Rockfax Description
A classic crack-fest that follows the intimidating wide vertical crack on the left side of the face and the exposed corner to the left of the huge capping roof. Start on ledges below the wide corner-crack.
1) 5a, 10m. Move up to below the crack and bridge and layback up it, past a useful chockstone, to a large belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb the knobbly curving crack in the less steep face above to below the corner-crack to the left of the huge roof. Pull steeply up into the corner and follow it all the way to the top. An exposed pitch. © Rockfax

R Goodier, J Deacon (AL), 1st pitch climbed by T Genge in 1947 09/Sep/1955

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 24/Jun Lead O/S
Cbulman 17/Jun 2nd
mila.and 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Darya
Gerben Neven 17/Jun Lead O/S

Both cracks felt really gnarly and desperate! in hindsight I shouldn't have done this without bigger cams for the first crack..

rachelpearce01 13/Jun AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Cruz for me was trying to rescue the sling around the chock stone! Pretty tricky.

Hidden 08/Jun AltLd
Kevin Cass 27/May AltLd O/S
with S Westwood
Hidden 18/May 2nd
Mark Kemball 14/May 2nd
with Leiv Aspelund
Katsmiff 16/Apr 2nd O/S

Sharp rock. Laybacking on rounded edges. Need a large cam to protect the bottom section.

robgixer 13/Apr Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 03/Apr AltLd rpt

P2

manbat 03/Apr AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Dean Russell 30/Mar Lead O/S
lundyman ??/2017 -
ClimbingAlex 03/Dec/16 Lead dnf

Backed off this due to the crack being wet/not having big enough gear. Wasn't willing to commit to the thrutchy moves up without some pro. Was looking at a nasty fall onto a big ledge. Need at least camalot size 4 (5 even better) to protect the crack.. One to come back to in the future.

with Matt
Dilwat 07/Oct/16 Lead dog
with Dave P
Marl 24/Aug/16 Lead

1st pitch felt very difficult due to greasy / damp holds. 2nd pitch much drier!

with Jake, Mac
Hidden 23/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/16 2nd
M_Robinson 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ella Watkinson
ellawatkinson 04/Aug/16 2nd
with Michael Robinson
Hidden 02/Aug/16 AltLd
Jake Maxwell ?/Aug/16 -
Anna Maykova 31/Jul/16 2nd
with Ian
Ian MK 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Anna
Mr Tickle 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1, a bit of a thrutch.

with Sally
Hidden 29/Jul/16 AltLd
david_mcnicol88 15/Jul/16 -
misterb 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with nancy
nickdonohue 01/Jul/16 Lead
with Cornish Dave
Hidden 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Henry Brett 17/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Tom McCabe 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Clare Petrie
8PetrieC 17/Jun/16 2nd
with Tom McCabe
Hidden 17/Jun/16 2nd
kyaizawa 17/Jun/16 Lead O/S
JRJones 12/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Suspect i went a little off route on the first pitch

with Melissa
Phil.Rudd 12/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/16 2nd O/S
OliverRoss 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Yates, David Jung
Hidden 09/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
jakenichol 23/May/16 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 13/Mar/16 2nd

Brutal first pitch, good work out.

with Ben, Mark Schramm
mark schramm 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

One camelot 5 was useful. 2 would be even better.

with Chris E
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Jmpollard 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, great climbing and some really awkward moves on the second pitch.

andrea83 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Very good route. Found P1 hard as between the chockstone and top of the pitch I would have liked some gear. A massive cam would have been useful. Really enjoyed it though.

with Hamish
Hamish777 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P1 was brutal, great lead by Andrea. P2 is good. Overall a brilliant route.

with Andrea
Hidden 04/Sep/15 Lead β
Sophie Nunn 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Sue
Fran Pontin ?/Sep/15 2nd β
garywong 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2

J.A.Thomson 25/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Dan
supersouthward 01/Aug/15 -

First pitch only, wild lay backing

with Selen Thyssen
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
jfms 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Slips on both pitches, but no fall. Rough but rounded Cornwall granite.

Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
jackappleby 18/Jul/15 2nd β

in one pitch, exposed

with Tomasz
dpalmer1961 15/Jul/15 Lead
pebbles 11/Jul/15 AltLd

martin p1 me p2

with martin, mette cristiansen
Matt77 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

I led both pitches. Enjoyable old school climbing with a beefy lay back opening followed by enjoyable jamming.

