trench
I 4
37 Castle Gully
II/III 3 13
38 Faust or Famine VIII 8 *** 5
  Moved climbs
40 Devil's Dive V 6 * 3
  Summer Routes on Clogwyn Y Geifr
  South Cliff
43 South Nose VD 1
44 South Gully
S 1
45 Botany Bay Climb VD  
46 Central Groove D  
47 Piece by Piece Climb VD  
48 Pluto VS 4c  
49 The Trident HVS 5a  
50 Devil's Appendage HVS 5a 1
51 Devil's Pulpit HVS 5a 1
52 Devil's Pipes HS 4b  
53 Little Corner S  
54 Redemption HVS 5a  
  Central Cliff
56 Goats Groove
57 Goats Walk
M 1
58 Devil's Pasture M 1
59 Hothouse Crack VD  
60 Dump Crack S  
61 Devil's Dump S  
62 Pilgrim's Progress HS 4a 1
63 Night Moves
E3 5c 1
64 Devil's Kitchen Route VD * 64
65 Direct Finish VS 4c  
66 Waterfall Climb
VS 4c 1
67 Right Wall Route
VS 4c  
68 Hell's Teeth
E3 5c *  
69 Gehnna HVS 5a *  
Climb name Grade
70 Hades E1 5b 1
71 Advocate's Wall VS 4b 5
72 Tartarus E1 5b  
73 The Devil Dries Out E5 6a *  
74 Hell's Gate E3 5c  
75 Devil's Buttress S  
76 The Sorcerer HVS 5a  
77 Devil's Staircase S ** 21
78 Devil's Bastion E2 5c * 1
79 Satan HVS 5b  
80 Devil's Appendix VS 4c * 1
81 Appendicitis E3 5c *  
82 Hanging Garden Groove E1 5c 1
83 Hanging Garden Gully VD 3
84 The Main Crack S 1
85 Staircase Traverse
86 Cellar Buttress D  
87 Devil's Delight E1 5b * 5
88 Devil's Cellar VD 2
89 Cool Chute Exit S  
  North Cliff
91 Easy Slab
92 Easy Gully
M 1
93 God's Little Acre HVS 5a 4
94 Junior Slab HVS 5b 2
95 Devil's Nordwand E1 5b ** 47
96 Hell-Bent E2 5b 5
97 Devil's Fissure E1 5b * 6
98 Devil's Doghouse HVS 5c 2
99 Faustus E2 5c 2
100 Devil's Dive VS 4b  
101 Inferno VS 4c  
102 North Slabs VS 4c 1
103 Tranquillity HVS 4c 1
104 Devilish E5 6b * 1

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