Rockfax Description
A classic crackfest that follows the intimidating wide vertical crack on the left side of the face and the exposed corner to the left of the huge capping roof. Start on ledges below the wide corner-crack.
1) 5a, 10m. 'Genges Crack'. Move up to below the wide corner-crack and bridge and layback up it, past a useful chockstone, to a large belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the knobbly curving crack in the less steep face above to below the corner-crack to the left of the huge roof. Pull steeply up into the corner and follow it all the way to the top. An exposed pitch. © Rockfax
FA. T.Genge 1947 (pitch 1), FA. R.Goodier, J.Deacon (pitch 2) 09/Sep/1955.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , HVS Cornwall , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Kernow , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tall Oak | 16 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Very cool route. Luckily a kind gentlemen has put back the stone wedge for attaching gear to. We had a large cam so worked without it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very cool route. Luckily a kind gentlemen has put back the stone wedge for attaching gear to. We had a large cam so worked without it. |
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| Kiddie68 | 12 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Brilliant route, lead as one big pitch. Crucial big cam (min 4, ideally 5), if chockstone missing, as it was for me, until Steve, seconding me with the chockstone dangling between his legs like some kinda wrecking ball, replaced it! What a kind and considerate chap he is! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route, lead as one big pitch. Crucial big cam (min 4, ideally 5), if chockstone missing, as it was for me, until Steve, seconding me with the chockstone dangling between his legs like some kinda wrecking ball, replaced it! What a kind and considerate chap he is! |
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| Steve Claw | 11 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Replaced the chockstone today, would have been super sketchy without it unless you had a really big cam. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Replaced the chockstone today, would have been super sketchy without it unless you had a really big cam. |
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| alex505c | 9 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: As of 31 July 2021, the "useful chockstone" appears to be gone. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: As of 31 July 2021, the "useful chockstone" appears to be gone. |
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| alvaroBV | 7 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Superb 2nd pitch, sustained initial wide crack | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Superb 2nd pitch, sustained initial wide crack |
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Millennium Falcon
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Forest Moon Buttress)