RyanOsborne 09/Jul/15 2nd
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/15 2nd
Digga ?/Jul/15 2nd dog

One rest on the chockstone to retrieve the thread

Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Wendy Watthews 18/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Seconded a few years ago but didn't remember the route, lead both pitches really fun

with joe c, cuc
Hazel Morgan 18/Jun/15 2nd

Wendy led.

JoeCoxson 18/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Wendy's excellent lead. Laybacked all the way up the first pitch, didn't need to wrestle with the chockstone at all. Second pitch may not have been the crux but had some good awkward moves.

Hidden 10/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Laurence Everitt 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 after "Laurence can you jam?" Haha

ian d f 25/May/15 2nd O/S
JakeB. 15/May/15 Lead

Excellent route, an all time favourite! Awkward offwidth to start with fun games slinging the chockstone, followed by an lovely, friendlier crack. (Possibly pulled on the sling round the chockstone at one point)

fulton333 15/May/15 2nd
with JakeB
Hidden ?/May/15 AltLd
clams ?/Apr/15 Lead

Finally got to use my Friend 5!

CatMc ?/Apr/15 2nd dog
with clams
manbat 25/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

I lead P2. Chris flew up P1.

with Chris Docherty
Hugobristol ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Lost my first piece of gear.

with Sascha
pearson9596 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Gympaul 31/Dec/14 -

Led on New Years Eve. No guide and thought it was demo route! Great fun tho....

Hidden 30/Sep/14 Lead O/S
KimberlyJarrad 30/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Only 1st Pitch

fulton333 20/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
cem 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1.

petegruf 03/Sep/14 AltLd
Paul423 26/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Rock face was slightly wet after rainy conditions. Had a slip on first pith and alternated for pitch 2.

HarryBowyer 23/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Louise Street
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead O/S
MaccMark 20/Jun/14 2nd
augustus trout 20/Jun/14 Lead
Lumbering Oaf 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

I'm not keen on lay-backing. Led P1 in a bit of a siege style. Chock stone is now deep in the crack and not reachable. Top out is a bit desperate. P2 excellent and a good crack climb in its lower reaches. Lots of gear. A climb with lots to offer ! 2 stars!

manbat 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Matt applied siege tactics and eventually conquered the brutal first pitch. The hard moves are at the top, after the last pro. He laid back before stepping his right foot into the crack. I bridged, and then stepped into the crack. Tough pitch. I lead pitch two, which starts with a jamming crack. Hard to get established. The climbing and position of the second half of P2 are incredible - I'd highly recommend!

Joris.Roulleau 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Leo, Scott Bradshaw
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd β
Hidden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Such a nice crack to lead, p2 was interesting too.

with Jonny Raines
Hidden ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Simon cook ??/2014 -
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead
kelliroberts3 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
gripped01 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Alex Tomczynski
whiteexplorer 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S

the first pitch was a straightforward layback ,its a good job i was well secured on the belay ledge for pitch two as the increasingly strong gusty wind blew me over,it didn't help the climbing on the exposed upper pitch either.

with joe
dready 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

note to self lay backing is easier than arm jamming

Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd
alice fuller ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with woj
Merrick796 25/May/13 Lead
stuieb123 19/May/13 2nd dnf

completed first pitch and retreated from second, was harder then expected. not properly discibed in the log book.

morganator 16/May/13 AltLd

Butch. Rescued a flying Dutchman who'd landed on his head subsequently

with International Meet Guest
Nick Wallis ?/May/13 AltLd
with BMC international meet
Ed morris 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with ewan
ewanthomson 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, Ed P2. Nice route

Hidden 04/Apr/13 Lead dnf
dprctr 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. P1 is tough!

with Patrick
msoldn 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

did in one long pitch. nice crack climbing all the way, start interesting but well protectable with 3.5 camalot and chock stone.

with Mari, Edwin
Mayo 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Philippa Arding 26/Aug/12 2nd
with nick arding
Spearos 20/Aug/12 2nd O/S

done in one pitch, belay ledge is not visible from top of climb!

with Riggo
Hidden 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/12 AltLd
aljezurusrf08 01/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Willow
tgeh 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

glad I had a big cam for the first pitch.

ushi 24/Jun/12 Lead
with Andy Marshall
mark88 04/Jun/12 AltLd
with Paul Millen
Dean177 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd dog
BelayBunney 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this climb. First pitch is strenuous (basically a long layback - the chock stone half way up is a crucial sling placement). Second pitch is beautifully exposed and the views are excellent! :)

arandall 12/May/12 Lead β

Backed off this back in febuary, its not too hard once you commit to the layback

Wendy Watthews 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Mr Powly 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Ian B
tobydunford 03/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
Pete Graham ?/Apr/12 Lead
with Rick Graham
Hidden 10/Mar/12 AltLd
arandall 12/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Quite similar to Goliaths Groove at Stanage, really awkward off width crack at the back of a corner.

wojt ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
andybenham 10/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Nice. Led p1. Felt 2nd pitch was 5a, not 4c as stated in the guidebook.

i_a_coops 07/Sep/11 Lead O/S
carl_123 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

first hvs lead. 1st pitch has no gear till the top once past the chockstone. second pitch found equally as hard as the first just with lots more gear around

Andy Mathers 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Julesthe1st 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/11 2nd
mishtu 13/Aug/11 2nd
with lewiz
lewiz 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Stunning climbing. One of the best routes of the year (so far...)

just one more 25/Jun/11 Lead
with Svenn G
BeccaSnowden 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch but couldn't do second as very very windy! Hard 5a

CRiddiford 21/Jun/11 2nd
with Becca
thomasadixon 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead dog
Pricey06 05/Jun/11 AltLd dog
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Clay C 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

H + C, nice route. a bit of a drag if done in one pitch though

mwatson ??/2011 -
david morse 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with chris todd
Hidden 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S
erinbastian 17/Sep/10 2nd
with Ken Mayo
Mayo 17/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Erin Bastian
El3ctroFuzz 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Pile of Dog poo. Not worth the movement. Not 2 stars at all.

with Elaine Budden
Elaine Budden 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/10 -
3 Names 06/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/10 2nd
DSM 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Paul Dearden
mtom91 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Sep/09 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 24/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
lrandall 20/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Alan D
keith leonard ??/2009 -
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Subwaycups ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Lead O/S
jfreeman ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Rigler
Ben Snook 24/May/07 AltLd
with n0ph33r
JackMountains 24/May/07 AltLd dnf

Wet and dirty.

Neil Adams 06/May/07 AltLd O/S

I led P1 but we'd soloed the crack after the optional belay ledge earlier so took the LH version (the start of the E5 I think) to a hanging belay under the roof.

with Tim from BUMC
Tom87 ?/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Jez
Ben Snook ??/2007 AltLd

i led the first pitch cleanly, we had to retreat off the second

with n0ph33r
drysori ??/2007 -
reg_measures 30/May/06 AltLd O/S
with timmy elson
maresia 29/Apr/06 2nd dog

Bloody horrible offwidth with an awkward exit on the first pitch.

beardy mike ??/2006 Lead
with Bill Naylor
Ashley Hold 03/Sep/04 Lead
with Laurence North
Hidden 24/Aug/03 Lead
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Matt Bradley
rockjedi12345 ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
stuart100 20/May/00 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
chris sm 09/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
lost.arrow 30/Mar/97 -
Neil Conway ?/Mar/97 2nd O/S
with Steve Hardy & Darren Leigh
davebrox ??/1995 -
K1 ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 07/Nov/87 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 26/May/81 AltLd

When it was VS. Felt gripped because one friend told me it was a chop route and another mentioned a friend who'd broken his pelvis falling off it.

with Steve Portnoi
tapley 02/Oct/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
babymoac 18/Aug/80 AltLd
with MTW
Hidden 19/Aug/77 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/77 Lead
Chris Terrey ?/Sep/76 Lead
with Pete Hevezi
Bolt Phobia 07/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with John Broadwell
Rob Davies 30/Mar/75 AltLd

Unprotected wide crack on P1 led by Pete. Niall tried this after us, fell off and fractured pelvis

with Pete McNulty (ICMC)
Hidden ??/1975 Lead
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set